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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGoing to GreeceLaurie Reynolds

    Day in Fira

    5 de octubre de 2019, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We woke up to bright sunshine, and decided to head for Fira — main city, cruise ship central, tourist shopping heaven. Our hotel had offered us a spot on a fancy boat tour around the caldera and to the volcano, but at 160 € a head, we thought it was a bit much. So we headed into Fira, found the big parking lot (which still had a few places at 10 am, thankfully), and walked down to the old port. From 1200’ above sea level to the port took about 20 minutes. We could have taken a donkey, but decided to walk. Once at the old port, we easily bought tickets for an 11 am boat tour, 20 € per person, thank you very much.

    We went to the hot springs, then to the island nearby where the only live crater is. It was a good climb up through the lava field, and it was so easy to see the outline of what used to be the island, till the volcanic eruption in 1500 BC that is. Amazing views.

    Once back in the port, Joe took the 3 minute cable car while I walked back up, dodging lots of donkey poop, hoping to beat him because the line was long. But he got there first. After lunch, we went to the prehistoric museum — I had never focused on Minoan artifacts and art, but these were really beautiful. Then some more walking along the twisty top paths with gorgeous views out, over the cliff towns, the sheer cliffs, and the turquoise water. It is truly beautiful, most beautiful view while eating an ice cream ever, but the tiny alleys of every kind of tourist trinket is not for me. We bought some great takeout and will soon be chowing down on our little terrace once again. Very happy to be here. 😋    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGoing to GreeceLaurie Reynolds
    1

    Ruins!

    4 de octubre de 2019, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Ruins and more ruins. First, we went to the Greek and Roman ruins of Ancient Thira, from about 900 BC to several centuries AD a city way up high with ruins of a theater, a garrison, lots of temples. Then we went to the really old ruins, a Minoan city from about 3000 BC. It had been buried in a volcanic eruption about 1500 BC. No human remains were found, so they must have had warning. Half the island was submerged, leaving the Caldera/crater, which has led some to speculate that this is where Atlantis was. Too bad that at both sites, all the frescoes, and most of the pottery and statuary have been placed in the Thira museum (and some, probably the best, went to Athens). So tomorrow we will have to go to the museum.

    After lunch on the Red Beach, we decided to brave the crowds and head for either Fira/Thira or Imervogli. Fira was just way too crazy, so on we went. Found a primo parking place in Imervogli, so we took advantage and spent several hours walking around, it is beautiful. Joe stayed in a cafe hanging on a cliff while I walked out to a nearby rock with gorgeous views. Unfortunately, I did not think I should do the last 50 m or so, it was pretty much scrambling on rock. But it was a good bit of energetic walking and nearly top views, while Joe sipped his 5 euro iced coffee.

    Crowds are pretty crazy, this is nothing like Sicily in October, where we had enormous parking lots all to ourselves! To give you some idea of the number of tourists — I was just looking for driving directions to the archaeological musem tomorrow. And google maps shows several stretches of “red” on the route now. And this is 9 pm on October 4!!!! I would not venture here in high season.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGoing to GreeceLaurie Reynolds

    Made it to Santorini!

    3 de octubre de 2019, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The flight to London was smooth, the flight to Santorini bumpy, but we arrived right on time at 4:15 p.m. The one little passport control cubicle was empty when we arrived, but thankfully we were the only flight arriving. By 5:15 we were through passport control and were driving out of the airport in our rental car. Joe had not brought the car GPS, though he thought he had, but in an uncharacteristic stroke of tech skills I was able to download google maps for Santorini and mainland Greece. And, even more amazing, it worked offline as it was supposed to!

    The touristy side of the island rings the volcanic crater, called the Caldera. We are about a two minute hike up to get to the Caldera side, but our hotel is on the other side of that high ridge, which means a sea view but no Caldera view. But the real benefit is that it is much quieter. Truth be told, though, it was one of only two hotels on the island that has an elliptical — and this one has a sea view!

