9月 – 10月 2023

Buen Camino!

Walking the Camino Frances with my niece Morgan. もっと詳しく

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旅行の開始
2023年9月19日
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日1
2023年9月19日火曜日 10:07
☁️ 15 °C
海抜: 432 m
アメリカ Duluth International Airport 46.837472, -92.17865846°50’15” N 92°10’43” W
3
On my way!
2023年9月19日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Well, it’s official! I have passed through airport security and I’m waiting for my first flight! My peregrinations will take me from Duluth to Chicago, then Toronto, then Paris, where I will connect up with Morgan. I’m under way! Thank you Gene, for getting me here, and for your heroic willingness to house sit two dogs, two cats, and an unspecified number of chipmunks.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Let the journey begin!
2023/09/19返信する翻訳する
旅行者Wohoo! So excited for you!
2023/09/19返信する翻訳する
旅行者 What’s in the box?
2023/09/19返信する翻訳する
旅行者Walking poles!
2023/09/19返信する翻訳する
旅行者Cool! You’ll appreciate those!
2023/09/19返信する翻訳する
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8いいね
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日2
2023年9月20日水曜日 11:28
☁️ 19 °C
海抜: 118 m
フランス Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport 49.004056, 2.56512249°0’15” N 2°33’54” E
Made it to the train
2023年9月20日, フランス ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
So far so good! I had multiple delays but made all my connections. Morgan arrived ahead of me and did much scoping out the situation for us. Small hiccup right off the bat in Duluth; I had lost track of my Swiss Army knife, but the nice security man found it for me!🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️ Goodbye, Swiss Army knife, I hardly knew ye.

So! Now we take the train to Dax and connect there for the train to St Jean. So close!もっと詳しく
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2いいね
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日3
2023年9月21日木曜日 14:23
🌧 12 °C
海抜: 1,258 m
スペイン Roncesvalles 43.020772, -1.29981243°1’15” N 1°17’59” W
2
Roncesvalles
2023年9月21日, スペイン ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
We made it over the mountain pass, covering about 25 km between St Jean and here. We are in a giant converted monastery for the night, with something like 400 other pilgrims. Crazy! It rained today, which would have been fine, nice and cool, but Holy Crap, the wind! I swear it was trying to blow us off the mountain! Serious! Nevertheless, we prevailed, and not even a blister.

Check out the slug! Next to my very large shoe just for reference. And a picture of where we are staying tonight.

Tomorrows’s drama: will we find a place to stay ???もっと詳しく
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旅行者Good to hear you have begun the walk. Hope the slugs don't get any bigger.
2023/09/21返信する翻訳する
旅行者Seriously!
2023/09/22返信する翻訳する
旅行者Beautiful! The monastery, not so much the slug!! You are really doing this! So incredible!
2023/09/21返信する翻訳する
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日4
2023年9月22日金曜日 8:38
⛅ 9 °C
海抜: 933 m
スペイン Aurizberri 42.985905, -1.36315342°59’9” N 1°21’47” W
1
Zubiri
2023年9月22日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
After yesterday’s face off with mountain passes and homicidal-force winds, today’s walk to Zubiri seemed absolutely pastoral. It was cool, foggy early, and had only relatively mild ups and downs until a final steep, rocky descent into town. The only glitch at all was the looming question of whether or not there would be room at the inn. The albergues that could be booked in advance were all full, so the sole option, other than walking to the next town and hoping for the best, was the municipal albergue. These take no reservations and are first come first serve. Leading to some stress and the need to fight a certain competitive urge as one walks. I’ll cut to the chance: we got in! Easily too, if I must be honest. A great relief and it’s unlikely after today that we will need to really worry about finding a place again until close to the end.

Photos include a lovely view and a young donkey to back up the pastoral qualities of the day, and a slug, this one red and very color coordinated with me. Will slugs become a persistent theme of this travel blog? Hmmm.もっと詳しく
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旅行者So beautiful! Even the slug! I’m so glad your there having this awesome experience! And that there was room at the inn. Sending you and Morgan lots of love!
2023/09/22返信する翻訳する
旅行者Thanks Shmeeg! Love you too!❤️
2023/09/22返信する翻訳する
旅行者Good to hear you Re making progress.
2023/09/22返信する翻訳する
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日5
2023年9月23日土曜日 14:21
⛅ 18 °C
海抜: 457 m
スペイン Plaza del la Compania 42.818712, -1.64171342°49’7” N 1°38’30” W
Festival!
2023年9月23日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We arrived in Pamplona to find streets filled with people, families, all eating and drinking wine. Found out they are having their annual grape harvest festival. Varies by date depending on the actual grape harvest, go figure! Was fun to wander through it, a beautiful day!

