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Laurie Reynolds
Laurie Reynolds

Laurie Reynolds

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Downtown Rio

    11 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We had a vague plan when we left this morning. First stop, the Museu do Arte do Rio, in an old train station, Interesting collection, fun to visit, and with a great view from the sixth floor rooftop! Across the praça is the futuristic waterfront Museu de Amanha (Museum of Tomorrow). We didn’t visit it but really enjoyed walking around and getting the views of the port, Niteroi across the bay, etc.

    Joe remembered good lunches in the Cafe do Colombo, where we headed for lunch, getting lost and ultimately hopping in a cab. Belle Epoque, this place used to be for the upper crust, but is very democratic nowadays. Really lovely, with three different floors of different kinds of service. We took the top floor — better food and nicer surroundings.

    From there we walked to the National Library where Joe spent many many hours doing research way back when. It was a nice trip down memory lane. Across the street is the over the top Municipal Theater, built in the early 1900s in four years of non-stop building and cost overruns. The total price, ten times the projected cost, constituted 2% of the GNP for one year. But it is gorgeous — nothing built in Brazil, evry single thing was imported from Europe in pieces and then assembled on site. Stained glass from Germany, marble from Italy, etc etc.

    Time is flying — we have only two more full days and then a long haul back to the midwest.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Back in full tourist mode

    10 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Last night I was once again mistaken for the women’s soccer coach. I looked her up and see that she was a very controversial hire and has not done anything good for the Brazilian team. Currently ranked number 10, that is their lowest ranking ever. Not a great doppleganger to have!

    Joe felt much better this morning, so we decided to head for Corcovado. The weather shows clouds and possible showers later in the week, so decided that though the morning was a bit hazy, we should carpe diem. Probably everyone has seen the statue of Christ the Redeemer way up on the top of a huge rock. The cog railway took more than a half hour to get up there, through jungle type forest. We spent about an hour up there looking around, walking through some paths from one view to the other, really a highlight of any trip to Rio.

    Unfortunately the Primitive Art museum we thought was right up the hill has closed, so on to Plan B. The Botanical Gardens. As is usually our experience, especially in small tourist venues, the café/restaurante in these places tend to be just fine. And this was no exception, a really nice, cool spot with decent food. Lots of orchids, 150 year old palm trees, jacarandá trees, you get the picture. Very pleasant, good recommendation Katy!

    Tomorrow we will probably head downtown to some more serious touristic visits — palaces, churches, monasteries and stuff like that.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Sugar Loaf and being a beach bum

    9 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Joe’s rich pasta dish last night must have not been the best choice, or maybe the tap water did it, but for whatever reason, we had a very late morning start. I took advantage and walked a few miles up and down the beach, and by 11 or so we were on our way to the “bondinho” (cable car) up to Sugar Loaf Mountain. It is a big piece of rock jutting out of the water, with amazing views. Getting there involves a stop on an intermediary rock, about half as high as Sugar Loaf itself. The views at every turn were pretty amazing, but I have to say I was left wishing I could have seen the bays and coves and mountains before all the high rise building.

    After a lunch in a beach café, I was once again left to entertain myself for a few hours, and this time I spent a good chunk of post-elliptical time sitting on the roof of our hotel in a beach chair next to the pool with views over the ocean below. Yes, very uncharacteristic of me to sit and do nothing, but it was relaxing, I will admit. Not sure about dinner tonight, that will depend on Joe’s stomach.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    On to Rio

    8 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We sadly said goodbye to dear daughter, who is staying another day in Sao Paulo to see friends, and hopped on a short flight to Rio. At the airport, a group of about 5 was obviously talking about me, and 2 took my picture. I guess this is as close to famous as I will ever be — my son told me I should put on a Brazil selection shirt or jacket and then see how I get the royal treatment. :-)

    Uber has flooded the Rio airport. There are special signs pointing you down the Uber path, and a meeting point with about 20 parking spots. Three Uber employees direct traffic, announce arrivals of drivers, and call for passengers. The fare into town was about $10, compared to $50 in a cab. As you might imagine, there was nothing going on at the taxi stands.

    Our hotel is right on the beach named Leme, the so-called “quiet family zone.” We’re on the 15th floor with a pretty decent side view (I guess you pay more for a beach-facing view, but at least we are not in the back!). We have eaten, walked, and worked out (LifeFitness elliptical, woo hoo!), and it is night. The roof-top pool has a restaurant with great views. I assume the food is bad and overpriced, but we may just go ahead and splurge tonight.

