Almost the Caribbean

Thanks to another good road, the 3-hour bus journey from the capital to the town on Samana is straightforward. Moving on isn't quite as easy: it's hard to work out where to get transport, until a helpful policewoman walks me to a place where I can flag down a guagua. Pronounced "wa-wa" and seeming to mimic the noise from their horns, these redoubtable vehicles are vans seating around 15 passengers and will stop anywhere on the route to pick up or drop off people. Yet again I appreciate the value of travelling light, with the small backpack on my knees.

The Samana pensinsula is several things that Punta Cana is not: low rise, quiet and peaceful. Its' actually on the Atlantic but might as well be the Caribbean. I'm staying at an excellent French-run hotel in the small town of Las Galeras. and a view from the balcony shows that it's not short of plant life. The streets have a pleasant outdoor atmosphere and the town is well worth a few days stay.

Some people come to the peninsula for whale watching, this being the middle of the calving season. I'm here however mainly to indulge in the world-class tropical beaches, for which the two men outside the tour agency are negotiating a trip. Complete with a supply of cold drinks. But there are two caveats: my guide book has several nasty little warnings about robberies on the beaches. It's depressing to have to be careful even in idyllic places like this and I hope they just advise not to leave valuables on the beach while going for a swim. Another discomfort is the boat trip to what's advertised as Las 3 Playas. It's by speedboat carrying about 12 passengers and with the choppy water, it's a rollercoaster. Every 30 seconds my heart is in my mouth as the boat takes a plunge to a trough and then peaks to the next wave. It's a wonder my back stays in one piece.

But...but...the ride takes us to Fronton, Playita (for lunch) and Rincon beaches and they are all world class. And for the final picture, I don't need a boat at all---just a 10-minute walk from my hotel to watch golden hour.Read more