• A. Cook
  • Jer Mahon
marrask. 2023 – maalisk. 2024

Travels 2.0

The adventures continue Lue lisää
  • Matkan aloitus
    15. marraskuuta 2023

    Staycation: Acreage Fun

    2.–15. marrask. 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Stellar skies morning, day, evening and night! Our area of the planet never ceases to impress 🤗

    Enjoying the late-season mild weather we decided to do some garden cleanup. Weeds had impressively grown up, so we put a little heat into them 🔥😎 It was also a great time to harvest horseradish, as frost had occurred to sweeten up the root. Oh, man its aroma is powerful when grinding in the blender 🥹

    After over a year of poor water quality in our town we were able to give a satisfying clean out of our cistern. Never in the handful of years was it ever that grubby! As expected the taste was highly improved and less minerals now that the source is once again from the river 💦.

    Many months of travelling inspired A to resume roasting our own coffee at home. It doesn't take much time and you can't beat the fresh flavour ☕🤪
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  • Tootle to Terrace

    15.–27. marrask. 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Some sleuthing on Trusted House Sitters found us a dog sit in Terrace, where J's parents live. The roads were horrible from Chetwynd to PowderKing 😱. Packed snow and super ice. We even got to do a little fish tail despite going 30% below the posted speed! Weeeee! Our plan to split the long drive over two days was a good one due to our slower speed. We stayed in Smithers.

    In Hazelton we zigged over to Hagwilget for a walk across the bridge. It's an impressive feat to see how the early bridges crossed such a high space. 😲

    The week was filled with relaxing time at the hosts' Lakelse Lake property for a few nights before staying in town. We had many dinners with the parents, walks, a couple runs between the constant drizzle of rain drops, and of course caring for sweet Millie and Cinder. J ventured on plan his own to the school band performance and endured the sounds of young folks learning how to find their tune. 🙉

    On our return drive we stopped by the parents' Francois Lake property for a night. BBQ burgers and a fun night of darts around the woodstove.

    One night's rest in Prince George was an experience. The Coast Hotel used to be comfortable, but is now showing its age 😔 We enjoyed a lazy night-in with takeout pizza and wings while watching a movie 📺🍕😜 The final drive home had much better roads over the Pine Pass.
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  • Onwards to PHX

    7. joulukuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Super early departure from the house at 345am! Not our preference, but inexpensive flight costs and a short travel duration swayed us. The quick transfer at YVR also included rescreening at security/customs. Wee! Journey was smooth and some great views of the country below us, including The Grand Canyon 😊. Seeing the Phoenix area from the sky revealed how sprawling of patchwork-quilted urban reality it is. Similar to a video game building a city to include all the right aspects.

    The car rental line moved quickly. They offered an upgrade for an additional 60% of what I paid, so I declined. I misunderstood the agent's insurance question and had to get him to adjust it after the receipt was printed 🙃 To our surprise when we exited to the parking lot they didn't have our category of car and "upgraded" us anyway to anything in the Intermediate row. It will cost a bit more in fuel, but those are the breaks. The Toyota we considered could not link to our phone for navigation, so we switched to a Malibu before checking out of the parking lot. It should be enjoyable enough for the week.

    Lunch was at a nearby Mexican restaurant. Nothing fancy, but delicious for our empty stomachs. Before getting to our accommodation we did a quick grocery shop at Fry's. It reminded us of the Superstore chain back home.

    Roads are nice and easy to navigate to Goodyear where we were staying at J's Aunt's place for two nights. Dinner was a massive BBQ T-bone steak to share with salad, mushroom caps, and corn 🌽🥗🍄😜
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  • Good 'n Goodyear

    8.–10. jouluk. 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Two restful nights in Goodyear. We did a trail run each morning right outside our door on the Corgett Trail. The dirt path was in great condition and we had it all to ourselves. Mild temperatures around 20C made it very enjoyable.

    Quail and woodpeckers entertained us. The group of young adult neighbors and their immature conversations about alcohol consumption and their social lives made us laugh. 🤣 It's the authentic experience of living in a postage-stamp subdivision with neighbours just on the other side of the cinder block wall.

    The air was cool/warm, but sunbeams roasty like being under a broiler 🔥. The weather UV report it said a Low rating, which was hard to believe. We read some digital books poolside and just took it easy.

    An afternoon hike in the Estrella Mountain Regional Park was perfect. We crossed paths with a few others, but had the trails all to ourselves most of the time. Little birds fluttered amongst the desert foliage. Cactus stood vigilant. Shrubs pretended to be soft while hiding their thorns.
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  • 🌵Desert Botanical Garden 🏜️

    14. joulukuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today's adventure took us across town to our second botanical garden of the year. Atlanta's was amazing, but so is this one! Founded around 1939, it's apparent the hours, love and thought that has gone into sharing this experience with visitors. There are plants from many desert areas near and far.

    Slowly exploring more than 4.5km of paths for almost 4 hours was a great way to spend the afternoon. It was a treat to not be visiting on a busy crowded day too.

    Afterwards we even got to experience afternoon rush hour on the Interstate 10 freeway. A lot of cars all heading to their after work destinations. Thankfully the HOV lane got us there a bit quicker 🚗 💨
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  • White Tank & Petroglyphs

    15. joulukuuta 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The usual start to the day with Russell and his walk before heading off to meet with P&G for a hike in White Tank Park. We thought to take him along, but as we learned the old boy powers out after 3km.

    Decided on a loop hike starting at the Black Rock trail up to the dry waterfall, and found Petroglyphs along the way. The indigenous Hohokam people lived in the area between 500-1100 AD.
    https://www.maricopacountyparks.net/park-locato…

    Going at a leasurely pace we enjoyed the gorgeous warm afternoon. We walked all the way to where water falls during the rainy season, and enjoyed a rest in the cool shaded dry Canyon. It must be impressive to see when the water is flowing! Not getting sun exposure the rock in the Canyon was cool to the touch too 🧊

    Realising that the chosen hike wasn't as long as we originally thought, decided to detour to another trail back to the car.

