• Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix
  • Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix

Mustang Mally

The highlight of the bucket list year is about to begin in time for Bel's birthday. Rwanda and Nepal's Lower Mustang, here we come! Read more
  • Trip start
    February 26, 2026

    Expectations vs Reality

    February 26 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Ok so I used AI to create the title photo before we left. I kinda like the square jaw version of me tho 🤣. We are smiling, groomed and not at all sweaty... let's see how that stacks up. This is the obligatory Sydney photo to commence tracking. Adios!Read more

  • Livin it up in the Hotel Rwanda

    February 26 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    What a long haul to get here: these gorillas better be good. Yes, it was business class but it was still nearly 48 hrs door to door. Sydney-Singapore-Johannesburg-Kigali.

    We are staying in the Hotel des Mille Collines which is the new name for the original Hotel Rwanda where thousands of Tutsi refugees were hidden from the Hutu militia during the genocide. I'll have to watch the movie now:
    https://m.imdb.com/title/tt0395169/

    The history is nice but it's essentially a relatively budget place to crash for the night before our adventures begin tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Oh Magashi

    February 28 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    OMG. What a beautiful place! I had in my head that this was a "filler" before the gorillas later on but this is an amazing destination in its own right. We were greeted with typical African love to a lakeside resort inside the Akagera National Park. Waterfront mosquito netted huts with an unlimited minibar, flash safari vehicles, the whole resort to ourselves... what's not to love?Read more

  • Bless the rains

    March 1 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Timing is everything. Dark clouds loomed for much of the afternoon but we were able to complete our morning game drive and most of our afternoon boat tour before it absolutely hammered down. The downpour, thunder and lightning were dramatic and beautiful to observe from the safety of our tent village.Read more

  • Long way to Ngyungwe

    March 2 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We left Magashi at 0700 and arrived at One & Only Ngyungwe House at 1730 with only a quick lunch stop on the way. We were tired and ready to just sleep but had enough energy to marvel at the setting and enjoy the chef's offerings before bed. We need to present at 0500 tomorrow to go chase some chimpanzees.Read more

  • Climbing the Evolutionary Ladder

    March 3 in Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Chimpanzees are Great Apes. In fact all apes are great except gibbons. Sucks to be a gibbon.
    Today we woke up at 0430 to meet at 0500 to go Chimpanzee trekking. The terrain was steep and incredibly slippery. It was an amazing adventure, but it left us so exhausted that we ditched the afternoon canopy walk in favour of a tea experience and a lazy afternoon by the pool at the lodge.Read more

  • Clay Motion

    March 4 in Rwanda ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We left the apparent luxury of Nyungwe to arrive at our apex destination: Singita Volcanoes Rwanda. We took the financial hit for this many months ago and now we are able to enjoy it without trepidation. It is simply the most luxurious, highest serviced destination we have ever been to. The setting, at the foot of the five volcanoes, and the hotel itself are phenomenal. Open kitchen, herb garden, pottery wheels and kiln, unbelievable cellar, hiking equipment... the list goes on, but the service is next level. All the staff are elegant but not at all aloof and things just happen. I'm glad it's just three nights or I could never go back to taking my own socks off.Read more

  • Gorillas in the Drizzle

    March 5 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The big question of the day was "How far do we have to walk to find the gorillas?"
    The reports were 1-8 hours. First they put you in groups based on capability. Our guide had the inside running so got us into a group of like-minded mobile but lazy people which included an influencer. The ground was complete slosh and involved elevation and altitude so it was heavy going but it was all so worth it!

