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Helsinki & the Baltics
  • Tom Fulham
  • Marcia Fulham
  • Tom Fulham
  • Marcia Fulham

Helsinki & the Baltics

A 18-day adventure by Tom & Marcia Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 6, 2025
    Helsinki & the Baltics
    1Enjoying some nice wine
    2I happened to wake up just at the sun was peeking over the horizon. I thought it was beautiful.

    London

    July 7 in England ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a delightful start at Vino Volo at Dulles, take-off was delayed about 30 minutes. No worries, said the Brit Air pilot, we’ll make up time in the air. We had 2 hours to get from Terminal 5 at Heathrow to Terminal 3 to catch a Finnair flight to Helsinki so we weren’t too concerned.

    Not so fast. We not only didn’t make up time, a storm around London actually added to the delay in landing. Then there was no aircraft parking space available so we sat just off the runway for a little over an hour before we could deplane outside to buses. All this resulted in missing our Helsinki flight by 10 minutes. To their credit, Brit Air immediately took responsibility and gave us vouchers for hotel and food. While I’d rather be in Helsinki, we’re making the best of our “stopover.”    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics

    More London

    July 7 in England ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    On the same street at the same time we're folks in t-shirts and shorts, and those in puffers.
    After a pre-prandial walk we had supper at our hotel. Aeal that promoted all the glories of high school cafeteria cuisine.Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Brekkie at Heathrow -- a hat the Brits call smashed avocado, with poached egg and smoked salmon. De
    1Fabulous roast pork pieces with pomegranate sauce, salad, and potatoes. Armenia is high on our tra!

    First impressions of Helsinki

    July 8 in England ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    From the minute we got entered the airport, Finland struck us as clean, efficient, and very modern. These initial reactions got even more positive upon arrival and n Helsinki. We he city is a charming mix of imposing architecture from the late 1800s ( large department stores, residential buildings, and hotels), art deco from the early 20th century (primarily office buildings), and modern glass skyscrapers (post full independence in 1994).

    Each architectural segment represents the major eras of Finnish history — ownership by Sweden (1617-1808), conquest by Czarist Russia (1808) as the semi autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland, independence following WWI, close relationship with USSR following WWII, and post becoming a member of the EU in 1994. The Finns were never comfortable with the country’s relationship with Russia, and are thriving in the era of independence.

    Tom has photos of many buildings, but I guess those will be uploaded tomorrow.
    .    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Avocado Toast with Poached Eggs & Smoked Salmon @ Giraffe
    1The one on the left is the GiraffeNothing says famous historical figure like a seagull on your head2Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral2Stuffed Grape Leaves with Yogurt SauceCabbage stuffed with lentils, chickpeas, bulgur, red beans & buckwheat.2

    Helsinki, Finally!

    July 8 in Finland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    It seems something short of forever but we have, at last, made it to Suomi (that's Finnish for Finland).
    To make our 0730 flight we were taking no chances. 0445 reveille, no bfast, and the "Hotel Hoppa" bus back to LHR. After security, we had a meal (courtesy of BA) at the Giraffe Risto (recommended by one of the purple-shirted Heathrow Helpers.
    Our flight was smooth and FinnAir brought us in to HEL :without further eloquence".
    My first impression of Finland from the air was that it looked like an Ireland with fir trees: overcast, rainy and very, very green. The train from HEL was clean & quiet; just 22 mins to downtown.
    We spent our day with an abbreviated tour sked: Market Square, Uspenski Cathedral, Old Market and Helsinki Cathedral.
    Supper was at the excellent Armenia House around the corner. We split the Tolma starter, then I had Pasuc Tolma and M had Khozi Khorovac. Both accompanied by lovely Armenian red wines. For dessert we stopped at the local K Market and a bar of Fazer chocolate which is made in Finland.
    We'll get more done tomorrow.
    T    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    3On a street since 1640. Signs are in Finnish, Swedish, and Russian
    Uneven stones from Swedish times; smooth stones from Russian times.1Central train station designed by Eliel Saarinen, father of the architect of Dulles AirportKampiiChapel of silenceTom with arms outstretched on the roof of the Amos Rex art museumVery cool city library that Kevin told us about.1National Music HallChurch in the Rock -- inside a previous quarryStarter of whitefish topped with birch mayonnaise, semi dried tomatoes, jalapeño, and wild flowersSautéed reindeer with lingonberries and mashed potatoes

