Fuenterroble

Yesterday afternoon two cyclists arrived at the Casa rural. They were having a hard time, because the metal structure supporting the panniers had snapped on one of the bikes. The makeshift solution was on its last legs. They had taken a 12 km detour to a large town, but could find no one to help. They were thinking their camino was over. The woman who checked them in suggested they go see Ernesto, a retired welder/iron worker. And what do you know, in less than two hours, he had totally fixed the problem. Adamantly refusing payment, he told the cyclist to give Santiago a hug on his behalf when he got there. And on the way out of town this morning, Ernesto’s metal Santiago bade us a Buen Camino. .

With the shortest walk of my whole trip (about 20 km), I stretched it out as long as I could, but even so got to Fuenterroble before noon. Imagine my surprise when I recognized the French hospitalera who greeted me as one I had stayed with before TWICE—once in Miraz more than 10 years ago and once in Rabanal a few years after that.

This Albergue is probably the most well known on the Vdlp. Started by a priest, Don Blas, it is one of the few remaining “donativo” albergues. They give you a bed, supper, and breakfast, and leave it up to you to decide how much to give. It’s staffed by volunteers and connected to the workshop where several workers are busy restoring old wooden donkey carts. Blas takes a group of them (donkeys, carts, food, tents, children, adults) every year for a pilgrimage in all different parts of the world. The albergue walls are decorated with the backs of carts that have been used on past pilgrimages.

Last time I was here a big US flag was flying in the courtyard to remind everyone that the US pilgrims association had given a donation. I thought it was in pretty bad taste. This year the flag is gone but the big cement stand for the pole remains. I learned that the flag blew off one night during a huge storm, ironically when some officers of the US association were visiting.

Lows for tonight are predicted to be -1 or -2 C. That will make for some very cold pilgrims tomorrow. My only solution for the legs is to wear both pairs of pants. Unfortunately they are both very lightweight.Read more