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Balls go Baltic
  • Andrea Ball
  • Andrea Ball

Balls go Baltic

Time to explore new waters in our trimaran Whisper as we head off this summer. Läs mer
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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Kastelholm

    7 juli, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We set off motoring with the sun shining.
    We passed through the smallest of canals, just 0.2nm, (Lemströms Kanal) with the hourly opening bridge ready for the rush hour - just 2 boats going through each end. This opened into Lumparn Bay (5.5 nm x 4.5nm)
    The north easterly winds were building as we headed into the heart of Åland for shelter tonight. Mooring up here with bow hook up on the buoy and stern to was a bit of a challenge with the wind and protecting the rudder and prop from Whispers desire to swing in the wind.

    Once ashore we had fun exploring the medieval castle, one of only five surviving Finnish medieval fortresses .First constructed in the 1380s, Kastelholm Castle was a military and administrative centre for the region, which then formed part of the Swedish Empire. Successive Swedish and Danish governors continued to maintain and expand Kastelholm Castle over the next two hundred years and the castle was briefly home to Swedish King Gustav I, before he became the monarch.
    Kastelholm Castle later lost its position as the administrative centre of the region and in 1745 a fire devastated the structure.
    Since the early 20th century, the site was transformed into a museum.
    We were fascinated by the Vita Björn (White Bear) prison which was built next to the castle in 1784. The prison was in use for almost two centuries - last in use in 1975 !
    Also next to the castle is the Jan Karlsgården whuch is an outdoor museum consisting of several old farm buildings that have been transported here from different parts of Åland which recreates 19th century life in the region.
    The whole setting was a step back in time. The magnificent midsummer pole still beautifully adorned surrounded by granary, boat house, farmhouses and stabling for ox and horses . Gorgeous yet simple boundary fencing to keep the grey fleecy Åland sheep from straying. I was lucky enough to find the exquisite wild orchids .

    Back at the harbour we enjoyed a lovely meal in the giant glass house at the watersedge with all the other Fin's sheltering from the breeze. We had an evening stoll and watched a young group playing Frisby golf - quite a challenge with so many trees to navigate!

    We had such a great day and it was such a well organised harbour with very welcoming staff with good facilities.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Sottunga

    8 juli, Finland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    60° 06.583 N
    20° 40.962 E

    We decided to make the most of the northerly wind and head to the Eastern Åland islands and this harbour would give us the prospect of making it over to the mainland if time was on our side and ofcourse favourable winds later on.
    It was a fairly long motor sail arriving in beautiful sunshine . We were guided to a suitable spot behind a Polish boat and spon after a beautiful old wood boat came alongside them. We shared our stories and the different waters we've all sailed. Such friendly people.
    The stroll ashore to pay the mooring fees in the bar led to a quick drink before supper ashore too as we soaked up the warmth of the early evening sun. The special platters of beef and fish respectively for the captain and I were great and the Åland pancakes with prune sauce and cream - a regional speciality we thought we'd give a go. Not the usual pancake more of a baked pancake or custard made from cooked semolina, baked with flour, eggs and flavoured with cardamom. It's not really my thing but we gave it a try!

    The evening stroll led up to the wooden church built in 1730 that replaced a chapel destroyed by fire . All immaculately cared for.
    The following morning weather looked to stay sunny so we decided to cycle the island and give Whisper a good airing. This island had a large amount of farming going on . Beautiful fields outlined with wild flowers . Hay pastures being cut . So different to other islands we've visited. The homesteads of the village are located in the same area as in the early Middle Ages. In those days
    the dwellings were built on the shore of the strait that passed through the present day Sottungalandet. Due to the post glacial rebound the strait has disappeared and the farmsteads are
    now located in two villages; the southern Södra Byn and the northern Norra Byn. We passed by the midsummer pole on the red gravel roads.
    By the time we returned we were hot so I decided it was a chance to get in my most my most northerly swim . At 11°C cool down ✔️!    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    2