    The island is very small, so by 6, Joe was taking a nap and I was on the elliptical. I also had time for a short walk along the Caldera, it was just gorgeous. We ventured out for dinner in the car around 8, but were gobsmacked by the crowds in Fira. I thought this wasn’t high season!!! We just kept driving till we found a place to park the car. It was in front of a supermarket, with not a restaurant in sight, so we just bought some food and wine (choice in red wine was one labeled “dry red wine” and the other “sweet red wine.” It is not up to my wine cellar friends’ standards.)

    But we are now on the terrace of our room, overlooking the pool, eating very yummy sheep cheese and salami on pita while sipping “dry red wine.”

    Tomorrow Ancient Thira and some island exploration. I will not be spending a lot of time shopping in Thira, of that you can be sure.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsGoing to GreeceLaurie Reynolds

    On our way to Greece

    2 de octubre de 2019, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Well, we made it to the Chicago airport, though our flight from Champaign was a bit late, and our next flight boards in about a half hour. This is a trip Joe has wanted to take for many years, so in the spirit of Carpe Diem, here we go. We fly to Santorini (Chicago - London - Santorini), have four nights there with me learning how to drive in Greece, boat to Mykonos, three nights there. Fly to Athens and pick up rental car for about a week to Delphi, some monasteries, some Byzantine churches, some mountains. Then we will relax for a bunch of days in a nice Athens hotel. I fell for the view of the Acropolis from the breakfast room and the snazzy fitness center with ellipticals.

    I am a little out of my comfort zone, but I remember that I have driven in Hungary where the road signs were equally unintelligible. I ultimately decided to buy a real paper map for Santorini, because when I did a google street view of the route from the Santorini airport to our hotel, I saw that google was taking me on dirt roads, one of which seemed to end in a dump. So I figured I will be a lot better off with a real map. Lots of hours traveling ahead of us, but the excitement will make it bearable.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Time to head home

    14 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We had one last walk on Copacabana beach, time in the fitness center😄, a visit to the Museum of Modern Art, and a stroll around the WWII monument and the yacht club, with a cloud-covered Sugar Loaf in the background.

    Almost 300 Brazilians died in WWII, fighting alongside US troops in and around Naples. In 1960, their bodies were returned to Rio and the monument constructed. The military commander explained why he was pushing for the new monument— I was the one who took them over to their sacrifice, so it’s up to me to bring them home. So sad.

    At the airport getting ready for what will be a LONG travel day— home in about 24 hours from now! Joe is happy and has just checked his “to do” list to see that there is nothing left on it. A good nostalgic visit for him.

    P.s. only in Brazil would they name an airline GOL    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds
    1

    Feijoada Flop

    13 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Joe kept insisting he had to have a feijoada. It’s the “typical” Brazilian meal, a pot filled with all kinds of meats, surrounded by plates of mantioc flour, collard greens, orange slices, beans, rice, etc. The place he remembered, the restaurant in the modernist Copacabana Palace Hotel, no longer serves feijoada. But we persisted.

    After a visit to the Copacabana Fort, built by the Portuguese to fend off the French, British, and Dutch (and maybe a few more), we took a long walk on two other iconic Brazilian beaches — Arpoador (named after the Harpoon Stone, from which harpooners supposedly used to hunt whales) and Ipanema. Now that I can compare all the beaches, I would say for sure that Copacabana is the prettiest — longest stretches of sand, widest beaches. But all of them have side lanes of traffic whizzing by and endless high rise apartment buildings.

    And then, having worked up an appetite, came the feijoada. Let’s just say it’s one of those experiences that should have been left in the memory and not repeated. I am glad I chose a salad. Now Joe is sleeping it off, and I am feeling superior for having been able to hop on the elliptical without feeling like I had a rock in my stomach. And now I am on the hotel terrace looking out as dark clouds move ini. All very dramatic.