Starting to establish a routine. Wake up, pack up, hit the road. Walk an hour or so till a good breakfast option appears and then eat. Walk more, take breaks as needed, snack, walk some more, arrive! Find albergue, feel relieved, check in, find bunk (my first top bunk is tonight), shower, do some laundry. Wander, eat, maybe enjoy a beverage with new friends, sleep, repeat.

I’m glad to be learning a routine. Looking forward to settling into it and getting a little more inwardly focused at some point. Loving the whole process.

Pictures of a stretch of path that reminded
me a lot of Ireland, the courtyard of our albergue, and my and others’ laundry drying in said courtyard.

No slug updates today!もっと詳しく
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旅行者Sounds great Allison! Looks like a rather large town. Love the arched path. A little disappointed that there was no slug update. Give my best to Morgan. You guys are doing great! Love you!!/
2023/09/23返信する翻訳する
旅行者I knew I was letting you down in the slug department! We saw a couple, but I’m holding out for a new color before they rate another mention.
2023/09/23返信する翻訳する
旅行者How cool to be there for a grape harvest.
2023/09/23返信する翻訳する
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日6
2023年9月24日日曜日 11:04
☀️ 15 °C
海抜: 749 m
スペイン Zariquiegui 42.735737, -1.74270542°44’9” N 1°44’34” W
Puente de la Reina
2023年9月24日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
What a day! So, what it feels like is that I am settling into a more solid rhythm, physically and socially. Today the climb, which looked kind of tough on paper, actually felt pretty good. The photo with the metal sculptures of pilgrims was at the top of the climb. The whole day was beautiful! Nice weather, beautiful scenery, some vineyards and (we think) almond trees.

And, we have hit the festival season hard! Big festival day yesterday in Pamplona and today is a big day here as well. Some of their narrow, beautiful medieval streets were blocked off for running of bulls. Also much eating, drinking and dancing in big circles, adults and kids together. It felt like a privilege to be here to take all this in.

Funny, today I had more quality alone time that felt meaningful, and also more social connection and great conversations. We talked politics in the US and Great Britain, and compared funeral practices in the US, GB and South Korea, for starters. Who knew? Just a really good day.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Wow! How incredible to see the festivals. I appreciated seeing the barrier between you and the bulls. How full your days are and how delightful and interesting it is to catch a glimpse through your eyes.
2023/09/24返信する翻訳する
旅行者I appreciate those barriers too, Aimee! And it’s been fun sharing at least a small slice of what I’m taking in here. I’m glad you’re following along!
2023/09/25返信する翻訳する
旅行者Sounds like you are enjoying yourself - so glad. What an adventure!!
2023/09/25返信する翻訳する
旅行者I am enjoying myself much of the time! Sometimes it gets hard of course, but that’s part of it. The whole experience is both demanding and very simple, which is so interesting! I’m very glad to be here.
2023/09/25返信する翻訳する
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日7
2023年9月25日月曜日 12:24
☀️ 24 °C
海抜: 422 m
スペイン Villatuerta 42.658613, -1.99018742°39’31” N 1°59’25” W
1 2
Estella
2023年9月25日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Today was not an especially tough day but it did get hot and the last few kilometers I trudged along pretty slowly. One of the photos is of a tunnel under a highway that gave welcome shade for a rest stop.
Celebrated finding beds in the municipal albergue, which has a much quieter vibe than the last couple did.
I was super pleased with myself when I used my phone to navigate to a grocery and ATM, and then found my way back without my phone. Whoo hoo! Visited a gorgeous church and cloister, which purports to house a relic of St. Andrew. The really ornate photo is of where it’s housed.
Get to sleep on a lower bunk tonight, such a treat!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Wow!! So beautiful and ornate!
2023/09/25返信する翻訳する
旅行者For sure! Saint’s relics are taken very seriously, and Apostles all the more.
2023/09/26返信する翻訳する
Humor along a pilgrimage trail? I wouldn't have guessed it. Is that a Knight Templar in the alcove? Honey is laying in the sunny spot, Beezus escapes at will, Ramona is hiding somewhere, and Sam is living it up at Blue Ribbon. [Gene]
2023/09/26返信する翻訳する
旅行者This sounds sort of tough. You are my hero. Glad you should get some good rest tonight.
2023/09/26返信する翻訳する
3いいね
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日9
2023年9月27日水曜日 7:27
⛅ 15 °C
海抜: 459 m
スペイン El Busto 42.564072, -2.22926742°33’51” N 2°13’45” W
2
Two stages!
2023年9月27日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
I forgot to post yesterday, so I’ll catch up here. Yesterday was a nice walk to Los Arcos for several reasons, despite the heat. One, a couple iconic stops early on; a blacksmith whose father and grandfather were also blacksmiths in that location. He makes small items for sale (photo below) and also larger items, like a gorgeous, dramatic, huge bull. Right after that stop was the famous wine fountain, offering both water and wine for free. A queen endowed this centuries ago, apparently and the government continues out via a local wine maker. Again, see photo!

