Day 48 - Laza - 14.1 km

Weather: 7 - 11 degrees, cloudy
Clothes: The same but no rain jacket.

Desayunos - Breakfast
The temperature this morning was a surprising 7 degrees - Juan and I both said it was ‘hot’. 🥵 😂
I think the Bar opened at 7.30 am just for us. Last night the hostess seemed to say that she expected us there at 7.30 am for breakfast. I was only 10 minutes late (Juan arrived 5 minutes after me) and a different lady was standing out the front seemingly looking for us - looking a bit tired and grumpy. And I didn’t blame her.
Anyway, the coffee and toast was such a treat - particularly as there was no coffee at all yesterday and only coffee at lunch time the day before. I heartily thanked our hostess and she seemed to cheer up as she wished us a Buen Camino.
I have read that coffee can be a pain killer and also that people who drink coffee are less depressed.
All I can say is that my mood this morning was vastly improved over yesterday (all day) and the morning of the day before. Although I did sleep for about 12 hours yesterday afternoon and evening- my no coffee day.

The walk - a very happy day
The weather today has been perfect for walking. Cloudy and warm but still cool enough to stay refreshed while walking.
The route today is about 2.5 km more uphill to the small village of Portocambo and then down the other side of the mountain to Laza. We also passed through a number of very small villages which have some completely tumbled down houses as well as some that have been lovingly renovated. In one tiny village there is a self serve stop for pilgrims (chair, table, snacks, coffee- though it was cold) and also a very upmarket Casa de Rural for those wanting a more comfortable mountain holiday.
The trail was a mixture of bitumen and dirt side roads through mixed forest with lots of views over the near and far mountains. It was a beautiful day.
The closer mountains are mainly pine plantations with small sections of mixed forest.
The sounds today are - boots on gravel, boots on pine needles, boots on grass: walking poles clicking on the road: babbling rivers: a few bird songs: lots of silence.
Right now I am about 3 km from Laza sitting on an outcropping of rock listening to the river and looking at the view over the valley to the mountains beyond (in between writing). It’s coming to midday and there is no need for me to hurry anywhere. I love these shorter days where I don’t feel I have to hurry to a destination and can stop as many times as I like for as long as I like.
Laza is a lovely little town. There was a souvenir shop near where we picked up the keys for the albergue and I bought myself a souvenir scarf to replace the one I left behind - similar colours too.
The Albergue is brand new - they haven’t completed putting in the bunk side lights. But everything else is great. There are keys for every door - and we even have wifi- unheard of in municipal albergues. I think the Galician government has spent some time and money upgrading their albergues. I imagine that the Camino Sanabres will become much more popular as the Frances is now so busy.
Juan and I are having the usual late lunch together. He is probably going to do the 33 km stage tomorrow so this may be our last walking day together.
It’s now later in the afternoon and I am sitting in the lounge area on a couch with my peppermint tea finishing this entry. Luxury.

Buen Camino

The body
This morning I felt tired in my body and felt the need for more rest. The last few days have had some very steep climbs and challenging terrain. Doing a short day today has left me feeling refreshed and able to continue. I will have a rest day in Ourense in three days time - two shorter days and one long day. Then fun in the hot springs.

Reflection on Campobecerros
As I was walking this morning I came across a memorial for three people who had been shot by the fascists in 1936. I imagine that trauma can stay in a town for generations. Was that one of the reasons I felt a bit depressed there?Read more