    Sälsö - 60°04.25N 20°45.41E

    9 juli, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We left Sottunga about midday in beautiful calm waters and the sunniest of days. We had decided on a short stop to explore the archipelago. This inlet worked as a perfect anchorage and lunch base. Relaxation! Waters still enough to get the paints out for watercolour sketching. We whiled away the hours and decided an overnight here would be great and wanting to use the rock wedges and rings this was a chance to tie up to a rock in this perfect setting with amazing weather. Stunning views from the top of the rocks - watching the sunset at 22:58hrs - magical.Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    Chart showing vast numbers of rock and the narrow shallow channel to KarlbyChecking out the bread shedBread shedRuins of Franciscan monastery .Whisper bow in the reeds .The multi hull spot!

    Karlby- Kökar

    10 juli, Finland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    The scenery from Sälsõ around the low-lying islands gave an exceptionally beautiful route. We made the most of the sun and were up early to leave our rock and get the code0 up for the light north westerly wind to arrive before the rush in this popular harbour with tight mooring space. The chart photo shows the 'keep your eyes open' route with all the marked rocks and the narrow shallow channel approach into Karlby. The 'hi vis' harbour guy was right on us, guiding us helpfully in full air traffic controller signal mode to the spot dedicated to multi hulls . It seemingly was the only spot in amongst the reeds end on to the pontoon, but it was 'a spot' & we were just grateful to have got it! One by one, the boats came in carefully, smoothly all under the very capable guidance of buzzing 'hi vis' guy , who all afternoon and into the evening ran back and forth along the harbourside .

    By the time hi vis guy was bar side we had enjoyed lunch at the restaurant followed by a tour on our bikes exploring the island. The laundry slot was booked whilst we enjoyed listening to the live music from visiting American duo touring Europe all the way from Georgia.

    Kökar is known to be one of the more isolated and distinctive islands in the south eastern region & Karlby is the county town on Kökar . Åland has just a couple of hundred inhabitants or so & many have multiple jobs to maintain the island life and connections and manage the municipal finances.

    Our afternoon bike ride took us all around the island visiting the church and the ruins of the Franciscan monastery from the Middle Ages.

    Obviously, the bread shed had to be checked out.

    In the past the economy was based almost entirely on fishing and hunting. Most important was the seasonal fishing for the Baltic herring that took place at the outmost skerries Ören and Mörskär. Every year in August, the men moved out there for six weeks in order to fish enough herring to sell at the autumn markets in Stockholm, Helsinki and Tallinn.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Möholm

    11–12 juli, Finland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    With the change in wind direction to easterlies the chance to head west was upon us, which meant we must use it to head back and to accept the moment had passed to make it across to Turku or Helsinki and then get back in the given timescale. (Some other time hopefully)
    Arriving in the evening here due to the nasty rain storm that went through Karlby in the morning, which had most of us waiting for it to clear. The long motor sail was bright but cooler, which had me back in 3 coats whilst Ron had his 3 navigational friends Ray, Lennie & Sammy to help confirm the route through the outlying skerries in southern Äland.

    A peaceful anchorage and early night in readiness for our crossing to Sweden tomorrow.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    The awning that Ron had its outing!

    Högmarsö

    12–13 juli, Sverige ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We left the Åland islands at 10.15am ( somewhere along the way the clocks went back) and we arrived here after a relatively slow and bumpy journey of 50nmiles - 8 hours later just in time before the rain started!

    We'd read up on this surreal harbour in the northern Stockholm archipelago. It sounded so bizarre we just had to make the extra few miles to see what it was about. Great huge ships, some just rotting away sat in multi layers , others used as homes . The weirdest place with a working boat yard , cranes, slipways and winching machinery along the waterfront and in behind some opulent Swedish homes jarring with the scruffy ship yard and warehouse look.