Also yesterday was nice because I spent the day walking with Tom. We are both Catholic and had fun geeking out on history of the church, the issue of hell, and best of all, comparing conversion stories. So fascinating!! Made the day (a moderate 21 kilometers ) go more quickly. And just to head you off at the pass, friends and family, Tom is married, so don’t even go there:-)

Today was a longer day, about 28 kilometers, and we got an earlier start: 6:45. It was cool, dark and lovely. Today has a wonderful breeze too, which seemed to greet us at the top of each rise, like a reward for our efforts. I had more quiet time, and I was glad for it. It was a long walk though, and a nice thing that happens once in a while is that you come around a bend to find someone has set up a little food and rest station. An oasis! That happened today and I include a photo.

It has been surprising how quickly we connect with people as we walk, and then worry we will lose track when places for. We were both thrilled to see our friend Jun already settled in at the albergue we stopped at today. And again, after David and Olly thought they would stop at the previous town they just messaged that they are here - hooray! Our little world coalesced quickly! Now if we can track Rebecca down we’ll feel complete.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Love your descriptions and photos Allison! Keep on trucking and sharing your adventure.
2023/09/27返信する翻訳する
旅行者Thanks Dad, will do!
2023/09/27返信する翻訳する
旅行者So wonderful! That oasis had to be such a welcomed sight. Lovely that you are finding moments of quiet and also connection with others. Thank you for this way of sharing this adventure with you. I still really miss you but this helps!
2023/09/27返信する翻訳する
旅行者I miss you too, Shmeeg! I’m glad we can connect here too.
2023/09/27返信する翻訳する
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日10
2023年9月28日木曜日 11:28
☀️ 21 °C
海抜: 612 m
スペイン Ventosa 42.412003, -2.62643542°24’43” N 2°37’35” W
Rest stop
2023年9月28日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Just a mini note about how sweet it is partway through a day of walking to just stop for a while, take the shoes off, have a snack and just be. Right here there are some lovely wooden benches and gazebos alongside the way, and up on the hill yet another beautiful church. There’s sun, shade, a breeze, and all the time in the world.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Beautiful ❤️
2023/09/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者Truly awesome……hugs.
2023/09/28返信する翻訳する
旅行者Yes, all the time in the world.🙏🏼
2023/09/29返信する翻訳する
Lovely! [Lubna]
2023/09/29返信する翻訳する
6いいね
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日10
2023年9月28日木曜日 12:57
☀️ 24 °C
海抜: 563 m
スペイン Alesón 42.413483, -2.68617842°24’49” N 2°41’10” W
1
Nájera
2023年9月28日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
For a 28K day it was not bad! Started early, at 6:00 to maximize time spent walking in coolness, and that worked well on this hot, sunny day.. Saw LOTS of grapes. So many grapes! We visited a church with more gilding than I would have thought possible.

I met an enterprising momma cat and four kittens who sat along the camino and were well fed, including having some leftover chicken bocadilla from my pack.

I also had my first communal dinner made for us by the hospitaleros who run the albergue. It was wonderful! Good good, good conversation.

Tomorrow is an easy day, only 21 kilometers, so we’ll sleep a little later and enjoy a less demanding day.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 What was that all about?
2023/10/01返信する翻訳する
旅行者No idea! It May have been a bit of a military town.
2023/10/02返信する翻訳する
4いいね
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日11
2023年9月29日金曜日 12:03
☀️ 21 °C
海抜: 731 m
スペイン Ciriñuela 42.422024, -2.91742842°25’19” N 2°55’3” W
St Domingo de la Calzada
2023年9月29日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
What a great day! Kind of a triple header off a famous stop, a really nice albergue, and a really, really good meal.