    Since we have lost our tour guide, we will have to start reading up on the sights and planning a few days’ worth of activities. The one thing I was sure to do was book a feijoada in the Copacabana Palace for Saturday. Feijoada on Saturday is a Brazilian tradition and the one we had there 30 years ago was pretty good!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Parks and Markets

    7 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Well, last night someone came up to me in a restaurant and asked if he could take a picture with me. He thought I was the Brazilian women’s soccer team coach. My kids think we are dopplegangers, I think it’s just two old ladies with white hair.

    We spent a lot of the day in Ibirapuera Park, just walking and watching all the people. It’s huge and on weekends just busting with all kinds of people. A few minutes in the Modern Art Museum, and then off to a food/antiques/crafts market. And since the big Avenida Paulista (two blocks from our hotel) was closed to car traffic all day, Katy and I spent a couple more hours walking up and down.

    Our last Sao Paulo meal together is tonight, and then Joe and I head alone to Rio in the morning. I am going to really miss having Katy with us, we have had such a great time.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds
    1

    USP and MASP (oospee and maspee)

    6 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was the trip to the university. That’s where Katy’s school, Joe’s department, and my institute were. We made it to the first two (my choice).

    After all the visits we headed to the main art museum. Paintings are displayed in rows of “glass easels.” Kind of disconcerting at first because all the info about the painting is stuck on the back of it. Goya, Velazquez , Bosch, and Van Gogh were just some of the many masters displayed.

    Since last night we had a pizza that we could never hope to beat (unless it were S-I-L Ben’s) at a really lovely restaurant named Veridiana (think Buñuel), we are going to scout for something different tonight.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    All over town

    5 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another cloudy drizzly day. We decided to go to the Oscar Americano Foundation, the estate of a business magnate who donated his modernist home to the city for preservation as a garden and museum. We had been there years ago when my mom visited us in Sao Paulo. I remember an elaborate British tea, which we didn’t have today because we had our eyes set on a traditional Sao Paulo “lanchonete.”

    After a couple of hours walking around the garden and museum, we did stop in the café for some pao de queijo. If you’ve never had it, you are missing out!

    Our trip to the lanchonete took us to a burger joint, so we opted for the Dib Lebanese restaurant next door. Delicious, once again.

    Final stop of the day, the Afro-Brazilian museum, a slightly confusing collection but lots of really intresting historical and artistic material.

    Dinner is likely to be pizza, maybe back to our neighborhood and the now very trendy Pizzaria Margherita.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    Cold and cloudy but a fun day

    4 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Katy arrived this morning, just as we were going into a late breakfast. Once she was all settled, we headed out to walk for several hours, back to our old apartment. This time the “zelador” (caretaker) was there and let us in to walk around a bit. From there, through the fancy neighborhood called the Jardins (gardens). The biggest difference I noticed from 30 years ago was that all the jagged glass that used to be on the top of the 20’ walls had been replaced with electronic alarm systems. A slightly better aesthetic. On the way to the lunch place, we got within a few feet of a Lamborghini, the closest I will probably ever get, even though there was bullet-proof glass between us.

    We met one of Joe’s old Brazilianist friends for a big and long lunch. After that, an Uber to the Pinacoteca, the state museum of Brazilian art. Though I had only heard of one of the painters, Tarsila do Amaral, I saw a lot of works I liked very much.

    We ended the day with dinner at Arabia, one of three or four of the top Lebanese restaurants in Sao Paulo. Absolutely delicious.

    It’s good having Katy along, because not only does she choose all the food, she also is our trip planner. So I can just go to sleep and forget about looking at the guidebook.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds
    11

    Back in Sao Paulo

    3 сентября 2019 г., Бразилия ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Our flight was 90 minutes late, which was actually not such a bad thing, since we could sleep a little more than if we had left at 7. There is a new spiffy and very large international terminal at the Sao Paulo airport, but it only took us about a half hour to get off the plane, through customs and to the taxi stand. Then it was another 90 minutes to cover the 15 miles to our hotel. Traffic here is what you would expect in a city of 18 million!