    Later we drove back south to Goodyear and had a social evening with P&G at thier place in Estrella. Russell joined us for the car ride and visit 🐕. A took him for his evening walk. Never having been in the area, he impressively remembered the off trail route back to the house 🤓
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  • Return to the North

    16.–21. jouluk. 2023, Yhdysvallat ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We wrapped up our stay in Surprise, AZ. Rental car return was easy. Airport was pretty busy but we got our citrus baggage dropped off and through security without issue. The flight was enjoyable, especially with the extra room due to the empty seat between us. Lots of great views along the flight. During the layover in YVR we enjoyed another complimentary visit to a lounge thanks to our travel credit card.

    A few days later we picked up our cats from their temporary home. They were well cared for, but happy to be back home after the usual uncertainty of travel in car.

    We enjoyed relaxing at home with them and spending time with some friends.
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  • Cariboo Christmas

    22.–27. jouluk. 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Road trip to spend the holidays with family in the Miocene area of BC. Lots of visiting, games, and delicious meals. Christmas eve dinner was a ham. Christmas dinner was a 20 lbs turkey feast! Even met up with a friend that recently moved to the area.

    Like most areas of the Province it was unseasonably warm and lacking snow. We saw many a lake on our southbound drive with wet surfaces ontop of ice due to warm breezes, or even never having frozen!

    We assisted to setup and decorate the Christmas. Unfortunately it was leaning a bit forwards and tipped over! We secured it with a string to the furniture and didn't have a repeat event 🤓

    Acreage living always has a few things that need tending to, so we spend some time being handy.
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  • ❄️ Chilling in Victoria ☃️

    11.–19. tammik. 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Before heading oversees, decided to spend a week in the Victoria, BC area. Although regular winter had arrived at home, we were hoping to enjoy some mild island weather. As our luck would have it, Arctic outflows descend into Southern BC causing snow, and the usual havoc at YVR. Luckily we only suffered a couple of minor delays, and arrived at YYJ an hour later than expected.

    We were greeted with -10C in Victoria, and a few days later the region was blanketed in a heavy layer of slush-snow. We did go up island to visit friends before the snow fall. Sadly we missed seeing one friend due to after-hours repair work for failed heaters.

    All in all, a relaxing start to the trip, and many visits with friends and family. It was be to do some last-minute shopping for additional travel items for our trip to Vietnam 🇻🇳 and Thailand 🇹🇭 !
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  • Viet Nhat: Tour Day 1

    22.–23. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    An early start to the day due to jet lag; A was up around 2am,and J roused by 5am. The time was used productively to get the bags packed for the day ahead. After a quick breakfast at the hotel and final checks we were off to the motorcycle office.

    It was a wet morning with light rain as we walked a few blocks over to the tour company for 830am. They have a TINY office in a side alley 😯 After the paper worked was signed and the bikes loaded with our one duffle strapped to the rear seat, we were off. The private 16-day tour on Honda XR150L will be an adventure! Glad to have our guide navigate us out of Hanoi, a sprawling city of 10 million. We followed the Red River in a Northwest direction. We immediately learned that the concept of lanes, passing and traffic lights do not exist, only a suggestion! Eyes on a swivel, toot the horn often to let others know you are there and just go for it!

    The rain continued, so we stopped mid-morning for a coffee before continuing on. Eventually we took our route off road, and followed the dykes, and zig-zagged along narrow paths through rice fields. The most slippery sections being mushy muddy puddles recently torn up from heavy equipment construction trucks. This route didn't have many other travellers, though we crossed over main streets here and there.

    We eventually came to the mountains, and rode along a narrow (single track) concrete road through mountain villages. The vegetative landscape with the rock spires seemed magical in the low clouds. Sections of this mountain area had sugarcane fields. Friendly locals, especially the kids, had big smiles and waves.

    Before long we came upon a busy highway, and continues to climb in to the clouds, and over a pass, stopping for a hot lunch on the other side. We were completing drenched; feet hands saturated in our "waterproof" gear. A found his shirt drenched from the zipper despite the waterproof liner. 🫤

    The simple lunch spread of sauted greens, Fried salted pork belly, pork ribs, and tomato egg soup was very appreciated.
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/QDD8kpC1DrVvzdiFA

    Our route took us further west, only stopping for fuel, before arriving at the homestay (like a hostel B&B). On the way the high mountain pass was thick with cloud and very low visibility. Thank goodness for windscreen wiper 🧤😉

    Homestay No 9 Pom Coong
    https://g.co/kgs/rBtavKC

    Today's ride route
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-N0eyMgWWks

    The hot shower and change to dry clothes was very welcome. A short walk in the area before dark to stretch our legs. Though sheltered, the wind continued to blow and chill the valley.
    Our hosts provided a fabulous meal, including very strong rice wine. We all retired shortly after to huddle under double blankets in our private unheated wooden room to keep warm for a much needed sleep. The forget temperature over was 5C. Felt like camping wearing night-pants, socks, sweater and a toque in bed 🏕️🙃
    Lue lisää

  • Mộc Châu (day 2)

    23.–24. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was a chilly night, even dressed as we were with an extra blanket, and no additional heat... Sleep was fitul, and the roosters were excited to call out the new day. We stayed in bed much longer than usual to prolong the warm feeling.

    Once up, we packed and got ready for the day. Our host provided a delicious and simple European style breakfast; the bread was fresh and warm, and the fried banana pancake was heavenly!