It’s famous because of a story of a miracle involving a false accusation, a hanging, and the month long survival of the hanged man, culminating in the local official, when hearing of it, saying that the man was as alive as the chickens that were just them being served to him. At which point they both came to life. For centuries a pair of chickens has always lived in the local cathedral to commemorate the miracle, attributed to St. Domingo.

After two 28 Km days today was shorter, maybe 21? We got into town fairly early and discovered that our albergue was just extra nice, with footbaths to soak your feet in cold water and other amenities, like bags of olives, and beers in the vending machines. The self-serve laundry hand washing area was very nice too. Also the cathedral to explore, chickens and all, and a big clock tower with nine large bells.

I was in a celebratory mood and noticed a Michelin rated restaurant close to the cathedral. Morgan and I are with our friends David and Ollie. It was fabulous! A really fun night. We barely made it back too the albergue by the 10:00 PM curfew! Which is why yesterday’s adventure is only now being reported.もっと詳しく
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旅行者So glad you’re enjoying the serendipitous gifts and opportunities of the day! 🙌🏼
2023/10/01返信する翻訳する
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日12
2023年9月30日土曜日 8:01
🌙 14 °C
海抜: 663 m
スペイン Grañón 42.452187, -3.00736442°27’8” N 3°0’27” W
1
2 2 1
Santo Domingo to Belorado
2023年9月30日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
After all the fun and food yesterday we were slow to roll out and didn’t start walking until 7:00. Which meant an extra hour at the end walking along unshaded roads under a hot sun. But! The morning started so beautifully, with that giant full moon hanging in the sky ahead of us in the dark, and then a deep orange sunrise building behind us. The mornings have been magical!

After days walking through the Rioja Region we left it today - that’s what the tall marker in the photo indicates. No big change yet in scenery. The walk was not too eventful, just eventually very hot! It did take us through the birthplace of St. Domingo. And also it was fun to encounter a pharmaceutical vending machine, loaded with all sorts of things often needed by foot weary pilgrims.

Everyone on the path was buzzing about the albergue with the - gasp! - swimming pool!! Which is where I am now, and I will say, soaking my feet in that very cold pool felt very good. We also carbo-loaded at the pilgrim dinner, so I’m ready for a good walk tomorrow, hopefully with a 6:00 AM start.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Oh the spaghetti!
2023/10/01返信する翻訳する
旅行者 Looks like the Meseta—my favorite space on the Camino. So much promise at sunrise.
2023/10/01返信する翻訳する
Suggested path above, actual path of Allison and Morgan below? [Gene]
2023/10/02返信する翻訳する
旅行者We actually just climbed to the top of that sign, touched Santiago, and consider ourselves to be done.
2023/10/02返信する翻訳する
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日13
2023年10月1日日曜日 11:18
☀️ 25 °C
海抜: 1,152 m
スペイン Alba 42.366062, -3.36149742°21’58” N 3°21’41” W
6
Belorado to San Juan de Ortega
2023年10月1日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Another hot day! We did not leave as as early as intended; 6:45, but of course that was fine. Not a lot of elevation change today, and for some good stretches of the way a very pleasant change in the form of trees! We have been walking in very open agricultural land for…maybe a week? The shade and the company that trees always seem to provide were both very welcome.

Our albergue tonight is in a former church/monastery with its foundations laid in the 10th century (I think?) dinner for me was more modern - pizza and beer.

There was a good Mass here too, by which I mean that we were provided printed guides to help us follow along in six different languages, and the priest gave his homily in the most basic Spanish he could manage. I was able to follow quite a bit of it and I appreciated his efforts.

Tomorrow is a big day; we will arrive in Burgos, which is big town and the former capital of Spain, with a lot to see. It’s a common point at which to take a rest day and that is our plan. We have booked a small two bedroom place. It will seem SO luxurious!!

The arrival in Burgos also marks the completion of the first third of the Camino. The saying is that the first third is all about the body, the second addressed the mind and the third, your spirit. I May be a day ahead of schedule as my mind started acting up a bit today, giving me material to cheer on s as I worked my way toward this stop. Such a process!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 That’s a cool picture!
2023/10/02返信する翻訳する
旅行者Thanks! My friend Sue thinks it looks like the grim reaper:-) I can see that too.
2023/10/03返信する翻訳する
Future cover of the Pilgrim's Journal? [Gene]
2023/10/03返信する翻訳する
旅行者Great idea!
2023/10/03返信する翻訳する
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日14
2023年10月2日月曜日
☀️ 30 °C
海抜: 872 m
スペイン Río Vena 42.341915, -3.69853342°20’31” N 3°41’55” W
1
Burgos
2023年10月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
We walked into Burgos yesterday. Morgan and Olly led the way and successfully tracked down the elusive river route into the city as David and I followed along at a slower amble (David and Olly are a father and son pair who lined up well with Morgan and myself, age wise. We were pretty excited as the plan was to take today off. Rest day! Woo hoo!

