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Cruising Donkeys to Greece
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huhtik. 2017 – toukok. 2018

Cruising Donkeys to Greece

401-päiväinen seikkaillu — Cruising donkeys Lue lisää
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    El Raton
    LekietioEa

    On route to Elanchove/Elantxobe

    16. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Beautiful cruise along the coast today (Wednesday) , we left Getaria and Island San Anton better known as El Raton. The day started off a bit overcast but cleared nicely. Yet more stunning geological scenery, the photographs dont do it justice. On our way we passed Zumaia very built up, Mutriku which look nice but was too close, Ondarroa an active fishing Port, Lekeitio again nice with lovely lighthouse, tiny harbour of Ea and arrived at our chosen overnight stop of Elanchove. Stunning location but more about that in next post as you need to see photos to appreciate it.Lue lisää

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    Elanchove port
    Port from Elanchove village

    Elanchove 2

    16. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    The harbour is small but beautiful and reminded us of the inner harbour at Sark, families come down during day set up cars rugs blankets etc and kids and adults jump in and swim around. Next to the harbour is one road that comes in from the side the other goes up and I mean up and should only be used by new vehicles with great brakes and traction. Think the hill from Dinan Port up to the town but much longer and winding. There are no visitors pontoons or anything so we are along side. The roads even at the top of town are narrow so they installed a turntable for the buses, last photo. I have included a photo of brochure picture as was too hot to walk over there as well as up to top of town!Lue lisää

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    Urdaibai bird resort
    BermeoSan Juan de GaztelugatxeIslote BillaoPlentzia

    Getxo marina (coastal Bilbao)

    18. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We traveled on along the coast passing Urdaibai bird reserve, then Bermeo fishing port, also San Juan de Gaztelugatxe a church on the top of the hill out to sea where historically people left offerings in return for a sailors safe return, Armintza a gorgeous little harbour the inner bit much too small for us to even go in but so very pretty, Islote Billao where we stopped for a dip and a smack, before Plentzia (beach and resort) where there was a beautiful big old building and a monster island (inflatable in the sea). Then Bilbao harbour which is actually 20km from Bilbao city. There is a 2mile submerged breakwater with a restricted area around it to the East that we went around only to see the locals going over!
    We stopped in Getxo Marina but after finding out the price we wished we had tried the Las Arenas yacht club, which the pilot book said was basic as Getxo is Euro83 per night. We are hoping to stay just 2 nights as have some sightseeing lined up in the morning in Bilbao city or 1 night would be enough at that price. Another hot day but as we were on the water it didn't feel as bad.    Lue lisää

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    Guggenheim spider
    Guggenheim

    Bilbao sightseeing

    18. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So up early for us and on the road by 9.00, walk to Metro and travel to 'old town' of Bilbao, full of narrow cobbled streets, old and new buildings, looking at the Teatro and visited what is claimed to be one of largest covered markets in Europe 3stories fruit veg meat and fish. Then towards the Guggenheim museum, we didnt go inside as raining and ticket queue long but walked around and took photos of exterior which is impressive including spider and dogs, also walk though city seeing churches and other old city buildings we have delicious menu del dia for Eur10. 50 each including 3 course and a drink and bread, with choice of food, while we were eating it hammered down but only drizzle after. On next post I have attached photos of Bizkaia Bridge,the hanging bridge, the oldest shuttle suspension Bridge in the world there is a gondola that hangs from the Bridge that moves people and cars from side to side.Lue lisää

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    Bizkaia Bridge

    18. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Suspension Bridge and gondola. We took lift up and walked across river on walkway at about 50m above sea level then took giant gondola back only about 5m up. Gondola can carry 6cars and numerous people. Last photo shows some of the Villas (I think we would call them palaces) that line the Estuary on the East side the west is all industrial. John tells me Guernsey ships some of its scrap to Bilbao.Lue lisää

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    Santona and Santander

    22. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Hello sorry its been a few days, connectivity issues, our orange data card from France doesn't connect well over here in Spain. If you are using the AIS app you will know that we have been moving steadily west. After Bilbao we sailed to Santona and anchored in the Estuary. The original plan was to take a yacht club mooring but when we got there there werent any moorings, not that there were no free ones but that all the moorings were gone! It was choppy and we were quite a distance from shore so stayed on board. While there the French boat we were along side in Getaria came past and gave us a wave. Wind dropped at night but there was a concert from a male tenor that went on till about 1:30am. In the morning we headed to Santander we motor sailed in the morning but wind died in afternoon. Photos1-4 of Santona promontory on 3 if you look carefully there is a lighthouse. Photos 4 + 5 are the view coming into the Santander river mouth we anchored off Magdalena beach. We read our Spain guide book and the city had very little to offer except the beach so we kept costs down and didn't use marina.Lue lisää