    Helsinki architecture at its finest

    July 9 in Finland ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    I had researched Finnish architecture in Helsinki and we saw some very unique examples today. The Stockman department store started as an Art Nouveau residential building. Elial Saarinen did a great job of renovating the neoclassical theater in 1935, and the 1880s National Library of Finland and the Eliel Saarinen central train station were thankfully left intact.

    We then moved on to the really innovative designs done in recent times: the Amos Rex art museum, Kamppi Chapel of Silence, the University of Helsinki Library, the national music hall, the Helsinki City Library, and the Church in the Rock. All were spectacular.

    After 16,000+ steps and napping for an hour, we had a delightful dining experience at Restaurant Kulta. Bills itself as Finnish food presented in an elevated style. We had a whitefish starter and reindeer for a main course. Both delicious! But don’t tell the children. I don’t way them to think we might have eaten Rudolf!    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Marcia and the Moomins
    The ceiling (inside) of the Uni Library1The Uni Library staircase looking down 8 floors3-D bunny being createdThe Bunny creatorsThe amuse at Kulta: farm cheese with a layer of cold pea soup and rye crunchies1Reindeer sirloin, rolled flank strip, Lapland potato with oyster mushrooms and asparagusInterior of the Central StationFinally: if you always wanted to own a Caddy, VW appears to make one!

    Beautiful Day, Beautiful Architecture

    July 9 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today may have been the apex of summer weather in Helsinki. Sunny, light breezes, and almost warm. A grand day to be out and about with passengers of the two cruise ships in town (sigh).
    As Marcia noted, we tried to see it all but settled for what we got.
    Stockmann's was having a Moomin fest IHO their 80th anniversary. That was fun.
    Getting around was slightly challenging as all the streets have both a Swedish and Finish name: sometimes both are displayed, and sometimes only one most places do not display a street number.
    After the Univ of Helsinki Library we cut through a lovely park with great kids stuff to the Central Train station (a real step back in time) and the on to the Helsinki Library. Both of these libraries were were of simple and elegant design. It is exciting to see what architects can really do if allowed.
    As Kevin S. suggested, the inside of the latter was far out. Rooms to play video games or design them, an area to write music or play it. They even had books to read!
    We were enthralled by 12 & 10 y.o. sisters who were printing a bunny in a 3-D printer. Fantastic.
    The Rock Church, like the Kamppi, was basically a sterile enclosed space. Neither elevated the mind or spirit (IMHO). But all in all, it was a great town to just look out & up!    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Interestingly, the church in the fort was surrounded by an anchor chain interspersed with cannon.
    This cannon seemed huge to us -- 11 inch barrel openings.Enjoying a glass at a sidewalk cafe along the Esplanade.1Warm smoked salmon and asparagus pie with oat crust, herb and tomato salad.Roasted arctic charPerch with rye crust, root vegetables, and tartar sauce.4Topped offer supper with 3 farm cheeses, cloudberry jam, and a glass of cloudberry cordial.

    A good Thursday in Helsinki

    July 10 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We feel very comfortable in Helsinki now. The streets, shops, and restaurants are familiar now.