We stayed in a nice little air BNB and each enjoyed the luxury of Our Own Room. Fabulous. Went out with a nice group for tapas and I was so hungry I forgot to take pictures, which really is a shame because they were numerous and very intricate and beautiful.

Also took a quick initial circuit around the cathedral. The fountain includes some carved figures that are…interesting. Tom tells me there was a train of passing very worldly images outside cathedrals at time, in contrast to the more virtuous interior images, so maybe that’s what’s going on?

Today it was just amazingly nice to sleep in, in luxurious privacy, and then make my leisurely way to a nice cafe for café con leche and a really good croissant. Visited the ENORMOUS cathedral, and also a very nice museum on human evolution. Ate well at lunch and supper and now actually feel eager to hit the trail again tomorrow morning. My feet barely ache at all…もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Beautiful!
2023/10/04返信する翻訳する
旅行者So glad you were able to rest in such a beautiful city! Happy refreshing!
2023/10/04返信する翻訳する
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日16
2023年10月4日水曜日 7:08
⛅ 12 °C
海抜: 867 m
スペイン Arco de Santa María 42.339675, -3.7033542°20’23” N 3°42’12” W
2
Leaving Burgos
2023年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
After resting and refueling in Burgos, we left refreshed and wound our way slowly out of the still dark city, leaving through a gorgeous arch by the partially lit up Cathedral. Food and coffee ended up being much more elusive at that hour than expected and we ended up walking for a good 12 or 14 kilometers before finding an open café. Ack! The walk was interesting though! We saw a processionary caterpillar! I had read warnings about them - apparently their bristles are extremely irritating to the skin and they are not to be touched. I also walked by an area just covered with snails, very odd. Along the way we passed a sign letting us know we had only 500Km to go, down from 800. Progress!もっと詳しく
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This photograph does make me wish I could be there. [Barbara]
2023/10/05返信する翻訳する
旅行者Isn’t it magical??
2023/10/06返信する翻訳する
旅行者Wow that is a beautiful place
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旅行者Burgos in the dark looks otherworldly. I love the picture of your shadow with the Perigrino image.
2023/10/07返信する翻訳する
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日16
2023年10月4日水曜日
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 851 m
スペイン Arroyo de Páramo 42.341277, -3.83591542°20’29” N 3°50’9” W
2
Entering the Meseta
2023年10月4日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
On the very edge of the meseta is a tiny, beautiful village. It has a lovely small chapel just as you leave town, and I’m so glad I decided to stop in.
Inside were two elderly nuns. One asked my name and gave me a very loving blessing and a miracle medal to wear as a necklace. And because I paused there my timing was perfect for meeting up with a shepherd leading his flock from one field to another with the help of two dogs. He was very friendly and put up with several of us taking photos and video. This is exactly where the landscape suddenly opened into the wide open beauty of the meseta. I felt, deeply, as if I had been very warmly welcomed into this new stage of the Camino, one I have very much been looking forward to.

