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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Campo de Santiago

    22 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today I passed through the battlefield where St. James the Moorslayer (the non-pc alter ego of StJames the pilgrim) came back to life during the Reconquest and killed tens of thousands of Moors . Despite that awful image, it’s a beautiful spot.

    I left Vegarienza very early because my plan was to combine two short days into one and to split it up with a visit to Rosi, the woman who runs the Albergue in the middle. I wound up spending two hours there catching up. Five years ago, things were touch and go when I walked through. Now, the family is doing great. It was a really nice visit.

    But it did make for a very long 38 km day. And the big ascent came right after my visit with Rosi. I should have been rested but it was hard. By 4:30, though, after a Kas Limón break in the town with the longest name in all of Spain, I was checking into the Albergue. It’s very nice —lots of hot water and real sheets. That’s albergue luxury.

    And the restaurant across the street is making me an ensalada mixta and some fried eggs so I will be happy and full in a few minutes.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    2

    First day alone

    20 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This was a great day to get back into solitary walking, which I love. But it does take some getting used to after two weeks walking with a great camino buddy. Coffee in the room, on the road at 7.

    The whole day was virtually all off road with no roads or towns visible. Good prolonged ascent, a couple of tiny towns, lots of wide open views, and a bar for an Aquarius at km 17 four hours later. It had rained hard last night but there was very little mud.

    The rest of the walking day went quickly. It was a few kms on asphalt but minimal. Lots of beautiful riverside paths, up through oak forests, far from cars and highways.

    I am in a town with no cell service, but it has an albergue taken care of by the local association. And a little bar where two old women (85 and 83 yo) serve great meals. All is good.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    High point

    20 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was an amazing walk. I know, I’ve said that many times already. We went to 1900 m high (with only about a 700 m ascent and nothing too steep). The high point was spectacular.

    The descent was also quite gradual, and then we arrived at the Calderones, a geological wonder. It was like walking on the moon —very rocky, with lots of amazing formations. For the first couple of kms, we walked alongside a beautiful stream. Suddenly it disappeared and we were walking in the river bed. It was eerily silent. Then a few kms along, the stream burst out of the rocks and we followed it for several more kms.

    All in all a great walk. The last 6 km on asphalt didn’t even feel bad on my feet because of my cushy trail runners. I am in a Hostal in La Magdalena because the albergue doesn’t have any showers. Sorry if that makes me a pampered Peregrina.

    Alun has left on the bus to Leon. No other pilgrims here yet but I hope there will be some. Fingers crossed.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short stage, many hours

    19 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    It is only about 24 kms from Vegacervera to Pola de Gordon, but even though we left around 7:15, three hours later we were only about 10 km along, sitting in a bar in Ciñera, drinking an Aquarius.

    We had just completed the most difficult descent I have ever had the pleasure of walking on any Camino. In hindsight it was really a bit dangerous, but once you get going it’s hard to justify going back up, especially when you don’t know how to find your way back to the Camino. One pole each, ginger baby steps, and we made it.

    Once at the bottom we went through a narrow gorge and emerged in a magical beech forest. Continuing on we passed a closed mine shaft and, now on a cart track, easily made it into the town of Ciñera with a very welcome bar.

    This former mining town has fallen on very hard times, and in the square there is a sad reminder of the perils of mining.

    I had an Aquarius to celebrate what I thought would be the end of my walking troubles. Little did we now that after our next steep ascent we would be in a hilly undulating meadow with no discernible path. In cases like these the GPS can only help so much. The accuracy is a band of about 9 feet, so when you don’t see a path it’s very hard to pick your way ahead in the general direction you know you have to go.

    But once again, post shower it all blends into the camino glow and I am sure that whatever food we can find in this small town will be exceptional!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    From blah to wow

    18 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We left a little after 7. Having a day with 28 km in the mountains is a lot, as we learned on the Vasco. At first we followed the valley to get us behind the foothills. Then up and up, gently at first and then steep and rocky. As we reached the top, the valley spread out behind us. And then, another couple hundred meters huffing and puffing up up up, and bam we were in the mountains. It was one of those wow, indescribable moments. Packs off, sit down and absorb the beauty. We spent a while up here.

    From there we had a very gradual descent followed by another ascent to a different set of peaks. The views were gorgeous in all directions. When we finally got down to a little village, we had about 7 more km on an untraveled road till we got to Vegacervera, where we are staying in an albergue. It’s an outdoor camp for kids, but it’s not full so there is one cabin for peregrinos and the rest for the school kids.