    Our guide, S, took us on a little tour through the villages, and up though a narrow concrete road into the mountains, passing through many little villages. Eventually we came to a fork in the road, and took the dirt path. We crossed multiple RICKETY bridges, and a number of very muddy and slick sections or path. Our first time offroad riding so some minor tumbles for the bikes, but we were safe! We definitely worked up a sweat with all the hard and precarious riding. Thankfully we found a highway again that took us higher into the mountains, and cloud. A quick lunch stop for bowls of hot noodle soup, and we were on our way again.

    Not too far later we stopped for a coffee break. J noticed his motorcycle was having issues, and keep stalling. After we went off road again through some spectacular valleys lines with flowering plum trees. We came to the conclusion the clutch was finished after stalling out trying a few steep climbs. Our guide managed to limp us back to the main road, and finally to the evening's accommodations, Homestay A Của
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/bDHyJUSDiSdMDiDV6

    We settled into our new bungalow while our guide took the motorcycle to a mechanical shop for a repair. Our host sat us near the corn cob fire with a hot cup of fresh ginger tea, perfect for warming up! Though our room had a fireplace, no one offered to light it 🔥😔

    Dinner was scrumptious, though we ate alone as S was away until 10pm trying to fix the broken motorcycle. We enjoyed the fire's warmth until retiring to our cold room, and the forecasted 5C night 🥶. Our breath was visible. Crawling under the double stacked blankets we instantly realize our sleep wasn't going to be very good: mattress the firmness of wood 🪵😔

    Today's ride was 5.5 hours.
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-VwBSvAd4hd
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  • Bắc Yên (day 3)

    24.–25. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The cocophony of roosters started singing around 4am. EVERYONE in this neighbourhood must have at least one or two to be able to produce such a reverberating chorus 🤯 A few were trying to out shine their competition with unique laughable sounds, think rubber chicken squeeze toy 🤣

    Duvets did their job, as well as the layers of clothing we wore, but the moist chill of the day was waiting to kiss us upon emerging from bed. We donned our riding gear and packed up our waterproof duffles.

    S was unsuccessful with what turned out to be an air issue for the motorcycle. He requested a new bike from the Hanoi shop and the pickup driver drove the 3 hours with it during the night. It definitely started better, though all three bikes were grumpy with the 5C cold temperature.

    Instant noodle soup with a fried egg and greens for breakfast 😏

    We started the ride into the mist. Soon we found ourselves on a narrow concrete track winding between flowering plum orchards on small steep hills around us. We had the trail all to ourselves. Before long the trail ascended a hill and narrowed to just the width of the 12" concrete. Cresting the hill revealed the decent perched along the side of a steep slope. No room for going off the slightly slippery path as we would tumble down the hill 😯

    The trail opened up, crossed a road and we did the first of many stream crossings. Good thing we have almost-waterproof boots! We joined a country road (DL43) and took a small ferry across the Da River. We zigzagged along the rivers edge for 23km. Lots of houses, business and people along this road cut into the hillside strip of land.

    Lunch was hot and fresh dishes: beef stomach, deep fried spring rolls, greens, water buffalo and rice. Stretching our legs and fueling our bodies felt good.

    We continued along the country highway until we got to Đập Suối Sập 3 Weir. We jumped onto offroad track on what seemed to be the maintenance "road" for a high voltage power line. Mud, puddles and fun. A fair number of small homes tucked along this area too.

    With some obstruction ahead we cut down the hill on a brand new trail. The jungle had been cleared and the fresh rich soft dirt had been massaged into switchbacks. It felt like a slip and slide, as regular attempts to reduce speed didn't provide grip. A precarious pair of 5" wide boards spanned a 4-foot gap of soil. S got through. J managed to squeeze by but noticed one board kicked out of place. S walked up to adjust the plank for A. Not convinced it was fixed and aware of a possibly painful tumble down a steep slippery slope with the bike, he asked S to ride it across. No luck 💩. He was lucky the front tire jumped off the board towards the hillside, with the fork resting on the wood. All three of us lifted the front tire and carefully pushed it across. 🤡 Disaster adverted!

    We crossed a small metal suspension bridge, through a small village and up a nice dirt road. Passed a herd of small goats. Along a mountain ridge elbow, with views to the valleys on both sides. Our day ended with a decent into Bắc Yên.

    Today's ride, 5hrs
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-CAhWJ0IkDb

    Our request for accomodations with heat came to fruition at the Paris Hotel 🗼❣️ We closed the open window 🥶 and cranked the mini-split! A's shower started hot, but soon was 20C 🚿😏 Alas, that little unmarked breaker outside the wet bathroom was the hot water tank control. J's shower afterwards was much nicer 😍 with a small tank full of hot water.
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/BanegFBkXYbzYXAN6

    We took the opportunity to layout our moist clothes, hand wash a couple items and dry them in front of the heater.

    Dinner was across the street at a very large, but quiet restaurant. Another unheated experience we were glad for our warm clothes and toques. Hot pot was the dish of the night. Chicken, tender beef, tofu and veggies were cooked on our table by S. We ate the hot soup as the items were cooked through.

    We relished the heat upon returning to the hotel room, hoping for a most restful sleep! 😴🤞
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  • Sơn La (day 4)

    25.–26. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We requested steam buns for breakfast, so S took us on a tour of the shops till eventually we found a bakery. We ordered a couple soybean paste buns, a savory bun (with diced mushrooms, noodles, and boiled quail egg), and a couple sesame (rice?) balls to share.

    On the way back we walked through the market, seeing everything from various services to meat, fish, and produce in the dimly lit warehouse-style building. We enjoyed our breakfast at a coffee shop while our guide went for a noodle bowl breakfast. The buns were scrumptious and a nice alternative to the noodle soup.

    S noticed he had a flat tire, but determined it was a slow leak and simply topped it up with air. He'd look for a place to repair on the way.

    We left Bac Yen, the same way we entered, but soon after took a right, and followed along the dirt track through fields of mostly harvested cassava. The leftover wood fibre was bundled and stacked, and ready for transport. Eventually we found our way back to the Da River, and followed the shore before climbing back up the valley, and over another pass.

