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Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
  • Monique and Gary Weisman
  • Gary Weisman

Tokyo-Kyoto 2024

A 11-day adventure by Monique and Gary & Gary Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 11, 2024
    Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    What? We thought we left long winding stairs in Portugal!Gary checking us in1Pretty pattern on elevator doors2Room decor

    Konnichiwa, Tokyo!

    May 12, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    Arrived at Narita Airport to throngs of travelers. The train options and connections are dizzying, but with the aid of helpful station staff, we had no hitches getting to our hotel in the Asakusa section of Tokyo, though we had to stand for the entire one-hour ride. Tiny but comfy room. Stopped at 7-11 and Family Mart for after dinner snacks.Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Loving the savory Japanese breakfasts
    Kanda at East exit of Tokyo StationAmeyoko shopping district near Ueno ParkAmeyokoOne of many charming alleywaysSteps to a shrine in Ueno ParkAsakusa at night near Kaminarimon GateAzumabashi Bridge1Skytower on the Sumida River

    Kanda-Tokyo Sta-Ueno-Asakusa

    May 13, 2024 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 72 °F

    Our first full day forecast predicted 100% rain and heavy downpours. It was 100% right. We came prepared for wet weather, so our spirits weren't dampened. We canceled a bike tour and decided to familiarize ourselves with the vast metro system to ensure we could find our way to activities scheduled for the coming days.

    We ate internationally. Enjoyed a Japanese buffet breakfast, an Indian lunch, and Turkish dinner. After lots of walking and standing and puzzling over train connections and getting turned around, we needed respite. There is hardly any seating available in public spaces, so we were "forced" to get a table at a restaurant and order a chocolate cake and creamy flan. Just what we needed!

    Everyone is so polite and many signs are in English, making it fairly easy to find our way around. Our umbrellas leaked, and my hair went crazy, but per Gary's constant advice, I finally embraced the frizz. ( No choice, of course).

    It was a productive and exhausting day. Up at 4:30am, we were ready to hit the sack by 9:00pm. I love puzzles, and the metro system is a big one! By the end of the day, our brains were spent, and we were mixing up everything we learned haha!!! But it was a great first day.

    BTW, in the last photo, that bright yellow thing is called the Golden Flame. It sits atop the Asahi Beer headquarters to symbolize their passion for brewing. Supposedly some locals affectionately refer to it as the golden turd or the poo building.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    2Imperial Palace guard tower
    Gorgeous azaleas lining the walkwayWall and moat to protect the palaceSwan in the moatA park near the moatResidence of the Prime Minister & familyMore walls and stoneworkOur cycling tour group aheadThe groupThe bike

    Cycling around the Imperial Palace

    May 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    On Tuesday, we took a 3-hour cycling tour with two other couples, one from Long Beach, CA and the other from Mexico City. Unlike yesterday, today was perfect weather for a bike ride. Partly cloudy and a little cool with a slight breeze.

    The first part of the tour was around the beautiful grounds of the Imperial Palace, which was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo in 1868. Stones in the protective walls above the moat are 400 years old and are from Mt Fuji.

    Currently, only males can be Prime Minister, but the law could soon change to allow females. There are so few males in the family line that if anything should happen to them, Japan could find itself without a leader to succeed the current PM. Apparently the public is very fond of the current PM's daughter, who would be next in line if the law passes.

    It's legal to ride on sidewalks here. Our guide scooted ahead pretty quickly. To keep up, we were dodging pedestrians and cyclists alike, and sometimes cars when in the street. But again, they're all so polite and accustomed to massively large crowds (everywhere!), it totally worked.

    The bikes we rode were all the same size, electric without gears or power levels, quite comfortable, and very fun. E-bikes suit us. I've decided I'm going to do an electric bike tour in every place possible that I visit.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Notice the yellow path
    On the Chuo-Ohashi bridge towards Tsukushima IslandInteresting beams on the Chuo-Ohashi bridgeChildren wearing adorable capsCycling on Tsukishima IslandAn alter on TsukudajimaRed gate on Tsukudajima w fishing boats in the backgroundStructure on Chuo-Ohashi bridge towards KandaBack at the bike shop w our guide, Yomi.

