• Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix
  • Malcolm Albany
  • Flight of the phoenix

We Don't Talk About Colombia

The Fab Five visit Colombia! Hopefully this doesn't turn into a GoFundMe page. Leia mais
  • Inicio da viagem
    4 de dezembro de 2024

    Vamonos!

    4 de dezembro de 2024, Austrália ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Had to steal one of Bel's photos to make the location tracking kick in. I wish I'd taken video of the Uber ride in tho. We were with 4.94 star Indian driver, Suraj, who made it his personal mission to ensure that we were not late for our flight which was due to depart in 4 1/2 hrs. Interesting tactic to play chicken with an approaching bollard in order to force a lane change on the bridge. He queue jumped about a km of traffic to a chorus of horns which he interpreted as songs of praise. Then he did it again! I've never seen someone shave 14 minutes off Google's ETA without actually speeding.Leia mais

  • Zero to Vero

    5 de dezembro de 2024, Estados Unidos ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We finally made it to Disney's Vero Beach resort. The drive was an hour longer than expected due to heavy traffic and because our online test didn't take peak hour into account. Our energy reserves were now zero. Groceries be damned, we grabbed counter service by the pool and went straight to bed. ZzzLeia mais

  • Picklejected

    6 de dezembro de 2024, Estados Unidos ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    I carried my paddle all this way but it's going to have to wait a little longer. We caught up on some much needed sleep but still managed microvisits to the grocery store, the beach, cornhole, putt putt and even the gym! The vibe here is Disney meets 1970s Gosford.. almost a little too relaxing.Leia mais

  • BogotA

    7 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The dragged-out route to Colombia has finally come to an end! The drive back to Miami was so much better without traffic and fatigue. We flew 3.5 hrs Latam direct to Bogota where we met Julio and Alejandro. We arrived in time for the start of the Christmas Festivals. Today there were parades, music and fireworks in the central square near our hotel but we were happy to watch them from the top floor hotel restaurant. We are now trying to stay awake for Elliot's arrival. Tomorrow the tour begins.Leia mais

  • My Kingdom for a Sats Probe

    8 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Monserrate and museums dominated today as we took a walking tour around the old city of Bogota.

    We began with a funicular ride up Mont Serrat that took us from 2650 to 3150m above sea level. As soon as we got off Jonah reported some pretty disturbing neurological signs consistent with a potential complication of acute mountain sickness. His lips were blue as well. The obvious answer was to descend but it was very reassuring to instantly encounter a team of 5 experienced paramedics who pulled out a sats probe and helped to settle him until we could go back down. The descent and hydration mostly fixed things but I was also able to buy some acetazolamide without a script which was handy. What a start to the trip! Fortunately it didn't get any more serious. We tailored the length and pace of the rest of the day which ended up being lovely.Leia mais

  • Pass the Salt

    9 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We left the watch-your-wallet hustle of downtown Bogota for the laid back countryside of Villa de Layve. Bogota is a sprawled city, like Sydney, so leaving the outskirts was like driving through Dural with the odd cow and market garden until eventually you leave the big smoke behind. We drove past the Nemocon Salt Mine which we explored on the way. It is the "First Wonder" of Colombia containing an elaborate cathedral plus a commercial centre.
    Update: Jonah is fine and we continue to descend so he'll live.
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  • Bus to Barichara

    11 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Not a pleasant minivan ride today. The aircon in the cab didn't work and we were stuck on the roadside for an hour waiting for the contra flow to go our way. It was a long 6 hours. We now have 3 nights in Barichara and first impressions of our resort are fantastic. We even made it into the pool. Early to bed tonight as we've got a physical challenge tomorrow!,Leia mais

  • Mala Comunicación

    12 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Our guide, Andy, arrived today and pretended not to speak English. It was pretty funny. He then pretended to not know about our hike...wait he wasn't pretending about that! Argh!!! His itinerary was somehow different to ours including (the included) lunch. Andy was more panicked than we were but he made it work and hike we did! We also had a wonderful lunch with enough food for Andy and his dog all reimbursed by the company. They also shouted us cocktails and pizza back at the hotel so all's well that ends well.Leia mais

  • Our own devices

    13 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Being left to your own devices takes on a different meaning these days. An unplanned day was nice so that we could chill and tidy up some loose ends. It also tested our resolve to explore our surroundings in a relatively safe part of Colombia. Fortunately the devices took a back seat.Leia mais