    As we descended, the steep hillsides were covered in corn fields, that eventually gave way to strawberry fields in the valley; later learning that the locals interchsnge rice and strawberry crops.

    While S had his tire repaired, we snacked on a carton of freshly picked strawberries. We continued to zig-zag along narrow roads, passing through fruit orchards and sugarcane fields. The road dwindled down to a very narrow track taking us deeper into the area agricultural heartland, stopping briefly for lunch. It became apparent not many tourists, especially Caucasian ones, pass through the area. The locals were polite at hiding their inquisitive looks.

    S decided to try a new trail, and avoid the main road. It turned out to be a very rocky and twisty path! Other sections were loose dirt, or narrow depressions with sides 2ft+ high. Finally reaching the next village unscathed, found ourselves quiet lost locating the exit. The village appeared to be in full celebration, and on a return path were surrounded with excited and inebriated teen girls wanting photos with us. They were celebrating a wedding 💒

    S now had a flat front tire too. Two in one day! So another quick stop for the tire repair. Though we are enjoying the side roads, we're never far from stores and services. The folks enjoying a fire and boiled corn, kindly offered us some while we waited for the tire fix. Their friendly warm smiles and kindness is welcoming when we don't share a language. We finally arrived in Son La for the night.
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/24inJSRSKvwRv2847

    Dinner was a short walk away. Again we bundled up to keep warm, but at least it wasn't as freezing as the previous nights. Son La is a large feeling town and quite a lot going on. After dinner we took the long walk back to enjoy a bit more of the city.

    Today's ride 5hrs
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-OIyyTZxTj8
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  • Điện Biên (day 5)

    26.–27. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Enjoyed a couple coffees and steam buns with noodle, mushroom and meat filling again for breakfast, then headed to a local historical point of interest. The old prison of Son La was built by the French around the turn of the 20th century. It was a somber and enlightening experience learning that this location housed political prisoners. Many of the Communist leaders that help overthrow French occupied Vietnam were held here, and escaped in 1943.
    https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/son-la…

    Although Vietnam is a Communist country, it appears the tenets of the socialist political establishment aligns with the traditional way of life. You could almost consider Vietnam very liberal from the portrayed idea of an authoritive regeme and military police state you'd associate with North Korea.

    We mainly stayed on the highways and concrete road ways today, only detouring onto a couple sections of dirt track. Earlier on in the day, we passed through a cave that was roughly a kilometre long near Pan Na, labeled on Google Maps as Hang Bản Thẳm. Video is below! It was very dark and fun! And later, we passed through endless valley bottoms of terraced rice fields while the slopes higher up boasted row upon row of coffee and tea plantations. J even slightly rode into a rooster that cut him off 🐓😅 it limped a bit, but I'm sure will be fine. A almost flattened a chick, which would have been the end of it 🐥😱

    Though we are travelling outside larger cities the air isn't very fresh. Lots of burning is happening to clear fields, warm people, cook, poorly maintained vehicles and remove garbage 😥. There's an omnipresent odor and haze to the air as it mixes with moisture. Our riding gear is well marinated in it 😵‍💫

    Our route took us over three passes, with the highest on the main road; the cloud was so thick you could barely see much in front of you. It was also very cold and moist... S opted for another hotel stay to avoid spending the night in the cold at a homestay.

    The last stretch of the route took us through a tranquil forest park where we crossed three narrow bridges as the road criss-crossed the narrow and winding lake, Ho Pa Khoang.

    After zig-zagging down to the valley below, and taking the most crazy back alley and road route possible we arrived late afternoon in Muong Thanh, and relaxed a bit in our hotel room. No heat in our house room, but the concrete low highrise warm enough. https://maps.app.goo.gl/xTjisaZogrLTbR799

    Today's ride was almost 6hrs. 2730m of elevation gain with a maximum height of 1425m.
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-1Vqltt5znI
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  • Phong Thổ (day 6)

    27.–28. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We wandered across the street to a coffee shop. S took off to find us some breakfast, and came back with a Vietnamese breakfast sandwich which had been grilled like a panini. Egg, "bacon", cucumber and sauce filling. A's coffee was without sugar as he enjoys, but a very different concept to most locals. After enjoying our coffee, went for a walk, passing through the large Saturday market along the river. Everything seemed to be for sale, including some cute looking animals which likely weren't going home as someone's pet 😓.

    Next we arrived to the French Commander Bunker of Dien Bien Phu historic sight. It's a replica of the one successfully captured in May 1954 by the Viet forces.

    We then stopped at the Bảo tàng Chiến thắng Điện Biên Phủ history museum and viewed the displays of the victory of the Viet Minh. In 2021 a mural was started to display the battle in Điện Biên, painted by 200 people and took 2 years to compete! It is huge!

    We rode some fun rocky offroad sections and skinny dirt trails we would typically think of hiking on. We had a do at least three uturns as we attempted to find the way forward. The small single lane concrete mountain pass we found meandering through rural houses was completely enveloped in cloud with visibility down to 20ft. Most of the ride was on a country highway following reservoirs along more of the Da River with at least two hydroelectric dams and another early into its construction. Zig zagging back and forth was a lot of fun with almost nobody on the road. It reminded us of a video game dodging cattle, chickens, water Buffalo, construction zones only marked with branches across our lane, children playing on the sides... 🚸🙃 Weee!

    Today's ride, 170km in 4.5hrs.
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-YtE4VttEKG
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  • Sa Pa (day 7)

    28.–29. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    Woke up to the pitter-patter of rain out our window on the metal roof. It was a fantastic sleep despite the rustic authenticity of the grandiose hotel... The bathroom floor was still completely wet from the bath last night. It was a luxury to have a soak in a tub, but it wasn't installed properly and they simply let the drain splash on the floor allowing it to find its way to the floor's drain in the corner 🤯 Silly A thought we wouldn't have to wear the provided flip flops to keep our feet dry when using the toilet 🚽🤔 On the plus side we've never had to use a squat style one so far 👍

    By the time we met up with S for breakfast, the rain had stopped. We found a street vender selling Vietnamese sandwiches that we took back to enjoy with our coffees.