    Cycling Ginza-Tsukishima-Tsukuda

    May 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    After leaving the Imperial Palace, we headed to a very busy and expensive area called Ginza for a brief stop. We keep taking videos trying to capture the masses of people at train stations and tried again at Ginza, but they aren't translating well. Trust us, there were hoards, and we didn't hang around long. But the streets were so thick with moving bodies, we had to walk our bikes.

    Just wanted to point out the yellow path in the first picture. These are on all streets, train stations, and airports in Japan to guide blind people. They were put into place in the 1960s. We haven't actually witnessed anyone using them as intended, but what a thoughtful thing for a country to do. We saw them in Hokkaido as well.

    We rode over a large bridge, which is shown in several pictures, for a brief stint on Tsukishima Island. In 1892 following a big earthquake, all the debris was dumped in the bay in this area and the island built on top of it. Fun fact, Japan experiences an earthquake every 10 days(!).

    Tsukuda is a small island adjacent to Tsukishima where every family of its tiny population is a proud descendant of fishermen. Voting against major development for their area, its citizens have created a tranquil oasis amid the numerous skyscrapers of Tokyo surrounding it.

    We thoroughly enjoyed our islandhopping bike tour with Yomi, our guide! Afterwards, enjoyed a lunch of gyoza, rice, soups, and condiments.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Izakaya created by US service members
    Inside Omoide Yokocho2More recent Izakaya for localsTiny Izakaya bars for locals1Area of town run by Japanese mafia aka yakuza1Kabuki-cho nightlifeShrine to pray for money11GW enjoying a huge bowl of curry udon w katzuFinally a picture that somewhat captures the large crowds

    Shinjuku Red Light District

    May 14, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    On the evening of the bike tour, we had a walking tour of the Shinjuku redlight district w Suemi, a sweet local young woman, who told us about its history and laws and showed us its hideaways. The Omoide Yokocho is an alleyway of tiny Izakayas that was once a black market right after WWII. It evolved into a favorite place for locals to go for a drink until it became overrun with tourists. It still has a festive atmosphere. Locals switched to a new spot for izakayas that doesn't have the same charm as Omoide Yokocho, but it's still under development and is not teeming with tourists.

    Kabuki-cho was named so because it was supposed to be a district for kabuki shows. Though that plan fell through, the area is known for entertainment, mostly of the adult variety, and is run by the Japanese mafia. Prostitution is illegal with a big loophole: if the buyer of services states they have fallen in love with the service provider, touching on the body becomes legal. Most services are for men, but there are many young men who host women, sometimes three at a time sitting across from each other on couches, while the man moves from couch to couch chatting with each, telling her that SHE is his real girlfriend. Ugh! Affordable daycare is available for women who work as prostitutes. Love hotels are extremely popular, not just for prostitution but for regular couples who need space for an hour, since many live with their parents. There's even a shrine in the district designed specifically to pray for money since that's what many who live and work in the area are there for.

    Though there's something refreshing about the acceptance of sex in the culture and ways of supporting those who find themselves in the industry, I still left the tour feeling sick about the facade of connection that's being peddled.

    Afterwards, we had giant bowls of udon with curry that were delicious.

    Two fun facts:
    1) Shinjuku station is the busiest in the world with 3.5 million people passing through each day. 😲
    2) Smoking on the street is illegal and can only be done at home or in designated spots around the city. And believe us, you don't want to be near those spots. 😖    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Mt Fuji from the Shinkansen
    Empty serving window at empty stationNakatsugawa tourist information centerNakatsugawa town from the train/bus stationEmblems on many sidewalks of this townAn altar on the streetOne of many cute restaurant frontsSake, anyone?Mikiya Izakaya for dinner. No English, no Google Translate.Fantastic snacks

    Arriving in Nakatsugawa

    May 15–17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    On Wednesday, we took the Shinkansen (bullet) train to Nagoya, then caught a local train to the small town of Nakatsugawa, a jumping off spot for the Nakasando Way--a trail historically traveled by Samurai between Tokyo and Kyoto.