    After the necessary trip to the elliptical, we went out walking around towards our old neighborhood. Joe may not be very good with directions, but he can find a book store he hasn’t been in in 30 years. Our visit there got prolonged by the heavy downpours, which also was the reason for a long stop in Starbucks! By early evening, the rain was no longer torrential, but the streets were like rivers. We navigated back to our old neighborhood and saw that the very same swing our 4 year old David fell off was still there! Not a terribly happy memory, since it caused a slight skull fracture, days in the hospital, and lots of anxiety, but I was surprised it hadn’t moved an inch or changed color.

    We ended the day with a dinner at an old neighborhood favorite, Losteria do Piero, and well, let’s just say the memories should have been left untouched. Not a bad meal by any means, but the agriao (water cress) salad had fallen many notches. The pasta was still good, but I had been dreaming about that agriao salad!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsMatando saudades in BrazilLaurie Reynolds

    In the Dallas Airport

    2 сентября 2019 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 34 °C

    Oh, this (relatively new) American flight from Champaign to Dallas is great. Quick, no mess with O´Hare, and we get to Dallas in time to make lots of international connections. Today’s will be to Sao Paulo. Since Joe’s tenure as a Brazilian historian goes back about 50 years, we decided it was time for what might be “one last trip” to see friends, re-visit old haunts, etc. So we will spend five nights in Sao Paulo, 6 in Rio.

    Since our society seems to know no limits in its relentless quest to distinguish people on the basis of status, American is opening “flagship lounges” in its major airports. That means that the Admirals Club has become a club for the masses, and the flagship lounge is for the cream. I am not really complaining, though, because even though I am wearing my old jeans and my beloved Altra shoes that walked 800 kms this summer in Spain, my boarding pass lets me in. :-). I will say, though, that although this club surpasses my former favorite of the Iberia lounge in Madrid, the Iberia lounge still has a leg up on this place because it has a dark room with beds. On our return, we will arrive at 5 am, with our connection at 10 am, and that amenity would have been quite nice.

    And finally, in another nod to total slothiness, I used miles to buy upgrades. That means we will lie FLAT on this overnight trip. How great is that?! And since the time change is only two hours, we should not have all the zonking discombobulation that you get when you fly to Europe.

    Though I have to admit, Brazil is not my favorite travel destination, I am looking forward to these two weeks. Our daughter is coming to spend the first five days with us, so that will be really fun. And six nights in Rio, well, that can’t be bad.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    My great stroke of luck

    6 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The Pórtico de la Gloria is one of the world’s most beautiful pieces of Romanesque. It has been undergoing restoration for years. Before the restoration, you could just walk up and admire it (it is the original Romanesque facade of the cathedral). There is a big baroque facade in front of it, and for some unknown reason, the Baroque builders left it in place rather than knock it down.

    The renovations are done and now there is limited access and that just makes it more in demand. Tickets were sold out for weeks but today I just walked over to see if by chance any had become available. Well, lucky me, the new head of the museum, Inma, is someone I know from years ago when I volunteered in the pilgrims office. So I got in. It is amazing, just amazing. Best way ever to end a day in Santiago.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    11

    In Santiago, done walking!

    6 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    It was an easy quick stroll into Santiago. 4 km up to the Albergue, then another 17 going up and down till we got to a spot where we could see the cathedral.

    This Camino passes over the tracks near the spot where there was a horrific train accident when the driver took the curve too fast. Lots of makeshift memorials, now several years old, but it always gives pause.

    Arriving at the cathedral was somewhat euphoric, somewhat flat, somewhat sad. Hard to explain. but it was the first time in many years that the cathedral was without scaffolding!

    Now I’ll have a day to revisit some of the places I love, all the while resisting the urge to start planning next year’s camino. But it will be my 70th birthday year, so I will have to do something special!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    One more day

    5 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Since I was leaving so early, the hotel staff left me breakfast in a sitting room. They even hauled up a microwave and toaster so I could have hot coffee and toasted bread!

    These last days are not the most spectacular scenery, but it was really nice in a few spots. There’s a medieval bridge, an 11C church with Samson killing the lion, a couple of really nice panoramic views, all in all a good pilgrim day!

    I was going to head to the Albergue but in the end opted to stop four kms sooner. That means tomorrow starts with a 4 km climb, but I would have had to carry up some food since there’s nothing else up there.

    So here I am in the pension where I’ve stayed a couple of times. The woman recognized me, maybe there aren’t too many white haired ladies walking in these parts.

