To Olvera (18 km and 540 m up)

It’s hard to imagine a more perfect short day. It had a little bit of everything that I love about the Camino — beautiful countryside, interesting churches, chances to talk with people living their lives, a great stopping mid-point for a Kas de Limón (terrace with a view), a few aerobic ascents, a charming pensión, a beautiful castle to climb, and a fabulous restaurant.

The first bit to Torre Alhaquime was all cropland. Many green fields but some that looked brown and barren. Much to our surprise, we saw people out there working in those brown fields. Turns out it’s asparagus picking. Backbreaking work that must be done by hand because the shoots mature at totally different times. The man we talked to had a family business. He said that between February and May, they come out to the fields every day, and slice off by hand the ones that are ready. He told us that today’s crop would be heading to Germany.

We had a long, gentle decent to the town, where there were remnants of an Arab fortress, and walls that used to surround the town. We had a nice break out on a terrace. In the bar, 3 tables of men were playing dominos. After that, 4 km to our destination, with a few huffing and puffing ascents. In the middle was the chapel of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, a Virgen who answers many petitions.

In Olvera, we are in a 5-room old style, family-run pension. We walked up to the castle and then had a great meal in Tarara. If you are looking for a really good restaurant in the area, this is the one. Kind of a foodie place.

Post-prandial activities will include walking up to a garden on a promontory and going to a grocery store.Read more