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    Saint Vincent de la Barqueria

    22. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Well leaving Santander wasn't as smooth as it could have been we snagged some old moorings with the anchor and then while getting rid of those the wind pushed us on to the moorings of 2 little boats that we then had to slide off the keel and rudder without snagging the propeller. 45mins later we are on our way and fortunately no one is chasing us. Result. Windy at first and sea has lots of swell we motor sail west to St Vincent we nearly change our minds as pilot book said OK to anchor Almanac said no anchorages but could moor on quay but we arrived just after low tide and not sure enough water in entrance channel. We risk it as its likely to take 5 hours to reach next option. I try calling on the radio but nothing we head in slowly and dont ground! Then look for moorings on quay as per Almanac but dingy comes out and wants us to secure to row of bouys so we do. Looks OK and town lovely only drawback is rowing ashore but thats OK except when tide falling as lots of current. Bouys are just in front of arched bridge and large Estuary behind but John is OK, fortunately he's still good at rowing. Here are pictures of the towns old buildings and Estuary. Also a photo of the milk dispenser cabin!Lue lisää

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    11

    Proper Tourists in Picos d'Europa

    26. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    OK so today is Saturday and we have hired a car to go to the Picos, after a couple of navigational errors we visit Cangas De Onis and did tourist stuff then on to Covadonga where we had to leave the car and take a bus up to the Lakes for a short walk. On our way to Covadonga we visited an old monastery, now a hotel. The Bridge in Cangas is medieval but known as the Roman Bridge. The views up the mountain were stunning the drive up and down to the Lakes was a bit scary as road not wide in places and as 12km long we were passing other buses up and down. Our short walk took 95mins thankfully we werent on our own for very long around the back of the peak as we had no map and no real idea of where we were going. But lots of photos that I will post separately. The drive back was uneventful and as I managed to program the satnav in Spanish we did well not to get lost! Today John did an oil change and I cleaned the carpets before a lovely Menu del dia and a walk along bay, there are a lot of random sculptures in Gijon, it is now raining heavily with lightening, tomorrow we headed to Cordillero.Lue lisää

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    Ribadesella and then Gijon

    26. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    From St Vincent we kept moving west, we passed Llanes with its painted blocks on the breakwater and headed to what was a very pretty village in Rio Sella estuary, not a lot of history but nice. Saw our first elevated wooden house 'Horreo' and tried to see the Tito Bustillo Caves and paintings. Hadn't realised they had Unesco status and that you had to book at least a month on advance, we visited the museum instead which was surprisingly good and probably more informative than just looking at marks on walls. On Thursday we spent 3hours kayaking back along coast to visit natural caves for edge by the sea they were stunning but experience wasn't as good as could have been as was raining all day. John took photos on waterproof camera and I will try to put some on blog soon. Then on to Gijon a big industrial Port on west of the estuary but touristy on east passed a small Port call Tazones on the way very picturesque . Last 2photos are in Gijon.Lue lisää

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    Ribadeo

    29. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    And we keep on heading west, after leaving Gijon we moored in Cudillero a lovely little town and harbour. There is no marina but fore and aft bouys in theory, we arrived just after lunch and inched in initially it looked like a wall of rock but then opened up. We could see the 'Transito' bouys yellow not red as per pilot book, but the lines were all tangled so being John he decided to untangle at least one by cutting and re threading it from the other and retying. We had a nice quiet night and were safe on our untangled mooring. After sorting mooring John rowed us to town for coffee, so much nicer and cheaper in Spain than France, and we walked through the little lanes to the top of town. Sadly when it came to rowing back we realised the dingy was a bit flat, when we got on board the boat we found out someone had dropped a fag butt in the dingy and it had burnt tiny holes in the floor and side before going out. Some people are so nice. Any way it was fairly easy to repair just a nuisance, next day we motored to here, Ribadeo on the Asturias Galicia border, passing Tapia on the headland, very built up. The coast line is a bit more like we are used to now with rocks to avoid. Tomorrow we are busing to Lugo with its 2.5km Roman wall around it another Unesco site its all about culture!Lue lisää

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    Lugo

    30. elokuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    First things to note is that Ady has completed Tsuguru swim, in Japan, congratulations to him and suppose crew on job well done.

