Buen Camino!

September - October 2023
Walking the Camino Frances with my niece Morgan. Read more
  • 36footprints
  • 3countries
  • 39days
  • 216photos
  • 9videos
  • 14.4kkilometers
  • 13.3kkilometers
  • Day 1

    On my way!

    September 19, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Well, it’s official! I have passed through airport security and I’m waiting for my first flight! My peregrinations will take me from Duluth to Chicago, then Toronto, then Paris, where I will connect up with Morgan. I’m under way! Thank you Gene, for getting me here, and for your heroic willingness to house sit two dogs, two cats, and an unspecified number of chipmunks.Read more

  • Day 2

    Made it to the train

    September 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    So far so good! I had multiple delays but made all my connections. Morgan arrived ahead of me and did much scoping out the situation for us. Small hiccup right off the bat in Duluth; I had lost track of my Swiss Army knife, but the nice security man found it for me!🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️🤦🏻‍♀️ Goodbye, Swiss Army knife, I hardly knew ye.

    So! Now we take the train to Dax and connect there for the train to St Jean. So close!
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  • Day 3

    Roncesvalles

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    We made it over the mountain pass, covering about 25 km between St Jean and here. We are in a giant converted monastery for the night, with something like 400 other pilgrims. Crazy! It rained today, which would have been fine, nice and cool, but Holy Crap, the wind! I swear it was trying to blow us off the mountain! Serious! Nevertheless, we prevailed, and not even a blister.

    Check out the slug! Next to my very large shoe just for reference. And a picture of where we are staying tonight.

    Tomorrows’s drama: will we find a place to stay ???
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  • Day 4

    Zubiri

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    After yesterday’s face off with mountain passes and homicidal-force winds, today’s walk to Zubiri seemed absolutely pastoral. It was cool, foggy early, and had only relatively mild ups and downs until a final steep, rocky descent into town. The only glitch at all was the looming question of whether or not there would be room at the inn. The albergues that could be booked in advance were all full, so the sole option, other than walking to the next town and hoping for the best, was the municipal albergue. These take no reservations and are first come first serve. Leading to some stress and the need to fight a certain competitive urge as one walks. I’ll cut to the chance: we got in! Easily too, if I must be honest. A great relief and it’s unlikely after today that we will need to really worry about finding a place again until close to the end.

    Photos include a lovely view and a young donkey to back up the pastoral qualities of the day, and a slug, this one red and very color coordinated with me. Will slugs become a persistent theme of this travel blog? Hmmm.
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  • Day 5

    Festival!

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    We arrived in Pamplona to find streets filled with people, families, all eating and drinking wine. Found out they are having their annual grape harvest festival. Varies by date depending on the actual grape harvest, go figure! Was fun to wander through it, a beautiful day!

    Starting to establish a routine. Wake up, pack up, hit the road. Walk an hour or so till a good breakfast option appears and then eat. Walk more, take breaks as needed, snack, walk some more, arrive! Find albergue, feel relieved, check in, find bunk (my first top bunk is tonight), shower, do some laundry. Wander, eat, maybe enjoy a beverage with new friends, sleep, repeat.

    I’m glad to be learning a routine. Looking forward to settling into it and getting a little more inwardly focused at some point. Loving the whole process.

    Pictures of a stretch of path that reminded
    me a lot of Ireland, the courtyard of our albergue, and my and others’ laundry drying in said courtyard.

    No slug updates today!
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  • Day 6

    Puente de la Reina

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    What a day! So, what it feels like is that I am settling into a more solid rhythm, physically and socially. Today the climb, which looked kind of tough on paper, actually felt pretty good. The photo with the metal sculptures of pilgrims was at the top of the climb. The whole day was beautiful! Nice weather, beautiful scenery, some vineyards and (we think) almond trees.

    And, we have hit the festival season hard! Big festival day yesterday in Pamplona and today is a big day here as well. Some of their narrow, beautiful medieval streets were blocked off for running of bulls. Also much eating, drinking and dancing in big circles, adults and kids together. It felt like a privilege to be here to take all this in.

    Funny, today I had more quality alone time that felt meaningful, and also more social connection and great conversations. We talked politics in the US and Great Britain, and compared funeral practices in the US, GB and South Korea, for starters. Who knew? Just a really good day.
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  • Day 7

    Estella

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today was not an especially tough day but it did get hot and the last few kilometers I trudged along pretty slowly. One of the photos is of a tunnel under a highway that gave welcome shade for a rest stop.
    Celebrated finding beds in the municipal albergue, which has a much quieter vibe than the last couple did.
    I was super pleased with myself when I used my phone to navigate to a grocery and ATM, and then found my way back without my phone. Whoo hoo! Visited a gorgeous church and cloister, which purports to house a relic of St. Andrew. The really ornate photo is of where it’s housed.
    Get to sleep on a lower bunk tonight, such a treat!
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  • Day 9

    Two stages!

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I forgot to post yesterday, so I’ll catch up here. Yesterday was a nice walk to Los Arcos for several reasons, despite the heat. One, a couple iconic stops early on; a blacksmith whose father and grandfather were also blacksmiths in that location. He makes small items for sale (photo below) and also larger items, like a gorgeous, dramatic, huge bull. Right after that stop was the famous wine fountain, offering both water and wine for free. A queen endowed this centuries ago, apparently and the government continues out via a local wine maker. Again, see photo!

    Also yesterday was nice because I spent the day walking with Tom. We are both Catholic and had fun geeking out on history of the church, the issue of hell, and best of all, comparing conversion stories. So fascinating!! Made the day (a moderate 21 kilometers ) go more quickly. And just to head you off at the pass, friends and family, Tom is married, so don’t even go there:-)

    Today was a longer day, about 28 kilometers, and we got an earlier start: 6:45. It was cool, dark and lovely. Today has a wonderful breeze too, which seemed to greet us at the top of each rise, like a reward for our efforts. I had more quiet time, and I was glad for it. It was a long walk though, and a nice thing that happens once in a while is that you come around a bend to find someone has set up a little food and rest station. An oasis! That happened today and I include a photo.

    It has been surprising how quickly we connect with people as we walk, and then worry we will lose track when places for. We were both thrilled to see our friend Jun already settled in at the albergue we stopped at today. And again, after David and Olly thought they would stop at the previous town they just messaged that they are here - hooray! Our little world coalesced quickly! Now if we can track Rebecca down we’ll feel complete.
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  • Day 10

    Rest stop

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Just a mini note about how sweet it is partway through a day of walking to just stop for a while, take the shoes off, have a snack and just be. Right here there are some lovely wooden benches and gazebos alongside the way, and up on the hill yet another beautiful church. There’s sun, shade, a breeze, and all the time in the world.Read more

  • Day 10

    Nájera

    September 28, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    For a 28K day it was not bad! Started early, at 6:00 to maximize time spent walking in coolness, and that worked well on this hot, sunny day.. Saw LOTS of grapes. So many grapes! We visited a church with more gilding than I would have thought possible.

    I met an enterprising momma cat and four kittens who sat along the camino and were well fed, including having some leftover chicken bocadilla from my pack.

    I also had my first communal dinner made for us by the hospitaleros who run the albergue. It was wonderful! Good good, good conversation.

    Tomorrow is an easy day, only 21 kilometers, so we’ll sleep a little later and enjoy a less demanding day.
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