Ireland

A 22-day adventure by Luc Read more

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Trip start
August 8, 2017
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Day 1
Tuesday, August 8, 2017 at 1:00 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Ireland Temple Bar 53.346203, -6.26383653°20’46” N 6°15’50” W
Luxembourg - Dublin
August 8, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
Departure for our big Ireland Trip. On this journey we will discover the following places:
Dublin - Kerry Way - Killarney - Dingle - Cliffs of Moher - Conemara - Wicklow Mountains and back home !!!!
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Day 1
Tuesday, August 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 30 m
Ireland St. Stephen's Green 53.341421, -6.26152753°20’29” N 6°15’41” W
Dublin overview
August 8, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
On our arrival, we made a long stroll through the city. We also used the hop on hop off bus. A perfect way to get orientated in the city. Dublin is not so huge as London or Paris. With a population of nearly the same as Luxembourg (country), over 550000 peaple, it is very easy to do it on foot.Read more
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Day 2
Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 12:00 PM
⛅ 18 °C
Altitude: 21 m
Ireland The Spire 53.349419, -6.26037653°20’58” N 6°15’37” W
GPO
August 9, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
On our second day, we were very busy visiting 3 interesting museums. The first was the GPO, General Post Office, one of the places used for mass gatherings of the populations. It was on this place where the rising of 1916 took place. This was the beginning of Irelands fight for independance from the British rule. It was ended by the British military force just a few days it started. 16 of the main caracters f the rising were executed in the week after. But it should not end here. After several years of civil war, Ireland became the Republic of Ireland in 1922.Read more
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Day 2
Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 2:30 PM
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 32 m
Ireland Kilmainham Gaol 53.341671, -6.30932753°20’30” N 6°18’34” W
Kilmainham Gaol
August 9, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
After the GPO we use our 48 hour ticket for the bus to get to the former prison Kilmainham Gaol. It was built in 1798. the intention was to put one prinsoner into one cell. This would avoid the very bad conditions by that time. But after some time, they had to fill up the cells with up to 5 prisoners, with a peak of 9000 prisoners during the famine. By that time, people were committing crimes on purpose in order to get into the prison as the conditions inside were much better than outside. During the whole period, there were lots of political prionners especially 14 of the 16 from the rising, who were also executed here. Others, until the mid 1800s were put here to wait for the ship for Australia. Nowadays, the prisons is a major tourist attraction and also used as location for movies.Read more
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Day 2
Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 4:45 PM
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 37 m
Ireland Maryland 53.341844, -6.2866453°20’31” N 6°17’12” W
Guinness Storehouse, Dublin
August 9, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Next stop is the main attraction of Dublin, Guinness. Well, not being a beer drinker at all, we still had to visit this place. And we were not disappointed at all. Even for non-alcoholic people, this is a must. They show you the process of making beer very detailed and in an easy to understand way. After the exhibition you get to the top floor, the gravity bar, built out of glass on top of the building. Here you can enjoy a fresh pint of Guinness or ....... if you don't want to a glass of soft drink. Well we tried the pint but still didn't manage to like it. I prefer cooking wth beer than to drink it. But still it was a great place to learn more about the historic drink.Read more
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Day 3
Thursday, August 10, 2017 at 10:00 AM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 17 m
Ireland Stephen's Green 53.34394, -6.25677253°20’38” N 6°15’24” W
Book of Kells, Trinity College, Dublin
August 10, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
On our last day in Dublin, we visited another top museum, the book of kells. The book is an illuminated manuscript gospel book of the New Testament. It dates back to 800 AD.

In the museum, I found a mention of the Echternach Gospels. They were written in Lindisfarne Abbey, the one that was completely destroyed by the Viking during their raids in Northern England. Willibrord brought this book with him to Echternach Abbey, in order to bring christianity to the continent. It is now in a collection in the BNF in Paris.

During our visit, we could see four pages of the book of Kells. Amazing to see a book with such detailed illustrations before you knowing it is over 1200 years old.

We then continued to the Old Library, a huge library containing over 200'000 books.Read more
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Day 3
Thursday, August 10, 2017 at 4:00 PM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Ireland River Ferta 51.962948, -10.17794551°57’47” N 10°10’41” W
Train from Dublin to Killarney
August 10, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Riding by train is a very fast and reliable way to travel in Ireland. Our train set off at 13:00 and we arrived at 16:15 in Killarney, a journey of about 240 km that would have taken the same amount of time by car. After 2/3 of the distance, we had to change trains. We just had to get to the other side of the quay to get the train, it just took us 10 sec.