    So this is Lugo 78km from Ribadeo per guidebook book but for some reason it took the bus 2.5hours to get here, the Roman wall, Unesco listed, around the old town is complete and measures 2. 5km. Inside the walls are both old and new buildings one of the old is the Church of St Maria photo 1+2 also Unesco mentioned and seems to consist of lots of little chapels/shrines on edge photo3 and shiney main section Photo4. Walls photo5 and roof top with very dodgy looking slates photo. None of it looks great as it has been raining all day. We are now a bit damp, well my feet are soaked the rest of me is damp so a nice hot chocolate to kill some time till bus back. You can almost make out John in photo 2as he heads into Church as he is wearing sailing Jacket with luminous yellow hood.Lue lisää

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    Ribadeo
    Galician style houses in Viviero1Outside Church in VivieroCathedral in Santiago de Compostella

    Coruna to Santiago de Compostela

    3. syyskuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Its been a few days, we went from Ribadeo to Viveiro where the marina staff were very helpful. We then anchored at Cediera before arriving in A Coruna. From Ribadeo to Viveiro was pleasant we saw a small pod of dolphins that played on the bow for a few minutes. The journey to Cediera was very lumpy and apparently I am still not a good sailor, never mind. Then on to Coruna on the way we were hailed by Talisman a cruiser we first saw in Gijon, nice to speak to someone other than each other. Sea was busier than normal, we had forgotten it was the weekend and the Spaniards were also out and about. Again lots of history in Coruna. We decided to train to Santiago de Compostela, the end of the pilgrim route, as guidebook book said we should. Well there were so many old buildings that we got a bit jaded. We’re still not sure about the Klu Klux Klan but think they are part of an annual religious festival. I also took some photos in Santiago but none are great.Lue lisää

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    Punta Ortegul
    Cidero bay and lighthouseCorunaHercules Tower roman lighthouseMenhirs at Coruna

    Coruna

    3. syyskuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Some photos of scenery on way to Coruna and the city itself. Photo 1is Punta Ortugel the Northern mostly point of Spain, photo 2 nights is a little lighthouse in Cideiro estuary, 3 is a very odd lighthouse it is square but with gaps . Photo 4 is in Coruna, 5 is of Hercules Tower oldest working Roman lighthouse in the world! 6 is of random sculptures menhirs cut is can see through then put back together.Lue lisää

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    Corme
    Abandoned vivierosMuxia churchDry walled enclosures on headland for growingLunch tortilla octopus and saladGiant bug i found on shower head

    Coruna to Muxia

    6. syyskuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    West west west but now with a little bit of south as we come along the Costa del Morte. Still great scenery but this coast is long sandy beaches broken by craggy rocky cliffs and big estuaries, there are now offshore rocks and reefs to think about but maximum rise and fall of tide is 4m. That said the Atlantic swell can definitely add to that. There are fewer marinas now with greater distance between them. Not very many Spanish on this part of the coast seem to have boats. There are your old guys in the traditional small wooden whalers out in all weathers fishing, or at least not being at home, not seen them catch anything! But very few pleasure boats. We travelled from Coruna to Corme a little fishing Port with abandoned viveiros, which we think are mussel beds, where we anchored for the night and then on to Muxia a big empty marina but staff lovely and managed to do some badly needed washing. Corner was interesting, after we had anchored up a guy in a little boat came out and laid his prawn pots all around us, luckily he lifted them early or we might have been trapped. Been here Musial 2nights as wind picked up just after we arrived and hasnt eased much but off tomorrow regardless so tablets at the ready and once we are under way I will curl up and 'sleep'.Lue lisää