    We had an excellent supper Restaurant Savotta, on the recommendation of Steve Casad, who traveled here a year or so ago with Phyllis. It’s decorated in the style of a logging camp. Dishes are traditional fare cooked very flavorfully. We thought the meal was terrific.Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    2The Swedish Lion atop the cannon & anchor chain fence around the garrison church
    The tomb of Ehrensvard, the builder of the fortress.1The Queen preparing to enter the King's Gate.The former Officer's Club, now an event venue.2The etched glass for Karhu ("Bear") lager, Finnish and quite nice.The vocal group "Calla", NFI, entertained the crowd on the Esplanade2And, lastly

    Suomenlinna

    July 10 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    This morning we caught the ferry at Kauppatori for the 20 min. ride to Suomenlinna. Once a fortified island, the 18th C ramparts, bastions and ravelin are now a World Heritage Site.
    Originally built by the Swedes, it was ceded to the Russians in 1809 after the 4th round of the Swedish-Russian wars (1720s, 1740s, 1780s and 1800s) and being reclaimed by Finland in 1918.
    The island took a pasting at the hands of the British & French during the Crimean War (1855), and several of the military structures were reduced to rubble. The remaining buildings have been restored and a year-round population of 800 resides in the former support structures.
    We spent three hours on the island and that was adequate.
    Returning to the mainland we perused the daily open-air market and eateries by the piers, stopping at a Sicilian risto on the Esplanade for a glass of Karhu Lager before trekking home.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Louis Vuitton shop window with motor scooter made of suitcases.
    1Little potties in the hotel lobby restroom.

    Finnish Design Day

    July 11 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We’ve enjoyed window shopping the intriguing designs of Finnish home goods and today finally entered the stores. Prices are eye watering but the products are delightful. We took in the noon organ concert at the Lutheran cathedral and spent some time afterwards with the church warden asking about the painting over the altar and the layout of the sanctuary. He was a nice young man who was stumped by some of Tom’s questions and decided he needs to learn more himself.

    We spent the afternoon at the Museum of Architecture and Design. The exhibits took us decade by decade through social, economic, cultural, and architectural changes in n the country. It was just what we had hoped. It appears that the Finns have determined that they want a central city that is a mix of office, commercial, and residential, sometimes in the same building and other places in the same block.

    Supper was at a Nepalese restaurant — shrimp salad with tomato and cucumber, delicious dishes of chicken with cashews, and curried prawns, chicken in coriander sauce, and lamb, chicken, and prawns in spinach cream sauce. They also had the best naan bread I’ve ever eaten.

    We need to get up relatively early tomorrow to catch the ferry to Talinn, Estonia and further adventures.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Cathedral Organ Concert
    Finnish Navy Band2The Scorpion Tree Harvester1Princess Leia's NecklaceJackie's Marimekko Dress2Biker's Neck Airbag1Lastly, Pine Tree Woman and Popsicle Man

    Designing Women (& Men)

    July 11 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We started at Arabia China where they had a 60% off sale, so I bought a coffee mug. Can one have too many? We may be close to mug saturation point. But still...
    The Iittala Glass store was interesting but seemed clunkier than I remembered. Marimekko, always fun, but currently the colors are orange and brown, so we gave it the go-by.
    The Cathedral organ concert was five short works in 25 mins; still quite nice. After our grilling of the Warden, we stepped out and could still hear music! Only this time it was the Finnish Navy Band down in Senate Square. Perfect for a Friday.
    We did spend several hours in the Design museums and they were well worth it. Where else would you have exhibits on Nokia, Angry Birds, the PONNSE Scorion, Jackie Kennedy's Marimekko dress, Fiskars, Princess Leia's Necklace, and a neck airbag for bikers?    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    A pop-up bar?
    Popped-up!1Tallinn's Varu GateTallinn City HallPeople in costume 1People in costume 2People in costume 3People in costume 4Lastly, a bread plate with butter plate attached. What will they think of next?

    In Tallinn

    July 12 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Took the Tallink ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn. Both cities had ultramodern terminals and huge crowds ready to board. Nor did the pax waste any time. The gates opened and they surged forth to board. We got u/w 15 min before scheduled departure. These are serious travelers.
    Nice ferry, smooth journey.
    Followed the crowd our of the Tallinn terminal and the walked the 1 km+ to our hotel. Although we were well ahead of check-in, the room was ready and after freshening up, we toured Old Town.
    Really fun. This weekend is some sort of medieval heritage festival with the usual fol-de-rol that goes with it. We bypassed most of the frivolity and took in a few of the castles, city walls, old churches and the like.
    Supper was a group grope with our companions for the next two weeks. We seem to be about average age and they appear to be PLUs.
    More tours tomorrow.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Waiting for the ferry to Tallinn, a little reluctant to leave Finland
    Our ferry -- very sleek, modern, and comfortable.