    Early in the train ride, we were unexpectedly graced with clear views of Mt Fuji. We frantically took a bunch of pictures to capture it out the window of the speeding train and succeeded with exactly one. Yay!

    Upon arrival to Nakatsugawa, we were welcomed by a cute serving window, complete with a tiny sink for washing hands.

    Just outside the station is the tourist information center where we got all the information we needed for our stay: bus and train schedules, a map to our hotel, and a restaurant guide.

    It's true that vegetarian meals are not in abundance in many parts of Japan. Dinner was fresh fish, wagyu beef, and pasta bolognese. The chef was trained in Italy. We tried wine made of local umeboshi plums mixed with soda. Though none of the staff spoke English and Google Translate wasn't cooperating, it was a fun and pleasant experience.

    Back to the hotel for onsen before bed. Temperatures are lower in this area, making the onsen extra appealing.

    What IS in great abundance here are snacks of every kind. And they are oh so fresh and good, just like all their bread products. We aren't holding back in the least. Going to any little sundry shop and picking out snacks is a whole joyful adventure in itself. It'll be a surprise if we're not 5 pounds heavier when we get home!    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Bright azaleas greet us at the start of the trail
    Uphill path through magomeIconic waterwheel for water gushing down the mountainVisitors on e-bikes. Our kind of peeps.Bear warningBear bells to ring along the trailPassing through a small villageTosh runs the teahouseSign outside of teahouse mid-trailSign pointing the way to Tsumago

    Magome-Nakasendo Way

    May 16, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Caught the first bus at 7:45am to Magome to the start of the Nakasendo Way. Only 6-7 others at that time. We read two forecasts for the day. One said a lot of rain, the other said no rain. Being optimistic (and mostly not wanting to carry a heavy load), I packed for a dry day, but Gary came fully prepared. On arrival, it was overcast and wet. Boo! Gary let me wear his rain pants, which hung loosely and barely stayed on.

    Not knowing what to expect, we entered an entirely charming and picturesque village, complete with wooden homes and water wheels. Uphill all the way. A rough start for Gary's knees.

    As we climbed away from the village, the rain abated, and weather conditions were perfect for the rest of the hike. Entering the first forested area, we were greeted by a warning sign about bears as well as a bell to ward them off. The path alternates between villages and woods, and bells are placed at every wooded entrance.

    At about the halfway point, there's a rest stop in an old teahouse run by a guy named Tosh. He has a fire going and offers tea, individually-wrapped candies, and conversation to visitors. Each day, visitors can use chalk to draw their flag and show where they're from. On our day, there were visitors from Tokyo, Indonesia, Australia, Germany, Canada, Thailand, France, Holland, Italy, and Wales. And that was at 10:30am. I'm sure more countries were added later. Hard to believe we were the only ones from the US. Of course, we had to include Hawaii on our sketch!

    During the hike, we saw mostly couples and some groups of 4-6 on the route, but it was by no means overrun. We had plenty of time to enjoy the peaceful environment on our own.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Wooded forests
    Lush treesStony pathsWooden planks and filtered lightAlong rice fieldsA local tending his fieldBleached rocks smoothed by the rushing streamSun high in the sky as we near TsumagoA case of beautiful mochi treatsA reward of 3 kinds of mochi and barley tea

    Nakasendo Way-Tsumago

    May 16, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Forest bathing along the Nakasendo Way. At only 7.7km in length, it's a very mini version of the Camino, and a wonderful experience. We took a leisurely 4 hours to finish. In Tsumago, we enjoyed a tasty treat of black bean mochi, chestnut mochi (a local specialty), and a chestnut-filled dried persimmon tucked inside mochi, washed down with barley tea. This was altogether a very pleasant experience and the highlight of our trip so far.Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Looks like ribbons
    Looks wovenFront of Kabuki TheaterIn person, the top looks snowy and etherealAn art schoolFamous destroyer of buildings in Japan