  • It Rhymes with Gin

    14 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Today was an extended transit day to Medellin which is pronounced, you guessed it, Meda (ghin). We spent the morning exploring a National Park before a nightmare 10 hours of transit for what originally was as a flight similar to Syd/Melb. Hey, we got there.Leia mais

  • Pablo's Patch

    15 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today we were taken by our new guide, Pablo, into the home of another famous Pablo: District 13 (The epicentre of Medellin's dark past).
    Medellin is a thriving, colourful, living city with huge community support to make everything work and to make everything safe.
    The legacy of Pablo has left such devastation, yet he also single handedly paid off the national debt and funded the railway system. 60 bombings per year, 500 police killed per year, uncountable indiscriminate kidnappings and murders and 21 all out intra-city battles between the army and the cartels or guerrillas meant that this deal with the devil was clearly not worth it. Medellinites now, however, are desperate to move forward into what the city can be. They care for their trains, which are immaculate and safe, the youth have found a path through hip hop culture and the city is full of music, joggers and people eating on the streets. Bogota now looks boring.
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  • Old Man River

    16 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    When we first thought of Columbia, part of the attraction was the dense wilderness and today we found it. A 2hr drive from Medellin took us to a rendezvous with Bananito, who became our new best friend as she took us 40 minutes further through tough terrain to the Santa Domingo River. Bananito, is a 1981 Nissan Patrol 4WD that creaks and clunks but never breaks down. You have to get out of the vehicle to switch between 2WD and 4WD. The river was isolated. We didn't see another soul except for a bird of prey that swooped down in front of us to pluck a fish from the water then fly downstream with it in its talons. The surrounds were just green. Green, dense and full of vines, moss and mist. We didn't want to kill our phones and the go pro turned out to be on a bad angle on my head. Hopefully the interrogation will enable some decent images to be attached later.Leia mais

  • Durin's Day

    17 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    We shifted base today from Medellin following the Cauca River to the south. Our new base will be near Puente Iglasius. First we stopped at a Coffee Factory in Tamesis. It's the first time I've seen beans being sorted mechanically rather than by a picky civet.
    Our main aim today was to see some Petroglyphs. To be honest it seemed like a bit of a filler to me when I saw it on the itinerary. How good could they be compared to our own 60000 yr old Aboriginal efforts? Let's just say they are apples and oranges and both are amazing. The journey there was an adventure in itself but the Petroglyphs were crazy. Rodrigo, the local guide described them as carved rock pictures only visible at certain times of day. We were sceptical as it sounded like a familiar fantasy in which moon letters appear to help open the secret door to the lonely mountain. Nevertheless, as the sun set crystal clear images began to appear on the rock formations!
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  • Go to Jerico!

    18 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today was a relatively lazy but fulfilling day. We started late so that we could enjoy the amazing Hacienda.
    First stop was Jerico: a small but ultra religious town from which the only Colombian Saint was canonized. Even here, however, they still have more soccer fields than churches.
    We were shown the methods of some of the artisans, sampled the best coffee we've had on the trip so far then moved on.
    Jardin is our home tonight. There were a ton of food trucks around and a big football game on. Most parts of Colombia are completely safe to walk around at night - it was nice to feel the buzz on the streets even for a little while.
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  • Alpha Alkaloid

    19 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I get to play with a lot of alkaloids, but the one that is nearest and dearest to my heart is 1,3,7- trimethylxanthine aka caffeine. All good anaesthetists know that the only thing before A is coffee so to go all the way to Colombia and not visit a coffee plantation would've been criminal.
    There are many plantations around Jardin and Pablo took us to one of the best. The experience was fulfilling for the coffee snobs and fun for the kids. I'm now going to down a couple of beers and melatonins or I might still be up at 6am.
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  • Fawlty Towers

    20 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Essentially a transit day. Not sure if we are having a run of bad luck or that's just how it is in South America, but our afternoon flight became an evening flight and then was delayed again. At least it was direct, but we did arrive quite late to our overnighter in Santa Marta where we were greeted by hotel receptionist who made Basil Fawlty seem like a highly competent angel. I'm sure we'll see the funny side... eventually! Photo included for location tracking.Leia mais

  • Minca

    21 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today was a 1hr hike to a waterfall and back near the town of Minca. We imagined an isolated pool, but the reality was backpacker central. It also didn't help that it wasn't our first stop as planned. It meant that the weather was already getting hot, and whilst it wasn't packed, it was far from isolated. On the plus side we racked up 15000 steps and had a beautiful dip in the waterfall's pool. During our travels south of Medellin we hardly saw a foreign tourist. It seems they were all in Minca!

