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Travels 2.0

November 2023 - March 2024
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  • Travels 2.0
    1
    Day 70–71

    Mộc Châu (day 2)

    January 23 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    It was a chilly night, even dressed as we were with an extra blanket, and no additional heat... Sleep was fitul, and the roosters were excited to call out the new day. We stayed in bed much longer than usual to prolong the warm feeling.

    Once up, we packed and got ready for the day. Our host provided a delicious and simple European style breakfast; the bread was fresh and warm, and the fried banana pancake was heavenly!

    Our guide, S, took us on a little tour through the villages, and up though a narrow concrete road into the mountains, passing through many little villages. Eventually we came to a fork in the road, and took the dirt path. We crossed multiple RICKETY bridges, and a number of very muddy and slick sections or path. Our first time offroad riding so some minor tumbles for the bikes, but we were safe! We definitely worked up a sweat with all the hard and precarious riding. Thankfully we found a highway again that took us higher into the mountains, and cloud. A quick lunch stop for bowls of hot noodle soup, and we were on our way again.

    Not too far later we stopped for a coffee break. J noticed his motorcycle was having issues, and keep stalling. After we went off road again through some spectacular valleys lines with flowering plum trees. We came to the conclusion the clutch was finished after stalling out trying a few steep climbs. Our guide managed to limp us back to the main road, and finally to the evening's accommodations, Homestay A Của
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/bDHyJUSDiSdMDiDV6

    We settled into our new bungalow while our guide took the motorcycle to a mechanical shop for a repair. Our host sat us near the corn cob fire with a hot cup of fresh ginger tea, perfect for warming up! Though our room had a fireplace, no one offered to light it 🔥😔

    Dinner was scrumptious, though we ate alone as S was away until 10pm trying to fix the broken motorcycle. We enjoyed the fire's warmth until retiring to our cold room, and the forecasted 5C night 🥶. Our breath was visible. Crawling under the double stacked blankets we instantly realize our sleep wasn't going to be very good: mattress the firmness of wood 🪵😔

    Today's ride was 5.5 hours.
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-VwBSvAd4hd    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    Day 71–72

    Bắc Yên (day 3)

    January 24 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    The cocophony of roosters started singing around 4am. EVERYONE in this neighbourhood must have at least one or two to be able to produce such a reverberating chorus 🤯 A few were trying to out shine their competition with unique laughable sounds, think rubber chicken squeeze toy 🤣

    Duvets did their job, as well as the layers of clothing we wore, but the moist chill of the day was waiting to kiss us upon emerging from bed. We donned our riding gear and packed up our waterproof duffles.

    S was unsuccessful with what turned out to be an air issue for the motorcycle. He requested a new bike from the Hanoi shop and the pickup driver drove the 3 hours with it during the night. It definitely started better, though all three bikes were grumpy with the 5C cold temperature.

    Instant noodle soup with a fried egg and greens for breakfast 😏

    We started the ride into the mist. Soon we found ourselves on a narrow concrete track winding between flowering plum orchards on small steep hills around us. We had the trail all to ourselves. Before long the trail ascended a hill and narrowed to just the width of the 12" concrete. Cresting the hill revealed the decent perched along the side of a steep slope. No room for going off the slightly slippery path as we would tumble down the hill 😯

    The trail opened up, crossed a road and we did the first of many stream crossings. Good thing we have almost-waterproof boots! We joined a country road (DL43) and took a small ferry across the Da River. We zigzagged along the rivers edge for 23km. Lots of houses, business and people along this road cut into the hillside strip of land.

    Lunch was hot and fresh dishes: beef stomach, deep fried spring rolls, greens, water buffalo and rice. Stretching our legs and fueling our bodies felt good.

    We continued along the country highway until we got to Đập Suối Sập 3 Weir. We jumped onto offroad track on what seemed to be the maintenance "road" for a high voltage power line. Mud, puddles and fun. A fair number of small homes tucked along this area too.

    With some obstruction ahead we cut down the hill on a brand new trail. The jungle had been cleared and the fresh rich soft dirt had been massaged into switchbacks. It felt like a slip and slide, as regular attempts to reduce speed didn't provide grip. A precarious pair of 5" wide boards spanned a 4-foot gap of soil. S got through. J managed to squeeze by but noticed one board kicked out of place. S walked up to adjust the plank for A. Not convinced it was fixed and aware of a possibly painful tumble down a steep slippery slope with the bike, he asked S to ride it across. No luck 💩. He was lucky the front tire jumped off the board towards the hillside, with the fork resting on the wood. All three of us lifted the front tire and carefully pushed it across. 🤡 Disaster adverted!

    We crossed a small metal suspension bridge, through a small village and up a nice dirt road. Passed a herd of small goats. Along a mountain ridge elbow, with views to the valleys on both sides. Our day ended with a decent into Bắc Yên.

    Today's ride, 5hrs
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-CAhWJ0IkDb

    Our request for accomodations with heat came to fruition at the Paris Hotel 🗼❣️ We closed the open window 🥶 and cranked the mini-split! A's shower started hot, but soon was 20C 🚿😏 Alas, that little unmarked breaker outside the wet bathroom was the hot water tank control. J's shower afterwards was much nicer 😍 with a small tank full of hot water.
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/BanegFBkXYbzYXAN6

    We took the opportunity to layout our moist clothes, hand wash a couple items and dry them in front of the heater.