    Home tomorrow!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Folklore and Presidents

    12 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We had a really nice combination of things to do today. First to the folklore museum — nice artifacts, but for me the highlight was the cute groups of school kids. Then a short walk to the former Presidential Palace now a museum, and the place where the dictator Getúlio Vargas committed suicide. The gun he used and his bloody nightshirt are on display, kind of grotesque, I thought. All of our day’s locations were within a km or so of each other, so we walked around downtown a lot. That is one of my favorite activities when in a big city.

    Lunch in another restaurant Joe remembered — another white tablecloth place, I am getting the idea that he was usually living high on the hog down here. From there we went to the Institute where lots of research was done. And since Joe has never met an academic bookstore he didn’t love, he was in hog heaven. We got inside the institute and walked around his old haunts, even though the archives where he spent the most time have been moved.

    Dinner tonight in a Lebanese restaurant — after a week in Sao Paulo with its excellent Lebanese restaurants, this one has a pretty high standard to live up to, we will see!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Downtown Rio

    11 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We had a vague plan when we left this morning. First stop, the Museu do Arte do Rio, in an old train station, Interesting collection, fun to visit, and with a great view from the sixth floor rooftop! Across the praça is the futuristic waterfront Museu de Amanha (Museum of Tomorrow). We didn’t visit it but really enjoyed walking around and getting the views of the port, Niteroi across the bay, etc.

    Joe remembered good lunches in the Cafe do Colombo, where we headed for lunch, getting lost and ultimately hopping in a cab. Belle Epoque, this place used to be for the upper crust, but is very democratic nowadays. Really lovely, with three different floors of different kinds of service. We took the top floor — better food and nicer surroundings.

    From there we walked to the National Library where Joe spent many many hours doing research way back when. It was a nice trip down memory lane. Across the street is the over the top Municipal Theater, built in the early 1900s in four years of non-stop building and cost overruns. The total price, ten times the projected cost, constituted 2% of the GNP for one year. But it is gorgeous — nothing built in Brazil, evry single thing was imported from Europe in pieces and then assembled on site. Stained glass from Germany, marble from Italy, etc etc.

    Time is flying — we have only two more full days and then a long haul back to the midwest.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Back in full tourist mode

    10 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Last night I was once again mistaken for the women’s soccer coach. I looked her up and see that she was a very controversial hire and has not done anything good for the Brazilian team. Currently ranked number 10, that is their lowest ranking ever. Not a great doppleganger to have!

    Joe felt much better this morning, so we decided to head for Corcovado. The weather shows clouds and possible showers later in the week, so decided that though the morning was a bit hazy, we should carpe diem. Probably everyone has seen the statue of Christ the Redeemer way up on the top of a huge rock. The cog railway took more than a half hour to get up there, through jungle type forest. We spent about an hour up there looking around, walking through some paths from one view to the other, really a highlight of any trip to Rio.

    Unfortunately the Primitive Art museum we thought was right up the hill has closed, so on to Plan B. The Botanical Gardens. As is usually our experience, especially in small tourist venues, the café/restaurante in these places tend to be just fine. And this was no exception, a really nice, cool spot with decent food. Lots of orchids, 150 year old palm trees, jacarandá trees, you get the picture. Very pleasant, good recommendation Katy!

    Tomorrow we will probably head downtown to some more serious touristic visits — palaces, churches, monasteries and stuff like that.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Sugar Loaf and being a beach bum

    9 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Joe’s rich pasta dish last night must have not been the best choice, or maybe the tap water did it, but for whatever reason, we had a very late morning start. I took advantage and walked a few miles up and down the beach, and by 11 or so we were on our way to the “bondinho” (cable car) up to Sugar Loaf Mountain. It is a big piece of rock jutting out of the water, with amazing views. Getting there involves a stop on an intermediary rock, about half as high as Sugar Loaf itself. The views at every turn were pretty amazing, but I have to say I was left wishing I could have seen the bays and coves and mountains before all the high rise building.