    Tomorrow, just a short 21 km to Santiago!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Celebrating the 4th in Bendoiro

    4 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    I have walked past a 17th century stone Pazo (estate) turned hotel many times and have always been tempted. This year, since I would be walking by on the 4th of July, it seemed like a good year to yield to the temptation. The Pazo de Bendoiro was willing to take me in, http://www.pazodebendoiro.com and the rate was really pretty good. it’s a big estate and there are beautiful gardens and patios for just vegging our. A good choice!

    The walk was a good mix of rural, forests, dairy farms, small hamlets, one big town with its glorious river walk, and then four kms through a typically ugly industrial park. I had a really nice conversation with a woman tending her spectacular vegetable garden. She rarely buys any at all, the plot has things growing all year!

    By 1 pm I was checking in after walking 29 km. I think the thought of a bit of luxury put some pep in my step. Luxurious sheets, thick towels, wow.

    So I am about 50 km from Santiago. Since I didn’t walk into Santiago last year for lack of time, I am really looking forward to it. TWO DAYS!!!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    The home stretch

    3 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today’s 29 kms sort of sailed by. I passed two old stone boxes of alms for the souls in purgatory, but no donations have been dropped in the rusty box for ages.

    It was a pretty, rural walk except for the 6 interminable kms right below a huge line of windmills. Thankfully they weren’t operating, because otherwise you are walking to the rhythm of an annoying flap, flap, flap.

    I had a climb up to the “spiritual center” of Galicia, with its chapel, stations of the cross, and views to all four provinces of Galicia. Unfortunately for me, the cloud cover obscured some of the view, but it had made for much cooler walking on those 1200 feet of ascent.

    I’ve finally met some people, and I am also finding that there will be a lot of people I know in Santiago. It will be nice to have Sunday there to hang out and do one or two of the many tourist things I’ve done so often but always enjoy.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Short and gorgeous

    2 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    My choice was 14 km or 41 kms. I’ve done a bunch of 40+ stages this year but I am in the home stretch and am winding down. So I opted for short.

    I didn’t set the alarm this morning and was surprised that I slept till about 7:15! That’s not a camino timetable. But with such a short day it didn’t really matter. I lounged around in my room and made TWO cups of (bad instant) coffee and set out about an hour later.

    The day was really quite beautiful. First to an XI century church with some of my favorite Romanesque carvings—two sweet little cow heads over the side door.

    From there it’s a few km down on Roman road to the river. Believe me, the excitement over walking on a real Roman Road wears off quickly when it’s a steep descent and when the wear and tear of more than 2,000 years has turned the road into a rocky mess. But arriving at the Miño River is magical. So beautiful.

    From there up the other side of the river, short and steep through beautiful vineyards with several beautiful wineries with outdoor terraces. From the top it’s a pretty straight shot into the destination, a small city named Chantada, where the Hotel Mogay had a room with my name on it.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Very beautiful day

    1 июля 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    By adding a gorgeous 6 km loop to the walk I was able to get the kms up to a respectable 24. It was such a pretty day. First through some small hamlets with lots of interludes on narrow cart tracks squeezed in between two ancient stone walls.

    And then this loop—two Romanesque churches, lots of vineyards, and views of an iconic oxbow loop in the Miño.

    But the part of the day that brought the biggest smile was when I checked into my casa rural and asked if by any chance they had found the credencial of a friend who was here several weeks ago. Answer was yes and we all jumped for joy. And my friend is also pretty happy, she had all but given up.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    To Monforte de Lemos

    30 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    I think today’s walk was in the 32 km/20 mile range. I left early because of the heat forecast, but soon saw once again that weather forecasting is pretty imprecise. Instead of sunny, hot, and 90s, I had overcast and 70s most of the walk. Not complaining , mind you, but it does mean I didn’t have to leave my Hostal at 6 a.m.

    The walk wasn’t exactly spectacular, though mostly pleasant enough. Three ascents and their corresponding descents, mainly through pine forests, but some beautiful old growth as well. Only an occasional smattering of eucalyptus.

    A few kms outside of town, I ran into my first pilgrim!!! An Italian doctor, living in Canarias, who had just taken a fall in the notorious wet stony stretch. Everyone keeps saying this Camino is taking off, but I just haven’t seen anyone!!