We had book our seats in advance. Our names were even shown above our seats.Read more
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Day 3
Thursday, August 10, 2017 at 5:00 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 40 m
Ireland Killarney 52.062294, -9.50664152°3’44” N 9°30’24” W
Killarney
August 10, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
This is the starting point for the fist leg of the Kerry Way, starting tomorrow !
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Day 3
Thursday, August 10, 2017 at 7:00 PM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 32 m
Ireland Killarney 52.061123, -9.50801352°3’40” N 9°30’29” W
The Kerry Way
August 10, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
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Day 3
Thursday, August 10, 2017 at 9:00 PM
☀️ 17 °C
Altitude: 33 m
Ireland Killarney 52.059084, -9.50932952°3’33” N 9°30’34” W
An evening in Killarney
August 10, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Irish music in the evening in the streets of Killarney !!!
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Day 4
Friday, August 11, 2017 at 9:34 AM
☁️ 15 °C
Altitude: 92 m
Ireland Drishana 51.987541, -9.65996951°59’15” N 9°39’36” W
Killarney to Black Valley
August 11, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
This the first leg of the Kerry Way. We started from the B&B early in the morning after having a nice irish breakfast. The weather forecast was pretty bad for today, so we were prepared for the journey ahead. At least, the was no rain at the start.

The way went past the road for 3 km before it lead us to the Lough leane, the big lake close to Killarney. We came across Muckross Abbey and its Castle just until Torc Waterfall. After that we had to make a steep climb of 200 m. We ended up in a highland valley. The path continued and the weather turned out to be not as bad as the weather forecast predicted. Yes we did get some rain but as we thought there would be.

We took a Cappuccino and a cake at Lord Brandon's Cottage. from here just 8 more km to the finish in the Black Valley at Shamrock Farm House !!!

From here you can go through the Gap of Dunloe, a small passage over the mountain that leads directly back to Killarney. You can make this tour in one day by starting at Killarney by boat, which takes you to Lord Brandon's Cottage an from here you can bike over the Gap back to Killarney. Nice tour.

The Black Valley is one of the most remote places in Ireland. The Valley got electricity only in the 1970s. It's also home of Ireland's highest peak, the Carrauntoohil with 1040 m above sea level.Read more
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Day 5
Saturday, August 12, 2017 at 5:00 PM
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 33 m
Ireland Glenbeigh 52.058823, -9.92894452°3’32” N 9°55’44” W
Black Valley to Glenbeigh
August 12, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
On this morning we left the Farm at 8:40. We wanted to leave early as we had to walk 30 km. The start was dry but as we got closer to the end of the valley, the rain started pouring down on us. We had to use all of our rain gear. After we made the ascent out of the valley over the shoulder of a pass the weather started to improve but still ! The descent was pretty dangerous as the stone were very slippery.

The main part of the walk was on the road, so we could get some speed in order to arrive in time at the destination, Glenbeigh.

The walk went through a huge valley were at the end we had to get up to Windy Gap, a mountain pass that led us straight down to Glenbeigh. From here we could see all the mountains including the Reek Range, the highest in Ireland. Reching the top of Windy Gap we saw to the other side of the mountain, the ocean including the Dingle Peninsula on the other side. We will stay there for 2 more nights later on our trip.

On our way through Glenbeigh, we passed an ad for the Glenbeigh Festival. This is a horse race located right on the beach by end of august.

We stayed in Kerry Ocean Lodge for the night.Read more
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Day 6
Sunday, August 13, 2017 at 9:26 AM
⛅ 14 °C
Altitude: 11 m
Ireland Glenbeigh 52.055553, -9.95159352°3’20” N 9°57’6” W
Fairy Forest
August 13, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
Right at the start of our hike, we bumped in to this fairy forest full of fairies to leave all our wishes. Now we knew that we had a save journey ahead !!!
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Day 6
Sunday, August 13, 2017 at 5:00 PM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Ireland River Ferta 51.96295, -10.17800251°57’47” N 10°10’41” W
Glenbeigh to Cahersiveen
August 13, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Only 24 km to cover today. I think it should take us about 5 hours to get to the destination at Cahersiveen. The route isn't especially difficult as we only have to ascent one mountain. Weatherwise, we had a dry start. Just after the first half, we were running in some rain, which became heavy rain for the last 10 km. In between, we met some people, icluding a group of scouts, presumably from the Netherlands. I have to admit that you can't do a forecast of the weather in Ireland as it is so unpredictable. All the weather apps I had on my iphone didn't match the real conditions.

