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Mustang Mally
  • Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix
  • Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix

Mustang Mally

The highlight of the bucket list year is about to begin in time for Bel's birthday. Rwanda and Nepal's Lower Mustang, here we come! Læs mere
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  • Start på rejsen
    26. februar 2026
    Mustang Mally
    5

    Expectations vs Reality

    26. februar, Australien ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Ok so I used AI to create the title photo before we left. I kinda like the square jaw version of me tho 🤣. We are smiling, groomed and not at all sweaty... let's see how that stacks up. This is the obligatory Sydney photo to commence tracking. Adios!Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Hotel Rwanda: Not glam, but full of local art and artifacts
    Killing time at the first of our two long transits. Can only drink so much cognac in 8 hours.Next stop, but facing a 10 hr transit & unable to check in until 3 hrs prior, we sought refuge.A metal chair and last ditch CNY celebrations didn't seem like a great optionSo we found the cheapest day room of the airport hotels: we later remembered that we stayed here b4!An airport lounge that has good beer and shows the golf and cricket on TV!Our last leg! Nearly 4 hrs to Kigali. Rwandair was better than expected!Jeff met us with a LandCruiser. A promise of things to come.Kigali is clean and green. Every 4 weeks they have a community cleaning day!1View from the hotelNice place. A little aged but good enough if you're just looking for a comfortable base.

    Livin it up in the Hotel Rwanda

    26. februar, Sydafrika ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    What a long haul to get here: these gorillas better be good. Yes, it was business class but it was still nearly 48 hrs door to door. Sydney-Singapore-Johannesburg-Kigali.

    We are staying in the Hotel des Mille Collines which is the new name for the original Hotel Rwanda where thousands of Tutsi refugees were hidden from the Hutu militia during the genocide. I'll have to watch the movie now:
    https://m.imdb.com/title/tt0395169/

    The history is nice but it's essentially a relatively budget place to crash for the night before our adventures begin tomorrow.    Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Magashi Camp: home for the next 2 nights
    Jeff drove us 3.5 hrs from Kigali. Paved roads turned into dirt roads and real RwandaThe style of houses changedAnd the greetings became warmerOur rendezvous with Assiat to change vehiclesA big happy birthday on arrivalAnd a quick reassurance that we wouldn't starveBeer of the day 1: Mutzig. Favoured by the locals this will be hard to beat.Lakeside tent luxuryComplete with balcony and mosquito netWe were excited to see an antelope. 24hrs later we had seen hundredsThese guys are worth the excitementTopi became my spirit animal. Somehow I could always spot them before the guide.Nice spot for a sundownerOur Hilux had a few handy modifications1They like to eat on land but don't get between them and the water!A magical find on our first safari day. The elusive leopard!Who wasn't too happy that we had outed him mid-stalk. Sorry leopard.After dinner we heard some strange noises by the pool. Flash was not an option.Happy birthday with the colours of the Rwandan flag

    Oh Magashi

    28. februar, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    OMG. What a beautiful place! I had in my head that this was a "filler" before the gorillas later on but this is an amazing destination in its own right. We were greeted with typical African love to a lakeside resort inside the Akagera National Park. Waterfront mosquito netted huts with an unlimited minibar, flash safari vehicles, the whole resort to ourselves... what's not to love?Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    The rest of the big 5 were ticked off on day 2. Not bad!
    Breakfast was massive. I don't know how they thought we'd go through 11 pieces of bread!Velvet monkeys. There were around 30 in the troop but this guy was the closest.Wart hog! Apparently their name, poomba, literally means stupid.1Zebra crossing....sorry.Buffalo and birdsNear.....Far.....They were so relaxed that one actually sat down. This is rare in case predators come.Waterbuck. They have a special gland that makes them one of the smelliest animals in AfricaDecisions...Beer of the day 2: Skol This is a malt beer that I rate as average.Beer of the day 3: (I never said only 1 beer per day!) Rwandan Gold. Refreshing despite its colour.Ok I may have overstated the dark clouds... They're coming!But not before a quick dipOnto our swamp boat full of anticipation1For good reason. A family of elephants were mudding themselves and playing nearbySo they arranged for a car to meet us to get closer to them1Then back aboard for more exploringNile crocodiles didn't bother the elephantsOr the water buffaloDark clouds gathered...But not before our rendezvous sundownerWhich we drank very quicklyBefore running to the boat. The seas were wild that day, my friend.But nothing that a warm bowl of soup wouldn't fix.

