Londonderry

“Once a year, go somewhere you’ve never been before.”– The Dalai Lama
Several new experiences today. The first was to travel to Heathrow using the brand new Elizabeth Line for most of the journey. Quick, clean, comfortable and quiet. Actually better than a minicab as you get the bonus of lugging suitcases up (in this case down) the long hill to Highgate station and the tube station steps. At Tottenham court road station, there were many steps to be climbed and this T-shirted body building type young man grabbed Ursula’s case (13.9kg) and whisked it up several flights of stairs. Lots of people at the airport, as we see nearly everywhere in London. Everything worked properly though a kind fellow traveller helped us with Step 2, sticking the bag tags to our luggage. “Do you get paid by BA?” She laughed.
Flight to Belfast is just over an hour. While collecting our hire car (a huge Hyundai i10 – Tony had thought a 20 was small), we had our first experience of the unique Northern Ireland accent. We have to listen very carefully. Now we have been let loose on the Irish countryside. Good road. “Should have looked up the speed limits.” We settled on 70 mph. Varied countryside. Very green.
We entered Londonderry (Derry from now on, much easier) and Google said “You have reached your destination” well before we expected it. Busy road, absolutely nowhere to stop. Fortunately it is Sunday. We found a loading zone around the corner. Not far to drag the luggage. Our apartment is behind and above a baker and Fitzroy’s, a bistro/restaurant. Only a single door entry. Google did very well to find it. We phoned our host about parking, but needed a follow-up text message to locate the street he suggested. Accent again.
Ursula has done very well with our location. About 40m away there is a bright new shopping centre with, fortunately, a M&S food hall. We just had time to obtain our essentials then were last out of the store which closed at 6. We are immediately outside the walls so very near the centre of this small town. The population is very similar to that of Launceston (Tasmania). That’s where the similarity ends. The town is jumping. Sunday evening. Streets thronging. Cheery people spilling outside the many pubs. Gotta love the Irish.
We decide to eat at the The Bentley. “Did you check it on the map?” No need. 20m, through the walls. There it is. Location. Location. Location. Inside the main (busy) pub the kitchen has closed so a friendly barman takes us outside and ushers us into a lift to The Bentley Steakhouse. Keen young staff. Wholesome food. Good choice.
Living in unfamiliar places has its drawbacks. Tony can’t get hot water from the shower. Ursula found the hot water system in a cupboard. It needed to be switched on.
From our living room Ursula spotted a big yellow sign. “Martin McCrossan award winning walking tours”. We joined the 10am tour and spent an enjoyable hour walking the walls and finding out about Derry’s troubled past. Complicated. The English are not the heroes.
We looked into the beautifully restored Guild Hall. Now recovered from being bombed in 1972. Massive organ, extensive beautiful stained glass windows, perfectly restored building right down to the pristine toilets. Next, the Visitor Centre proved very helpful. Along the waterfront is a full-sized Tescos. We topped up our shopping. Seemed to spend about the same number of pounds as we would spend dollars at home. Glad we aren’t here permanently.
Today is the final day of the Derry Jazz and Big Band festival (Guiness Jazz Trail). “We Love Sax” is on at the Embankment. 15 minute walk across the river. Very lively. We sat outside. Tony enjoyed his first Guinness. Surprising to us was the number of kids. See video.
Tuesday 7 May was forecast to be the best weather for the week. Coastal expedition on the agenda.Read more