Days 12 & 13: not the Caribbean

With a short roadside stop, a colectivo takes me back to Havana. Once again I'm staying in Habana Centro but in a different guest house. It's called the Caribena but as most people know, the island's capital with its magnificent Malecon (waterfront) faces the Gulf of Mexico. Along its 3-mile length it's popular with walkers, fishermen, tourists and selfie-takers. Maria Antonia, who runs the Caribena, is a considerate host and organises an excellent breakfast. There's a problem in the bathroom but she explains how to stop the lavatory from leaking. An engineering lesson in Spanish!

Back to walking ways, I cover the wonderful backstreets of Habana Centro little seen by tourists. Once again I'm struck by street after street of mansions and palaces that have fallen on hard times. And such lovely names: Concordia, Salud (health) and Lealtad (loyalty) to name a few. UNESCO have taken the lead in restoring the oldest part of the city but Centro remains neglected. For all its faded elegance, living conditions here must be quite tough. Czytaj więcej