    Bless the rains

    1. marts, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Timing is everything. Dark clouds loomed for much of the afternoon but we were able to complete our morning game drive and most of our afternoon boat tour before it absolutely hammered down. The downpour, thunder and lightning were dramatic and beautiful to observe from the safety of our tent village.Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally

    Bonus episode: Magashi animals

    2. marts, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    My photos are for memories rather than quality but Bel brought the big camera so I'm going to drop some of hers here: for subscribers only.

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  • Mustang Mally
    We are now at around 2000m so we can start adding "in the mist" to all our photos.
    1The only way to start the day at 0450Felt silly in gaitors but we were grateful when we mostly avoided the ants that attacked the others.Well before sunriseWell and truly daylight after the off-road drive deep into the parkIt all seemed so civilised and easy at the startUntil it wasn'tSome of the older folk found it seriously hard going and slowed us down1Holding her tongue...1But it took willpowerThe porters made a big difference to help us keep up with the chimps' location1They even carved foot holds in the mud with their machetes1It was tough going but so much fun!Spot the chimp!1Now it's a bit easierOk these two were Bel's photos but I didn't think I needed to say thatBel 3They are all muscle and brain1Don't mess with these guys1I love vines and moss1My one bath every 5 yearsTea experience time!Like whiskey tasting without the headacheSomeone was better at following instructions2The best end to a day.. Complete with hat and little bag of sunscreen and moisturizer

    Climbing the Evolutionary Ladder

    3. marts, Rwanda ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Chimpanzees are Great Apes. In fact all apes are great except gibbons. Sucks to be a gibbon.
    Today we woke up at 0430 to meet at 0500 to go Chimpanzee trekking. The terrain was steep and incredibly slippery. It was an amazing adventure, but it left us so exhausted that we ditched the afternoon canopy walk in favour of a tea experience and a lazy afternoon by the pool at the lodge.Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Not a bad greeting room.
    We only have 3 days.. Decisions!!The view from our bedroom complete with sound bowlsYes it is that comfortable.Or you can sit in the window sillHello little friend!The bathroom/walk in wardrobe has a massage table ready to goBath. Indoor shower or outdoor shower?Sitting room complete with decked out minibarAnd an outdoor sitting area with another fireplace!Heated plunge pool. Elephants drink from here!Amarula!!!1Board games and water colour set in case you feel artisticHerb garden.. One of three tiers1Pottery building1Bel was a little nervous despite our excellent lessonBut soon realised that she didn't need to be1I was much more relaxedMaybe a little too relaxedWe won't mention the touches from TheoOr in my case, Theo pulling it apart and rebuilding it.1Thanks Theo!I don't care if it's bad Feng Shui.