    Ender drove over to see us, and he took us to a great restaurant for a late lunch. Then a little trip up to a nearby river gorge. Maybe that’s where the word “gorgeous” comes from because that’s an apt description.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    28 km to Boñar

    17 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We left right at 7, and have met two others walking the Olvidado. That’s good news for me because Alun is going to leave in a day or two. The beginning was lovely, the morning sun on the bridge over the Esla River so nice.

    Then it became more slog-like. Not one bar or cage open the entire stage. Then I took a hard fall on a rocky descent (nothing broken or too whacked up apparently). Then two huge menacing sheep dogs blocked our way till the flock was well out of range. So it was not exactly a five star day.

    But then little by little things picked up. First, we stopped to rest in the same little covered bench where I had been five years ago and remember getting a phone call from my buddy Lee out of the blue at that very spot. Then in a little village,, a woman working i her yard insisted we sit and have a cold drink and regaled us with questions about this Camino.

    And then to top things off, just as I went down to the checkin floor of our little hostal, my buddy Ender showed up to have lunch with us. Ender is his “screen name”, better known as the guy who single handedly revived the Salvador and now is trying to do the same with the Olvidado If anyone can do it, it will be him.

    So on balance I would say that my no good very bad day turned into another A+ good time.

    The only disappointing factoid is that the weather has changed, and a mix of clouds and rain is in the forecast.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    5 star day to Cistierna

    16 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    What are the odds—we got to the hotel around 2 pm and as I am checking in, the woman said to me —I remember you, you were here a few years ago and had a tick in your back. Yep, that was me.

    It was a perfect day. Coffee at 8 AM, a short 23 km to walk. Sunny, cool, lovely views of the mountains, a few ancient churches (One with a prominent carving of Santiago the moor slayer), great rest stops.

    My favorite bit of history from today is the story of the two mermaids engraved on the wall of a little church. Legend has it that two peregrinas walking to Santiago seduced some monks, And when the Abbot found out he was very angry. He turned the women into two mermaids and threw them into the river nearby. The guilty monks had to build a new church, putting the mermaid statues in the wall to remind them of their sins.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    In Puente Almuhey.

    15 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    In a straight shot on the road, Guardo to Puente Almuhey is about 13 km. But on the alternative that Ender has marked it’s about 36. Having done them both now I can tell you in no uncertain terms that the long route wins hands down.

    First on road to a little town with famous Roman arches, then up through a forest to a ridge with beautiful views ( note to self—when you realize you are off your GPS tracks and in a forest on a mountain, don’t try to find creative ways to re-join the tracks. Just go back down and get back on the right track immediately.)

    About halfway is the little town of Caminayo, a beautiful little hamlet whose residents used to work in the nearby mines. It’s now a town of a couple dozen. We saw a man cutting grass and asked him if there was a bar in town. One phone call later, and Lourdes was opening up the Centro Social and making us coffee. We had a really lovely stop.

    Then about 23 km down and we are now in Puente Almuhey. The Albergue has been closed due to some bureaucratic irregularities so we are in the gorgeous apartamentos turísticos Carricuende. Hard to believe that for 20 euros you get a private room, sheets and towels, washing machine, and breakfast in the bar they own next door. We have a 22 km day tomorrow, so we didn’t even bother to ask if we could have breakfast before their normal opening time of 8 am!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Very long day to Guardo

    14 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    But we made it. By 3:30 we were getting info about the albergue. Having left at 6:45, that makes for a long day. We knew it was about 38 kms (not quite 20 miles) so we were mentally prepared.

    The scenery, at least for the first 30 km, was quite nice. We went up to an old mine (where I got lost last time) and then down to what I would call a “rolling valley,” little hills surrounded by mountains. We went through five or six little towns, but not one with an open bar till about 1pm. That Kas de Limón really tasted great!!

    We made it into town only to learn it was a fiesta day here do nothing was open. Luckily the albergue owner will take care of us. We had a dinner of fried eggs, French fries, bacon and chorizo. And I ate almost every bit.

    Tomorrow is a 30 km mountain stage. Seems reasonable. We’ll see. Right now all I want to do is sleep!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    First day on the Olvidado

    13 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Yesterday I was able to walk to the priests’ house, get the keys to a 12C church in exchange for my passport, and walk up to Santa Cecilia, where there is a capital depicting the Slaughter of the Innocents that is just amazing. I am so glad I made the extra push to go see it, though it was a challenge trying to figure out how to open the door.