    Impressions from Helsinki

    July 12 in Finland ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    While I’m on the ferry to Tallinn, I thought I’d record a few thoughts about Finland. Though the country was in independent but under significant Russian sway from 1917 -1992, the Finns are open, self confident and proud, in contrast to the Poles who still seem dour and suspicious of strangers. Finns are forward looking and feel their future lies in technology and innovation. They chatted readily and were interested in where we were from and pleased to hear we had very positive impressions of their country. Again, this is so unlike the Poles, who would speak only if spoken to, and with the briefest of answers.

    Finns jaywalk. They wear bright colors, and some have a sense of fashion. They’re focused on ecology and are concerned about the future of the planet. There are few smokestack industries. Regrettably, a significant number smoke and many have become victims of the American style diet.

    They don’t seem overtly religious and don’t feel a need to marry ev n when they choose to have children. Many expressed concern regarding high prices. Young people said they couldn’t afford to go out with friends. Tax is 14% for food and 25.5% for alcohol, which adds a lot to restaurant and bar bills.

    Finns seem very social. On Thursday late afternoon/early evening we saw groups of people in office attire at outdoor restaurants and on park lawns with a bottle, part of their concept called “after work.”
    Somewhat similar to our Friday night happy hours

    Bathrooms are available everywhere and always very clean. I really liked that!

    One sentiment they share with the Poles is a dislike and distrust of the Russians. They have faith in NATO and eager to participate in their own security.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Tom in front of the city walls dating to the 1300s.
    1Medieval dancing

    A few more initial impressions of Tallin

    July 12 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    I had no idea what to expect in Tallinn, but the historic center is quite charming. They have preserved most of the old houses and churches, some from as far back as the 1300s. Lots of narrow winding streets. Most churches have been put to other uses, like museums. There was quite a festive feeling downtown, no doubt due to the annual medieval celebration.Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Kadriorg Palace
    Estonian Parliament buildingGardens surrounding the PalaceTom and Peter the Great, who founded the Russian Navy1One of the rooms in Kadriorg Palace.Port of Tallinn with an inbound ferry over Tom's shoulderAlexander Nevsky Cathedral -- ornate to the nth degree.

    Tallinn palaces and churches

    July 13 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The morning began with a visit to the Baroque Kadriorg Palace, built by Peter the Great of Russia in the early 18th c for his wife Catherine. Peter ruled Russia from 1682 - 1725 and acquired Estonia by defeating the Swedes in the Great Northern War in 1721. After Peter died, it took 100 years to complete the palace. It’s surrounded by a beautiful garden and a large park.

    After lunch, we saw more of the historic center of Tallinn, a Hanseatic city founded in 1154. The Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral was spectacular, though Estonians don’t go there because it’s Russian. There is genuine loathing for anyone or anything Russian.

    We ended with an organ concert at the former St Nicholas Church. The gothic church was a magnificent setting for the organ music. Tom and I stayed on to watch a new group practicing. In addition to the organ, they included a bassoon, a cello, an oboe, a base violin, a violin and 3 vocalists whose voices were befitting the setting.

    We encountered a set of darling 19 year old German twin boys there who were seeing Scandinavia, the Baltics and Poland as part of their gap year. We traded lots of information on those areas and on being multiples.

    We learned that Estonia is not religious in the traditional manner. They are animists and revere nature. The Swedes imposed the Lutheran religion and Russians the orthodox religion but only 25% of Estonians practice either of those religions.

    We learned a lot. It was a very satisfying day!    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Journey to Noah's Ark
    Russalka MemorialMarcia and Tall Hermann3Tallinn Town Hall Gargoyle1Herman and Nevsky from St Nicholas's steepleOrgan concert at St Nicholas1Hortus Musicus warming up1Lastly, the WCs at our lunch risto require a code to enter (897#). It is to keep out the inebriated.