    Clay Motion

    4. marts, Rwanda ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    We left the apparent luxury of Nyungwe to arrive at our apex destination: Singita Volcanoes Rwanda. We took the financial hit for this many months ago and now we are able to enjoy it without trepidation. It is simply the most luxurious, highest serviced destination we have ever been to. The setting, at the foot of the five volcanoes, and the hotel itself are phenomenal. Open kitchen, herb garden, pottery wheels and kiln, unbelievable cellar, hiking equipment... the list goes on, but the service is next level. All the staff are elegant but not at all aloof and things just happen. I'm glad it's just three nights or I could never go back to taking my own socks off.Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    We met at the equipment room at 0600 to don (Ok to have donned) our gaiters.
    It didn't mean skipping breakfast thoThe outlook was gloomy which meant mud but lots of atmosphereWe were so clean!The entrance to the national park gave us a hint of what was to come.I didn't get a picture to capture the absolute slosh, but it was very steep and very, very muddy.But after a thigh burning 90 minutes or so...Babies! Wait for Bel's SLR pics for better closer upsBut we were so close that even the phone was okMasks were necessary to avoid disease transmission both waysWe just sat amongst them and watched for an hourThey are both so contentThey mostly slept after a big meal but the babies are always restlessAnd need supervisionAnother reason for being sleepySo fuzzy in the rain!We were as close as we wanted to be to the alpha silverbackThere was no denying who the boss wasGot it?They were happy to test his patienceAnd each others' patienceNot clean anymoreA nice welcomeThanks Jeff!Waiting for us in our room.. Info about the family that we visitedWhat could make the day better? Wine tasting for two perhaps? In a cellar!All South African wines .. opened just for us. Some available to buy by auction only.The evening's entertainment. So joyous and, feeling happy after the tasting, we joined in.

    Gorillas in the Drizzle

    5. marts, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    The big question of the day was "How far do we have to walk to find the gorillas?"
    The reports were 1-8 hours. First they put you in groups based on capability. Our guide had the inside running so got us into a group of like-minded mobile but lazy people which included an influencer. The ground was complete slosh and involved elevation and altitude so it was heavy going but it was all so worth it!

    Here is a flyover of the trek route
    https://www.strava.com/activities/17611373915/f…    Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Blue skies today!
    The mud had dried up and the terrain was flat. No whinging today.Before we knew it we were amongst these guysThey are called Golden Monkeys for a reasonInitially it was hard to capture them on cameraBecause they were always running, climbing or fightingI was thrilled to capture one that wasn't blurryUntil we moved around the corner to where the zen monkeys livedThey were happy to just sit and chew on the roots that they unearthedSo we even managed a selfieNow we're talking1Walking back was just as pleasant. Today was a bit like primate lite.Back at the lodge, the buffalo came to drink from our hot tubWe had better options to quench our thirst.Chef's table for our final night.We've had some wonderful meals served by a kitchen that is full of smiles. On the road again 2morrow

    Walk in the Park

    6. marts, Rwanda ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today's "trek" was a leisurely stroll through farmland to the edge of the national park. The Golden Monkeys, who we were seeking, hang out right on the border because they like to steal potatoes from the farmers. We barely broke a sweat and certainly didn't deserve the backpack full of goodies that we were given to sustain us in our efforts. The monkeys were active and intriguing but they were definitely the undercard. Nobody talks about Monkeys in the Mist.Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    3Good bye Singita Volcano Rwanda. I might see you again on my 70th
    Where's Ryan Gosling? We stopped at the Ellen DeGeneres Research Centre before heading to KigaliYou can do a personality quiz. Cantsbee is my gorilla match.Fascinating aerial shot of the efforts to reclaim the forest. They're aiming for 23 percent more.Our overnight at the modest Hemingway Hotel in Kigali turned into a day stay before an 0200 flight.We decided to relax rather then go to the genocide museum. Bad form??There's actually a priority pass/amex lounge in the tiny Kigali airport! Not great, but it's free.Looking fresh enough at this stage. Let's see how it goes.1We gambled leaving the middle seat vacant. We lost BIG time. Bel so happy he left at Uganda!1I had my eye on the 3 vacant seats next to me but they all filled up. Boo.3Still alive at Istanbul and happy to discover TAs hotel offerAs our layover met the criteria they put us up at a 5 Star hotel for free including food & transferIt ended up being a private minivan just for usThe Hotel was the Renaissance Polat overlooking the Mamara Sea! Beats 12hrs at the airport.Yummy Turkish sweets but not the right time to caffeinate. One more leg to go.