    After a lunch in a beach café, I was once again left to entertain myself for a few hours, and this time I spent a good chunk of post-elliptical time sitting on the roof of our hotel in a beach chair next to the pool with views over the ocean below. Yes, very uncharacteristic of me to sit and do nothing, but it was relaxing, I will admit. Not sure about dinner tonight, that will depend on Joe’s stomach.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    On to Rio

    8 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We sadly said goodbye to dear daughter, who is staying another day in Sao Paulo to see friends, and hopped on a short flight to Rio. At the airport, a group of about 5 was obviously talking about me, and 2 took my picture. I guess this is as close to famous as I will ever be — my son told me I should put on a Brazil selection shirt or jacket and then see how I get the royal treatment. :-)

    Uber has flooded the Rio airport. There are special signs pointing you down the Uber path, and a meeting point with about 20 parking spots. Three Uber employees direct traffic, announce arrivals of drivers, and call for passengers. The fare into town was about $10, compared to $50 in a cab. As you might imagine, there was nothing going on at the taxi stands.

    Our hotel is right on the beach named Leme, the so-called “quiet family zone.” We’re on the 15th floor with a pretty decent side view (I guess you pay more for a beach-facing view, but at least we are not in the back!). We have eaten, walked, and worked out (LifeFitness elliptical, woo hoo!), and it is night. The roof-top pool has a restaurant with great views. I assume the food is bad and overpriced, but we may just go ahead and splurge tonight.

    Since we have lost our tour guide, we will have to start reading up on the sights and planning a few days’ worth of activities. The one thing I was sure to do was book a feijoada in the Copacabana Palace for Saturday. Feijoada on Saturday is a Brazilian tradition and the one we had there 30 years ago was pretty good!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Parks and Markets

    7 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Well, last night someone came up to me in a restaurant and asked if he could take a picture with me. He thought I was the Brazilian women’s soccer team coach. My kids think we are dopplegangers, I think it’s just two old ladies with white hair.

    We spent a lot of the day in Ibirapuera Park, just walking and watching all the people. It’s huge and on weekends just busting with all kinds of people. A few minutes in the Modern Art Museum, and then off to a food/antiques/crafts market. And since the big Avenida Paulista (two blocks from our hotel) was closed to car traffic all day, Katy and I spent a couple more hours walking up and down.

    Our last Sao Paulo meal together is tonight, and then Joe and I head alone to Rio in the morning. I am going to really miss having Katy with us, we have had such a great time.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds
    1

    USP and MASP (oospee and maspee)

    6 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was the trip to the university. That’s where Katy’s school, Joe’s department, and my institute were. We made it to the first two (my choice).

    After all the visits we headed to the main art museum. Paintings are displayed in rows of “glass easels.” Kind of disconcerting at first because all the info about the painting is stuck on the back of it. Goya, Velazquez , Bosch, and Van Gogh were just some of the many masters displayed.

    Since last night we had a pizza that we could never hope to beat (unless it were S-I-L Ben’s) at a really lovely restaurant named Veridiana (think Buñuel), we are going to scout for something different tonight.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    All over town

    5 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another cloudy drizzly day. We decided to go to the Oscar Americano Foundation, the estate of a business magnate who donated his modernist home to the city for preservation as a garden and museum. We had been there years ago when my mom visited us in Sao Paulo. I remember an elaborate British tea, which we didn’t have today because we had our eyes set on a traditional Sao Paulo “lanchonete.”

    After a couple of hours walking around the garden and museum, we did stop in the café for some pao de queijo. If you’ve never had it, you are missing out!

    Our trip to the lanchonete took us to a burger joint, so we opted for the Dib Lebanese restaurant next door. Delicious, once again.

    Final stop of the day, the Afro-Brazilian museum, a slightly confusing collection but lots of really intresting historical and artistic material.

