Camino Sanabrés

octubre - noviembre 2022
Extension of Via de la Plata Leer más

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  • España
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Viaje en solitario, Espiritualidad
  • 566kilómetros recorridos
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  • 26huellas
  • 22días
  • 260fotos
  • 42Me gusta
  • Day 55 - A Laxa - 31.6 km

    14 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Weather: 6 - 13 degrees. Rain predicted.
    Clothes: Same as yesterday

    Celebration 🎉🎉🙏🌞😄😇🥰😮‍💨🌈💕
    I walked 31 km today with my pack - because there was no accommodation between last night and A Laxe - and with one long and difficult climb this morning. And I’m still standing.

    Inner preparation
    After last nights Vespers it took me a long time to get to sleep and I wondered how the day would go. I gave my self permission to get a taxi if needed but as I left this morning it felt like the body would/ could do this long day. I estimated 10 hours which would give me time for intermittent short breaks and a long lunch break.

    The walk
    I started of with my French companion in the dark (7.30 am) on what turned out to be an extended climb along a rocky and steep water course. I realise now that this could be called a slightly technical climb as I had to constantly look at where I was putting my feet and plan ahead to find the most dry and easiest way up. I have walked (climbed) so many of these now that I sort of know the ropes - or rocks - as it were.
    However this was a long climb in the dark and needed lots of concentration, planning and quick reactions. It was physically and mentally demanding - and tiring. I remembered other times when I wondered if these sorts of challenges would ever end. Now when that thought arose I knew it was pretty silly - this would end - and just kept going. My legs were a bit wobbly towards the final ascent but with a few rests I got to the top.
    We had a wonderful companion for the first 6 km. The huge black dog that belonged to the monastery walked with us. My French amigo said she often had dog companions. She walked on faster than me and told me later that when she got to a particular small village the dog sat and looked at her to see that she was continuing in the correct direction and then turned and headed for home.
    The rest of the day was relatively easy. A few ups but mainly down - and again through the lovely Galician country side.
    The landscape became more open as the day progressed with more villages and settlements along the way. And more cows.
    I had a number of short stops for breakfast, snacks, more coffee and a full lunch at 3 pm.
    I arrived at the albergue at 5.30 pm. My 10 hour estimate was correct. For me eating the right sort of food at the right time is so important. I finished the day tired, but after a shower and a peppermint tea I feel fine. Tomorrow is a short day to give the body time to recover.
    Interestingly I feel like I’m waking up from a long (Camino) dream refreshed and curious about what lies ahead. 🙃🙂😇

    Buen Camino
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  • Day 56 - Silleda - 9 km

    15 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Weather: 9 - 13 degrees; with 70% rain predicted all day
    Clothes: The same but traded short sleeves for long sleeve merino top. Feeling a bit cold and tired today. Changed into short sleeve top as it got warm during the morning.

    The morning
    The night was a bit disrupted with the sound of torrential rain and banging barn doors - and it was still raining when I woke. Oops not good - I was very happy I was only walking 9.5 km today. Then I looked up the weather forecast and it said no rain between 8.30 am and 1.00 pm. Just the window I need. Gratitude abounds 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
    When I got up I noticed that the body was tired and feet a bit sore - just from so many k’s - no blisters or other issues.
    There are three Spanish men here today (and yesterday) with voices that seem to echo and project even when they are talking normally. They were chatting in the kitchen last night and woke me just before 10 pm. It took a long time to get back to sleep so with two nights of short sleep I am also sleepy tired.
    So again happy I am doing a short day today. 💜😀

    The day of bridges
    Apart from the continuing beauty of Galicia this has been a day of bridges - a magnificent new road bridge, an older but still magnificent rail bridge and Ponte Taboada over the river La Deza.
    The Ponte Taboada was a part of the old Roman route north. It has been, and still is part of the pilgrimage route to Santiago. It was rebuilt in the 10th century and has had subsequent renovations.
    The old road and the bridge itself were a delight.
    The sun came out completely as I crossed over the bridge and the sky became blue. Blessings abound.
    I got to Silleda around 11.30 am, had a hot chocolate and went to Albergue Santa Olaia. It’s part of a school and I can hear the kids at play and in class. I have a twin room to myself so I will be able to rest up as much as I want. I think I was the only one in the albergue. It was a bit cold and vast but I had a heater in my room, plenty of blankets and hot showers. What more could I want.
    I’ve been in Spain for so long now that things are beginning to look and feel normal - just in a different language. I will probably have a bit of culture shock when I get home.
    It’s only 40 km to Santiago.

    Burn Camino
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  • Fungi of Galicia

    15 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    I saw a lot of different mushrooms over the past couple of weeks. I thought the fungi lovers might enjoy seeing a few.
    Also a nod to my Latvian heritage where mushrooming is a national pastime - even the president goes mushrooming.Leer más

  • Day 57 - Ponte Ulla - 20.8 km

    16 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Weather: 10 - 15 degrees: rain predicted all day.
    Clothes: the same - it’s not that cold

    Wet weather blues
    I had a pretty good night’s sleep last night (but not long enough) in my solo room and softer bed. The municipal albergue beds can be extraordinarily firm, even for me.
    But I woke up feeling blue because of the weather - specifically rain.

