Around Derry

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” – Mark Twain

We made an early start (for us). Drove NE along Lough Foyle past Ballykenny (beach views), Bellanena (cliff and beach views). Next stop was the town of Coleraine. The cute Culture Coffee Café provided an opportunity for alliteration, coffee and Portuguese custard tarts. Continuing and hugging the coast we drove through Portstewart and Portrush. Scenic views. Lots of temporary grandstands lining the route. What is it? North West 200. [https://www.northwest200.org/ ] Practice starts tomorrow.
We could see Dunluce Castle from the road. The first castle on the site dates from the 13th century. There have been extensive renovations but the castle is now mostly ruins. There was actually quite a busy small town here from the 1600s.

Now we are not far from the Giant’s Causeway which is the big ticket tourist item hereabouts. We had read that parking was a rip-off. Best deal looked to be at the Causeway Hotel where the £10 parking fee is credited to your lunch. The lunch was surprisingly nice. We walked the Blue Trail as the Red looked challenging. Lots of spectacular interlocking basalt columns. Most look hexagonal. Near the sea you can walk on the tops of the columns. At the end of the Blue Trail we could see another, the Red Trail, going further with another vantage point. “By the time you get up there you will be halfway to the top.” So we completed the Red Trail and returned along it, firstly up 150 uneven steps then along the top of the cliffs. Inland there were lots of huge sheep with youngish lambs. Large number of tourists huffing and puffing their way along the trails and up and down the steps. There is a defibrillator at the top of the steps.

Once back to the car we visited the quaint little harbour of Ballintoy. The inviting-looking café brought forth the desire for ice-creams but we were unable to rouse any service. Unfortunately the desire persisted to the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge where we ate huge expensive soft serve ice creams. About twice the quantity we really wanted. Another mile or so to the bridge. We have done plenty of walking today (5-6 miles).
We drove home along slightly faster roads through Bushmills (we didn’t stop) and back to Derry. Found the Sainsbury store – huge. More essential shopping. Dinner at home tonight as there wasn’t a lot of room after the ice-creams.

Next day we started with a closer look at Bogside which we had viewed from the top of the walls on the walking tour. The tenement housing has been replaced by upgraded accommodation and some green space. Bogside was a downtrodden catholic neighbourhood which experienced “the troubles” in the 70s. Lots of big murals and thought-provoking plaques depict the events of those times.

In the afternoon we did a country drive through the Sperrin Mountains as far as Kilrea on the River Bann. Interesting 18th century stone bridge and peaceful river walk. Home firstly along the river to Portglenone. Then a scenic route via Maghera, Cookstown and Gortin. This was a beautiful drive with lovely farmland together with much wilder country and some very narrow “Hail Mary” roads. Also some quaint small villages.

Typically we reached home quite a bit later than planned. Were planning to eat at Peadar O’Donnell’s pub. Last year it was named as the best pub in the county. No food, so we made do with Guinness and white wine. Feeling hungry we found that not all pubs in Derry serve food after 8:30 pm. Try none. We were directed to the restaurant, Fitzroy’s, which is under our apartment. Nice convenient meal and a unique feature was being able to connect to our apartment’s wifi from our table.

Thursday 9 May is our final day to enjoy Derry. Relaxation is the key. We started with a long walk along the waterfront and back through town. Tony had noticed Rosta, a new clean and bright independent café on the street into town. They serve Hopong Long Hay Natural coffee imported from Myanmar. A young local guy gave us his window spot and stayed for a chat. Lovely coffee. The Flat White coffee has spread. Even in country Ireland they provide a lovely creamy microfoam, with none of the airy froth you get with a typical cappuccino.
In the afternoon Tony looked through the Tower Museum while Ursula did some light shopping. The museum had been recommended by yet another friendly, cheerful and helpful Derry local. “I went to Australia supporting a Lions tour. Best time of my life.” There were lots of memorabilia from the wreck of a ship from the Spanish Armada, La Trinidad Valencera, which was wrecked off Derry in 1588 after being blown around Britain. The wreck was discovered in 1971. 500 men managed to struggle ashore. They were confronted by a force of English cavalry. Instead of a battle, they were offered safe conduct provided they surrendered. They did. The officers were separated out for ransom. The others were attacked with muskets and pikes. 300 of the remaining Spanish were massacred while the remainder managed to escape. On a brighter note there were exhibitions about Derry Girls and the Story of Derry.
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