Walking along in this beautiful, silent landscape, alone, this feeling only deepened. Then abruptly the land just fell away at my feet, dropping steeply and creating a stunning vista which I could not begin to capture on camera. As I dropped down the slope toward the waiting plain I can only say that I felt as if I were falling into the very lap of God. I can’t explain it, I can only report. It was a very happy day.もっと詳しく
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旅行者My heart is full for you Allison. This one made me cry. Thank you for words and pictures, even though they may not feel adequate to you. They are a gift for those if us watching and listening.....Love you.
2023/10/06返信する翻訳する
旅行者❤️
2023/10/06返信する翻訳する
Windmills, goats, the meseta of the mind, and that familiar laugh. No wonder that goatherd was obliging, with mysteries right there waiting for an open heart. I'm happy for you, Allison! [Gene]
2023/10/06返信する翻訳する
旅行者Thanks Gene!❤️ those are sheep though…
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日17
2023年10月5日木曜日 10:48
☀️ 17 °C
海抜: 812 m
スペイン Monasterio de San Antón 42.293112, -4.0986542°17’35” N 4°5’55” W
2 2
Castrojeriz
2023年10月5日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Today was an easy walk! Along the way we stopped at a gorgeous ruin of a Franciscan pilgrim hospital. There’s an albergue there, and someday I’d love to stay.
We rolled into town in the early afternoon, walking with our super excellent Camino friends David and Ollie and decided to stay at the albergue they had sussed out, Orion. Bibimbap for dinner made by the Korean co-owner - something different to look forward to! After perusing the town (again, such gorgeous, narrow streets!) and finding a much needed ATM we decided, because two of us are in our mid-20’s, that we should climb up the very steep, shade-free mountainside to visit the ruined castle. Yes it was almost 90 F at that point…But, it was a castle, and the view was great, so all good. Back in town we also discovered an ossuary, with a message for we the living which you can read if you look at the two scull and crossbones closely. Always good to contemplate our mortality. Really!もっと詳しく
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旅行者Looks like such an amazing trip! Love following this adventure. Continue to enjoy!! ♥️
2023/10/06返信する翻訳する
旅行者Thanks! So glad you’re following along!
2023/10/06返信する翻訳する
旅行者Absolutely beautiful walk! We never made it to the castle; everyone in our party was over 55 so we had wine instead.😊
2023/10/07返信する翻訳する
旅行者Marla, I say good call!
2023/10/07返信する翻訳する
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日18
2023年10月6日金曜日 5:54
🌙 12 °C
海抜: 808 m
スペイン Iglesia de San Juan 42.28978, -4.14298142°17’23” N 4°8’35” W
Villarmentera de Campos
2023年10月6日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
We decided after much consultation, especially between Morgan and Ollie, that we need to step up our game and make a little more headway. Which is how we came to walk about 34 Km (21 miles and a bit, 😬) today.
We left at 5:30 and walked the first couple of hours in the dark. And cold! Can I say, though, that our early mornings walking in moonlight that makes the gravel road glow all silver white as it stretches ahead of us, have been really magical. Except when row upon row of dead dwarf sunflowers manage to make it kind of creepy…
We started our walk today, after being pointed out of town by a giant yellow arrow projected onto a church, by climbing a quite steep hill for what seemed like a long time, and then coming down the shorter, but even steeper other side. We were glad to get that out of the way early! It was a very long walk, but we took liberal breaks as needed and got into tonight’s albergue by around 4:00. Not bad! And my first little blister, which appeared yesterday, is no worse after all that. Amazing!
Our albergue this time is quirky, with a teepee, statuary, two donkeys and a pair of very large geese. Slightly scary geese. Most important though, it has a bed for me, and I think I will sleep well tonight.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Nice! After a 21 mile day you deserve a good night rest. Praying that your little blister heals quickly! 🙏🏼
2023/10/07返信する翻訳する
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日19
2023年10月7日土曜日 14:11
☀️ 27 °C
海抜: 857 m
スペイン Bustillo del Páramo de Carrión 42.331268, -4.76296242°19’53” N 4°45’47” W
1
Calzadilla de la Cueza
2023年10月7日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
What can I say about today? God’s lap can get Really Warm! Today was simple, just about the walking. After two stops, a small village where coffee was had, and a large town where I happily loaded up on sandwich makings and dried fruit and nuts (ok, and also some pink and white marshmallows which for some reason I could not resist), it was time to launch into a 17 Km stretch with no villages or fountains whatsoever. One just walks. Morgan and I made lunch in a rare shaded rest stop and then - walked a lot more. It was great, lots of time to just reflect, but not much for photo ops. I took a pair of pictures below, one facing forward and the other looking back. Ha! Admittedly, the last eight kilometers were kind of grueling, but not in a miserable way.
The albergue we found beds in is great! Each is always so unique. This one has a pool, and nice shaded sitting areas. The owner is very sociable and also walked the Camino and felt very affected ny it. After the heat the pool, shade and beers were great. The paella purchased next door was spectacularly bad. The conversation more than made up for it though. Me being me, I had no idea what a huge part other people would play in my experience of the Camino. Another really good day!もっと詳しく
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The true meaning of black and tan only emerges in pairs:) [Gene]
2023/10/08返信する翻訳する
旅行者I am just amazed at your strength!
2023/10/08返信する翻訳する
旅行者Hi Kath! The thing is, day by day you can’t help but get stronger. That said, read on…
2023/10/09返信する翻訳する
旅行者I love how the little things are becoming the big things!
2023/10/10返信する翻訳する
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日20
2023年10月8日日曜日 8:59
⛅ 12 °C
海抜: 848 m
スペイン Terradillos de Templarios 42.362205, -4.90188342°21’44” N 4°54’7” W
2
Sahagún
2023年10月8日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
On paper, today was an easy day, only about 21 kilometers, but I was feeling it a little more. Still, a good day, and beautiful landscape. We are staying in an albergue run by the Marist Fathers, and we were greeted so warmly and have been so well cared for, including a Mass in English and Spanish offered by an Irish priest who also led a discussion for those who were interested in talking about our experience thus far. It was nice to have a chance to process!

