Moving on to Salerno

Salerno is not exactly a highly renowned tourist stop, but it is the easternmost point of the Amalfi Coast and a convenient way to get up to Rome. And there are some very highly recommended Greek temples about an hour from here, so we decided to make Salerno a stop. It has a huge port and an ancient centro historico. The Allies invaded Italy here, but unfortunately the small museum documenting the event was closed.

The bus ride from Amalfi to Salerno was another one of those 90 minute rides to go 25 kms. This time we had several points where two buses met head on and there was simply no way for them to maneuver. It involved backing up, stopping traffic, and eventually squeezing by with only inches to spare. The ride was beautiful, but there is no way in the world I would want to drive it — the bus was scary enough.

In Salerno, we found our little B and B in the old town and were out and about in plenty of time for lunch. At Mamma Rosa’s, we found ourselves in with lots of regular diners. A very popular place, Mamma Rosa is still there, and her quote on the wall is “I love cooking more than anything except my children.” Watching her interact with what must have been her grandkids gave credence to that quote.

Afternoon was spent at the amazing 11th century cathedral, where the apostle Matthew is buried (the apostle Andrew is in Amalfi, so this must be a popular area for apostles). The mosaics were gorgeous.

Then to the archaeological museum, where the 2nd century BC bronze head of Apollo was the standout.

We are in a weird little place, picked because it is about 4 minutes from Novella Fitness, where I was able to use the elliptical for a mere 7 euros! Dinner in another totally crammed and popular place, Irys, where they had just run out of red wine (in Italy?!) but the food was very good.Read more