    The ship yard restaurant with outside eclectic mix sofa and benches under large sail awnings lead you into a carefully designed restaurant. Local photographs , plants, and industrial vents and pipes give the place authentic character . Great staff and delicious food - a real buzz and atmosphere . It was obvious this place had a thriving business - their excellent reputation was clearly pulling large numbers and people were arriving in smart ribs (as well as cars) from their waterside homes from near and possibly further afield islands .

    We awoke the next day to the ferry's fog horn and the splatter of rain on deck. Eugh!!
    Consequently, we made a slow start, hoping the weather would improve.
    Ron's desire to make use of all the things we've got on the boat meant as soon as I mentioned we could try out the awning to protect us from the rain , off he went & out it came ! Half an hour of putting it up, and the rain had stopped! So we took it down again.🤣
    I picked up a few provisions and a mooch about the small boutique - a little something for the visitors and they stocked a few brands that we have back at Wroes!

    The morning turned from damp to warm and humid, so we left the quirky shipyard and headed towards the inner Stockholm archipelago.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    Showing the original barbed wire.

    Kyrkogärdson- Siaröfortet

    13 juli, Sverige ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    This was a completely spontaneous stop. We were enjoying meandering through the skerries, and in passing close by, Ron spotted military guns, so we decided to go and investigate. What seemingly felt like just another high rocky island as we tied up on the pontoon, revealed, just a short walk hidden behind the trees, the Siaröfortet. Blasted out of the massive rocks and then cemented over and camouflaged by appearing to look like the smooth archipelago rock. What a discovery! We were able to go under /into the fort and explore more with our hard hats - mine on my head , Ronneys in his hand ! It was extremely damp and leaky, making it cold and eerie. The fort was vast and spanned the majority of the island. A warren of officers rooms, bunks, search lights , boilers, mess , washing and communal toilets! Outside the domed smooth structure with look outs, and trenches along the length of the fort and guns also camouflaged on top of the concrete structure.

    So here's the history bit !

     The idea to face the enemy farther out in the archipelago to crucially serve as defence for Stockholm and the facilities in a concealed manner - to see without being seen was key. In 1914, in a turbulent time with the prospect of a world war, the Riksdag decided to construct an outer fortification line. It comprised a number of batteries and minefields in an arc off Vaxholm so that the enemy could be stopped at a distance. The fortifications also served as support for the navy, which had one of its bases on Skeppsholmen island in the centre of Stockholm.

     On this island of Kyrkogårdsön, formerly
    used as a cholera cemetery, the construction of Siarö Fortress began in 1916. Construction was problematic, but by 1926, it was complete. However, it was not until 1928/29 that all the installations were in place. The armaments then consisted of two 15.2 cm cannons. There were also outer fortifications with a mine
    station and two mobile 57 mm cannons
    Battlefield lighting was a 150 cm searchlight ( see photos)
    that was hoisted up through a shaft, and two 90 cm searchlights. In addition, the fortress was surrounded by five rows of assault obstacles and several trenches.

    One major problem was that water leaked
    into the fortress. The heating plant could not keep moisture away, and the problem became so serious that quartering inside the fortress was banned. The ten-year construction period in addition had meant that the fortress was obsolete by the time of its completion. As
    early as the beginning of the 1930s, the
    decision-was made to move the defensive line even further out in the archipelago.
    Siarö Fortress was decommissioned in 1939,    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Stora Hästnacken

    13–14 juli, Sverige ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We house hunted or rather island hunted along the way. Contemplating the ultimate island setting and requirements. So many of the houses we've seen on these islands have been incredibly beautiful and often in very different styles. Just like the islands , you never know what you're going to get !