    Here is a flyover of the trek route
    https://www.strava.com/activities/17611373915/f…
    Read more

  • Walk in the Park

    March 6 in Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today's "trek" was a leisurely stroll through farmland to the edge of the national park. The Golden Monkeys, who we were seeking, hang out right on the border because they like to steal potatoes from the farmers. We barely broke a sweat and certainly didn't deserve the backpack full of goodies that we were given to sustain us in our efforts. The monkeys were active and intriguing but they were definitely the undercard. Nobody talks about Monkeys in the Mist.Read more

  • Running the Gauntlet

    March 7 in Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The big orange turd didn't take our travel plans into account when he decided to vent his frustrations on Iran. This left us with 3 options:
    Risk our Qatar flight to KTM via Doha (which ended up being officially cancelled)
    Cut the Nepal leg out without a refund and source a flight home early (flights are scarce and crazy $$$)
    Take the only viable route to Nepal: Istanbul then KTM with Turkish Airlines (What can go wrong on a flight route that splits Iran and Ukraine?)
    We've gone with option 3 but it has created a looong travel day: 2 night flights with a 12 hr layover in Istanbul! I'll let the pictures do the talking.
    Read more

  • In a World We Must Defend..

    March 9 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Pokhara!

    We avoided further major turbulence (both natural and orange-man induced) to finally arrive in Pokhara, Nepal, some 34 hours after leaving Rwanda.

    Unfortunately the pollution is unusually bad today but we are told that 3 of the 10 highest mountains in the world cradle the city. We are due to take a small plane hop tomorrow morning. If it doesn't clear then it's a 6 hr drive to the lower Mustang.

    We will be back here on our return leg so hopefully Pokhara is able to reveal its beauty to us then. Given the pollution and fatigue we decided that the only treatment available was retail. Cashmere anyone?
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  • Slow that Mustang Down

    March 10 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A brilliant night's sleep was followed by 90 minutes of sky watching at the airport. Spring usually produces the crisp blue skies behind mountains that you see in postcards but forest fires are playing havoc with visibility. We had a 4WD on standby in case our plane was unable to fly. It became clear that it would stay murky so we jumped in the car and took a fascinating 5hr, 160km drive along windy roads (half-wrecked by landslides), across creaky bridges (that took one car at a time) and through many small villages that were once important stops along the Mustang valley trade route that once connected Tibet and China with Nepal and India. So it took a little longer than expected, but we had fun and still arrived in time for lunch.
    Shinta Mani Mustang will be our home for the next 5 nights. If their welcome is anything to go by we are in for a real treat.
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  • Good vibrations

    March 11 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Rishab, our activity butler, had his first opportunity to shine today and he was absolutely glistening. The skies started to clear then he eased us into our week of trekking (lite) before ensuring that we recovered with the usual wellness offerings plus a visit to the sound healer.Read more

  • Phys and Farm

    March 12 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Today was action packed. We dabbled with the long bow, took a field trip to revise some Part 1 physiology and sampled goods from local farms. Our wellness routine add-on today was a consultation with an amchi. I don't think he'd pass the part 1, but he'd give the examiners something to think about.Read more

  • Aren't You a Little Short for a Mustang?

    March 13 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Our main destination today was the town of Marpha: a pretty village that is a favourite of domestic tourists due to its narrow lanes, traditional buildings and apple farms. It also has streets with famous names such as Tik Tok lane and Jerryy lane named after the 2014 Nepalese blockbuster, "Jerryy". Local tourists rent Himalayan attire and film themselves recreating scenes from the movie. I recommend Jerryy for those interested!
    Most of our exploration prior to that was on horseback.. An excellent way to reach those elevated monasteries!
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  • Blown Away

    March 14 in Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    The Upper Mustang border would be our last field trip. The road from Pokhara to Jomsom continues North all the way to Tibet. The elevation increases, the landscape becomes harsher and more baron and the culture becomes more Tibetan. One of our longest hikes would take us to a mountain temple in Muktinath then across a river to Dzong Buddhist temple where we would dine alone on the rooftop overlooking a vista so vast that photos don't do it justice. The wind became crazy (40kph) so dessert was at ground level before a breakneck (ok probably 50kph) mountain bike ride on a steep, rocky roads with a crosswind. What a ride and what a way to finish!Read more

  • Long road home

    March 15 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Getting to and from the Mustang region takes time to allow for roads and weather. Both were optimal but this time we were stymied by airline commercial interests so we jeeped it back to Pokhara before finally catching a plane to Kathmandu.
    We had enough time to enjoy the heritage Dwarika's Hotel and visit UNESCO Hindu Cremation/temple site, Pashupatinath, before facing reality once again.
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    Trip end
    March 18, 2026