Last 100

Day 19 Sarria to Portomarin
Walked 24.9km
426.94 so far
575,694 steps so far

Today was a good day, early to leave to beat the heat. Forgot to charge my watch so it turned off on the way, but we did 23km.
It was like a magic forest this morning, mystical and enchanting, birds singing, roosters crowing and cows mooing.
For such a pretty stretch of the Camino there’s lots of dairies and lots of shitty smells.
Dogs pay no attention to walkers, I’m thinking most people walking are probably missing their animals so try to engage with the Camino dogs and they are over it, over the tourists - that give nothing!
I saw what I thought was a ferret run across the road in front of me but since found out it was a Polecat.
Lots of school groups walk the last 100km so there’s high energy teenagers and lots more people about.
Language has proven a barrier. I walked with a really sweet young South Korean girl this morning. Her English was limited and my Korean non-existent. I felt bad but I told her I had to get a move on because the reality is that I need to use all of my energy to walk and it’s really taxing trying to understand each other. Luckily, in most cases a smile is a universal language!
I met two Joseph’s/Josef’s today.
German Josef recently retired and excitedly told me he had just found out he was going to be a grandfather and how, when he found out the news, he was walking with another man. The other man left him but sometime later came walking back toward him with two beers to celebrate his news. He had fast-tracked all the way to the next village and back to Josef. Very kind.
Joseph 2 was from Boston in the US and had the Camino on his mind for a very long time, like me. He talked about the merit of walking solo and how even in his time on the Camino friendships are formed fast but can also become complicated fast.
Portomarin was a beautiful place to enter, a steep descent, huge wide river and a bridge crossing. The buildings are mainly white and it all felt quite Mediterranean.
It was an easy place to explore. I had calamari and chips for lunch - the food is improving as we get closer to Santiago.
Checked into beautiful accommodation overlooking the river and I had a balcony to dry my laundry today, these things make a good day better.
I spoke to Noah and Hayley on the phone for an hour. They had been to the Geelong game so were up late for a chat. It was nice to connect with home.
I headed back out to explore and found myself in an ice cream shop. There was a lady sitting on a seat eating hers and I asked if she minded if I sat beside her. It was hot outside and I knew it would melt. I’m keen to sit after all the walking.
Carmel was an Australian woman from Sydney and we spent the next hour chatting. This was her 6th Camino I think. She’s done different parts of it over the years and this will be her last.
I would guess she would be in her late 60’s. And like me, a mum of two boys. She was kind and wise and was the perfect ice cream companion today. I walked out feeling better than when I went in.
Dinner with the girls and now I’m back in my room getting ready to take on another 25km day tomorrow in my socks and sandals in 33° heat.
Only 4 more walking days to go.
I have really mixed emotions.Read more