Helpers everywhere

Day 20 Portomarin to Palas De Rei
Walked 26.33km
6.5 hours walking
453.27km walked
614,565 steps so far

I didn’t wait for breakfast this morning because I knew I had 25km in front of me and it was going to be hot.
I walked out of the hotel and it was a foggy, misty morning, which was the last thing I expected to wake up to.
About 8km in, I stopped at a cafe. Clearly everybody had the same idea because I lined up for ages, but it was worth it, fresh orange juice and a fresh baguette with an egg and prosciutto omelette in it. It fuelled me for the day.
I walked and chatted intermittently with Eva from South Africa, who worries she is getting dementia, and Gloria a young Canadian woman taking a 12 month sabbatical, but my heart wasn’t really in it today. I wanted to be alone, so I politely headed along.
Today is 12 years since Baz died, and I felt lucky to be able to remember him this year while I was walking the Camino. For those who don’t know, my eldest brother had Young onset Denentia that took his life.
The day before I left, I met Tan, my sister-in-law and Baz’s wife, in the city and she gave me a little care package. In it was a little photo collage of Baz. I popped it in my backpack and he has been with me every step of the way.
There was a kind lady in a beautiful shady spot giving away little quotes she had made up, and she had a sign saying, “What’s your story?” So I told her about Baz. There was an Italian woman there also and I got quite emotional. They both gave me a big hug and I headed on my way a bit lighter.
There are little moments and scenes playing out all day long. It’s really heartwarming to see young and old, from all nations, walking together.
I had a stop and a cold drink, then headed off again. I had to climb down a narrow rocky road path and there was an elderly woman in front of me navigating it. I got through and said hello as I walked past, then I said hello to the woman in front of her and she started talking in a beautiful Irish accent — she had me right away.
Callid, not sure on the spelling, was walking the last hundred with her mum, who I had just walked past, and her 13-year-old son.
A nurse and mum of four, she had taken her eldest and her mum for the week to escape the dreadful Irish weather. We walked and chatted for an hour. She’s married to a dairy farmer and was just a genuinely kind person with a big smile on her face.
I said goodbye and moved on, and now as I write this I’m lying on a cold stone bench with my backpack under my head in the village of Palas De Rei.
It’s another town name that sounds pretty cool
Pah-lass-da-ray.
I’m meeting the other two girls and we are being picked up by our accommodation from the town square and heading out to Casa Roán tonight.
Part 2
The pick-up ended up being a bit of a balls up. We called, they no speak English, we no speak Spanish. We were so hot and exhausted and frustrated, but a lovely young Spanish tour guide saved the day and contacted them for us.
Casa Roán is beautiful, just off the Camino, two old stone buildings, countryside all around and a really peaceful feel. After a long, hot day of walking, it was nice to be somewhere simple, welcoming and away from the crowds for the night. I’m also excited for the 3 course dinner here, I have high hopes
I only have about 67km to go now.
My feet are weary, but the rest of my body has held up really well.
There’s thunder rumbling in the distance and I’m feeling lucky to be in the Spanish Countryside soaking it all in
Buen Camino.Read more