    Buildings, music, shoes in Tokyo

    May 17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Some observations about Tokyo:
    1) Had to snap photos of some very interesting buildings (only a few pictured).
    2) Godzilla is represented in a number of places around Tokyo. He started out as a destroyer of cities, then became a defender of those cities, but apparently, he's back to his old tricks as a building crusher.
    3) All restaurants--small or large, old or young crowd, cafe or pub--seem to prefer a smooth jazz sort of vibe, resulting in a weird throwback feel. (But that's, of course, only one person's opinion.)
    4) Shoe fashion du jour is white sneakers, honking big black platforms, and Crocs or knockoffs, often with a wedgy heel. (Only one picture so far, taken surreptitiously on the train by Gary. ) I'm so behind the times in my ordinary Sketchers and sandals.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Rice patties viewed from train to Kyoto
    Pretty welcome sign at the train stationUnexpected toilet in train station!Crowds at the train stationCrowds in the streetRickshaw runnerMany people rent kimono to wear as they tour throughout the dayCrane at Kamogawa RiverMy first origami...a small self-locking container

    Some Kyoto Highlights

    May 17, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    It seems that any train travel in Japan will give lots of views of rice patties. Our trip to Kyoto was no different. A beautiful sign welcomed us at the train station, and a surprise toilet greeted me at the same station. It goes without saying that Japan has the best toilets in the world, so I was not expecting this style. No bidet here, folks. Not even a seat!

    The rumor that Kyoto is a popular tourist destination is true, though I don't know how much denser the crowds are after the pandemic. We were packed cheek to jowl in the railway stations, and it wasn't much different in the streets for "must-see" areas. Upon arrival, we felt we were crowd bathing!

    Rickshaw runners in the Arashiyama district were great to watch. They had to make sure they kept the rickshaw balanced and from dropping their riders backwards. What a workout.

    Women and men dressed in kimono were a delight to see. It's apparently very popular to rent a kimono and wear it all day while you shop and eat. Hard not to take photos of each one you see.

    Along the Kamogawa River, wildlife abounds. Falcons soar overhead, and one even dove at a girl and stole her sandwich, sending the plastic wrap flying across the path! It's usually very serene, though. Caught this crane wading in a calm, shallow section.

    All I needed was a little encouragement from my friend, Liz, and now I have origami paper with a desire to fold shapes all day long!    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Rocks to cross the Kamogawa River
    Our guide showing us how to purify self at a shrineThis shrine is for loveYummy red bean treat and teaPoster in Gion Geisha districtOne of many pretty, shaded areas along a waterwayOkonomiyaki & teppenyaki lunchThere are said to be thousands of Torii Gates on this mountainKitsune (foxes) are associated with the rice God InariSign M misread as bears

    Kamogawa River-Bike Tour-Torii Gates

    May 18, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    On 5/18 we took a 4-hour bike tour of North Kyoto with our guide, Satsuki. Along with two other couples (from Cork/Dublin and Montreal), he took us along the Kawogama River, which goes for miles. We also visited a shrine and learned how to purify ourselves prior to making a prayer/wish.

    We learned that the difference between a shrine and a temple is religion. Shrines are for Shintoism and temples are for Buddhism. The way to distinguish them is that Torii gates are always in front of shrines. No Torii gate? It's a temple.

    A delicious red bean snack was part of the package. We ended the bike tour in the Gion area where the Geisha train and work, but we weren't there at a time of day when they are visible. Gary and I finished up by enjoying lunch at one of the restaurants or guide recommended.

    We had a little siesta in the middle of the afternoon, then decided to brave the popular Fushimi Inari Taisha Sembon Torii Gates. As expected, there were multitudes, but they're always clustered near the entry points. As you climb higher up the mountain, the hordes thin out substantially. Gary's knees weren't happy, so he decided to stop midway. I felt the need to reach the top and kept going around every turn and up every stair that presented itself. I came across a sign that warned against monkeys and boars after dark. As it was late in the day, I rushed myself, especially given that I thought the sign said bears haha. In the end, the view wasn't fantastic, but the gates upon gates were a sight to behold, plus it was a great workout, and I now have the bragging rights.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    The magical and magnificent Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
    A lovely lotus pond away from the crowdsIn the Ohkouchi Sansou GardenSee the guy in the tree? He's trimming branches.Wonderful view from a meditation deck in the gardenNotice the temple on the hill. We could hear its gong ringing from afar.Romantic boat rideLong line to take a boat ride despite the rainy weatherInside the temple with a miniature replica made of abacuses

