Days 8 & 9: breakfast at Trinity's

A colectivo takes me the 1 1/2 hour run to Trinidad. This one has additional sideways seating behind the passenger row. The inscription reads "May God multiply everything that you wish". In this spirit, because the roads in the town centre are too bumpy for transport, the driver walks me to the casa particular. And what a casa it is! In this Colonial mansion the ceilings are over twice the height of a person and the rooms are stacked with all kinds of antique appliances (see typewriter). Anita and her husband are charming hosts. Breakfast is served on the balcony with a fine view of the old town and the distant Caribbean. And it's as healthy as it gets with a wealth of tropical fruits---bananas, pineapple, papaya, and guayaba (guava), full of seeds but the pulpy juice served separately is delicious. No missing out on one's daily five here.

Trinidad was a 16th century backwater until a sugar boom in the 18th century. The cobbled streets of the old centre are a bit chocolate boxey for some tastes but the street life is active. There's a lot of pride in the African heritage from descendants of the plantation workers and the thumping drums from santeria ceremonies is hard to resist. So are the ice creams served by these ladies in green (although their companion on the right seems camera-shy). Oblivious to everything except their game, these domino players (domineros in Spanish?) choose a shady spot.Read more