Colombia

July - August 2018
A 30-day adventure by Elaine Read more
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  • Cali

    July 25, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Colombia was not on our itinerary when we left home however because we met so many travellers that advised us to visit we decided that we had to explore the country. Our first Colombian city was Cali which is famous for Salsa dancing. Unfortunately I was not able to persaude Rob to take lessons with me but we did end up in a cafe listening to Salsa music for a while which was a nice alternative.

    We walked around the city and found a park that has statues of cats before walking uphill to San Antonio church to get a beautiful view over the city. Unfortunately the rain came soon after we arrived so we didn't get to spend long admiring the view. We ran for shelter in a shop and ended up talking to a local man about music. I say talking but as our Spanish is only very basic and his Colombian accent was very strong and difficult to understand we ended up just saying famous bands and singers from the 80s/90s to each other. Once we couldn't think of any more famous musicians we said our goodbyes and wandered onto the main plaza called Cayzedo plaza that is full of Palm trees. We couldn't figure out way the square looked so familiar until we returned back to our hostel and Google said that the plaza is used alot in the TV show Narcos.

    There wasn't a huge amount to do in Cali but that gave us time to explore the city at our own pace over two days and talk to locals. Visiting Colombia already seems like a good decision.
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  • Salento

    July 28, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Salento is located three hours north of Cali and there is a huge difference in the scenery between Cali city life and Salento. Salento is a small town surrounded by rippling hills and mountains which are covered in Palm trees. From the town you can get a Jeep called 'Willys' to the small national park called Valley de Cocora. Here we walked up part of one of the steep hills to get a better view of the palm trees. It was very beautiful and quite different to other areas that we have visited. We watched as the clouds above us moved down through the valley. It was a lovely area to chill and relax watching the natural world do it's thing.

    The other thing that Salento is famous for is growing coffee. Salento is located within Colombia's coffee triangle. This is the area within Colombia that has the highest production of coffee. We did a tour of the coffee plantation called Finca del Ocaso outside of Salento. We learned about how coffee is one of the most important industries for Colombia's economy. We learned about how coffee grows and then we hand-picked coffee fruit from the coffee plant. We saw how the coffee beans are separated from the fruit and then roasted and air-dried. It was interesting to learn that modern machinery has not aided this process much because modern technology declines the quality of the coffee. The most exciting part of the tour was the tasting part. Firstly we did a smelling test to help us figure out different smells from honey, straw, smoke, potato among other smells. Next we compared the difference in taste between over-roasted beans (grounded coffee) to normal - roasted beans. Finally we saw the different methods used to brew coffee. My favourite method was the Japanese version which uses a process similar to a Bunsen burner to make coffee, it looked very funny. I really enjoyed this tour as it is something I have never done before. I never realised the complexity involved to make a good coffee.

    The following day we booked a mountain bike tour with Salento biking. We got dropped off at the top of the Valley de Cocora and cycled downhill to a different part of the valley. The field had thousands of palm trees. Our guide told us that the owner of this land was 84 years old who didn't have any children so she is selling the land for three million US dollars. Afterwards we got back onto the truck and drove up to the cloud forest where it got pretty cold in the clouds but we hopped back onto the bikes and cycled downhill again towards Salento 40km away. The road was very similar to Death Road without a cliff edge to the side of the road so it was fun being able to freewheel downhill avoiding rocks and potholes. The scenery was also very pretty so when we stopped for a break it was nice to look around at the beautiful green hills.

    That evening we met up with a Canadian couple who were on our mountain bike tour. We went to the local bar to try the traditional game Tejo. The game involves throwing a metal disc at a board covered in clay. There is a metal ring at the centre of the board which is covered in targets. The aim of the game is to be as close to the metal disc as possible and there is extra points for causing the targets on the metal ring to explode. The winner is the first person to 21 points. It took time for us to get used to the game but when the first explosion went off then everyone got competitive and wanted more explosions. It was very fun. Salento was a nice little town with beautiful surroundings, we were glad that we had decided to come and visit it.
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  • Medellin

    July 31, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We got the bus from Salento to Medellin and when we arrived into the bus station there was a party happening in the station. The place was packed and everyone was salsa dancing to music. We didn't know what was happening. It took us quite a while to find and reach the exit before going to the Metro to our hostel. We found out afterwards that parties like these happen regularly in random places like the bus station because it's such an easy accessible location for most people.