    By 2, I was in my room washing clothes. I had a good menu del dia. A nice walk around the old town and up to the parador, and now getting ready for my typical 8 pm bedtime!

    Hard to believe I am not too far from Santiago.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    28 km along the Sil River

    29 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    This was a beautiful day. I left right at 6 to try to get a big chunk in before it got too hot (temperature highs are in mid to high 90s these days). I was really lucky because for the first four hours I had almost no direct sun because of the mountains. So much of today is high above or right along the Sil River. There were several little villages, some with rehabilitation of old houses going on. No bars but enough fountains, so the water bottles kept getting refilled.

    At about 8 km, after a pretty tough descent to the river level, I saw an old man walking toward me. I took a chance — es Ud. Casimiro? Turns out it was the now 92 year old Casimiro. He lives in a house by the river, where he operated the mill till the 1960s to grind all the grain from the area. No more grain grown here. He also told me how in his youth he walked to Northern Portugal to buy cattle at a better price. No more herds here either. His wife died several months ago, he told me, and his two sons are now insisting he move to Madrid. No way will that happen, he assured me. 😁 He invited me in for a coffee and I would have loved to continue the conversation, but with mid 90s coming my way I declined. One of those sad decisions that I felt I had to make. He told me to tell all my friends to come visit him.

    All in all a great day—lots of snippets of conversations with people working in the fields, out for a walk, or renovating an old family home.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    When 16 km seems short

    28 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    This is one of the shortest days I’ve ever walked on any camino (and I think this is camino number 19 for me!). It’s just hard to find anything but a 42 km alternative, and though I have done stages that long this year, the heat advisory gave me pause.

    So I left much later than usual, with a 7 AM breakfast in my hostal. Say what you will about the bathrooms, the breakfast was delicious. Fresh squeezed orange juice, lots of fruit, yogurt, and of course toast with butter and jam. And a very respectable café con leche. Way beyond the norm for a €20 room.

    Even with this late departure, I was still in A Rua before 10 AM. That gave me two hours till I could take off my pack and check into my hotel. So I decided to walk down to the Riverwalk at the edge of town I went to the ayuntamiento and got some information for our Invierno guide, which we update every year.

    I am in a cute little place above a good restaurant, so IWill be well fed for sure. It looks like the temperature May be decreasing some, so a 28 or 29 Kilometer day tomorrow should be fine.

    But first it’s time to enjoy the watermelon I carried up the hill to my hotel!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    The heat is coming

    27 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    I had either 28 or 36 kms today with forecasts for low 90s (high 90s tomorrow😲). So I left right at sunrise, 6:30, and within a few hours, I had left León y Castilla and entered Galicia. A huge dog that barked wildly at me the last time I passed has mellowed a lot, surely a sign that there are lots more pilgrims passing.

    I met up with various groups of morning walkers—the path was nice soft dirt with views of the beautiful Sil River (except for the parts marred by one industrial installation or another).

    About 10 km in, I noticed a small tear in the fabric covering of one of my shoes. That sealed the deal-I would stop at km 28 (where there was a shoe repair) rather that 36 (where there wasn’t). This complicates my life, since that means that I am pretty much stuck with an extremely short day tomorrow, which would not be my first choice. Oh well.

    Arriving in O Barco, I went straight to the shoe repair store. 10 minutes later and 2€ poorer, I left with my shoes stitched and the zipper on my fanny pack repaired. I am staying in a “recently renovated” Pension, which has fresh paint on the walls but a bathroom that looks like it pre-dates the Reconquest.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    To Las Medulas

    26 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Great day, not too hot (yet), and lots of really nice paths, through vineyards, fruit orchards, or forests.

    It’s a stiff ascent to the little town of Villavieja, and the other two times I have walked it, there were great views of the castle of Cornatel, perched on a cliff and looking impregnable. But today it was covered in fog.

    Villavieja is the little town where the serfs who worked in the castle lived. Today it’s a pretty little hamlet with an albergue and some casas rurales. From there to the (closed) castle is a short ascent.

    When I got to the town of Borrenes, I decided to take an alternative path up to Las Médulas. My camino pal Amancio had recommended it, and it was a good recommendation. A bit harder, more ascent, but it takes you straight to the iconic overlook and then down to town. Now I don’t have to spend my post-lunch hours walking up there!

    These weird rick formations, btw, are what’s left after the Romans built a complicated channel system and pumped water through to blow up the mountain and disgorge the gold.

