Days 5-7: Francis Drake was here

The great sea dog (or pirate) stopped here on his round-the-world voyage. A fortress was built some time afterwards by the Spanish but the city proper wasn't founded until 200 years ago. I get here by colectivo from Havana in a comfortable 3 hours. The casa particular which I have booked has mysteriously sold out but the proprietor, Irene, leads me to another one run by a friend, Yanet (left in the picture). Yanet speaks excellent English and makes me feel at home. There are just two rooms and a balcony where breakfast is served and provides a brilliant view of the Prado, the dual carriageway running the length of the city. I have got a minor ailment which she soothes with a cup of camomile and later anis tea, and within 24 hours all is well.

Christmas is upon us and the locals aren't slow to celebrate it. In fact despite the officially atheist regime, the larger churches are still popular and the cathedral notice board posts a sign saying "turn off your mobile/cellphone during Mass; someone wants to speak to your heart". A sign of the times.

The city has a wonderful sense of space and the main plaza (Parque Marti, named after the 19th century figure killed in battle in his quest to liberate the country) would be big enough for a football pitch were it not for the bandstand and monuments in the way. another tremendous monument in the south of the city is the Palacio de Valle. About 100 years old, it's an upmarket restaurant and it would be rude not to stop for a coffee.Read more