• Monique and Gary Weisman
  • Monique and Gary Weisman

Hokkaido 2023

Our first trip to Japan. We're taking a bike tour with friends from Hawaii and Michigan. Read more
  • Trip start
    September 28, 2023

    Haneda Airport

    September 28, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    We had a smooth flight to Haneda on a Boeing Dreamliner 787 with JAL. The food and service were excellent. The bathrooms were so roomy and fancy, complete with a bidet and a full-length mirror, that I had to take pictures. Our seat neighbor was a very cute boy 21 months old who was so happy and loved to laugh out loud. There were also two babies directly behind us who wailed in unison. We're enjoying curry bowls as we wait for our connecting flight to Chitose.Read more

  • Humidity

    September 29, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Anyone who knows me, knows I easily get cold. I'm not one of those people who's relieved to find an air conditioned spot. Well, in Tokyo I AM that person. It started with my curry bowl, and the sweating hasn't ceased. Our connecting flight is delayed. I'm tired, I'm hot, and I can't sit still. Ripping off my compression socks, jumping in the shower, and sinking into cool sheets cannot come soon enough!Read more

  • Herding Cats

    September 30, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌨 64 °F

    Getting 18 people out the door is no easy feat. We had a late meal and good night's rest after arriving in Chitose Friday night. Saturday breakfast was another smorgasbord of fish, rice, potato salad, and pickled condiments. In preparation for our first ride, the group gathered in the hotel parking lot and proceeded with an impromptu session of standing yoga poses before folding ourselves into two vans with limited legroom to be transported to the bikes 40 minutes away to Sapporo city limits.

    When we arrived, bikes were distributed, and we spent the next hour adjusting seat heights and moving gears around to accommodate our individual needs. Then we rode exactly one block to a convenience store where we created a long line for the bathroom, marveled that an electrolyte drink would be called Sweat (and looked like it too), and bought snack bars for extra sustenance. Gary got spaghetti. It was nearly lunchtime when we started our ride.
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  • "Shakeout" Bike Ride in Sapporo

    September 30, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Fall colors are not in full bloom yet, but some winked at us as we tested our wheels on a long bike path in the city of Sapporo banked by trees. A small area under a bridge showed off a series of square patches filled with flowers.

    The last photo shows a couple of guys in our group when we crossed over train tracks by walking our bikes up and over a bridge and back down the other side. Gary was tempted to ride his bike down the ramp, but thank goodness he resisted the impulse, and there were no mishaps!
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  • Hokkaido Ramen

    September 30, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Yummy lunch of ramen and gyoza Hokkaido style. The noodles were fluffy and fresh, the broth unbelievably tasty. The lunch counter was packed, but the workers did their thing, got the food out quickly, and made it look effortless. We were happy.Read more

  • The Wildlife Hotel

    September 30, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    After lunch, we drove 3 hours into the mountains to Biei in Kamakawa-gun where the temperatures are cooler. There was reshuffling of seats as everyone jockeyed for leg space. We laughed the entire ride, chatting about our aches and pains. One of our guys is Cramp Man, because his muscles seize up from not getting enough electrolytes and not being able to stretch his legs enough on the bike. His Thera-gun eventually came out of its case, and we each took a turn soothing whatever tight spot we had with it. It was so good. I decided Ima get one when I get home!

    When we arrived at our ryokan, we were greeted first by a cute little mouse scurrying behind umbrellas in the lobby, then as we encouraged it back out through the front sliding doors, a beautiful red fox made an appearance and hung around waiting for food scraps. In our room, we were welcomed by a beetle and traditional tatami mats. A kaiseki spread of crab, shrimp, scallop, meat in a simmering stew, tofu, egg, a whole variety of pickles, plenty rice, and a mildly-flavored sponge cake roll for dessert welcomed us in the dining room.
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  • Our First Ever Onsen

    October 1, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Other people in our party were in the know and wore their robes and slippers to dinner last night. Not only were we clueless that people hang out all over the hotel in their robes (possibly with nothing on underneath 🫢), but we had no idea what the protocol is for visiting and using the onsen. We were too tired after dinner to find out. But this morning, we gave it a whirl. Sitting in an outdoor onsen is quite lovely, innit?Read more

  • Perfection...'Til It's Not

    October 1, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    By the end of our spectacular downhill ride, the clouds started to gather darkly, being lit up intermittently with bright flashes that were followed by low rumbles. As the wind picked up, it was clearly escorting the once distant storm to our doorstep. We headed to town to seek cover, but again, it's not so easy to quickly get 16 riders at different paces on the same page, even when we're all witnessing the coming storm. At literally the very last moment, we found a place to stash our bikes, avoid getting drenched, and felt slightly more protected from the loud thunder claps that made us jump.

