Days 8 & 9: Khiva

Sleep hasn't come very easily but I'm exhilarated by the view outside of utter desert. It's part of a swathe of wilderness that stretches from Iran to western China. This forms part of the Kyzyl Kum or Red Desert; it's not really red in colour but the absence of any vegetation apart from scrub is very Martian.

The land gets green again with irrigation around Urgench. Formerly the train terminated here but the line has recently been extended to the historic town of Khiva. Relatively small at about 80,000 people, it's been going for about 2,500 years and the medieval town within the walls is a finely preserved network of streets and alleyways, with a wealth of mosques and madrassas. Almost a museum, in fact.

I discover that young couples like to dress up and parade around historic monuments with a photographer in tow. In some sites you may find maybe 5 wedding parties all with an entourage of chief guests and bridesmaids. This indicates that Uzbeks are not particularly camera shy; in fact with with so many visitors from other Uzbek cities taking selfies they can hardly object when I ask for their picture.

The 5th image here is of silk weavers, a reminder of the road I am on, while the 6th is of the national drink, green tea. At the chai khane (tea shop) where I am drinking this, the manager asks if I'm related to the Uzbekistan football coach. I've taken a good tan from the Uzbek sun but I haven't realised it's as good as that of Hector Cuper, the Argentine coach of this country!Read more