    We hadn't really thought about the additional time it would take to get to this lovely anchorage after our spur of the minute stop at Siaröfortet especially as we were motoring, but we decided once we arrived it was absolutely worth it .
    The sunsetting slowly enabled us to sit and enjoy the warmth with a late supper on board as it dropped behind the trees.
    Just us and a fisherman.
    Busy they said ? Just busy enough!    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Fjäderholmen

    14–15 juli, Sverige ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    On wending our way through the skerries on a scenic route to this main island, Stora Fjäderholmen of the Fjãderholmarna in the inner Stockholm archipelago, we came passed Vaxholm, where the large 16th century fortress stood imposingly on its own islet whilst ferries & motor boats zoomed about the place bumping us along in their wake. The ferries don't mess around in these parts with 8 or more docking stations that swiftly pick up and drop off passengers & and whisk them off to the various island stops around the archipelago. Vaxholm, a relatively large municipality and regarded as the capital of the Stockholm archipelago looked like an interesting area - bustling with boats and people as we slowly passed through, just like proper old tourists getting in the way of the locals! Somewhere to note for another time, perhaps.

    The harbour guide advised this marina as the best one to avoid ferry bounce and swell , but we weren't convinced. As we explored ashore, the neighbouring marina seemed calmer, but after the tricky buoy and stern to mooring in a fairly awkward and bouncy spot, we decided to stay put tonight. We enjoyed a meal ashore watching the water world go by. The Viking line ferry created a huge swell as usual, and by the time we'd returned to Whisper, one of our stern lines had come off! We clearly needed to rethink the lines and wait to check the next big surge.

    We walked out to take in the views across to Stockholm and the artist studios - workshops in ceramics , wood & textiles. We enjoyed the guest artist work of Matilda Skoglund in the art studio. Her cows were full of character, and the street views made me want to explore Stockholm even more. Find her work at ...
    www.matildaskoglund.se

    Just in case you wanted a bit more history ..... in 1918, the Swedish Navy took over Fjäderholmarna, setting up military facilities for storage and the manufacture of ammunition, e.g., for torpedo boats

    Fjäderholmarnas location was ideal, far enough from the capital to not pose a safety risk and close enough to quickly supply Stockholm's armed forces with
    ammunition.

    At the outbreak of WWII, a total ban on landing was issued, and all civilians left the islands.
    Many of the current buildings on the islands were built during the naval
    period. In addition, several caverns were blasted into the rock here on Stora Fjäderholmen, quays and concrete roads were built, and anti-aircraft
    guns were deployed. At the peak, 150-200 people lived and worked on
    the islands in the war years, with both women and men staffing the
    workshops. The Navy gradually left Fjäderholmarna and in 1982, the
    islands were taken over by the Royal Djurgården Administration. The
    landing ban was lifted, and the buildings took on new functions.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Stockholm by water

    15 juli, Sverige ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We couldn't be this close to Stockholm and not show Whisper the sights, so we made a fairly early departure to head in and hoped the timing meant the ferries weren't yet at full swing!

    The feeling of coming into this beautiful city on Whisper was very special. I'm so glad we made the most of this opportunity. What a stunning view of the city from the water - even the sun came out!

    The wonderful sculpted water fountain visible as we entered the city is one of the most famous known as "God, our Father, on the Rainbow" by Carl Milles, located in Nacka Strand. It depicts God standing on top of 23 metre tall water spout. The work was designed in the 1940s and intended to stand in New York outside the United Nations. That plan was not realized, but in 1995, this version was installed.

    The National Museum & along from there is the  "af Chapman" a full-rigged steel sailing ship moored on the Skeppsholmen island creating a picture of bygone eras. A former freighter and training ship, built in 1888 but since 1949 it has been a youth hostel.

    Gamla Stan from the water - gorgeous architecture and the distinctive colours on its own island primarily Stadsholmen
    Grona Lund leisure theme park in Royal Djurgården
    The Vasa Museum with the 3 masts on the roof in the distance beyond .

    The city is, not surprisingly, built on fourteen islands with 57 connecting bridges and connects to the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren - such a great city to explore with waterways a plenty, bringing not just the history & land into its dna but all that Sweden is about - lakes, canals & - did I mention the islands !    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    Roof top flowers - including beehivesThe Solar Egg. We preferred to call it the Golden Goose Egg3D sketchesCreating silkFerry arriving at Artipelag . The usual wooden fenders.