    Dinner is likely to be pizza, maybe back to our neighborhood and the now very trendy Pizzaria Margherita.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Cold and cloudy but a fun day

    4 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Katy arrived this morning, just as we were going into a late breakfast. Once she was all settled, we headed out to walk for several hours, back to our old apartment. This time the “zelador” (caretaker) was there and let us in to walk around a bit. From there, through the fancy neighborhood called the Jardins (gardens). The biggest difference I noticed from 30 years ago was that all the jagged glass that used to be on the top of the 20’ walls had been replaced with electronic alarm systems. A slightly better aesthetic. On the way to the lunch place, we got within a few feet of a Lamborghini, the closest I will probably ever get, even though there was bullet-proof glass between us.

    We met one of Joe’s old Brazilianist friends for a big and long lunch. After that, an Uber to the Pinacoteca, the state museum of Brazilian art. Though I had only heard of one of the painters, Tarsila do Amaral, I saw a lot of works I liked very much.

    We ended the day with dinner at Arabia, one of three or four of the top Lebanese restaurants in Sao Paulo. Absolutely delicious.

    It’s good having Katy along, because not only does she choose all the food, she also is our trip planner. So I can just go to sleep and forget about looking at the guidebook.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds
    11

    Back in Sao Paulo

    3 de septiembre de 2019, Brasil ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Our flight was 90 minutes late, which was actually not such a bad thing, since we could sleep a little more than if we had left at 7. There is a new spiffy and very large international terminal at the Sao Paulo airport, but it only took us about a half hour to get off the plane, through customs and to the taxi stand. Then it was another 90 minutes to cover the 15 miles to our hotel. Traffic here is what you would expect in a city of 18 million!

    After the necessary trip to the elliptical, we went out walking around towards our old neighborhood. Joe may not be very good with directions, but he can find a book store he hasn’t been in in 30 years. Our visit there got prolonged by the heavy downpours, which also was the reason for a long stop in Starbucks! By early evening, the rain was no longer torrential, but the streets were like rivers. We navigated back to our old neighborhood and saw that the very same swing our 4 year old David fell off was still there! Not a terribly happy memory, since it caused a slight skull fracture, days in the hospital, and lots of anxiety, but I was surprised it hadn’t moved an inch or changed color.

    We ended the day with a dinner at an old neighborhood favorite, Losteria do Piero, and well, let’s just say the memories should have been left untouched. Not a bad meal by any means, but the agriao (water cress) salad had fallen many notches. The pasta was still good, but I had been dreaming about that agriao salad!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    In the Dallas Airport

    2 de septiembre de 2019, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Oh, this (relatively new) American flight from Champaign to Dallas is great. Quick, no mess with O´Hare, and we get to Dallas in time to make lots of international connections. Today’s will be to Sao Paulo. Since Joe’s tenure as a Brazilian historian goes back about 50 years, we decided it was time for what might be “one last trip” to see friends, re-visit old haunts, etc. So we will spend five nights in Sao Paulo, 6 in Rio.

    Since our society seems to know no limits in its relentless quest to distinguish people on the basis of status, American is opening “flagship lounges” in its major airports. That means that the Admirals Club has become a club for the masses, and the flagship lounge is for the cream. I am not really complaining, though, because even though I am wearing my old jeans and my beloved Altra shoes that walked 800 kms this summer in Spain, my boarding pass lets me in. :-). I will say, though, that although this club surpasses my former favorite of the Iberia lounge in Madrid, the Iberia lounge still has a leg up on this place because it has a dark room with beds. On our return, we will arrive at 5 am, with our connection at 10 am, and that amenity would have been quite nice.

    And finally, in another nod to total slothiness, I used miles to buy upgrades. That means we will lie FLAT on this overnight trip. How great is that?! And since the time change is only two hours, we should not have all the zonking discombobulation that you get when you fly to Europe.