On the way today we also passed through the official halfway point, two statues which, if you walk between them, are said to convey all the benefits of the full Camino in case you aren’t able to make it all the way to Santiago. A little insurance policy!もっと詳しく
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旅行者 Great picture. Looks like your special skirt is working great 👍?
2023/10/08返信する翻訳する
旅行者Hi Jenny! Yes, I am loving the skirt. It is so perfectly functional!
2023/10/09返信する翻訳する
旅行者Great pictures! I’m glad you found the hospitality of a mass and companionship to process with. It’s hard to believe it’s just the half way point.
2023/10/10返信する翻訳する
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日21
2023年10月9日月曜日 9:49
☀️ 14 °C
海抜: 842 m
スペイン Bercianos del Real Camino 42.388375, -5.14621442°23’18” N 5°8’46” W
2
THAT day
2023年10月9日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
So, it kind of had to happen eventually, right? Just one of those days. Started out with a nagging cough that had kicked in last night. Whacked my right thigh on a guard rail, hard, in the early morning dark. Picked up my second blister walking too fast, too long for the first 10 K en route to breakfast. Then had a pretty nice stretch, took good breaks, but then had to do the last 12 K of a fairly long, 30K day in the heat of the afternoon. Yesterday afternoon I think I described as grueling but not miserable. Today was both!

I know I had to look pretty bad because about two miles before I arrived a local man pushing his bike up the hill in the opposite direction stopped to give me worried looks, pointed to his watch and explained it was very late, pointed out that it’s hot as hell and then told me how sorry he was. I tried to reassure him I was fine, really! Oh my.

To cap it off our albergue today is the first one I have found just plain unpleasant . But! I’m showered, fed, electrolyte-ed and soon I will be sleeping. All really is well.もっと詳しく
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旅行者 This is the famous “Bar Elvis” renowned on the Camino for its Elvis memorabilia and the owner’s rather wild character. Alas, it seems to be closed now.
2023/10/09返信する翻訳する
旅行者Hope you feel better, Allison!
2023/10/09返信する翻訳する
旅行者Thanks Jay Jay! I don’t feel worse, at least, and I’m sure two nights of good rest in a real bed will do me a ton of good.
2023/10/10返信する翻訳する
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日22
2023年10月10日火曜日 15:35
☀️ 26 °C
海抜: 851 m
スペイン Plaza San Marcelo 42.5966, -5.5682242°35’48” N 5°34’6” W
Respite in Leon
2023年10月10日, スペイン ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
So, we made it to Leon today! It feels like just in time, limping to our air BnB, where we will spend today AND tomorrow before heading back into the fray on Thursday. I think I took exactly one photo as I walked today, of a distance marker showing our great progress. Only 329.5 kilometers left, it proclaims, and that was before we walked another maybe 25 Km today. We started with 800 ahead of us, so!
The walk into Leon, like maybe any city, was not especially scenic, so not much to share, visually.
We were happy to meet up with a fellow from Germany we hadn’t seen for days; this is such a fun part of this experience, connections that braid in and out as we all make different choices about how far to walk on any given day, while all still adhering to the same route. We greet one another as old friends!
The air BnB I found has exceeded our expectations, as in addition to the giant tub with jets it ALSO has a small sauna. This apartment may save my life…
Anyway, I know it’s absurd to be saying this but wow, this is an undertaking, and that’s not just the chest cold talking. I wish I had a clearer sense of what it all means at this point, but having jumped into this deep, fast-moving river, all I can really do is keep letting it carry me along. Starting again on Thursday.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Glad you are taking a day to rest! Sounds like you really needed it. Feel better!!
2023/10/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者Yes, it’s very well timed! Thanks!
2023/10/10返信する翻訳する
旅行者So glad your taking a break. Right when you need it most! Rest and feel better. Love you!
2023/10/10返信する翻訳する
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日23
2023年10月11日水曜日 10:43
⛅ 16 °C
海抜: 839 m
スペイン León, Iglesia de San Salvador de Palat del Rey 42.597069, -5.56776342°35’49” N 5°34’4” W
2
León
2023年10月11日, スペイン ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
So, a good rest day! Lots of sleep, a leisurely start to the day, and a stop at a pharmacy to get cold meds and compeed (which, if you are not in the know, is for blisters.) My first walk of the morning apparently was at the Hour of Beer Delivery (see photo). I explored the Cathedal and an adjacent diocesan museum. The Gothic stonework and the stained glass was mind bending, it really was.