    Since hopping on the bikes, there have been a number of glitches in their performance. On day one, the motor on Gary's e-bike stopped working and hasn't been functional since. Others have experienced dropped chains, all varieties of squeaks, a broken gear shifter, and worst of all, handlebars that malfunctioned (jerked violently to one side), causing the rider to crash into the bushes. After the storm passed, Gary and I, along with another couple and one of the guides, decided to ride back up the long downhill stretch we'd completed in the morning to return to the ryokan while others were shuttled back in a van in small groups after shopping in town. Gary and I borrowed the e-bikes of other riders and were prepared to fly up the hill based on our experience in Greece. Well, let me tell you, these bikes are far different from the ones we had in Greece. As expected, Gary did zoom ahead, but I huffed and puffed and still couldn't keep up with anyone despite maxing out the pedal assist at level 5. Meanwhile, Gary had his on level 1. Now I know Gary's a fine athlete, but even he shouldn't be able to outrun an e-bike at max speed. To test it, we switched bikes. Yahoo, I'm not a pathetic wimp after all. It was indeed the bikes. One was marvelous, and one was a dud. I think the bike vendor did a very poor job of ensuring the soundness of every bike on this trip. This is really surprising because in every other sector here, we're finding business owners and workers to be extremely service-oriented.
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  • Dodging Dragonflies

    Oct 1–6, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    We had the perfect weather for biking this morning. It was overcast and cool but not too cold. The entire route through the Biei/Furano district was flat or downhill. We passed fields of onions, beets, and asparagus and hillsides of trees cultivated for lumber. With wildflowers of every color lining either side of the bike path, we communed with clusters of dragonflies, kaleidoscopes of butterflies, and clouds of grasshoppers. Their heavy, winged bodies collided with our shoulders, thighs, and even cheeks. It looked more like Spring than Fall and was pure delight.

    For lunch, we enjoyed a dish of chicken biryani with spicy curry that was made even better with a local pilsner, Upopo.

    The beautiful body of vivid blue water is aptly called Blue Pond and gets its color from the natural underground minerals.

    The funny-named but stunning Waterfall of the White Mustache is just a few steps from our ryokan.

    You can see in the last photo that we embraced the culture of wearing our robes to dinner, only to discover that we were seated on the ground. Yikes, good thing we wore another layer underneath! Gary figured out that he could get up from the table by shifting to his knees first, then doing a modified burpee to hoist himself up, all without flashing the room. It was quite the performance.
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  • Biei Redux

    October 2, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    We rode down the same cycling track today as yesterday. The difference, however, is that it was rainy and cold this morning (no butterflies flitting across the path). Sporting good rain jackets, our lower halves were exposed to the elements and got saturated right down to our toes while raindrops battered our cheeks and streaked our sunglasses. This just added to the adventure, though, and made us feel like samurai on wheels.Read more

  • Sake Tasting & Italian Dinner

    October 2, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After our wet ride, we changed into dry clothes at the local tourism office and drove to Higashikawa to tour a sake distillery. We were instructed not to eat anything fermented, like natto or kimchi for breakfast, so we don't contaminate the brews with any stray microbes. We also donned attractive hairnets and shoe covers.

    Lunch was at a very clean rest stop where we had crispy, delicious katsu. They had a pretty little garden out front.

    For dinner, Google guided us to a tiny Italian restaurant that is housed, along with many other miniscule eateries, in a long underground corridor. Each restaurant is like a locker, barely seating 6-8 people. The chef was also the waiter. He spoke no English but was a very sweet guy. Thank goodness for Google translate so we didn't end up with squid ink.
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  • Yoichi Distillery/Nikka Whisky

    October 3, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    There was no biking today due to the driving distances to a tour of a whisky distillery and to our next destination. I'm not sure who decided on those priorities, but that was the schedule. The whisky tour was well organized, though entirely in Japanese, with the exception of brief informational cards in English held by the very cute tour guide whose voice was gentle and melodic. The man who established the distillery moved from Japan to Scotland where he studied how they made whisky and brought his knowledge and Scottish wife to Hokkaido, where the climate is similar to Scotland's. Even the stained glass logo pays homage to the Scottish heritage. To this day, their whisky continues to be distilled with coal fires. The photo of B&W pictures is from the museum and shows different ways to enjoy whiskey lol. I'm not a fan of whiskey, but I have to say our samplers were delicious.

    The random photo of pets was posted above the hand air dryer in a bathroom of one of our stops. I thought it was funny--and thoughtful-- for someone to place it there to provide entertainment while we waited for our hands to eventually get dry enough to wipe on our pants.
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  • Niseko

    October 3, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    After the whisky tasting, we drove to Niseko at the base of Mount Yotei, a gorgeous area that produces dairy, rice, and many vegetable crops. In all the parts of Japan we've seen so far, bright flowers beautifully adorn walkways and fields. We had a lovely ride on yet another well-maintained path dedicated to pedestrians and cyclists. Despite being in the mountains, the path we were on was relatively flat with smooth asphalt. On the river that ran along the path, we saw boat after boat filled with high school students on a fun excursion. Tour buses packed with the students passed us on our bikes, and we saw them again as we all squished into the elevators at our hotel. Also at the hotel was a huge group of women who sell makeup via multilevel marketing. They had a gala for which they all dressed to the nines. I wish we had a photo.Read more

  • More Niseko

    October 4, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Gary snuck this picture of festively-dressed ladies on the tractor trailer as well as a worker at the window separating egg yolks from whites.