    Though I have to admit, Brazil is not my favorite travel destination, I am looking forward to these two weeks. Our daughter is coming to spend the first five days with us, so that will be really fun. And six nights in Rio, well, that can’t be bad.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    My great stroke of luck

    6 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The Pórtico de la Gloria is one of the world’s most beautiful pieces of Romanesque. It has been undergoing restoration for years. Before the restoration, you could just walk up and admire it (it is the original Romanesque facade of the cathedral). There is a big baroque facade in front of it, and for some unknown reason, the Baroque builders left it in place rather than knock it down.

    The renovations are done and now there is limited access and that just makes it more in demand. Tickets were sold out for weeks but today I just walked over to see if by chance any had become available. Well, lucky me, the new head of the museum, Inma, is someone I know from years ago when I volunteered in the pilgrims office. So I got in. It is amazing, just amazing. Best way ever to end a day in Santiago.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    11

    In Santiago, done walking!

    6 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    It was an easy quick stroll into Santiago. 4 km up to the Albergue, then another 17 going up and down till we got to a spot where we could see the cathedral.

    This Camino passes over the tracks near the spot where there was a horrific train accident when the driver took the curve too fast. Lots of makeshift memorials, now several years old, but it always gives pause.

    Arriving at the cathedral was somewhat euphoric, somewhat flat, somewhat sad. Hard to explain. but it was the first time in many years that the cathedral was without scaffolding!

    Now I’ll have a day to revisit some of the places I love, all the while resisting the urge to start planning next year’s camino. But it will be my 70th birthday year, so I will have to do something special!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    One more day

    5 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Since I was leaving so early, the hotel staff left me breakfast in a sitting room. They even hauled up a microwave and toaster so I could have hot coffee and toasted bread!

    These last days are not the most spectacular scenery, but it was really nice in a few spots. There’s a medieval bridge, an 11C church with Samson killing the lion, a couple of really nice panoramic views, all in all a good pilgrim day!

    I was going to head to the Albergue but in the end opted to stop four kms sooner. That means tomorrow starts with a 4 km climb, but I would have had to carry up some food since there’s nothing else up there.

    So here I am in the pension where I’ve stayed a couple of times. The woman recognized me, maybe there aren’t too many white haired ladies walking in these parts.

    Tomorrow, just a short 21 km to Santiago!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Celebrating the 4th in Bendoiro

    4 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I have walked past a 17th century stone Pazo (estate) turned hotel many times and have always been tempted. This year, since I would be walking by on the 4th of July, it seemed like a good year to yield to the temptation. The Pazo de Bendoiro was willing to take me in, http://www.pazodebendoiro.com and the rate was really pretty good. it’s a big estate and there are beautiful gardens and patios for just vegging our. A good choice!

    The walk was a good mix of rural, forests, dairy farms, small hamlets, one big town with its glorious river walk, and then four kms through a typically ugly industrial park. I had a really nice conversation with a woman tending her spectacular vegetable garden. She rarely buys any at all, the plot has things growing all year!

    By 1 pm I was checking in after walking 29 km. I think the thought of a bit of luxury put some pep in my step. Luxurious sheets, thick towels, wow.

    So I am about 50 km from Santiago. Since I didn’t walk into Santiago last year for lack of time, I am really looking forward to it. TWO DAYS!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    The home stretch

    3 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today’s 29 kms sort of sailed by. I passed two old stone boxes of alms for the souls in purgatory, but no donations have been dropped in the rusty box for ages.

    It was a pretty, rural walk except for the 6 interminable kms right below a huge line of windmills. Thankfully they weren’t operating, because otherwise you are walking to the rhythm of an annoying flap, flap, flap.

    I had a climb up to the “spiritual center” of Galicia, with its chapel, stations of the cross, and views to all four provinces of Galicia. Unfortunately for me, the cloud cover obscured some of the view, but it had made for much cooler walking on those 1200 feet of ascent.