    The roads were still damp as we started our travels. We followed the highways for a short distance before veering onto side roads, criss-crossing the river over the many narrow suspension bridges. The valley we rode through was fairly narrow, and rough. Passed through a lot of road widening constructions, as well as a couple hydro generating stations. One powerhouse was under construction with no fencing between the road and the works!

    The narrow and wild valley gave way to a wider and more cultivated area. Eventually S chose a roadside diner that seemed sufficient for our mid day meal; pretty typical fair of steamed greens, ginger and garlic water Buffalo, and rice. You've seen the photos from previous days 😉

    Our destination was roughly 40km away, but it felt like an eternity as we acceded the next mountain pass, and into the cold and damp cloud. The accent took us up 1600m where we passed a tourist location called Heaven's Gate. We didn't stop as the clouds was so thick you could barely see 20 feet ahead, but we could almost glimpse a golden multi-faced budda statue. The decent was challenging as the last 15km was under heavy construction, minimal signage, and poor visibility. Too bad we can't put the bike into autopilot and have a nap 😉

    We finally made it to the hotel by mid-afternoon, and were thankful to stop due to the chill penetrating into us. The whole city of Sa Pa was engulfed in dense fog. There's a view out there which draws many tourists, but perhaps we'll not get a chance to see it. 😶‍🌫️

    Our room heating isn't the best, but much better than noting! A was very excited to discover they have electric heat blankets for the bed too 🔥🛏️👍

    We enjoyed a wander around the city and a cocktail at the a tourist bar with a small wood/coal stove for heat. We passed quiet a few other ones that looked utterly freezing ❄️🐻‍❄️. Since we were in the big city our guide treated us to non-local food: pizza and pasta! We enjoyed tasting local corn and apple wine to accompany it 🍕🌽🍷😋 We chose to retire to our room for relaxing instead of venturing to another chilly bar for another beverage.

    Ride info
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-GhKlE83ZT8
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  • Bac Ha (day 8)

    29.–30. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Woke up to the omnipresent dense fog that refuses to lift. Only briefly did it disperse enough to see down the valley a bit at this cliff-perched city of Sa Pa.

    Our breakfast option was very Western with J enjoying the local's take on an omelet, and A a banana crepe-like pancake, along with freshly blended passion fruit juice and a fruit platter. The baguette was warm and very crusty with a spread similar to pureed marmalade.

    S suggested a later start of 10am as we only had about 180km on the next stretch of the route.

    We descended 1000m to the valley below were we finally got to see patches of blue sky and sun for the first time in eight days! S decided to stop for a coffee break at a cafe near the river. We were humoured with the school teacher trying to direct the kids to unload a truck and carry big 75" TVs across the narrow suspension bridge because the delivery truck was too wide.

    A was courteously approached by an older local woman to have a look and buy some of her wares. Her English was incredibly good too, and enquired what country we were were from. We purchased a couple souvenir items from her, not bothering to barter as it supports local. 😊

    We continued on, crossings another couple narrow suspension bridges before heading north through a very narrow and rugged valley with a series of tall dams.

    After about 74km, found our way in to the city of Lào Cai for lunch. Not too far down the road we pulled in to a lookout spot, and could see the Chinese village of Chengqu cross the Nam Thi River that delineates the Vietnam-China boarder.

    Onwards we road, following the main highway for a bit, then onto the smaller country roads with intermittent concrete and lots of dirt/mud sections. It had just stopped raining. Eventually we headed more north and along sums very rough and muddy track that took us back in to the dense fog. Thankfully it was alot warmer than the previous day, and we worked up a sweat as we literally bounced and splashed asking the route with our derrieres taking a bit of a beating 🫨

    Finally just after 5pm we found our way in to our evening accommodation, and enjoyed a good shower once the mud was sprayed off with a pressure washer. For the first time we enjoyed a room which was preheated for us! ☺️

    Dinner was at the hotel too. The hot pot spread was more suited for 6 people, not only us three, but we did our best! Their rice wine was the best tasting so we savoured half the bottle 😋

    Ride info
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-e69KE1kugm
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  • Phương độ (day 9)

    30.–31. tammik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Part way through the night A decided we needed both comforters, so we added one on top of the mattress as the bed was too firm. The roosters were a little too excited at 230am, so in went the ear plugs. Had a nice casual start to the day with coffee and breakfast, and we were on our way just after 9am.

    S stopped in front of Hoang A Tuong Palace on our way out of town. It belonged to a wealthy land owner, and the mansion was completed in 1921. It's now getting renovated as over a century has taken its toll.
    https://laocaitourism.vn/en/detailnews/?t=hoang…

    The fog was still present, but we manged to find a pocket of sun in the next valley over. A's motorcycle started to behave funny, and thought it might be sputtering due to a fuel shortage 🤔. Thankfully a flip of the valve for the reserve tank and we were off again. S wasn't too concerned know the tank was empty, and we continued on. The side route took us through a bunch of road construction as well as more fog. Thankfully the fog gave way, and we enjoyed zipping through the forest shade and cultivated landscapes. We eventually made it back to the highway and found a place for a coffee stop and a gas station.

    We found ourselves on a road through a steep and narrow valley. It was much dryer here, and the slopes were blanketed with lots of pine trees. We passed a couple more reservoirs and hydro generation stations.