At the end, we arrived at the wonderful Strand's End B&B where we were welcomed very friendly.Read more
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Day 7
Monday, August 14, 2017 at 6:03 PM
☀️ 15 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Ireland Waterville 51.840149, -10.17860951°50’25” N 10°10’43” W
Wildlife on the Kerry Way
August 14, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
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Day 7
Monday, August 14, 2017 at 10:56 PM
🌙 13 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Ireland Waterville 51.840149, -10.17860551°50’25” N 10°10’43” W
Cahersiveen to Waterville
August 14, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
When leaving, we were brought to the starting point of the next leg of the Kerry Point by car as the B&B is 6 km away from the Way itself. The day started rather pleasent, cludy with some sunshine.

We had to cross severel hilltops, there was a lot of up and down. The track was very boggy and wet. We had to put on our rain trousers.

After 4 strenous hours of hiking (our average walking speed dropped down to 3 km/h, normally it should be 4,5 km/h), we reached a road, which we didn't want to leave anymore today. The actual Kerry Way went uphill again, but we weren't sure about its condition. Luckily, we found very small road which we followed for 10 km.

During our walk, we found many unoccupied very old buildings or nearly ruins. Many of them may have been left during the great famine, which started in september 1845. During this period, which lasted until 1849, the country lost 2 millions of its population, one million starved to death the other million emmigrated the country mainly to the United States. Ireland's population dropped from during that period from 8 to 6 million. The country never again recovered as it now still has around 6 million inhabitants.Read more
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Day 8
Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 9:31 PM
🌙 14 °C
Altitude: 21 m
Ireland Illaunnaweelaun 51.759895, -10.09608551°45’36” N 10°5’46” W
Waterville to Caherdaniel
August 15, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
The weather condtions for today are the best to date on this trip. Sunshine and warm. This is THE real Irish summer. First, we visited Waterville, a nice small waterfront resort, which was already visited by such famous people as Charlie Chaplin. He came here every summer with his family.

Waterville is also famous for the first Transatlantic Cable, which was laid from here to Canada. On this part of the coast of Kerry, there were several cable stations.

We followed the path out of town and after some km, finally, we could see both, Skellig Michael and the smaller Skellig island. The islands are famous for several reasons. On the smaller island, there are about 50'000 gannets breeding there. You can also find the famous puffins and a lot of other birds. Skellig Michael was once inhabited by monks, who built an abbey on top of it. It is now a World Heritage Site. But is another more recent reason, why Skellig Michael is famous for: it was used several times as location for the Star Wars movies. This may also be the reason why it is such a popular destination right now.

We had to get over a mountain pass in order to get to the other side of the valley. From here, we could see the Brea Peninsula, the third peninsula after Dingle and Kerry. We decided to leave the Kerry Way and followed a path that led us directly to the beach. From here the path became a wonderful and beautiful costal path. There were many people on the beaches. No wonder as the temperature went up to 24C.

At the end of the path, we came through the home of Daniel O'Connell, who became the first liberator of the Irish people in the beginning of the 19th century.

From here we only had to cover some 3 more km to get to the destination of today, the olde Forge.Read more
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Day 8
Tuesday, August 15, 2017 at 9:31 PM
🌙 14 °C
Altitude: 21 m
Ireland Illaunnaweelaun 51.759895, -10.09608551°45’36” N 10°5’46” W
Flowers
August 15, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ 🌙 14 °C
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Day 8
Tuesday, August 15, 2017
⛅ 16 °C
Altitude: 27 m
Ireland Fossa 52.066376, -9.57252552°3’59” N 9°34’21” W
Beach
August 15, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
During the Kerry Way, this was the best day we had on the whole walk, well seen weatherwise. We decided to leave the Kerry Way and follow another path down to the beach. Here we could enjoy a truly irish day on the beach !Read more
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Day 9
Wednesday, August 16, 2017 at 3:29 PM
⛅ 17 °C
Altitude: 12 m
Ireland Ardsheelhane River 51.833935, -9.89959651°50’2” N 9°53’59” W
Caherdaniel to Sneem
August 16, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
During this night the rain drops where clattering against the window with force and there was strong wind. All our fears seemed to come true. But as the morning broke in the wind was weaker and the rain nearly stopped. After the Irish breakfast, we got out, guess wha,t it was still dry. But it only took the first 2 km to began raining and didn't stop until we arrived. The path wasn't too boggy, but there was dense fog all around us. From time to time, we were greeted by a pair of lambs. The only people we met was a belgian couple we had already met several days before.

