Architecture, Music, and a Hike

What a very nice way to start 2019– first, a visit to the cathedral (unfortunately the stunning romanesque facade was not matched with a similar interior — on orders of some king, the whole inside got a baroque make-over). St. Andrew is buried here, and his remains are reported to undergo a similar annual miracle as San Gennaro in Naples — instead of his blood liquifying, it is some substance that oozes out of the container of his remains. Rather grotesque, actually, but I get the role that faith plays in these things and in the lives of the congregants.

Then a surprise — a chamber orchestra playing all sorts of music in a free concert inside the basilica. Our favorites were the various opera pieces — all very well known, from Carmen, Merry Widow, Granada, a few more. We enjoyed it a lot.

From there, time to walk. Up, up, up again, just as high as yesterday, but to another town, Pontone, which looks across a gorge at Ravello. In Pontone, luckily, we found an unexceptional pizzeria open, so Joe could sit and eat while I went on to the Torre dello Ziro, and up to the ruined church of Sant Eustacio. Unfortunately, the site was closed —I would really have liked to see the apse up close.

Back down just as the sun was setting — time to think about dinner options. Lots of restaurants seem to be closed, but there are crowds in the square outside our room again, enjoying more folklore. I am pretty sure there will not be late night concerts, at least I am hoping that’s the case!Read more