    Tallinn P & Cs

    July 13 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The Nordic Hotel Forum has a great location, just a block from the Varu Gaye into the Old Town. They also provide a fine bfast; tomorrow I'll try the herring and black bread -- our Estonian guide said it is traditional.
    The day kicked off with a 1 hour/50 slide lecture on all things Eesti. Our Tour Leader said that we should ask plenty of questions to encourage information transfer. This was a huge mistake. All 21 of us had questions and we were not shy about asking. The poor lecturer got through ~20 of her slides in 80 minutes and only because we had to leave did she get a break.
    I don't think they'll do that again.
    Inside the Kadriorg is a permanent exhibit from the Art Museum of Estonia, mostly oils & ceramics from the past 400 years, including some from Peter 1st era. My fave was "Journey to Noah's Ark", which included penguins, camels, a unicorn and a rhino with a horn on his back.
    Leaving the gardens we walked by the memorial to the 1893 sinking of the ironclad "Russalka" which went down off Tallinn with all hands.
    The exterior of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is cool, the interior just another icon-heavy church. It felt creepy to be inside the heart of the enemy.
    We were introduced (by way of a fairy tale) to Tall Hermann (where the national ensign is raised every morning) and Fat Margaret, two stone towers that flank the parliament building.
    These are all in "Upper" old town; we then wended our way to "Lower" old town observing key sites on the way, including the town hall, which has been in operation since the 1200s.
    The visit to St Nicholas Church was neat with the 30-min organ concert and the warm-up of Hortus Musicus, a terrific group that has been playing together for 50 years. Made my day.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    1
    32Audience Participation!Marcia's partnerThe Dome Church with the escutcheon of the deceasedLastly, the ancient toilet in the Guild Hall

    Tallinn -- 3 Museums

    July 14 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Happy Bastille Day! Not surprisingly, it is not celebrated here in Tallinn.
    We started the day bussing west of the city to Rocca al Mare and the Estonian Open Air Museum, a cross between Sutter's Fort and Old Sturbridge Village.
    The museum got its start in the 1950s during the Soviet era as various village structures around the country were threatened with demolition, they were disassembled and brought here; reassembled and curated, including live villagers in period costumes performing period tasks: carding wool, tatting lace, and the like. Very informative.
    The visit was topped off with a mid-1850s folkloric dance performance (with audience participation) and a simple family-lunch in the tavern/inn.
    Back in town, we briefly visited the Dome Church (the Lutheran Cathedral) and walked down to the Estonian History Museum, which resides in the Great Guild Hall.
    At one time, the GGH was the largest building in Tallinn and was the HQ of the Hanseatic Merchants. The was another junior version of the merchant's guild, the Black Heads, so named as their members still had black (not gray) hair.
    The Hanseatic League was a forerunner of the EEC and accelerated "free trade" in the Baltic (mostly) between the merchants in the member cities.
    Their heyday was the 13th-15th C, and only lost preeminence when ships could sail around Good Hope and to the New World.
    We wrapped up the day with a visit to the Museum of Occupation, which covered the period 1940 to 2000, and revealed just how gruesome life under the Nazis and Soviets really was.
    At the last part of the museum, they discussed the difficulty a restarting a nation with democracy and a market economy -- something that had been unknown for fifty years.
    Tomorrow: on to Riga.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    1A building growing in a tree?
    1These young dancers were darlingMarried women wear hats/white stockings; unmarried-- ribbos/white stockings1All the parks have beautiful flowers.

    A gew more photos of Tallinn

    July 14 in Estonia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    There are only about 1.2 million people in Estonia. The Soviets killed or deported about 20%. The museum pointed out how difficult it is to convert an economy and a culture from communism to liberal democracy. Estonia has done it very well in only 30 years. Despite some differences, they all pulled together because no one wanted to go back to what they experienced during Soviet times. Every family bears psychological scars because of their relatives who died or were sent to Siberia. They all readily talk about it because they don’t want to forget.Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    In the boardroom of the Soviet bunker
    Dining room of the Soviet bunker, complete with oilcloth and plastic flowers

    Enroute from Tallinn to Riga

    July 15 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The route from Tallinn to Riga was varied and interesting. We went along the Baltic coastline and stopped in Parnu, the summer capital of Estonia, with summer cottages that the tour guide referred to as dachas.