    Today’s 29 km seemed like s piece of cake. With total elevation gain at a very manageable 400 m, we sort of sailed through. The walk had three different parts. First up to the reservoir and around. Then through scrub brush and Holmes Oaks down to the river, and the last part along the river. Cool temps, sunny skies. We felt blessed

    Tomorrow is a long day, nearly 40 km, but we’ll leave early and take it slow.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    End of the Vasco

    12 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We finished up the Camino Vasco with a 28 km day into Santo Domingo de la Calzada, which is on the Camino Francés. We expected to see hoards but really didn’t see many pilgrims at all. It was a nice walk with one steep ascent at the beginning. Then a killer descent followed by mostly flat.

    After a quick lunch, we got the bus to Burgos. From there we got a “blablacar” to Aguilar de Campoo. That’s a rideshare platform where people driving places match up with people going places. He picked us up at the bus station and dropped us at the door of the hotel. Very nice.

    Tomorrow we start the Camino Olvidado, the forgotten camino. I think it’s likely that we’ll meet some other peregrinos.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Long day to Salinillas

    11 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Yesterday in Vitoria was great. We had an absolutely fantastic 13€ menu at El Gautxo It’s a beautiful old town, and the cathedral tour takes you down to the foundations and shows you all the foundation work and where the old city was. It was really fun.

    Today was a VERY long day, 45.6 km long to be exact. But here we are in an Albergue in Salinillas de Burandon, an old 14th century walled town. It is still technically in País Vasco, but its wine is eligible for Rioja denomination. The Albergue owner (a young guy with a Che patch on his pants) gave us a bottle of his family’s wine and we are enjoying it with our chorizo and cheese sandwiches. We carried up the sandwiches from the town 10 km back.

    My knee seems to be almost totally recuperated. We had one very steep descent today and I was not in pain!!!!

    Tomorrow about 30 km to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, and we hope to catch a couple of buses that will get us to Aguilar de Campoo, where we start the Olvidado and more mountains await!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short day to Vitoria

    10 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    I slept in till 7, made a coffee with my spiffy electric coil, and by 7:45 or so we were ambling our way to Vitoria, capital of the Basque Country.

    We passed a turn-off for a 2 km detour to the region’s “jewel of Romanesque” but since it is Monday and the church is closed, I passed on the chance to see the outside.

    We did go through a little town with a church with a Romanesque and doorway. Closed too, of course.

    The city of Vitoria has a beautiful downtown medieval core (was a walled city). Since the albergue didn’t open for almost two hours, we opted for a cheap pension in the old quarter. It’s fine.

    Currently icing my knee. Nothing to do before the 5 pm Cathedral tour except eat lunch, so I will rest up for a while now.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Saying goodbye to the mountains

    9 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today didn’t start well. I got a call from home at 4:20– little miscalculation there. Then as I was clumsily trying to turn off the phone I inadvertently called Alun and woke him up. Then I spilled a cup of coffee made with my electric coil.
    Luckily things got better quickly.

    We left early to avoid the predicted rain. Not a drop fell. The first 15 km or so of this stage were magical. Up through beech forest, enshrouded in fog, till finally we arrived at the tunnel. Just as we arrived, the sun burned through and we could see we were surrounded by jagged peaks. Through the tunnel, into another Basque province (Álava), and then kms more of forest.

    We got to the usual end stage of Salvatierra at around one and just weren’t ready to stop. So our only choice was another 14 to Alegría (Happiness). We made it, dragging at the end but very happy to have only a 16 km stage tomorrow. There is a wonderful albergue here and we each have our own room!

    Knee is doing much better!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short day, pretty country, sore knee

    8 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We had a very short day, the end of the mountain alternative. Almost all of the walk was either in a beech forest or along a ridge with views of the mountain pass we will go through tomorrow. We are in a nice pension with the best meal of the trip so far. Highlight was mussels in Idiazabal cheese sauce (a Basque cheese, one of my favorites).

    My right knee is complaining on the descents. I am doing some stretches, icing it, and taking ibuprofen Fingers crossed.

    Weather got very cloudy this afternoon but were hoping for a dry day.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Up and down and up and down

    7 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We had another day with huge (for us) elevation gain. My knees finally started to complain. So on arrival in the little town of Ormaiztegi I went first to the farmacia. Got some ibuprofen (the only thing in a pharmacy that is about 1/10th the price in the US, so how did I forget mine?) and I also got a very minimal elastic knee brace. Now sitting in our pretty basic pension with ice on it. Good time to write.

    Today’s walk was again filled with jaw-dropping views. Alun got pretty good at predicting when we would leave our ascent through the forest and emerge to a gorgeous mountain scene.