    Stopped for a noodle soup bowl lunch in Vinh Quang before ducking off the main road again. The concrete path soon deteriorated in to a narrow, often steep, and mucky track. S decided to run our motorcycles up the worst of the two stretches to limit wear and tear on the clutches. Yes, the locals do ride the same trails 2-up on their scooters, but they also not standard transmissions 🙃 With only 8 days of offroad riding behind us we were tired and welcomed the assistance.

    The "road" we emerged on was a complete mud pit. Heavy work vehicles and construction made the road nearly impassable. Imagine mud soup! Once we crested the pass, the rough and windy road jittered our jowls all the way down to the smooth main road. Ha Giang's main street is very long and wide. It felt like a video game racing past everyone regardless of road rules, because there really aren't any here. Eventually S did his classic last-second look around, hammered on the breaks, signalled and turned off the main road which lead to our evenings accomodations.

    Cay's Homestay is quite nice! The beds are soft, water was already hot, and room warm 🤗 The evening's meal was shared at the table with a French couple and their car tour guide, as well as some of the homestay family. The meal was large and delicious. Afterwards we enjoyed a short walk "around the block."

    Ride info, 151km and almost 7 hours 🫠
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-m0B08Kw6US
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  • Đồng Văn (day 10)

    31. tammik.–1. helmik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Although our sleeping quarters were situated at the back of the homestay, we were happy the imbibed karaoke for the wedding across the road stopped early in the evening. Definitely had one of the best sleeps on the trip. The mattress was the right softness.

    Our hosts treated us to crepes with bright yellow local honey for breakfast. The provided tea was refreshing, but had a sharp flavour, strangely similar to pine sap... Coffee was instant-milk style. After pouring in the hot water to the glass A noticed a bit of liquid under the glass. He realized it must have a crack in it. He quickly walked over to the edge of the patio and then it sheared in half spilling its contents safely into the garden below 😲

    As we left our homestay, we had a much better view of the nearby mountains, which appeared more like a spiny back of a serpent. We followed the main road for a few kilometres before taking a side route through more mud, and very rural mountain villages, eventually reconnecting with the main road. It definitely got quite twisty in a couple places as we ascended the passes, and back down in to the valleys below. Up and down the mountain is the theme here ⛰️

    We were following behind a police truck. Then they waved a while baton out the window. They wanted us to pull over. It was the first of three license checks today. They thankfully accepted the digital international drivers licenses on our phones. By the third stop S told them about the other 2, plus they were really busy with a herd of scooter riders 🛵😂, so they waved us onwards.

    We followed the river at the base of a steep valley, then veered off again on to more tight switch backs, and picturesque passes. There was noticeably more tour group traffic; most on scooters with guides chauffeuring the tourist. S decided on a quick lunch stop in Yen Minh, where we met by another group of off-road tour adventurers, like ourselves. Two Aussies and two Brits.

    As luck worlds have it, the next view point we stopped at provided a great view of the zig-zag track and valley below; apparently it's often socked in with cloud. As we further ascended in to the saddle valley above, we were graced with clear skies and SUN! It was also noticeably warmer too. The darker lush and manicured landscape we'd become accustomed to gave way to dry and rough rocky terrain.

    S ducked of the main road again and we traversed steep jagged canyons. The intermittent narrow concrete roads gave way to kidney jarring rocky pathways. There were much fewer homesteads, and mostly located at the bottom of the valleys. Check out the time-lapse video!

    Another narrow track took us higher in to the mountains, providing a great northern view of the walled Chinese boarder across the valley, and eventually descended into Đồng Văn for our evening accommodations.

    S pointed out a pathway to a lookout as we entered town. As it was only mid-afternoon, we decided to go for a hike once we settled in and cleaned up at the hotel. Turns out the view point is actually the ruins of an old French Fort.
    http://dongvangeopark.com/chuyen-muc-demo/dong-…
    https://north-vietnam.com/dong-van-ancient-town/

    Ride info, 140km
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-0OH4oFjP90
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  • Bảo Lạc (day 11)

    1.–2. helmik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A gorgeous sunny morning welcomed us, and another casual start to the day with a couple coffees at a chic cafe & bar. S found us banana pancakes that he brought over from next door. Definitely a tourist hot spot as we saw many groups of doubles on scooter tours leaving town. Luckily the swarms of guided tourists stay to the main roads, so we had a relaxed ride on the side roads through picturesque valleys and villages. We found ourselves at a fresh pour of concrete for a 10m section of road. Thankfully there was a couple tire widths on the shoulder next to the steep hillside for us to skillfully not make a mistake 😯

    Pulled into Meo Vac for fuel and a quick lunch, then we were off again, sticking to the main road this time. We pulled into a lookout point where our bikes were blocked in by a couple other bike tour groups. We waited for them to leave and quickly zoomed past them. After a few zig-zags on the main road S lead us off-road again. Unfortunately the route he had planned was under construction by the local village so we were forced to turn back. As fortunes would have it, we had to back track a couple more times before we did find a way through to the other side of the valley. We got to use our engine-off coasting technique on a slippy mud section.

    Eventually we found our way to the Sông Nho Quế River where we drove onto a bamboo raft to ferry across. A steep slope awaited us in the other side to we reach what appeared to be the main road getting ready for resurfacing.

    We enjoyed the warm ride, although rough in places, with the cool breeze as we basked in the afternoon sun. We zipped through little villages till we finally reached Bảo Lạc by late afternoon. It was 22C, and the streets were bustling with activity with throngs of people enjoying the endless street market.

    After taking a moment to clean up and cool down at the hotel, we ventured out in the post-sunset twilight. We soon meet up with S, who took us to a riverside eatery, and bartered with a local vender for half of a rotisserie duck! Funny enough, it doesn't seem to be an issue in Vietnam to bring outside food in to an establishment, as long as you buy stuff from them too. We continued on our walk after dinner, eventually meandering back to the hotel for a much needed rest after 5 hours on the bikes in the heat. Quite the contrast from wearing many layers with rain last week! Alas, our hotel beds are pretty hard again 😩: duvet under for cushion and one on top for warmth.