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    Portosin to Ria Aruso

    11. syyskuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The second morning in Muxia I went for a run, first out to headland then around back of isthmus thinking just keep turning left.... it didn't really work found my self on tiny little lanes with large unfriendly dogs which after they randomly ran at me and came up short I was pleased to see they were chained. Then just when ive decided to turn around a large road not quiet a motorway appeared, so now I am running on edge of road still no idea where I am after another 15mins so that's 55 so far, I am running down and then there it is Muxia. I was very releaved and decided I should carry money or a phone and tell John the plan from now on. After leaving Muxia we had expected a fairly horrible trip south so only planned on covering 17miles but it was gorgeous almost flat with on and off sunshine. So we decided to miss out a stop, there were no must see sights, and heading straight for the Ria Muros and as higher winds were forecast we went to Marina Portosin about half way up the Ria. On first morning I went for a run having forgotten all my lessons from 2mornings ago except that I did tell John where I was going, which would have been good except I changed my mind I went out and back and when I saw a turning off I took it well, 20mins of lone trail later I met someone and was about to try out my best Spanish when there was a sign I was on the outskirts of town amazing and only 5mins over my goal time. The marina was lovely and from there we cycled first North to Noia again old buildings, one Church now a museum showing burial stones and explaining the carvings. They said there was a carpenter one but I couldn't find it. We also went south to Castros de Barona, a semi restored late bronze age settlement on a small Peninsula jutting out into the ocean. Then further south to Ria Aruso where we anchored up, see photo 4 its tough but someone has to do it. Photo 6 is of the little lighthouse we passed to reached the anchorage. While there we gathered some mussels and have just eaten home cooked moule mariniere. Delicious.Lue lisää

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    CombarroCombarroCombarroPontevedro churchIsla Tambo lighthouse

    Ria Arusa to Ria Vigo

    14. syyskuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    So we are continuing, still a bit foggy as we left the marina but thats what radar is for photo 1 so all well, we decided coz of the good weather to continue down to coast passing close to Isla Ons and into next Ria where we headed North about 12miles to top of Ria and small island called Tambo where we anchored up. We saw lots of dolphins this trip a couple played in the now wave for a while, so beautiful . We are here to visit Combarra which has a restored old town/port so lovely . The next day we took the dingy 2.5miles up river to Pontevedra for a mooch round old town and to look for post office, found old town, again pretty, there was a lovely Church we walked up to to see medieval ceiling in this one, but no post office so Nans present will definitely be late. We anchored near the lighthouse on Isla Tambo. We are now in Cangas Marina in Ria Vigo but waiting for office to open to see if we can stay! Our proposed overnight anchorage in Ria Aldan, at south of Pontevedra Ria was too bumpy and as wind picking up and a bit chilly even though sun out no swimming likely, so we voted to move on. John has also apparently run out of clean pants so we best do some washing.Lue lisää

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    Ria Vigo to Baiona (bayona)

    17. syyskuuta 2017, Espanja ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    They did let us stay at Cangas, the office didn't open till Saturday morning but the Marinero (Port watchman) came back after Lunch and after some pointing and pigeon Spanish we could stay and even do washing. Washing wasn't such a bonus it turned out as it took the domestic machines 3hours to do the load. Fortunately Jonty a fellow cruiser pointed us in the direction of the town laundromat and the industrial 18kg washer and dryer which took 1hour 5mins to do bedding including duvet. We did some shopping and thought about sightseeing but I had seen enough churches and chapels so we didn’t as google said that those were the local sights. Saturday after an uneventful run, thank goodness, we headed up the Ria, John got excited as we passed 2-3 boatyards and other large marina stuff 😉 we anchored up off Isla San Simon at top of Ria and I baked cakes ready for the long (for us) runs down the Portuguese coast and John replaced some plugs on the deck. Sunday we headed back past the exciting boat yards, John took lots of pictures, and to Baiona, apparently that is the Galician way of spelling it and as we are in Galicia. After a walk around the Baiona Fort on the headland, both on ramparts and outside, fort is now a hotel parador, and then to Virgen de la Roca a 15m Mary carved from rock on the next headland we did the Spanish thing and walked along the promenade then had tapas, we ate Meijones, (mussels), calamares and patatas fritas (chips) for our tea. Tomorrow we are going to Portugal!Lue lisää

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    Spain to Portugal

    18. syyskuuta 2017, Portugali ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    OK so journey was horrible lots of swell and wind on the nose 10-15mph despite forecast of North veering North west less than 10mph until around 5pm, also drizzling on and off. So my first impressions of Portugal as we arrived were not great we had to start slaloming to avoid pots as well. But we reached dry land and the marina guy was great helping us to moor showing us where to go in town and the town Viana do Castelo is pretty. We took a funicular (probably spelt wrong) up to the Basilica at Monte de Santa Luzia with stunning views. If you look really carefully Take Five's masts are just to starboard of the Tower block. We also wandered aimlessly in town so some random photos as well.Lue lisää