    We had our first problem with routing—we could see exactly where the camino went but hundreds of pine logs were stacked blocking the way. About 45 minutes and many nettle stings later, we finally emerged on the path again. Felt very triumphant!

    No rain in the forecast, that would make it three days in a row!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Sunny, beautiful and HARD walk

    6 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today we thought we had about 23 kms, turns out it was 26.5. But it wasn’t the distance, it was the ascents. About 1200 m elevation gain, seemed much tougher than yesterday.

    The weather was just glorious, sunny with occasional clouds and in the 60s. Mostly on mountain trails, all very well marked. The steady stream of unbelievable views was pretty great.

    Because of lack of accommodation, we had to detour 300 m down to a very pretty little village named Errezil. We have rooms in a nice guest house, Casa Letea,

    Tomorrow another 25 or so with more huge elevation gain, another 1000 or so. And lots of descent as well, which is awful on the knees. Another great weather forecast as well! No complaints from this very content Peregrina.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Nothing but rain

    5 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    Alun arrived last night, Gatwick to Biarritz to Hendaye and then walked across the bridge to Irun. Great to have a buddy, especially one with as great a sense of humor as Alun. I slept straight through the night and woke up at 6 to the sound of heavy rain. No point avoiding it, since it was projected to rain all day, so we headed out around seven after a coffee. It was a hard walk, sometimes having to walk up stony paths with just tons of water pouring down from the top. We took two bar stops for the best tasting and most warming cafés con leche I have ever had. People are very nice but think we are crazy. I, on the other hand can’t understand why everyone doesn’t love this like I do.

    We did get a few minutes of no rain and an occasional snippet of blue sky. We ran into an Irish guy headed to San Sebastián who was a bit confused, but he was the only other walker we saw. Other than that we just kept plodding up and down, up and down (GPS and other tracks tell me we had 1100 m elevation gain, and about 33 km, not an easy first day), but even in the rain it was beautiful.

    Arriving at the Hotel Ibiltze was like entering heaven. One hot shower, clothes washed, and all is well. Tomorrow we continue into the mountains for the first of a two-day mountain alternative. And no rain in the forecast!!!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Made it to Irun!

    4 de junio de 2019, España ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Four flights, a few hours sleep on the plane, and a 20 minute walk into town from the airport. In a couple of hours, I was able to mail two boxes, get my Spanish phone card, buy some fruit, yoghurt and nuts, wash my clothes, shower, and check the route out of town for tomorrow.

    That left me just enough time (kitchens close at around 3:40 or 4:00 ) to get a bus to Hondarribia for my first ensalada mixta of this camino. Pretty, little, and very touristy Basque town.

    I had my first (but surely not my last) GPS freakout. One minute all my tracks were there, and the next minute they were gone. Not sure what happened, but turning it off and on again did the trick!

    I stopped off at the Albergue to get my credential stamped and got some info on our camino. Everyone else is walking the Norte, which also starts here, and which I walked with Dana in 2006 and alone in 2017. So it’s time for a new Camino.

    Cannot wait to sleep. Alun should arrive within an hour and I will be holding my eyes open with toothpicks by then!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Ready to go

    2 de junio de 2019, Estados Unidos ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Hard to believe, but my trusty, 19 year old Mountainsmith Ghost pack (used on all but my very first camino in 2000) is packed and ready to go. I will leave tomorrow on the 10 am flight, with connections in Chicago, Philadelphia, Madrid and then my final destination San Sebastián. The San Sebastián airport is actually in Irún, which is convenient, because Irún is my starting point.

    If all goes well, on June 4, I will meet up with Alun in Pensión Bowling, and off we will go on June 5.

    The walk this year is some new, some familiar. First the new — the Vasco Interior (hopefully, we will be able to take a couple of mountain alternatives), then the Olvidado from Aguilar de Campoo (I have walked this route, but not since new mountain alternatives have been marked), and then the Invierno from Ponferrada.

    I know I am lucky to be able to do this once again, and I hope I will be able to walk without injury. You never know. My body is pretty used to these Camino beatings, but I know things can happen, so I leave with fingers crossed!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    One last day in Lisbon

    14 de mayo de 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Up at 4:30, and the hotel was nice enough to give us coffee and some pastries. Our 7 am flight got into Lisbon right on time, and so we had one last day here. My big challenge for the day was distributing the weight and trying to pack the olive oil carefully, fingers crossed there are no broken bottles!