    Following lunch in a log cabin, we toured Turaida Castle, begun in 1214 for the German Bishop of Riga, and completed in the 1600s. It’s currently an intensively investigated archeological site.

    Probably most meaningful for us was a visit to the Soviet underground bunker that was built to house 250 senior members of the Latvian communist party and their families in the event of nuclear war. It was declassified in 2003 and left untouched. Soviet communications equipment, maps, ventilation equipment, and even the kitchen and dining room are just as they were when the Soviets left. They had convinced the Latvians that the West, and particularly the US, were to be greatly feared.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    Genuine Baltic Sea shells
    2Marcia at seaA stork. They're everywhere and almost the national birdThe Rose of TuraidaMarcia at the main tower (before the deluge)The ChapelOskar and an exhortation banner2A Soviet propaganda poster

    Leave Estonia, Enter Latvia]p

    July 15 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our 7-hour bus trip, broken by several stops took us through mostly mixed forest (both countries are abt 50% trees). Apparently, one has to venture to the south to find grain fields.
    When it is sunny, by some kind of national consensus, most folks call in sick & head to the beach. Today was not one of those days -- Parnu was deserted save one girl in a bathing suit.
    From Parnu to Turaida Castle it sprinkled a bit, just enough to justify wipers. At Turaida, umbrellas were suggested as a precaution; after some discussion we elected to carry ours.
    Annika, our guide, started with the tragic love story of Maija Weil who fell in love with a local boy but was murdered by a Polish soldier when she refused his marriage proposal. Maija, the Rose of Turaida, died at 19 ans buried next to the chapel. Couples still come to her grave on their wedding day to pay her homage.
    The chapel is centuries old but was boarded up by the Soviets in 1960. Although it fell into horrible disrepair, it was rehabilitated and reconnected in the 1990s.
    As we left Maija's grave there was a huge roll of thunder. Annika says it doesn't usually rain this time of day/year. But more thunder and a 5-minute downpour as we sheltered in the chapel.
    We continued our tour of the castle and as we left the big tower, the skies opened and it really came down for at least the next 40 minutes. Our group had no choice but to return to the bus. Even with umbrellas, we were all pretty soaked.
    The Bunker was great fun and Oskar, our guide, stayed in character as a man from the early 1980s and selected several of the group to assist in role-playing.
    We got to Riga after 7 pm, had supper and a quick spin around the block and called it a day.    Read more

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    1
    3111

    Art Nouveau i Riga

    July 16 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a lecture on Latvian economics, politics, and demographics, we set off on a walk through the Art Nouveau District. Art Nouveau was popular between 1890 and 1910. Following the Latvian Ethnographic Exhibition in 1896 and the Industrial and Handicrafts Exhibition in 1901, Art Nouveau became the dominant style in Riga and accounts for 1/3 of all the buildings in the center, making it the city with the highest concentration of such buildings anywhere in the world. The quantity and quality of Art Nouveau architecture was among the criteria for naming Riga in UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Tonight on the way to dinner, our guide wanted to test our knowledge and asked how we knew that the building next to us was Art Nouveau. A very funny woman with a thick Texan accent said, “Well, it has all that crap on the front.” I think the guide decided to give up on that exercise!

    Attached are a few of my favorite examples.    Read more

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    A few more Art Nouveau in Riga

    July 17 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Came home too late last night to write, so here are more without much chatter.