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    Porto Town Hall
    Porto train stationCathedral SeLooking across river to Gaia and portPort boats now used for racingLooking North to Porto

    Porto

    20. syyskuuta 2017, Portugali ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    OK so after our first day in Portuguese waters being rough the second was calm but it was also foggy from when we got up until we entered the River Douro estuary nesr Porto , we could see no more than 100m max in any direction, añd it was often less than this. But after 5.5hours of nothing except the occasional lobster pot marker we arrived at Marina Douro on the south bank of the river with Porto on the north. Staff were great very helpful as has been everyone we have met so far and their English is excellent, the fog lifted as we arrived so by the time we were moored we could see the city which is a little tired but there is a lot of renovation work being done. Today we have been doing the sights and took a Port tour, as you should in Porto. We have also been trying to pay lighthouse tax, but marinas appear to know nothing about it, we did manage to find a 'harbour office/tax office' in Porto but as we didnt have all the documents we couldnt pay the 2euros!Lue lisää

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    Fish drying in St Nazaire

    Making Progress

    23. syyskuuta 2017, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We are now in Nazare in Portugal, site of a very famous surfing photo, i have been told, of someone Macnamara? Today was our nicest cruise since arriving in the country, the light fog cleared, the sun came out and we could see the coast, not that there was much to see except sand dunes. At one stage on the plotter set to 8nautical miles there was only blue, sea and yellow, land, no towns, headlands or other features.
    From Porto we headed to Aviero and the Bay Sao Jacinto foggy trip but we arrived just before hightide so entering the harbour was OK except for all the locals in their little speed boats fishing making it a slalom course. Anchored up fine and had a quiet night. Leaving however, now that was more interesting, the book suggested that just before high tide was best time to enter and leave as that was slack water but high tide was at 04:25 and in the dark was also not recommended so we left about 9:00. Well some of you know that the boats top speed is about 7knots but we were making 11! Then harbour control advise us to wait as a cargo boat and large fishing vessel are coming in Great, we did manage to tuck in out of their way then we ploughed into the overfalls , JVK says like at Roustel, the sea was still a mess 2 miles out. Things stayed unpleasant all day so it was a relief to arrive at Figuera de Foz and tie up for the night. This afternoon we walked into town and as its saturday John had a G&T we saw the fish out to dry and headed back.    Lue lisää

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    Peniche breakwater

    Peniche

    24. syyskuuta 2017, Portugali ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Short trip today ready for long haul to Lisbon tomorrow can't wait😉. Not a bad trip today the fog stayed in the distance and we could see the coast for the entire trip, well the cliff tops if not the actual beach. Today we saw dolphins again, trying not to get blasé about it, no it's always exciting. Also saw a Sun fish only a small one but only a couple of metres from the boat amazing looking things. Peniche isn't beautiful but the town is on a peninsula and has 16th century walls and a moat separating it from mainland and an old citadel style fort as well as impressive swells breaking over the breakwater.Lue lisää

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    Fog fog fog

    24. syyskuuta 2017, Portugali ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    These photos show the view leaving Viana do Castelo arriving in Porto and the fog clearing, we were out for 5.5hours and had to steer by compass the entire time, it is really eery especially as we were approaching Porto because we now know there is an airport but we could just hear disembodied noise as we got nearer.Lue lisää

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    Padrao dos Descubrimentos, monument to the discoverers
    Belem Tower was in river but now its on the landMonastery of JeronimosView west from Sao Jorge CastleSanta Justa elevatorLooking north east as going up river

    Lisbon

    26. syyskuuta 2017, Portugali ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    So after another foggy trip yesterday we eventually made it into the marina 9hours after leaving. The first 6.5hours were foggy, the next 1hour windy, the remaining 1.5 OK. The fog cleared just after we turned east having cleared the western most point of Europe in thick fog, and we could see the north bank of the Tagus estuary. We were then able to turn off the radar and cruise our way up the river, with tidal assistance. The port is very commercial and Lisbon is huge. Today we have been tourists wandering around seeing as much as we can.
    In the final photo taken from the boat looking north east as we came up river including the dome of the church of Sao Vincent de Fora    Lue lisää

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