    Things have changed a lot in the ten days we were gone — temps are in mid-high 80s, the number of tourists has at least tripled, water is flowing in all the fountains, trees are flowering, and the beautiful Rossio train station has emerged from all of its scaffolding. We were going to have a fancy dinner, but I am so sick of eating in restaurants that I convinced Joe that we would be better off at our local neighborhood fresh-grilled-fish-for-12 € place.

    Home tomorrow!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Sunny Sunday in Angra

    12 de mayo de 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I picked this hotel because of its fitness center but the view would have also been a perfect reason. This morning, reception helped make some more contacts about my iPad and depending on whom you speak to, it’s either already here at the airport or about to arrive late today. In any event, tomorrow we will rent a car to take a spin around the island, and the airport will be one of our early stops. Fingers crossed!!!

    We spent the day walking. Through the old town, up to a spectacular viewing spot, to the harbor, through beautiful municipal gardens, lunch in the best restaurant we’ve eaten in on the islands (we will be back), and then another climb up to the 15th century castle guarding the harbor. UNESCO’s designation as a world heritage site was spot on. It’s just really beautiful.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Today's adventure

    11 de mayo de 2019, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    The flight was canceled yesterday, as we had expected. So we spent the night in a hotel on the waterfront. This morning, a bus brought us back to the airport. The winds are too bad for a plane to land, so we are moving on to Plan B (or is it C?).

    A bus took us back to the waterfront. We got on the ferry to the island of Faial, where the winds are better. The ride over was awful, lots of people throwing up.

    At the harbor, I followed the explicit instructions— there will be two buses. Get on the one for the airport. I asked, Driver said yes. We got on. Turns out it was the wrong bus, only going to the airport four hours later. Thankfully our now dear friend Pedro, who spoke excellent English, had also gotten on the wrong bus. A cab was sent straight away and we arrived at the airport as the plane was boarding. A 30 seat prop jet. BUMPY flight.

    But that’s not the end of the drama. I left my iPad charging in the Pico airport. Everyone wanted to help, passengers and crew. The iPad has been found and will either be sent to Terceira or back to Lisbon.

    As we got on the plane the other nine passengers applauded. The pilot had told them that the only reason the airlines had concocted this crazy scheme was because there were two Americans on the flight. Otherwise everyone would still be back on Pico waiting for the wind to die down. Crazy.

    Pedro helped me fill out the form for the lost iPad and then took us straight to our hotel. You can see view from the balcony of our room.

    Can’t believe we made it. Now to enjoy Angra do Heroísmo.    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Travel day (or not)

    10 de mayo de 2019, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Not much going on today except a visit to the wine museum and one last (we hope) walk along the lava beds on the coast. The wine museum explained how the people of the island brought soil over from a nearby island, cracked open the lava beds, and put soil in the cracks.

    Astonishingly (at least to me), the vines grew and have thrived. And the vineyrds themselves are a UNESCO world heritage site — rock walls built by hand hundreds of years ago making a huge number of tiny enclosures to protect the vines (which grow vertically on the soil so they sort of look like pumpkin vines). The wine museum says that if you took all the rock walls and extended them in one straight line, there would be enough to circle the equator twice. That’s a lot of backbreaking rock wall work!

    We got to the airport with quite a bit of trepidation because it is very very windy. As for now, our flight to Terceira Island is scheduled to go, but the ticket agent told us not to bet on it. And tomorrow and Sunday are supposed to have higher winds. If we can’t get off the island till Monday, we will probably just go straight to Lisbon and forget about the lovely isle of Terceira. Our flight leaves Lisbon on Wednesday. Maybe it was not such a smart idea to pre-pay our hotel. :-). But if we are stuck here on Pico, the airline will put us up, provide transportation, and feed us. That’s very nice, but I would really rather leave!    Leer más

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  • Laurie ReynoldsBack to Lisbon, 2019Laurie Reynolds

    Whales!

    9 de mayo de 2019, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today we visited the north side of the island, just as beautiful as the south. We went to a second whaling museum, this one located in the old factory where the whale was turned into oil, vitamins, flour, and manure — all in one place. Post-industrial fabulous. The only parts of the whale that were not used were its heart and intestines. Those were rowed out to sea and dumped in the ocean, but they inevitably wound their way back to shore, bringing a huge stink with them.

    But the afternoon was for the real whales — we saw a bunch of sperm whales, whose tails flip up when they dive and it is beautiful. And the dolphins, must have been about 30 dolphins all leaping in unison. It was really something. And I now have an answer to the question — When was the last time you did something for the first time?

    I did not bother to try to catch fleeting glimpses of whales and porpoises with my phone camera. Much more enjoyable to just watch.    Leer más

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