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    In a nod to their Pagan heritage, these folks put faces of God's around the doors
    The Black Heads Guild in Riga. It appears that the statues of patron St Maurice are black2Roland (Song of) was a popular figure for the public squareThis street appeared in every Russian movie about fictional Europe4Riga town square. Used to be full of blogs. Torn down ca. 19002St Jakubs Church in Riga. You know where this goes!View of St Jim's2The cat on top originally had it's posterior facing the Germans across the street2Richard Wagner St. He lived here 1837-39 & wrote Flying Dutchman after a harrowing escapeA Mespils on the square!1The movie "Flow" written by 3 Rigans. Saw it on the plane. Unusual.Freedom Monument. Only guarded during day & in nice weax.Recital of organ music at the Dome. Once largest organ in the world. Takes 2 to play.House of 3 Brothers. Band played Amer. the Beautiful when we came by. Gave 'em €5

    Walking in Old Town Riga

    July 17 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Wednesday centered on four activities: a lecture on Latvian politics & economics, et al; a history walk; an Art Nouveau walk; and an organ recital at the Dome Cathedral.
    During the talk there was a lot of data presented quite quickly but here are a few things I thought were of interest: *the biggest political party of Russophiles recd 18% of the vote but was kept out of govt by the next four parties forming a coalition.
    *Riga was founded on the river in 1201 by German bishop Albert (who built the cathedral) and became prosperous as an continental connector. They called their river the path from "the Vikings to the Greeks". It seems not to be as navigable today.
    *One-third of the bldgs were destroyed in WW2.
    We learned that the locals call the cobblestone streets "foot massagers". One way to look at it.
    Lastly, bldg heights are limited so that in winter the city is not totally in shadow!
    I put more commentary on the pix.    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    2Once you have deported all the community leaders, changing history is unopposed
    1989 chain for independence from Vilnius to Riga to Tallinn1A poem for todayMika deported in a cattle car enroute the GULAG.2A bas-relief outside our risto window depicting one of the early five-year song and dance festivals.

    When It Rains In Riga

    July 17 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After a late night (for us) on Wednesday, we got a later start than usual this morning with the Museum of Occupation of Latvia. This was another splendid, in-depth presentation of the depredations of the Soviets thenthe Nazis and the the Soviets again between 1940 and 1994, and the resistance and resilience of the Latvian people.
    We learned that GULAG is an acronym (you can look it up) and aside from the Nazis, the Russkies had two massive deportations -- one in June 1941, and the 2nd in 1944-49. These victims, those who survived, did not return until after Stalin died o/a 1956.
    To help children understand the history, they used a teddy bear named "Mika" to undergo some of the same trauma as adults. Although I am not a child, it appeared to be a effective tool.
    We gave it 3.5 hours and could not have finished a minute earlier.
    We exited the museum to a brief 20 minute shower (which we enjoyed back under cover of the museum's awning) and decided to take the #11 tram up to the Leima Chocolate Factory and back. Always fun riding city trams.
    Upon a alighting, we reviewed our to-do list and concluded that it was past 1500 and that a beautiful, sunny afternoon like today deserved a pleasant glass of wine al fresco. And after wandering a bit in the Old Town, we did just that.
    We were seated just 25 minutes when began a light rain. We we pleased that we had elected to be under an awning. The sprinkle turned into a 30-min monsoonal downpour replete with booming thunder and lightning. ⛈️ Folks rushed in to take cover including two cyclists (who stayed for lunch) and a Uber eats bike delivery guy. We had no problem ordering more wine to wait out the storm!    Read more

  • Helsinki & the Baltics
    1Pan fried perch on a bed of puréed peas with a salsa of mango and pistachios
    I would love to see the US apply this to the Ukrainian situation2Tom is still trying to reach the 4th level of donkey, dog, cat, and rooster. Tonight wasn't the ni

    A meaningful day topped off by a great m

    July 17 in Latvia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I think we indicated that food tax would n Helsinki was 14% and alcohol 25.5%. In contrast, in Latvia, there is no list d tax for food or alcohol. We had a nice Chardonnay from Chile tonight that paired nicely with pan fried perch.

    Tom is writing about our 3 and 1/2 hour visit to the Museum of Occupation today. The people of the Baltic states know well how cruel the Russians can be, as depicted at the Museum. The Russian playbook there is similar to the actions they took during n Poland — get rid of the intelligentsia, control what is taught in schools, eliminate the opposition, and control the media. I admire the locals greatly for their perseverance and drive for freedom.    Read more

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