    Artipelag

    15 juli, Sverige ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After the buzz of Stockholm, we retreated back to the calmer waters along the southern end of Boo and along some of the prettiest channels through to the beautiful setting of Artipelag on the island of Värmdö
    Artipelag is an international place of art, culture, design and good food.
    Björn Jakobson, founder of the renowned company BabyBjörn, envisioned creating a beautiful venue for art and cultural experiences in the Stockholm Archipelago combined with his deep appreciation for nature with his wife Lillemor’s background in art and design after many successful years in Swedish business , Artipelag is the result of their vision.

     A beautiful mix of art, culture, architecture, and Swedish design, and it's very relaxing.
    Johan Nyrén was tasked with designing Artipelag. His fundamental idea was to include four elements: fire, earth, air and water. Well, he certainly nailed that idea.

    The long coastal boardwalk is completely in harmony with nature, with tree trunks having carefully been cut around along the way.

    On reaching the large building and stepping inside the architecture is special. Nature's influence throughout with roof top terrace and flowering beds with beehives . Fantastic views and perfectly positioned sculptures. Staircases and restaurant worked around the massive Gneiss rock face or ’båda’ in local archipelago-language that emerges out of the floor structure has been eroded to a beautiful rounded shape by the ice age .

    Open air sculptural artworks are dotted around the large area of land. Right down to the seafront.

    Solar Egg sculpture perched by the water edge at Artipelag was much larger than I thought it would be, even though it could be seen a long way off on the approach to the island. We both admired it, although both wanted it to be named the Golden Goose Egg.

    Lars Wallin exhibition
    The exhibition features over 140 unique, handmade couture dresses, bridal gowns, and stage costumes from the designer's personal archive. The story behind his pieces , how he works, and the 35 years of fashion and collaboration with his tailors making pieces for celebrities, royalty and stage.
    Whilst I got to go and immerse myself in the world of couture, Ron headed back to Whisper.
    Having lived out of a bag and a handful of clothes for about a month, it felt even more like an alien world.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    Sheep enjoying the shade.1

    Ägnö -Napoleonviken

    15–16 juli, Sverige ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We arrived here after our afternoon at Artipelag with the north wind dwindling as we entered this very sheltered inlet . By the time the anchor had been dropped and lifted a couple of times, we were both sweltering in the heat. Our attempt to tie up on the steep rock was successful, at least, and soon we were on the nets with a G&T cooling down.

    A gentle ripple of chat & laughter around the long inlet and the occasional plop from fishes could be heard in the otherwise total stillness. The local sheep popped by on their tracks around the watersedge before heading into the woods. So lovely to just sit , chat about our day & soak up the peacefulness .

    The following morning, we were up fairly early & took dinghy ashore to explore some of the large island.
    The towering rocks close by were a step too far for us to climb today, but we enjoyed following the handy sheep's trail around the woodlands. Such a beautiful anchorage just tied up to the rocks.
    The weather was improving every day, and it was showing over 26°.C . We decided it was time to move on or end up getting baked where we were, so we set off , meandering in the calm conditions.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Saltsjöbaden

    16–17 juli, Sverige ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    We arrived here with summer weather in full swing. The captain had booked a bouy ahead, and we were told to just pick up one that was free. With over 15 or more available bouys to choose from, it was nice and easy. The harbour staff reckoned it will get busy next week !!
    With this being Whisper's holiday home for a while, we checked ashore to prepare for our onward journey back home. The harbour team were very helpful, and we arranged a pick-up off the boat for early tomorrow as the dinghy would be stowed.
    The laundry room booked for later , we enjoyed a light lunch at the waters edge restaurant in the shade. The very high(15m) jumping platforms at the nearby bathing area provided entertainment with the occasional brave jumpers.

