Short stage, many hours

It is only about 24 kms from Vegacervera to Pola de Gordon, but even though we left around 7:15, three hours later we were only about 10 km along, sitting in a bar in Ciñera, drinking an Aquarius.

We had just completed the most difficult descent I have ever had the pleasure of walking on any Camino. In hindsight it was really a bit dangerous, but once you get going it’s hard to justify going back up, especially when you don’t know how to find your way back to the Camino. One pole each, ginger baby steps, and we made it.

Once at the bottom we went through a narrow gorge and emerged in a magical beech forest. Continuing on we passed a closed mine shaft and, now on a cart track, easily made it into the town of Ciñera with a very welcome bar.

This former mining town has fallen on very hard times, and in the square there is a sad reminder of the perils of mining.

I had an Aquarius to celebrate what I thought would be the end of my walking troubles. Little did we now that after our next steep ascent we would be in a hilly undulating meadow with no discernible path. In cases like these the GPS can only help so much. The accuracy is a band of about 9 feet, so when you don’t see a path it’s very hard to pick your way ahead in the general direction you know you have to go.

But once again, post shower it all blends into the camino glow and I am sure that whatever food we can find in this small town will be exceptional!Read more