K’Gari (Fraser Island)

In 1836, Eliza and her husband James Fraser were shipwrecked when their brig, Stirling Castle, ran aground near the coast of what’s now K’gari. The local Butchulla people offered help, but James, scared and mistrustful of the Aborigines, accepted it too late and died soon after. Eliza survived with their assistance and was eventually brought back to the mainland.

Now a widow with no way to earn money, she began selling her story. At first it was factual, but over time she sensationalised it — turning a story of survival into one of abduction and torture. The embellished version spread quickly, portraying the Aborigines as barbaric, cannibalistic savages. Ironically, the island ended up bearing her and her husband’s name.

After years of petitions by the Butchulla people, the island finally regained its original name: K’gari (pronounced “GUR-ree”), meaning “paradise” in the Butchulla language. The change became official in 2023, though some still prefer the old name.

K’gari is where I would spend the next three days — on a swag tour.

After a quick info talk the night before, our group of 14 got picked up in two Toyota Landcruisers by our guide, Ash — a fun, knowledgeable Aussie who made the tour genuinely enjoyable.

The two-hour drive from Noosa to Rainbow Beach led us to the ferry to K’gari. The mostly empty ferry left without us the moment we arrived — cheers, mate. So we spent an hour on Rainbow Beach, which isn’t exactly the worst place to be stuck.

Once on the island, we drove straight to Lake Wabby. Along the wide beach, a guy in oncoming traffic sped through a flock of birds, killing two young ones. Everyone is told before setting foot on K’gari that wildlife must be protected at all cost. His actions could’ve meant a $10,000 fine — hopefully he was reported.

We reached the lake after a 40-minute hike in the midday heat. At first, we weren’t sure we were in the right place — after climbing the huge sand dunes, there was no water in sight. We followed footprints and finally found the green, murky lake — and a cloud of sandflies. Damn, they were relentless, stabbing every bit of exposed skin. After the tenth bite, you start wishing they’d find someone tastier. 😅

I went for a swim with the others, though they soon had enough, sunbathed for a while, and then they decided it was time to head back for beers. We’d barely had time to take in the scenery. I was still in the lake, struggling to gather my stuff, still hoping to snap a decent photo. The others just left without a second glance or consideration. Being alone on K’gari isn‘t recommended/allowed. K’gari is dingo country, and you’re supposed to stay in groups of at least three or four. Our group wasn’t exactly big on rules…

We arrived at camp (dingo-safe, fenced off) in the late afternoon, had a quick briefing, and a few of us made dinner — overcooked pasta, but good sauce.

Afternoons and evenings mostly revolved around drinking, smoking, and loud music. The smoking especially drove me away a lot; the smokers refused to move, so the rest of us got to enjoy passive smoking. It seemed as if no one else (apart from one guy) was bothered by it. I hadn’t come here for party but for nature, photography, and the joys of camping, so it got a rather lonely at times. Still, I tried to make the best of it and occasionally spent some time with two girls as soon as there was a short-lived smoke-free moment.

The swag tents looked basic, and the porta-potties set a low bar — other groups in the same camp had far better ones, as we found out after wandering in through the wrong gate. But the swags were surprisingly comfy! You couldn’t sit up, they were barely body-length, yet I slept better than I had in months. Probably because there’s no reception on K’gari. It’s kind of scary how much technology messes with your sleep. Changes will be made. I hope. 😅Lue lisää