    Saltsjöbaden can accommodate much larger boats here & we admired the large German boat 'Joy' coming in, although the 8+ crew were not helping the helmsman much . I think Ronney was feeling his pain despite the smirk on his face.

    We went to check the bus times ( trains have infrastructure repairs going on , just in time for the busiest of weeks! Ha-ha, just like Bude) for tomorrow's departure, and I spied the blue Bageri van - A little something for Fika time?

    Returning to the boat with the sun blazing made the water very tempting for a swim. The temperature of the sea was reading 15.5°C so within minutes I was ready & down the ladder . Such a lovely swim and the positively warm!
    We hoped our water tank reserves would hold out until we left . We hadn't filled up the water since Karlby, Finland, ( 10th July) so we knew we were very low.

    In an effort to empty the fridge, we had a mish mash of food for our evening meal. Starters: Cheese, pate, the last of the smoked salmon from Åland , skagen toast and potato salad .
    Mains - bacon & eggy bread!
    Dessert - Strawberries and yoghurt 😋

    The water held out till the morning and the last of the washing up - perfectly planned I'd say!

    The nagging fear of Saltash seagulls came to haunt us as the neighbouring motorboats canvas cover was recoloured from navy to the undesirable whitey grey poo stained mess. Strips of Wroes plastic bags were promptly tied to the lazy Jack's in a last minute effort to spare the sail cover before the harbour guy collected us and we left Whisper swaying and waving with her new 'green flags' in the gorgeous morning sunshine.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär

    Stockholm by foot (2)

    17 juli, Sverige ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We arrived in Stockholm around midday and checked in to our hotel perfectly positioned opposite Central station. We were upgraded which gave us access to the sun deck giving us fantastic views across the city.
    We took in the action & explored the large cental park - Kungsträdgjärden which called for a fika stop on the pretty cafe lined walk .
    We enjoyed the sculpture courtyard in the national museum and took the moment to cool down. A walk around Skeppsholmen ( the island of ships) and the old boats and naval yard before taking the ferry over to Gamla Stan - with its beautiful 16th &1 7th century architecture, the quaint cobbled streets and alleyways. A drink stop for some people watching with the clever little tables attached so they don't topple on the cobbles and provide outside seats in the narrow streets.
    Despite the heat today (28°C) we managed to stay cool - the breeze off the water and shade in the trees made our city explore really pleasant, and it was a great day - our last one in Sweden.    Läs mer

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  • Andrea BallBalls go BalticResenär
    Iron maiden - the entrance to Amsterdam

    Haarlem

    18 juli, Nederländerna ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Our first flight home took us into Schipol, Amsterdam . The Stockholm airport staff had solved any faff with luggage since it was now in the hold & would go straight to Exeter ! With a 4-hour layover before our next flight, we decided we had just enough time to cram in a whistlestop visit to historic Haarlem.The views leaving Stockholm were great - but it was obviously really hard to capture the enormity of the archipelago through the plane's window.
    15 minutes into the flight, and we were still over islands and lakes .

    Haarlem, with its cobblestoned lanes, Gothic cathedrals, a bustling main Market square, canals and bridges bring the quintessential Dutch experience. For centuries Haarlem has been a Market town. The Grote Markt (Market Square), where 10 streets converge, is the town's centrepiece with its very obvious sloping cobbles .
    The impressive Grote Kerk (Great Church), one of the most famous landmarks in the Netherlands, rises high from the square. Around the church various low buildings have been built up against it, formerly the fish market called De Vishal, which today is used for exhibiting modern art. Also, a number of low buildings used as shops are built up against various church buildings.

    Such a historic city and lots more to see but given just over an hour and a half of exploring it was definitely worth the effort with a few fast train connections, but we made it there and back in good time. And so here we end this chapter , but no doubt we'll be back for more adventures. Till then, Hej så länge!    Läs mer

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    Resans slut
    19 juli 2025
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