    We were recommended to do two different walking tours while in Medellin. The first was Communal 13's graffiti tour. Communal 13 is a poor district in the hills surrounding Medellin with a lot of poverty and crime. In the last couple of years things are starting to improve in the district. There is now a cable car and escalators that connect the district to the metro line allowing locals to travel more freely into the city for work. However the district is now famous as a result of the graffiti that is painted on the walls of the streets. They are not very political but they aim to show the difference between the darker times of the district and the brighter times. Our guide brought us around to different pieces of art and discribed what the art symbolised. It was interesting seeing the graffiti however the tour lasted five hours so we were quite tired afterwards.

    The following day we went on a day trip to Guatape which is a town located beside a man-made lake two hours from Medellin. We climbed the rock 'El Penol de Guatape' for a beautiful view over the islands in the lake. There was 725 steps to the top of the rock but the view was well worth the effort. Afterwards we went into the town of Guatape. The town was very colourful as all of the shop-fronts were painted in bright colours and some of the had pictures painted on them. Even though it was raining we enjoyed walking through the streets looking at the shops.

    On our final day in Medellin we walked through the small Botanical Gardens before heading to the Memory House Museum. This museum is dedicated to remember all of the victims of the civil war in the last fifty years. Most of the information was in Spanish but we heard some stories about innocent children who were killed and about people who stood up to object to the civil war. Some of the stories were very sad but it was interesting to see how many people were affected. I also thought that it was nice to have a place to remember the people who the city lost during those rough times.

    The second tour that we did was with Real Walking Tour. This tour was excellent. Our guide Rafael told us about the dark times of the city in the last fifty years and also about the better things that are happening now. We all obviously had questions about Pablo Escobar as he is the most famous criminal in Colombia and Rafael told us about what it was like to live in the most dangerous city in the world at the time he was around. Honestly now it is hard to imagine that Colombia had such a dark recent past because from my experience I have never felt so safe and the people are extremely welcoming. Rafael said that the Colombians are so happy to have tourists visit the country now because for them it is hope that the dark history is over. Medellin is definitely one of my favourite cities that we have visited and we wished that we had a few more days here to explore it.
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  • Santa Marta

    August 3, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We flew from the cloudy cold Medellin to the roasting hot Santa Marta on the Caribbean Coast. We were finally back wearing our shorts again. We firstly headed to a fishing town called Taganga and stayed in La Provinciana hostel which to my delight had a swimming pool. I went diving the following day with Poseiden dive school. It was a while since I last dived so it took time to get used to what I was supposed to be doing. We went to a reef on the first dive where there was a lot of coral and then on the second dive we saw a load of fish. I really need to learn the different names of the fish as at the moment I just see large fish, small fish and colourful fish. That evening as we watched the sunset on the beach we watched as all of the boats returned from fishing for the day. It was quite scenic!

    The following day we headed to Costeno beach which was on the opposite side of Santa Marta. This was nearly like a private beach for the hostels situated along the beach as there was a security man at the entrance only allowing entrance to people who had a reservation. We stayed in a little lodge on the beach and it was amazing opening our lodge door and stepping right out onto the white sand. Unfortunately we were only able to stay one night in this lodge as it was booked up so we moved to a different hostel slightly inland before going to Tayrona National Park ten minutes away. This national park is one of the main places to visit around Santa Marta. After paying at the entrance of the park we walked for an hour an a half through jungle to the first beach. It was quite hot by the time we arrived so we decided to stay at this beach instead of walking further on. The water was nice and cooling and the waves were of a nice height to jump over. It was slightly annoying that there was people trying to sell things to us while we were on the beach but we were just used to Costeno's private beach. It was a nice relaxed day out at the beach though.
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  • Ciudad Perdida

    August 8, 2018 in Colombia

    When we decided to visit Colombia, the Ciudad Peridad (Lost City) was one of the main places we wanted to visit. It is located in the jungle in Sierra Nevada National Park. To reach the Lost City we had to hike for two days. The first day started in the midday sun so it was hot and humid and after five minutes of walking our clothes were already drenched in sweat. We realised quickly that the sweaty feeling would stay with us for the full trip. The climb wasn't the hardest but due to the heat it made every step feel like three steps. We stayed in a camp beside the river so it was nice to swim after our long day of walking however it also meant that the mosquitos were around too and they like my blood therefore I got bit a lot!