    Running the Gauntlet

    7. marts, Uganda ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The big orange turd didn't take our travel plans into account when he decided to vent his frustrations on Iran. This left us with 3 options:
    Risk our Qatar flight to KTM via Doha (which ended up being officially cancelled)
    Cut the Nepal leg out without a refund and source a flight home early (flights are scarce and crazy $$$)
    Take the only viable route to Nepal: Istanbul then KTM with Turkish Airlines (What can go wrong on a flight route that splits Iran and Ukraine?)
    We've gone with option 3 but it has created a looong travel day: 2 night flights with a 12 hr layover in Istanbul! I'll let the pictures do the talking.    Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Namaste! A little worse for wear... On the right, anyway.
    Kathmandu international airport is not any better than the domestic. Immigration was terrible too!The domestic experience was the complete opposite... Partially because we had helpAt the gate kiosk: snacks were somewhat uniqueIf you are ever here, don't buy the bubble tea. This is matcha!Sneaking a selfie in the no cameras area. Dumb tourists!Our old school twin turbo prop. This is the big plane so we can take all our luggage.Animal Kingdom anyone? Wait. That yeti keeps breaking down..🤔The locals were a bit embarrassed about the skies which have been like this for 2 weeksPokhara airport is modern! India/China tension prevents it from hosting major airlines.En route to Lakeside Pokhara. Lots of white people with tattoos, charm bracelets and hiking sandals.Our hotel is hosting a local wedding reception! It's not all the Byron crowdTriv team: national flower of Nepal = rhododendron. That's the tea. The twig is a bottle brush.!Unique and labour intensive hotel room snack gift1Himalayan trout. Hopefully the pollution is isolated to the skies.

    In a World We Must Defend..

    9. marts, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Pokhara!

    We avoided further major turbulence (both natural and orange-man induced) to finally arrive in Pokhara, Nepal, some 34 hours after leaving Rwanda.

    Unfortunately the pollution is unusually bad today but we are told that 3 of the 10 highest mountains in the world cradle the city. We are due to take a small plane hop tomorrow morning. If it doesn't clear then it's a 6 hr drive to the lower Mustang.

    We will be back here on our return leg so hopefully Pokhara is able to reveal its beauty to us then. Given the pollution and fatigue we decided that the only treatment available was retail. Cashmere anyone?    Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Mustang Valley in situ
    1Our plane was too little to qualify for the new airportAn early rise and a bit too much coffeeNever understood the pea soup description. I prefer clam chowder.Plan B is a goAt first they roads were greatBut the views were terribleAs the roads became worse..The views improved.We stopped for a lassi at the world's second tallest bungee (at the time the sign was made anyway)The clam chowder hung around so driving was the right call. That's the jumping point. Gotta be braveGotta be brave here too1And hereOur next stop was a beautiful waterfall. Is that a woman on a yak?!They both looked a little oddAha. You could pay $1 to take a photo having a ride1Prettier than a yak15 hrs from Pokhara: The main entrance...to the bar!And the spa! I knew we came to Shinta Mani for a reasonCold shower then hot 3 ways.Then the first of our daily included massage sessions at the wellness centreDinner would follow a theme every night as per the yak board1Tonight's theme was the trade route so the table decorations and the meals matched the theme"Do we scrape some Himalayan salt into the bath?" No, you add 1 or 2 slabs!

    Slow that Mustang Down

    10. marts, Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A brilliant night's sleep was followed by 90 minutes of sky watching at the airport. Spring usually produces the crisp blue skies behind mountains that you see in postcards but forest fires are playing havoc with visibility. We had a 4WD on standby in case our plane was unable to fly. It became clear that it would stay murky so we jumped in the car and took a fascinating 5hr, 160km drive along windy roads (half-wrecked by landslides), across creaky bridges (that took one car at a time) and through many small villages that were once important stops along the Mustang valley trade route that once connected Tibet and China with Nepal and India. So it took a little longer than expected, but we had fun and still arrived in time for lunch.
    Shinta Mani Mustang will be our home for the next 5 nights. If their welcome is anything to go by we are in for a real treat.    Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Blue skies meant a chance to have breakfast outside
    But Pokhara is still opaque so the flights to Jomsom were cancelled yet againMonastery stop: I resisted the urge to imitate the Golden Child: "I want the knife...pleeeaase!"Just as well: the resident monk was nice enough to bless our birthdays and give us a scarf each.It's incredible what a little river can do given enough timeOur 4WD brought us most of the way but the terrain was eventually the winnerShetland's pony required from here onShortly after we arrived at the small village of Lubra.Which was founded in response to the successful sprouting of this walnut tree. It's now 800 yrs old!Animals are kept in the courtyard or in the house. People live upstairsA terrible playground with a wonderful view for the kids who live in this hostel during term.We climbed to 3100m to reach a monastery above the town. Puffing and peeing.. come on 2,3DPG!Worth the hypoxiaA home cooked lunch on a village rooftopThe outlook from the spa was very different todaySound healing! We felt the various frequencies resonate through our bodies like an internal massage.