    Today's ride, 110km and 5hrs
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-4RE1VnIwkw
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  • Quảng Uyên (day 12)

    2.–3. helmik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A typical start to the day, but we decided to opt for a lighter breakfast of fresh fruit with our black coffees. The street was bustling again with vendors displaying their wares. The shop between the hotel and cafe had skinned pig heads smoking 🐷. S said it’s a delicacy, and used thinly sliced in various dishes around Lunar New Years. A spotted a vendor with deep Fried bread balls. They had a little sweet bean paste inside, chewy and delicious 😜

    We left town, destined for Khau Coc Cha Mountain pass. We were excited as the photos in the hotel lobby looked like we were in a for an epic ride. S mentioned that some tourists had issues riding the road and were injured 😵 so they were improving the road to widen the turns 😔 Sadly, the whole area was under construction repair, and very rough. Thankfully no one was working, so our ride was fairly unobstructed. The continuous mountain ridges and cascading valleys provided a number of smaller steep passes with multiple tight corners for our riding pleasure, making up for the anticlimactic initial pass…

    Our trajectory kept us close to the China-Vietnam boarder where we found ourselves on an intermittently muddy track with the occasional "Vietnam Boarder Beltline" sign we can only assume indicates the road is primarily used for patrols. We connected with the main road and veered through the Vietnam boarder town, Sóc Giang.

    Heading east for a short stint brought us to Ha Quang, where we stopped in the 24C heat for a quick lunch of the usual fare. After our break we zipped along a narrow track highway, and various single track concrete roads. S decided the ride was in need of a little more off-road action, so took us on a detour through a very rugged and rocky trail meandering through some of the local farms.

    Eventually we found ourselves in a lush green rolling field scattered with various herds grazing. We wondered why there wasn’t much farming in the valley, only to find out it floods into a shallow lake during summer. After a couple bends in the valley, we had an amazing view of a mountain with One Eye (Nui Mat Than), the eye. We waved to the group of Aussies and Brits we had met a couple days earlier, but they were going the other direction. We soon found out why. A nearly impassable short section that took all three of us to maneuver the bikes through the slippery muddy rocky path, one at a time. We were exhausted and drenched in sweat after 30 minutes of slipping, lifting, and pushing. The effort paid off as the valley continued to open up in a heavenly lost-world fashion.

    One final steep muddy slope, and we were on a flat mucky track back to the main road. We stopped briefly to hose off the mud and manure before meandering through the twisty flat valleys, and into Quảng Uyên for the night at our hotel.

    It's the first hotel with a shower stall of glass! Only half the bathroom got wet as it still leaked a bit. Amazingly the beds are not rock hard 🥳

    Dinner was scrumptious! "KFC" chicken, as S called it; very tender too! Sweet and sour mini ribs, greens with garlic, pickled cabbage and fried rice.
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  • Cao Bằng (day 13)

    3.–4. helmik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    S brought us to a very unique cafe for coffee. A quaint garden and courtyard decorated for the upcoming new years festivities. A noticed they had fruit in the fridge, and ordered a plater to enjoy with our coffees, while S procured breakfast sandwiches at a nearby vendor.

    Our destination was rough roughly 50km away near the Chinese boarder to view the spectacular Ban Gioc Waterfalls. We headed north and east following the main road. Eventually we left the main road, and crisscrossed the Quay Son river along country roads, passing through multiple little villages. Finally arriving at the falls, where the river drops 30m, and separates Vietnam and China. S was adventurous and decided pictures with a horse would be fun. We enjoyed almost 45 minutes leisurely waking.

    Shortly after leaving the falls S veered off the main road through rural farmland trails. Our path eventually lead to a creek bed that we crisscrossed a few times till the path took us through fields and pastures. We realized we were doing a backtrack loop when we stopped for lunch in a town we’d passed through earlier. We continued heading south and west, passing the hotel we’d stayed at the night before, completing the roughly 100km loop to the falls.

    We noticed a number of stalls along the road selling various types and styles of knives. Later we passed through a village with all types of smithy's that produced the knives. See the video!

    The rest of the afternoon was spent mostly on side roads with the occasional rocky dirt path hugging a stream, including more water crossings; should have put the rain pants on today… One crossing was quiet difficult, up a sloped rocky area with water flowing, so we let S take our bikes over too. We've learned a lot in a short time, but no sense in trying it all too quickly. The boots are supposed to be waterproof, but didn’t feel like testing them out again!

    Late afternoon found us at our accommodation in Cao Bang. A wasn't feeling 100%, likely from that breakfast sandwich, so he enjoyed resting before dinner.

    A hunt for a local dinner place was "interesting." We veto'd the street BBQ (no refrigeration in 25C heat), and the second restaurant displaying pre-cooked dishes without food safe storage 🫣. The third place was cooking it on the front step! We opted for veggie fried noodles. The meat options were also just hanging out on a table 🙃...

    After dinner was a short walk to enjoy the new years lights.

    Today's ride
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-OdBSQd1Krw
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  • Vườn Hoa Cốc Tộc (day 14)

    4.–5. helmik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our day started off with S taking us to a nearby modern cafe, with the usual coffee and light fruit breakfast. A young boy was quite captivated by the fact we were tourists and kept trying to come over, but his group tried to keep him from pestering us. His tenacity eventually won out, and he repeatedly came over and asked a question in english, then run back and talk to one of the adults who was helping him translate the questions and our responses.