    After lunch we drove for 90 minutes to our non-air-conditioned eco lodge which will be home for the next 3 nights. The welcome was incredibly warm especially from the 4 lodge Rhodesian Ridgebacks! I don't think the reception lady has seen a family so excited to see Ridgebacks before. The place is fascinating: between the beach, a river, a jungle covered cliff and a freeway! The grounds are beautiful. Hopefully the weather is too.
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  • The Real Deal

    22 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today ticked all the boxes of what I thought yesterday would be. We joined Christian, a birding guide who lived in Melbourne for a few years as a labourer, for a hike through 4 different terrains. This wasn't a boring road but a serious path with boulders, mudfields, vines, roots and the odd boardwalk. Christian had the eyes of a Kenyan safari guide as he brought animals and birds to our attention that we would've just walked past if we were alone. The walk and the destination were far superior to Minca. It was also much more intense: our truncated trip was 10km in ultra-humid conditions.Leia mais

  • Is Don, is Good

    23 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today we discovered just how varied the ecology is in Colombia. As we floated down the Rio Don Diego to its entry into the warm Caribbean Sea, we could lie back and see the snow atop the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountain range!
    In the afternoon we had a meet n greet with 2 Arhuaco women who demonstrated their basket weaving skills and shared their stories. The humidity and lack of air conditioning didn't kill us after all! Onwards to Cartegena tomorrow.
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  • A Glimpse of Cartegena

    24 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We took a van transfer to Cartegena in preparation for our boat journey to the Mucura Islands. The roads here are much flatter and wider than those in the mountains so it felt liberating to be zooming along at 100kph and above. It was still a 5 1/2 hr journey. Our hotel is in the middle of the old city which looks a bit like a Pirates of the Caribbean set, but all the extras keep trying to sell us stuff. This is the first time that we've experienced pressure from street sellers in Colombia and the first time that I've felt the need to wear my backpack facing the front. We FaceTimed the families for Christmas Eve, rejigged our gear for the island and took a mini walk around the hotel area to check out the Christmas lights and grab some dinner. We'll be back to check out the city properly in a few days so I'll reserve judgement until then.Leia mais

  • Christmas Day Cricket

    25 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    What's the only thing better than watching Sam Kontas kill it at the G on Boxing Day? Watching him do it on Christmas Day... from a tropical island... with a beer!!

    Mucura Island is home for 3 nights. The natural surrounds are beautiful. The resort itself leans slightly more towards Club Med than 7 star, but we'll survive. Importantly for Bel the aircon in the room is fantastic. Importantly for the kids there is reasonable wifi. That means I can enjoy the cricket, a book and a beer. I might be tempted to not post again until we get back to Cartegena!Leia mais

  • Soggy Exit

    26 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We left our Island hideout after a fun few days. There was plenty of time spent in hammocks, on day-beds, in the water, in the room watching Squid Games 2, eating, drinking: repeat.

    The significant deviations were:
    - swimming amongst bioluminescent plankton at night
    - running away from Iguanas (they swim!)
    - kayaking around the Island
    - trying to hide a huge, but tasteless cake that they gave us for Elliot's 22nd birthday.

    3 nights was just right. We left completely satisfied and then completely drenched as horizontal rain appeared from nowhere to give Jonah the shower that he was supposed to have already had.

    A freebie tour to see the mangrove tunnels and fishing village back in Cartegena was a nice way to finish a few days by the water.
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  • Colours of Cartegena

    29 de dezembro de 2024, Colômbia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We've been settling in to the Caribbean vibe of Cartegena. Despite the cruise ships and the holiday season the streets seem a little less chaotic than our first brief impression. The spruikers are still out trying to make a living, but they are good natured and pretty funny at times. We were given a run down of the colourful history of Cartegena, but you can infer most of it just from opening your eyes. A sheltered harbour provided the perfect trade entrance to South America from the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic. It was a highly desirable destination for European colonisers, merchants, slave traders, pirates you name it. All these influences are seen in the food, the music, the accents and even of the features of the population. Cartegena lacks the natural beauty of the mountains, but it is certainly colourful and packs a lot more spice.Leia mais