South to Coyoacan

Trotsky, Frida Kahlo, and Diego de Rivera, the trio we focused on today. First stop, the house where Trotsky was living in exile when the Stalinists killed him. Really learned a lot in the video, and it was sad to see how the family had to live in what was essentially a bunker, only to have an insider take an ice pick to Trotsky's head.

From there, it was a short 5 or 6 blocks to Frida Kahlo's house. Beautiful place, with lots of her things (including her wheel chairs, back braces and many dresses. Many of her personal effects have only been seen recently, because of Rivera's wishes that rooms be kept sealed for 50 (?) years. The house has a beautiful garden, and there was a special exhibit of many of the traditional dresses she wore. It's one of the most visited sites in Mexico City!

Since Coyoacán used to be its own little town, it comes complete with square, markets, and a really peaceful vibe. We had a great lunch at a place recommended to me, Danzantes. Their terrace abuts one of the tree-filled squares. If you go, by all means eat an Hoja Santa, made with some sort of local leaves, stuffed with queso blanco and green sauce and a terrific spice combination. Joe had a Mexican style risotto, also very good. Too much food but we are loving it.Read more