    There was definitely a lot of energy out on the streets as the shop owners put out there wares, and the setup for the upcoming celebrations. Leaving the city was a bit chaotic 🙃

    We spent most of the day on asphalt or concrete roads, only veering onto a dirt path once. The local communities were doing some repairs, so avoided a couple sections of freshly poured concrete. The wooded section of trail was quite steep and wet mud, so took a lot of concentration to get up. A carefully laid his bike down when his back tire kicked out on slippery mud. J came to assist lifting it up 💪. It was also very hot and muggy out, so we worked up a sweat. A section of road went right under some houses! About 4.5ft clearance. It caught S unprepared and he dropped his bike on the concrete, but both were fine! Thankfully S found a place to stop for a cold beverage not much farther down the road as we needed to take a rest from the busy morning.

    Our route took us through a couple low passes, but a fair bit of haze hung in the valleys despite the apparent clear skies far above. Around 1pm S found a place to stop for lunch as the town we fuelled up in didn’t seem to offer much.

    By late afternoon we once again found a narrow concrete path, taking us along a section of the Nang River, through a limestone canyon. The river flowed through a large cavern called Puong Cave. Unfortunately the water level was too low to be picked up by the boat near the suspension bridged, as previously arranged. A quick u-turn and we were back to other side of the cave to catch our ferry boat. The narrow flate bottomed boat navigated down a short section of Nang river before crossing Ba Be lake, and into the Ba Be National Park! Such a fun experience to have a private water taxi like this 🚕💦

    Our accommodations for the evening was another home stay, but a little upgrade as we requested a private room instead of the big-room similar to our first night. The bungalow we enjoyed was perched on the steep hillside over looking a narrow arm of the lake. It's the most enjoyable stay so far! The beds are comfortable too! Dinner was delicious and reminded us of home cooking! The smoked pork dish was delicious 🐖😋
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  • Vu Linh (day 15)

    5.–6. helmik. 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Our hosts provided crepe pancakes and preserves, with tea and packet-coffee to start the day. S took us further down the road, briefly along Ba Be lake shore, before following a narrow valley with small farming plots. The locals were getting the fields prepared for the planting after lunar new years.

    Our path followed a meandering creek. Thankfully S warned us we'd be crossing it a few times, so A put on his rain pants after the other day's water crossing antics. Majority of the ford's were shallow and quick. However, there were two that involved riding partially upstream. About 3-feet deep! S misjudged one crossing and both he and J were drenched, and had water logged boots... A opted for a less immersive crossing a few meters back. Waterlogged passports probably aren't the best 🤔 Luckily it was a dry warm day, so J didn't stay too wet for too long. Though his boots were another story 👢😔

    Eventually we merged with the main road, then meandered back onto smaller concrete roads. The highlight of the day was a chiseled pathway that followed a small river in a tight canyon; very reminiscent of the Othello tunnels near Hope BC, but on a much smaller and less rugged scale.

    By noon, we arrived in Ngoc Hoi where we fueled up, then stopped for a drink. We ended up having lunch there as well; greasy fries and fried chicken. I don't think the fryer temperature was hot enough. Not our ideal lunch, but a nice change from the usual. The remainder of the day was mostly broken-asphalt and dusty roads, with the occasional trail shortcut to the next valley. This region has lots pomelo and orange orchards! Our afternoon water break at a small store was entertaining, as the two middle age ladies were very amused by us tourists, as they've never seen any 😎

    By late afternoon we arrived near Ho Thuy Dien Thac Ba lake, and the evening homestay.

    Cozy room with good AC. Water ran dry at the end of the second shower. Turns out they have a cistern and it takes a while to replenish from the well 🙃

    Dinner was delicious. The owner of the homestay joined us too. Lots of apple flavoured rice wine shots. 🍏🍷😋

    Another Vietnamese family staying here joined us for a brief visit. Conversation enjoyable as the English was very good. Their eleven year old daughter was very social. She was very curious about our travels, Canada and its weather.

    Today's ride, 5hrs for 150km 😎
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-HwgHIkceFm
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  • Hanoi (day 16)

    6. helmikuuta 2024, Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Our homestay hosts provided a simple breakfast of crepe pancakes, fried eggs, and packet coffee. The day itself was dreary and overcast. We were also smoked out by the neighbour's brush pile fire 🔥😵‍💫

    The ride back to Hanoi was pretty uneventful and quick, staying mostly to the hard surface roads. S did take us through more orchards by a narrow steep track. The view at the crest was pretty spectacular despite the growing haze as the city neared. Eventually we crossed the Lo River, that we had followed a couple days earlier, and then along the Red River towards Hanoi.

    Soon the zippy highways gave way to a narrow bustling road that followed the dyke. It was quiet congested in spots where popup markets had formed. At one point traffic completely stopped while people bartered and weighed cages of poultry, ignoring the horns and chaos they had created by completely impending traffic.

    As expected, the traffic got denser even as the roads widened. We did pretty well to keep up with S as he weaved in and out of the scooter masses. A quick refuel on the way in, and then a pretty crazy and chaotic ride finally back to the shop to gather our stored luggage. We said our farewells and headed for the hotel we'd stayed at previously on our arrival.

    A made an attempt at a nearby laundermat, but they were not accepting more clothing. Thankfully the hotel was able to take and wash our soiled clothing and gear in record time.

    Once freshened up, we met up with our friends from Canada whom we had coordinated our travels with to Hanoi. We decided on a walk down the block to The Skyline rooftop lounge for happy hour celebration cocktails. Dinner was at a pasta and wood fired pizza restaurant near our hotel. Delicious to enjoy some variety compared to the last two weeks 🍕

    As the night was still early, went for a walk to find a night market. Turns out the it only happens on the weekends when they also close the streets to vehicles. We did find a number of booths, but the traffic was insane, and the two kids were starting to fade.

    As luck would have it, H, whom we met from our stay in Whitchurch, UK, back in August, was in Hanoi as well! We met up with him, and shared a couple drinks discussing our recent travels. Turns out he had just finished up a four day scooter tour on the Ha Giang loop, which our tour path crossed.

    As we had an early start the next day to Halong bay, we didn't stay out too long visiting.
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