    Arashiyama

    May 19, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    The morning of 5/19, we were up and out early, hoping to beat the crowds to the bamboo forest, but a lot of other tourists apparently had the same idea and were as undaunted by the day's rainy weather as we were. Still, despite walking through the forest with many others, there was a hushed, calming feeling from being in that abundant nature. We also found quiet in other less traveled pockets. One such place is the Ohkouchi Sansou Garden, created by a Japanese film actor from the early 20th century, with its winding paths that led to hidden sanctuaries.

    Later, we strolled along the banks of the Hozu River, where people lined up to rent row boats or take a ride on a gondola-style boat. We chose to explore (another steep) path on the opposite side of the river. Gary drank coffee, which miraculously helped relieve his knee pain, and pushed onward and upward. Not having planned it, we were thrilled to find ourselves at a temple we viewed way up the hill from the Ohkouchi Garden. It was fantastic. Serene. Tranquil. Very few people. Our most common companions being the sounds of the wind, trees, and birds.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    Back on the Kamogawa River
    Gary leading the wayLocals enjoying lunch on the other side of the Philosopher's PathA sweet little side streetGreenery in the cityStatues w white aprons. Perhaps an altar to Jizo, Buddhist patron deity of children & travelers.

    Bike Rental-Philosopher's Path

    May 20, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    If it's not already obvious, our happy place is on two-wheelers. We rented bikes on our own to enjoy more of the Kamogawa River and surrounding neighborhoods. Made a last minute decision to find the Philosopher's Path. It wasn't a big surprise to find many tourists there, but we could still appreciate its beauty. I can only imagine how gorgeous it is during cherry blossom season.

    Kyoto is filled with green walkways. We parked our bikes and walked on a different footpath near the Philosopher's Path and saw locals having lunch on shaded benches.    Read more

  • Tokyo-Kyoto 2024
    The start of the path at a large shrine
    A fountain pretty high above on a hillLarge cedar tree behind GaryAnother huge tree and scenic surroundingsOur favorite temple where we sat for a 10-min meditationUphillMore stairsAnother pretty, red bridgeDownhillThe Tengu

    Kurama dera-Kibune-Home

    May 20, 2024 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    There is a trail from the small mountain town of Kurama-dera to Kibune that takes about 90 minutes to walk. We decided to check it out on the afternoon of 5/20 immediately following the bike return.

    The train that takes you up has only two cars and feels a bit like a cable car rattling its way up the mountain, going over bridges where the ground plunges far below. When we approached a particularly leafy wooded section, all the passengers rushed to the front of the car for photos and videos, but we didn't manage to capture any of it.

    Because it was later in the afternoon, and the path included stairs, stairs, and more stairs, we only did a portion, but it was worth the trip. Again, few people this high up. Just ourselves and huge cedars and many shrines and temples.

    At the start of the trail is a large Tengu sculpture. Tengu is a minor Shinto supernatural deity, representing the duality of good and evil, and is thought to protect one from evil spirits.

    On 5/21, we visited the Saiin Kasuga Jinja shrine, which is known for being decorated with hanging wisteria. However, we didn't consider that it's out of season, and the shrine is quite small, so we didn't take photos. It was fun to walk around the Saiin neighborhood though. Then we headed back for a quick walk along the river way once more before catching a bus to Itami airport in Osaka.

    While we got very comfortable finding our way on the many, many train and subway lines to the different destinations, we still stumbled through getting around inside the Kyoto station because it's very large. On our final arrival to the station on a line we hadn't ridden before, we were like rats in a maze trying to find our way to the proper exit we needed. It took about 15 minutes and was both frustrating and comical.

    We have now arrived back home. Only 3 lbs gained... and that's with walking at least 20k steps each day but also nonstop snacking. 🤭 We are so grateful for a very full and enjoyable trip to Japan. The country is so clean and orderly, and the people friendly and welcoming. It was a real pleasure to visit.    Read more

    Trip end
    May 21, 2024
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