After a rather fast walk of about 4,5 hours, we arrived in Sneem, a small town. Sneem is knows for the visits of General De Gaulle, the former french President. There is a commemoration monument at one of the main places.
The meaning of Sneem is knot. In the middle of Sneem is a bridge, that ties together both halves of Sneem. This is one of the numerous origins of the name.

We then arrived at our final destination of today, which was the Sneem Hotel, a big hotel with luxury accommodation. It felt a bit unusual to arrive here after all the stays in B&B's.Read more
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Day 10
Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 6:23 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 19 m
Ireland Kenmare 51.878063, -9.58333351°52’41” N 9°34’60” W
Sneem to Kenmare
August 17, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
This was another morning on which we were prepared for rain. Lucky enough, the walk started off dry, even the sun came out. The main part of the Kerry Way followed the coast line. What we could see was actually the atlantic ocean. It looked more like a lake as the opposite side of the bay was so close.

There was a part of the walk that llooked like a walk through the jungle. Ireland must really be a wet place, probably the wetest place in Europe.

The last 7 km of the way turned out to become the toughest part of the day. We had to climb two hills, that became mountains as the soil became nearly impenetrable. A lot of bog. And last but not least we came into two heavy rain. Just before heading down to Kenmare, the sky opened up and the sun came out again.

Kenmare is a very busy small town full of pretty small shops and restaurants. It has a population of 2100 people.Read more
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Day 10
Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 7:00 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 47 m
Ireland Kenmare 51.880683, -9.57707451°52’50” N 9°34’37” W
Kenmare
August 17, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
This is a beautiful small town just at the end of the Kenmare Bay. From here, you can see both, the Kerry and the Beara Peninsula. This is also the last stop before the final hike to Killarney, where we will end the Kerry Way !!!Read more
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Day 11
Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:43 PM
⛅ 15 °C
Altitude: 27 m
Ireland Fossa 52.066437, -9.57251952°3’59” N 9°34’21” W
Kenmare to Killarney
August 18, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Well, today's hike, the last one of the Kerry Way, is not for the faint hearted. We had everything on the trail. Lots of rain, patchy at some times, sunshine (which is good, but it lasts only for a few minutes until the next shower) etc...

The trail itself was pretty eay to walk, not too boggy. Ere were just three passages through rivers, that made the walk tricky. There was even one with a rope. But at the end, we managed them all.

After a third of the trail, we joined the path that came from Killarney, the same we took a week ago when we started the Kerry Way. We made the same rest at Lord Brandon's Cottage. Just before the B&B. We had a week ago, we attacked the ascent to the Gap of Dunloe. It's a narrow montain passage to the otherside of Killarney. For us, this was a more direct route to where the hotel was located.

The Gap of Dunloe is used by many jaunting cars with tourists. These are small carts with 4 passengers. They normally ride from Lord Brandon's Cottage to the Gap of Dunloe. Nice for families.

From this point, we had only 5 km to make until our final destination and the end of The Kerry Way.Read more
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Day 12
Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 8:01 PM
☀️ 14 °C
Altitude: 27 m
Ireland Fossa 52.066471, -9.57252552°3’59” N 9°34’21” W
The Europe Resort & SPA A Liebherr Story
August 19, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
We ended our last hike just by the Killarney Lake. We stayed two nights at the wonderful Europe Resort. This brilliant hotel was built by the german Liebherr Group in the fifties and became one of the first hotels in the area. First it was used to accommodate clients, who visited the Liebherr factory (production of container cranes). Then in the eighties, the hotel opened to the public.Read more
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Day 13
Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 1:00 PM
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 7 m
Ireland Big River 52.266476, -9.70572452°15’59” N 9°42’21” W
Tralee
August 20, 2017 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
We arrived in Tralee during the one week Rose of Tralee Festival. There was quite a lot going on. We decided to visit the Kerry Museum. There was a very interesting exhibition about Roger Casement, who was one of the key figures of the Easter Rising from 1916. Another great expo was the one about Tom Crean, who travelled with Shackelton to Antarctica. We could also experience Tralee in the 13th century ! Very interesting place, worth a visit !Read more
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