    Hands down my favorite tree is the chestnut, and this area is chock full of them. Life keeps springing out of dead trunks, it seems like a metaphor.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Back to Ponferrada

    25 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    I had a really tough but almost always enjoyable walk today up to Peñalba De Santiago, one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. It’s tucked way up in the mountains and has been inhabited since the tenth century when the hermit saint Genadio set up some caves for hermits. The walk was very remote and I even walked in some of the channels made by the Romans to get water over to the hills with gold nearby. I got there just in time for a very interesting visit to the 10th century church. After walking around, I pondered my situation.

    My plans were to stay in Peñalba tonight and then take a more remote path tomorrow to connect to the Camino Invierno.

    But three things made me change my mind. First I had had no cell service almost the whole way and tomorrow would be no better. Second, I had inexplicably forgotten to download tracks for tomorrow on my GPS. And third, even though I was able to get offline tracks onto my phone, the battery would have died about half way through.

    Now I love a challenge as much as the next guy, but this seemed stupid. So a very nice couple from Madrid drove me back to Ponferrada. And I will start the Invierno tomorrow from the proper place.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Into Ponferrada

    24 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    This walk turned out to be a lot longer than I thought —another 30 km somehow. It must have been the tracks I followed, since I was taking a “cheating walk” rather than following the official Camino Olvidado to the end.

    The first cheating was when the arrows pointed me up to a sanctuary high above the reservoir. Since I was walking in pea soup and since the church is relatively modern, (why walk an extra km or two to see a modern church?!) I just shaved a km or two of ascent off the day. The rest of the day was foggy and humid but good walking weather. No particularly stunning scenery —over and around a dam/reservoir and through a couple of pine forests.

    At one point my GPS was taking me through some really overgrown mess and I saw a track going up and heard voices up there. So I thought that was the better option. Sure enough there was a group of cyclists with diabetes doing a Spain-Germany cycle. They pointed me in the right direction and within a few hours I was in Ponferrada.

    Soon after I arrived, it started to rain —lucky me to have missed it all on the walk. Doing a little legal work this afternoon, and I’ll then meet up with some others who are going to walk the Camino Invierno too.    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds
    1

    In the rain to Cobrana

    23 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    33 kms all on dirt or stone paths with lots of ups and downs but nothing too steep— should have been a dream walk, and it was for the first hour or so. No spectacular scenery but very pleasantly rural. Then the rain started and I had to whip out the rain poncho. When you walk in the rain, at first it is unpleasant because everything starts getting wet. First your pants legs, then your socks. Then you start to sweat so the inside of the poncho gets wet. Then, the worst—your shoes are soaked and you are walking in a puddle. Squish squish squish. But then it doesn’t get any worse and it becomes your new normal, so you just keep walking.

    About ten kms from my destination, I passed the first open bar of the day. The owner was very tolerant of my drowned rat condition and very eager to talk about this new camino. One good strong cafe con leche and a few churros later, the rain stopped and out I went. But of course it soon started raining again —which really didn’t matter since I was still pretty wet.

    The little casa rural in Cobrana gives pilgrim prices. And the woman in the bar brought up a bowl of paella and some hard boiled eggs with tuna and red peppers — I doubt I’ll be able to finish it even though it will be my supper too!    Читать далее

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  • Laurie ReynoldsCamino 2019, From IrúnLaurie Reynolds

    Campo de Santiago

    22 июня 2019 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Today I passed through the battlefield where St. James the Moorslayer (the non-pc alter ego of StJames the pilgrim) came back to life during the Reconquest and killed tens of thousands of Moors . Despite that awful image, it’s a beautiful spot.

    I left Vegarienza very early because my plan was to combine two short days into one and to split it up with a visit to Rosi, the woman who runs the Albergue in the middle. I wound up spending two hours there catching up. Five years ago, things were touch and go when I walked through. Now, the family is doing great. It was a really nice visit.

    But it did make for a very long 38 km day. And the big ascent came right after my visit with Rosi. I should have been rested but it was hard. By 4:30, though, after a Kas Limón break in the town with the longest name in all of Spain, I was checking into the Albergue. It’s very nice —lots of hot water and real sheets. That’s albergue luxury.

    And the restaurant across the street is making me an ensalada mixta and some fried eggs so I will be happy and full in a few minutes.    Читать далее

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