    For lunch, we ate at a small place called Markie Curry for splendid soup curry.

    Back at the hotel, Gary and I took a stroll on the property that includes an adventure center that offers ropes-like climbing and bridge crossing in the air, balloon bouncy castles, badminton, and many zip lines. Sorry, none of those are pictured, just a couple of shots showing fall colors and the mountain, which is actually a volcano.

    For dinner, we went to a popular after-work bar that was bustling with patrons. We were treated to an array of Japanese bar food, which far surpasses any bar food you'll find back home. The sushi tray was from last night's dinner. The seafood here is abundant and just keeps coming, even when you can't take another bite.
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  • Toyako, Abuta District

    October 5, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    No riding today as a result of rain and wet roads all day. We had a leisurely start at the hotel. Since exercise was not on the group agenda, we worked our muscles at the hotel gym, then had a fabulous breakfast of just about anything you could want at a breakfast buffet, including panna cotta and banana chocolate crepes(!).

    Our guide spotted a Frisbee golf course in town and wanted to give it a go. I was the sole taker, so off we went in the rain for a quick round. I enjoyed it and wouldn't mind trying it when we return home. I was too focused on tossing the frisbee and keeping my rainhood out of my eyes to take any pictures.

    Afterwards, we packed up to head to our next destination, Toyako. The hotel sits right on Lake Toya. The weather is overcast and rainy and doesn't lend itself to magnificent photos. I believe it would be a sight to behold in clear sunny weather. Despite the steady downpour, we took a walk on the lakeside, and the temperature was surprisingly comfortable. Maybe tomorrow the weather will clear, we'll be able to ride, and better pictures will be forthcoming.
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  • Art Installation by Gondola

    October 5, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    We rode a gondola at night to view a lit up art installation. My photos didn't turn out. These were taken by another person in our group. It was relaxing to cruise up the mountain and back down. Cramp Man (aka DJ Cramps) provided some good music from his playlist to create ambiance. Good times.Read more

  • Photos Taken by a Fellow Rider

    October 6, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 63 °F

    The first 8 of these photos were taken a couple of days ago by another rider who captured most of them on an early morning hike.

    Today is another day of inclement weather, but this morning we were gifted with a nice rainbow. Taken from the hotel room of the same photographer. She has a good eye for composition.

    The final picture represents a topic of conversation several of us had over breakfast: slippers labeled "Toilet." Perhaps a security measure to keep people from taking these home? Or maybe just a way to make sure those slippers don't travel anywhere else in or out of the room for that extra sense of sanitary protection lol.
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  • Chilly Ride & Last Group Dinner

    October 6, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    The weather did not look promising, but in the afternoon, we took a chance and hopped on the bikes for a short spin. We had a bit of a drizzle and it was chilly, but it was worth it. The path was covered in sticks and leaves, but it was wide, and we were the only bikers using it.

    A sign warned us of the wild dangers lurking in the woods. We did have deer sightings but that was the extent of it.

    Gary decided at the last minute to forego warmer clothes and had a hard time warming up after the ride.

    Dinner was the most appetizing kaiseki meal of the trip. Wearing robes to dinner has quickly become a habit for us. It's especially nice towards the end of the trip when we're tired of wearing the same old clothes we packed.
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  • Last Day of Tour

    October 7, 2023 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    We woke to behold a pretty sunrise outside our window at Marukama Ryokan (established 1915, where emperors have been known to stay), which overlooks Lake Shikotsu. After another hearty breakfast, we packed up for the final ride of the tour. Another bear warning sign greeted us as we began our short, downhill, slightly chilly ride.

    Afterwards, we had a delectable lunch of mushroom pasta, salad, fabulous bread, and a rich, delicious dessert at Nao, a little Italian restaurant tucked away in a wooded area in Chitose. The owner chef forages for wild mushrooms and has even encountered a bear doing so.

    Our gear didn't disappoint. We are very happy with the skullcaps we wore under our helmets to warm our heads and ears. Our rain jackets kept us protected from the wind and rain. I was pleased that the hood fit over my helmet, which really kept the cold air out.
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  • Upopoy National Ainu Museum

    October 7, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    The group made a brief stop at a museum about the indigenous people of Hokkaido. It is on the shore of beautiful Lake Poroto. Pictured are wood shavings, called inaw, used as offerings to deities for protection; carved libation sticks used to make offerings for prayers by dipping the tip into sake and depositing drops on a venerated item; and traditional clothing.Read more

  • Sweet Home Hawaii

    October 7, 2023 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    How cool to enjoy a full Saturday in Japan, complete with a bike ride, lunch, and dinner, only to land back in Hawaii Saturday morning to relive the day in a completely different way AND Monday is a holiday. It's like time traveling. We love globetrotting, and it's always a pleasure returning home to Hawaii. I admit, though, that I'll miss the clean, full service bidets found in all but one of the many private and public bathrooms we visited. 😍Read more

    Trip end
    October 7, 2023