    Good vibrations

    11. marts, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Rishab, our activity butler, had his first opportunity to shine today and he was absolutely glistening. The skies started to clear then he eased us into our week of trekking (lite) before ensuring that we recovered with the usual wellness offerings plus a visit to the sound healer.Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Daily breakfast sky rating: 7/10
    20 arrows were loosed only 1 hit the target....by guess who?1Grr. There is a Bon Buddhist celebration involving alcohol and archery! They're all Leg(o)less.The Jomsom runway near Shinta Mani still remains unused. Pokhara better clear by Sat!Beautiful green farms at altitude. Productive, but if I was the town planner....fore!By 0900 skies finally hit a 10It was so warm that I just wore a t-shirt and could leave the down jacket in the car.Connecting to Strava was a mistake. Trying to impress followers I surged on: altitude symptoms!Many stops later (& after mansplaining the alveolar gas eqn & the 02 cascade to Risshab) we made it!We shouldn't be surprised anymore...A group apparently preceded us on horseback to Tilicho Lake to set this up including a natural eskyIt was too bright for candles but they provided a musician (also the HR manager)But before lunch we had to take a plunge. Towels, gowns and slippers ready to go.The air must've really been thin because we both went in without hesitation. (Frozen 2 wks ago)A little hesitation may have been wiseBel stayed in for 11 secs. I cracked 11 min based on the advice of a surgeon who has a plunge pool.2He later told me it was 11 min over a week.Sunbathing and caloric intake turned out to not be the best way to prevent hypothermiaRemoving wet clothing, adding layers and channeling my inner lizard proved more effective.All was well in the end. Remember folks, it's easier to prevent heat loss than to restore it!The trek up took us a staggering 90 minutes for only 3km (with a 400m rise from our starting 3400m).The trek down took 45m (beer assisted). Alcohol is not the best way to overcome altitude diuresis.Also don't take pictures on a ledge with a camera in one hand and a beer in the otherSafe and sound (somehow), I gave the salt blocks a whirl.... MehAmchi = Nepalese healer. Bel's instructions were more intrusive than mineApparently I am young above the belly button and old below🤔 He also said to avoid cold: unprompted!Tonight's dinner theme: Farmers and foragers. Our first taste of yak milk foam!

    Phys and Farm

    12. marts, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 5 °C

    Today was action packed. We dabbled with the long bow, took a field trip to revise some Part 1 physiology and sampled goods from local farms. Our wellness routine add-on today was a consultation with an amchi. I don't think he'd pass the part 1, but he'd give the examiners something to think about.Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    The morning began with a short brisk hike. We put our faith in local engineering
    Lucky we are relatively skinnyThini town.... full of Thini peopleWaking up... to...say....Namaste!Meet ThiniMeet Kali1We were told that they are small horses not big ponies. I don't think Kali was impressed with meHe was stubborn as anything so we had a battle of wills. I'll call it a drawBel, meanwhile, became besties with Thini who did whatever he was askedNo wonder she looks so relaxed in the saddleI think it was mostly because she didn't have to hike up the steep hill to the monasteryFirst stop, however, was Dhumba lake. It has religious significance.But no real touristic significance. Onwards Kali!Kali keep up!He was jealous of the unburdened 3rd horse. They fought constantlyMost of the route was very steep, rocky paths which led to this monasteryA monk was told to build it near mountains, a river and an elephant shaped rock.1Can you see the elephant?How about now?In the land of the blind the one eyed man is kingFinally on to Marpha.. the apple town!Cute houses and lanewaysAnd welcoming peopleThis doesn't look great, but when you mix it all together it is fantasticShe was proud of her food and very happy that we left clean platesWatch Jerryy then these lanes will take on a new meaning

    Aren't You a Little Short for a Mustang?