    The second day had the longest climb which felt like it went on for ages. There was a little bit more shade in the jungle which helped slightly with the humidity. We were rewarded with delicious fresh fruit snacks at the top of the hills as a break. The trial continued through rivers, up and down hills and through mud patches. The second camp was a little bit more basic as some of the beds were hammocks. We did the classic "name from a hat" to determine who would sleep in the hammocks and who got to sleep in a bed, luckily I wasn't one of them so I got a proper bed.

    On day three we finally reached the Lost City. The Lost City was built by natives, hundreds of years ago, but it was only discovered by the Colombian people thirty years ago. There is only 150 people allowed into the historic site everyday so after our guide gave us a tour of the place we were allowed to wander around for a while. It was nice that the place wasn't crowded so there was times that we felt as though we were alone as there was no one around us.

    When we all gathered back together we went back to the second camp for lunch before walking to the first camp for the night. The final day was a long walk back to the start but everyone made it. Our legs were very tired after the long walk and our clothes smelled so bad that Rob and I decided to throw them away instead of washing them. Overall we were glad to have done the four day hike as the Lost City was great to visit.
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  • Rosario and San Bernardo Islands

    August 16, 2018 in Colombia

    Before going home I wanted to scuba dive again. I found some islands off the coast of Cartagena that was supposed to be good for diving. I left Rob behind in Cartagena and went with Diving Planet for a two day diving trip to the Rosario Islands. Most people were just doing a one day trip but there was one other guy from Belgium who was also doing a two day trip. We dived two day-dives followed by a night dive on day one and then two more day-dives on day two. The water was a lot warmer than in Taganga and New Zealand so it was a lot more comfortable diving. I actually really liked diving in this region as the reef was very colourful with coral and the fish were also colourful. We saw cerebral coral, elephant sponges, triggerfiah, lobsters and crab. On the night dive I apparently spotted an octopus and showed it to our guide however I don’t remember seeing an octopus as I always thought that I was looking at crabs and lobsters. I will have to dive again somewhere to see an octopus. The best part of the dive trip was on the night dive when we turned off our lights and saw the illuminative plankton moving in the sea, it sparkled like the stars. It was definitely a nice place to finish my diving for the trip.

    After returning back to Cartagena for one night Rob and myself headed to another set of islands off the coast of Cartagena called San Bernardo islands for a few nights of paradise. It took two hours to reach the islands from Cartagena by boat. Unfortunately when we arrived the weather was cloudy and grey so the island didn't feel like paradise. However the next morning the sun was splitting the stones. We stayed in a little hut beside the sea and it was very relaxing falling asleep to the sound of the waves. We watched the beautiful sunset every evening while sipping on fruity cocktails. This was not a trip that we would normally enjoyed because there wasnt a lot of action or activities to do but it was perfect for us now at the end of the trip to relax before heading back to reality.
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  • Cartagena

    August 17, 2018 in Colombia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Of all of the places that we have been to in Colombia, and the rest of South America, Cartagena is the most influenced by the Spanish invasion. The old town has narrow streets with colourful balconies hanging over the streets below. As we walked through the old town we said that we could be in any town in Spain. It is felt quite strange but was nice at the same time too. We visited the castle which is on the outskirts if the old walled city. It was built by the Spanish Crown in the 18th century and overlooks the old town. There is a beautiful view over the city and it is interesting to see the difference between the low rise buildings of the old town and the high rise glass buildings of the new town. It was very hot when we visited so we enjoyed exploring the castles tunnels to get out of the midday sun.

    That evening we met up with Emily, Liam, Oscar and Franzie who was on our salt flat tour in Boliva. It was funny how we are all at the end of our trip but happened to end in Cartagena at the same time. It was lovely catching up with both couples and hearing how their trip has been since we last saw them.
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