    Things are rarely as they seem.
    As it turned out the rain was fine and misty and the temperature was warm. It wasn’t so bad.
    I planned to stop at Dornella and arrived at midday. However the hospitalaro tried to convinced me to do another 8 km to Ponte Ulla. He is having some problems with the heater in the dorm and the temporary gas heater has to be turned off at 9.00 pm. And there is no food at all in Dornella. Dinner is served at the albergue at 8.00 pm - too late for me. It is a lovely albergue in a quiet rural setting but after a rest and further chat I decided to go on.

    Today was a day of small villages, timber plantations and timber harvesting, and again country lanes.
    I got to Ponte Ulla around 3.00 pm and had a rich and filling lentil soup before searching out the albergue.
    I even thought about walking another 4 km to O Outeiro but then decided against it. It’s 20 km to Santiago so it seems I will be there tomorrow - 8 weeks and 2 days.
    The albergue here is fine - a Bar / Restaurant downstairs that opens at 7.00 am. The only down side is my solo room has no window. ☹️☹️☹️ A reminder of my first hostel in Sevilla but this one is half the price.
    However the bed is soft with blankets and sheets and there is a heater that works. I lay down as soon as I got in and fell asleep for an hour. A relaxing and restful evening ahead.

    Buen Camino
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  • Day 58 - Santiago - 22.4 km

    17 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Weather: 9 - 15 degrees, another rainy day
    Clothes: The same. It seems that when it was really cold there was virtually no rain and now there is rain it’s not so cold. 🙏.

    The walk
    An early 7.30 am start in the dark. The mind and feelings somewhat wondering and worrying about the usual things.
    I met an Austrian pilgrim who was convinced it would rain. My weather forecast said not. But it did pour down for about an hour or maybe two - I hope he was satisfied. 😂
    For me it cleared up and alternated between clear and light rain. All OK by me and it was warm walking so double OK.
    The countryside was the usual villages, country lanes and back roads. There was more timber harvesting today. Life goes on regardless of how many pilgrims trudge past.
    Arrived at Santiago at 1.30 pm. A lovely last day of Via de la Plata / Sanabres

    Santiago reflections
    Arriving today seems inevitable. I’m not talking about arriving at Santiago. That was always going to happen aside from an unforeseen event.
    But today - 17 November - as being that day, feels inevitable; like no matter what my plans might have been this was always going to be the day. I have tried to ‘stretch out’ the last stages given my flight to Australia isn’t till the end of the month.
    However today is the day. And it has been perfect.
    On my first Camino (Frances) I think I was just in a daze coming into Santiago. On my second Camino I came in from Portugal at dawn when the whole city was still and golden - a wonderful experience - I wanted the walk in to last forever.
    This time I felt like I was in a river of energy that carried me along- no more stops, no more delays, keep going, keep moving. Today was definitely the day.
    As I came through the outskirts and then into the old city the mind was quiet. I really didn’t know what to expect this time and was wondering how it would be. I haven’t had any big insights or spiritual experiences in this Camino. Just me walking one day at a time.
    As I came closer to the cathedral I felt a sweet, golden and peaceful feeling. It was subtle and gentle and words can’t really describe it. But it was there and different from anything that came before in the last 8 weeks.
    Of course another Camino Angel was there to greet me. Lovely young French/Spanish Agnes, who has been at the same albergues for the past week, was also walking in today. When I first saw her in Oseira I was sure I had met her before - on a Camino: but no.
    Today we met at a cafe and then parted. Then as I arrived at the cathedral there she was. Photos were taken and at her initiative we went for our Compostellas. Agnes knew exactly where to go, having walked many Camino’s. She also found the best value hostel close to the Cathedral.
    And she organised to go to the 7.30 pm mass where the countries that the pilgrims come from are announced. One peregrina from Australia. 😄😄😄

    I’ve booked two nights at the hostel and will then start for Muxia. I think I am looking forward to that. My weather anxieties seem to be in check now.

    Look out for the next chapter.

    PS - added a year later
    Agnes, the bicycle guys and another young man and I all went for drinks in the evening at Agnes’s invitation. I was only going to come for a short while but we all ended up drinking and talking (did we eat?) till after midnight. I discovered that all my fears about being able to do the Via had nothing to do with my age - the young man (whose name I have forgotten) had all the same fears too.
    Needless to say I felt a bit seedy the next day.

    Buen Camino
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  • Santiago

    18 de noviembre de 2022, España ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Some more pics - going backwards.

    It was lovely coming in from Camino Sanabres. Through ordinary suburbs and lovely streets of the old town.

    PS - Added a year later - 18 Nov 2023
    I somehow didn’t journal this day which I spent in Santiago. Here are my memories of this day last year and my reflections that arose as I wrote.

    After a slow start to the morning I went to Ivar’s bag storage to collect a few things (eg. down jacket) from my bag that I had posted to him from Sevilla. Ivar is lovely and we had a nice chat. I sorted out my clothes for the walk to Muxia etc.

    I remember that I went to Mass and really enjoyed it - more than the day before. The sermon was delivered in Spanish but I seemed to understand the intent. Something like - You have walked this pilgrimage, overcome challenges, made discoveries; now as you go home it is the time to digest and embody this experience; to take this presence, essence, courage, strength with you into your daily life.

    I also had a rather unsatisfactory lunch at a place in the little square - swings and roundabouts.

    Buen Camino
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