    13. marts, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Our main destination today was the town of Marpha: a pretty village that is a favourite of domestic tourists due to its narrow lanes, traditional buildings and apple farms. It also has streets with famous names such as Tik Tok lane and Jerryy lane named after the 2014 Nepalese blockbuster, "Jerryy". Local tourists rent Himalayan attire and film themselves recreating scenes from the movie. I recommend Jerryy for those interested!
    Most of our exploration prior to that was on horseback.. An excellent way to reach those elevated monasteries!    Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Europe isn't the only place to find old buildings. 14C palace converted to a guest house
    1The guardians are a grandma and grandpa. Grandpa's doing pretty well (but I'd sheath that sword)Oldest prayer wheel we've seen. Also 14th C1Such a cutieOur first live Yak! Not in the wild but a real one!They are a lot smaller than we thoughtNext the hike from the town to the temple up countless stairs starting at 3800mI brought my swimmers but had second thoughts. This ain't no mountain lake.We left this one to the locals as well. It seemed a bit kitsch to do it as a non Buddhist westernerPilgrims make their way here from all over Nepal and IndiaThis was our way downThere were other options ranging from the cheap...To the Bollywood...To whatever you call thisWe took a sidetrack from the town to cross some farmlandIt was so nice to be isolated from the crowdsI'm still a bit suspicious of Nepalese engineeringOur lunch destination. We had to earn it!Dzong monastery has an arrangement with Shinta Mani to put on something special1What's not to love?Birthday cake as well!Ready to rollWith a support car in towCouldn't take the corners too aggressivelyIt's hard to describe the scale. Zoom in to the road on the right.And finally... Yak Donald's! They even had a happy meal

    Blown Away

    14. marts, Nepal ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    The Upper Mustang border would be our last field trip. The road from Pokhara to Jomsom continues North all the way to Tibet. The elevation increases, the landscape becomes harsher and more baron and the culture becomes more Tibetan. One of our longest hikes would take us to a mountain temple in Muktinath then across a river to Dzong Buddhist temple where we would dine alone on the rooftop overlooking a vista so vast that photos don't do it justice. The wind became crazy (40kph) so dessert was at ground level before a breakneck (ok probably 50kph) mountain bike ride on a steep, rocky roads with a crosswind. What a ride and what a way to finish!Læs mere

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  • Mustang Mally
    Goodbye Lower Mustang
    Pokhara Lakeside: now with a visible lake!And visible mountains on the way to the airport!The flight was so much more interesting this time - antiemetics recommended for the weak gutted1Dwarika's Hotel Kathmandu: an institution. Mr Dwarika preserved carvings from traditional buildings1The woodwork is incorporated everywhere. It is beautiful even though the location isn't great1Pashupatinath serves as a place of worship, exercise and cremationThere are funerals here most morningsThe poorer you are the further downstream you enter the riverIt felt somewhat intrusive even though we were on the other side of the river and elevatedMany toran (arches with snakes etc to keep evil out) guarding lingamsThese are just for tracking the path home, but getting a ride on the Changi cart was fun!Hello Sydney!!!At least Shinta Mani did our washing for us

    Long road home

    15. marts, Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Getting to and from the Mustang region takes time to allow for roads and weather. Both were optimal but this time we were stymied by airline commercial interests so we jeeped it back to Pokhara before finally catching a plane to Kathmandu.
    We had enough time to enjoy the heritage Dwarika's Hotel and visit UNESCO Hindu Cremation/temple site, Pashupatinath, before facing reality once again.    Læs mere

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    Slut på rejsen
    18. marts 2026
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