    I’ve finally met some people, and I am also finding that there will be a lot of people I know in Santiago. It will be nice to have Sunday there to hang out and do one or two of the many tourist things I’ve done so often but always enjoy.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short and gorgeous

    2 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    My choice was 14 km or 41 kms. I’ve done a bunch of 40+ stages this year but I am in the home stretch and am winding down. So I opted for short.

    I didn’t set the alarm this morning and was surprised that I slept till about 7:15! That’s not a camino timetable. But with such a short day it didn’t really matter. I lounged around in my room and made TWO cups of (bad instant) coffee and set out about an hour later.

    The day was really quite beautiful. First to an XI century church with some of my favorite Romanesque carvings—two sweet little cow heads over the side door.

    From there it’s a few km down on Roman road to the river. Believe me, the excitement over walking on a real Roman Road wears off quickly when it’s a steep descent and when the wear and tear of more than 2,000 years has turned the road into a rocky mess. But arriving at the Miño River is magical. So beautiful.

    From there up the other side of the river, short and steep through beautiful vineyards with several beautiful wineries with outdoor terraces. From the top it’s a pretty straight shot into the destination, a small city named Chantada, where the Hotel Mogay had a room with my name on it.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Very beautiful day

    1 de julio de 2019, España ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    By adding a gorgeous 6 km loop to the walk I was able to get the kms up to a respectable 24. It was such a pretty day. First through some small hamlets with lots of interludes on narrow cart tracks squeezed in between two ancient stone walls.

    And then this loop—two Romanesque churches, lots of vineyards, and views of an iconic oxbow loop in the Miño.

    But the part of the day that brought the biggest smile was when I checked into my casa rural and asked if by any chance they had found the credencial of a friend who was here several weeks ago. Answer was yes and we all jumped for joy. And my friend is also pretty happy, she had all but given up.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    To Monforte de Lemos

    30 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I think today’s walk was in the 32 km/20 mile range. I left early because of the heat forecast, but soon saw once again that weather forecasting is pretty imprecise. Instead of sunny, hot, and 90s, I had overcast and 70s most of the walk. Not complaining , mind you, but it does mean I didn’t have to leave my Hostal at 6 a.m.

    The walk wasn’t exactly spectacular, though mostly pleasant enough. Three ascents and their corresponding descents, mainly through pine forests, but some beautiful old growth as well. Only an occasional smattering of eucalyptus.

    A few kms outside of town, I ran into my first pilgrim!!! An Italian doctor, living in Canarias, who had just taken a fall in the notorious wet stony stretch. Everyone keeps saying this Camino is taking off, but I just haven’t seen anyone!!

    By 2, I was in my room washing clothes. I had a good menu del dia. A nice walk around the old town and up to the parador, and now getting ready for my typical 8 pm bedtime!

    Hard to believe I am not too far from Santiago.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    28 km along the Sil River

    29 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This was a beautiful day. I left right at 6 to try to get a big chunk in before it got too hot (temperature highs are in mid to high 90s these days). I was really lucky because for the first four hours I had almost no direct sun because of the mountains. So much of today is high above or right along the Sil River. There were several little villages, some with rehabilitation of old houses going on. No bars but enough fountains, so the water bottles kept getting refilled.

    At about 8 km, after a pretty tough descent to the river level, I saw an old man walking toward me. I took a chance — es Ud. Casimiro? Turns out it was the now 92 year old Casimiro. He lives in a house by the river, where he operated the mill till the 1960s to grind all the grain from the area. No more grain grown here. He also told me how in his youth he walked to Northern Portugal to buy cattle at a better price. No more herds here either. His wife died several months ago, he told me, and his two sons are now insisting he move to Madrid. No way will that happen, he assured me. 😁 He invited me in for a coffee and I would have loved to continue the conversation, but with mid 90s coming my way I declined. One of those sad decisions that I felt I had to make. He told me to tell all my friends to come visit him.

    All in all a great day—lots of snippets of conversations with people working in the fields, out for a walk, or renovating an old family home.    Leer más

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