It was nice watching so many local people circulate through the great space in front of the Cathedral and the surrounding streets of the old city in the evening. Many kids and many small dogs on leashes. All of us, milling about at our usual human scale in the shadow of those incredible flying buttresses, built of course by us humans, but clearly with such a different scale in mind.もっと詳しく
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旅行者What a beautiful city! Hope you are feeling a little better!!
2023/10/11返信する翻訳する
旅行者 A day in the life photo. Love it!
2023/10/12返信する翻訳する
旅行者I really like that one too. Such a seeming contrast between the old and new, but not really. Beer has probably been delivered here regularly for the past 1000 years.
2023/10/12返信する翻訳する
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日24
2023年10月12日木曜日 8:12
🌙 10 °C
海抜: 842 m
スペイン Plaza de San Marcos 42.601333, -5.5814342°36’5” N 5°34’53” W
San Martín del Camino
2023年10月12日, スペイン ⋅ 🌙 10 °C
Back on the road today. We had a choice of two variants, one of which was off the highway and more scenic, but also a much longer day, I’m mostly recovered but now it’s Morgan’s turn to feel puny, so we made the sensible choice and walked the shorter, uglier route. Plenty of scenery lies ahead, as we will be heading into woods and big climbs, day after tomorrow. It was a good choice for today, for us both.

Not much for photos though. As I wound my way out of Leòn, I passed one of the Paradors, of which there are several (Five? Seven?) along the Camino. These were huge hostels/hospitals for pilgrims back in the day and in recent years have been recreated as rather luxurious hotels, stayed at by almost no pilgrims. That is what the photo is.もっと詳しく
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旅行者Good choice. Praying you both are feeling better as you move into this new day. We treated ourselves to one night in the parador in Santiago. After being on the way for 40 days it felt wonderful but like we didn’t belong! 😂
2023/10/13返信する翻訳する
旅行者Marla I have thought about doing that very thing! Hmmm
2023/10/13返信する翻訳する
旅行者It was SO worth it! We ended up with a little view view of the cathedral. It felt surreal and luxurious after our previous accommodations!
2023/10/17返信する翻訳する
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日25
2023年10月13日金曜日 6:52
☁️ 13 °C
海抜: 869 m
スペイン San Martín del Camino 42.496067, -5.80631342°29’46” N 5°48’23” W
7 1
Astorga
2023年10月13日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Such a very nice albergue we arrived at today! Even if it had been a bad day, which it was not, ( well, speaking for myself. Morgan is under the weather and did not want to get up - see pic) this place would have made it all good. A warm welcome, a funky, appealing layout, and best of all a wood stove which has suffused the place with the cozy smell of wood smoke, which I love.

There was also a much nicer than usual oasis along the way, also with sort of a hippy vibe. Very nice!

Today was also cool and overcast, with occasional light rain: a welcome change! Also the landscape is changing and we had some nice climbs. It sounds weird, but too much flat walking is hard on the feet and legs.

Astorga is a pretty town with a Cathedral and a palace. I did not fit in a walk through the palace. Next time!

The time remaining is really getting short now! That said, my early panicky feelings that it’s all going too quickly sometimes morphs into thoughts of how nice it will be to be home. Just depends! We have a LOT of rain ahead. We’ll see how that affects my outlook. I may like it!もっと詳しく
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Climbing walls again, flatfooted? I wonder if PDDYWGON made it to the end? [Gene]
2023/10/14返信する翻訳する
旅行者I’ll bet PDDYWGON did make it. At this point I’m not betting against anyone…
2023/10/14返信する翻訳する
Love this photo! Made me want to live there. [Barbara]
2023/10/14返信する翻訳する
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