    Dinner was across the street at a very large, but quiet restaurant. Another unheated experience we were glad for our warm clothes and toques. Hot pot was the dish of the night. Chicken, tender beef, tofu and veggies were cooked on our table by S. We ate the hot soup as the items were cooked through.

    We relished the heat upon returning to the hotel room, hoping for a most restful sleep! 😴🤞    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    Day 72–73

    Sơn La (day 4)

    January 25 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We requested steam buns for breakfast, so S took us on a tour of the shops till eventually we found a bakery. We ordered a couple soybean paste buns, a savory bun (with diced mushrooms, noodles, and boiled quail egg), and a couple sesame (rice?) balls to share.

    On the way back we walked through the market, seeing everything from various services to meat, fish, and produce in the dimly lit warehouse-style building. We enjoyed our breakfast at a coffee shop while our guide went for a noodle bowl breakfast. The buns were scrumptious and a nice alternative to the noodle soup.

    S noticed he had a flat tire, but determined it was a slow leak and simply topped it up with air. He'd look for a place to repair on the way.

    We left Bac Yen, the same way we entered, but soon after took a right, and followed along the dirt track through fields of mostly harvested cassava. The leftover wood fibre was bundled and stacked, and ready for transport. Eventually we found our way back to the Da River, and followed the shore before climbing back up the valley, and over another pass.

    As we descended, the steep hillsides were covered in corn fields, that eventually gave way to strawberry fields in the valley; later learning that the locals interchsnge rice and strawberry crops.

    While S had his tire repaired, we snacked on a carton of freshly picked strawberries. We continued to zig-zag along narrow roads, passing through fruit orchards and sugarcane fields. The road dwindled down to a very narrow track taking us deeper into the area agricultural heartland, stopping briefly for lunch. It became apparent not many tourists, especially Caucasian ones, pass through the area. The locals were polite at hiding their inquisitive looks.

    S decided to try a new trail, and avoid the main road. It turned out to be a very rocky and twisty path! Other sections were loose dirt, or narrow depressions with sides 2ft+ high. Finally reaching the next village unscathed, found ourselves quiet lost locating the exit. The village appeared to be in full celebration, and on a return path were surrounded with excited and inebriated teen girls wanting photos with us. They were celebrating a wedding 💒

    S now had a flat front tire too. Two in one day! So another quick stop for the tire repair. Though we are enjoying the side roads, we're never far from stores and services. The folks enjoying a fire and boiled corn, kindly offered us some while we waited for the tire fix. Their friendly warm smiles and kindness is welcoming when we don't share a language. We finally arrived in Son La for the night.
    https://maps.app.goo.gl/24inJSRSKvwRv2847

    Dinner was a short walk away. Again we bundled up to keep warm, but at least it wasn't as freezing as the previous nights. Son La is a large feeling town and quite a lot going on. After dinner we took the long walk back to enjoy a bit more of the city.

    Today's ride 5hrs
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-OIyyTZxTj8    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    11
    Day 73–74

    Điện Biên (day 5)

    January 26 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Enjoyed a couple coffees and steam buns with noodle, mushroom and meat filling again for breakfast, then headed to a local historical point of interest. The old prison of Son La was built by the French around the turn of the 20th century. It was a somber and enlightening experience learning that this location housed political prisoners. Many of the Communist leaders that help overthrow French occupied Vietnam were held here, and escaped in 1943.
    https://www.vietnamonline.com/attraction/son-la…

    Although Vietnam is a Communist country, it appears the tenets of the socialist political establishment aligns with the traditional way of life. You could almost consider Vietnam very liberal from the portrayed idea of an authoritive regeme and military police state you'd associate with North Korea.

    We mainly stayed on the highways and concrete road ways today, only detouring onto a couple sections of dirt track. Earlier on in the day, we passed through a cave that was roughly a kilometre long near Pan Na, labeled on Google Maps as Hang Bản Thẳm. Video is below! It was very dark and fun! And later, we passed through endless valley bottoms of terraced rice fields while the slopes higher up boasted row upon row of coffee and tea plantations. J even slightly rode into a rooster that cut him off 🐓😅 it limped a bit, but I'm sure will be fine. A almost flattened a chick, which would have been the end of it 🐥😱

    Though we are travelling outside larger cities the air isn't very fresh. Lots of burning is happening to clear fields, warm people, cook, poorly maintained vehicles and remove garbage 😥. There's an omnipresent odor and haze to the air as it mixes with moisture. Our riding gear is well marinated in it 😵‍💫

    Our route took us over three passes, with the highest on the main road; the cloud was so thick you could barely see much in front of you. It was also very cold and moist... S opted for another hotel stay to avoid spending the night in the cold at a homestay.

    The last stretch of the route took us through a tranquil forest park where we crossed three narrow bridges as the road criss-crossed the narrow and winding lake, Ho Pa Khoang.

    After zig-zagging down to the valley below, and taking the most crazy back alley and road route possible we arrived late afternoon in Muong Thanh, and relaxed a bit in our hotel room. No heat in our house room, but the concrete low highrise warm enough. https://maps.app.goo.gl/xTjisaZogrLTbR799

    Today's ride was almost 6hrs. 2730m of elevation gain with a maximum height of 1425m.
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-1Vqltt5znI    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    Day 74–75

    Phong Thổ (day 6)

    January 27 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We wandered across the street to a coffee shop. S took off to find us some breakfast, and came back with a Vietnamese breakfast sandwich which had been grilled like a panini. Egg, "bacon", cucumber and sauce filling. A's coffee was without sugar as he enjoys, but a very different concept to most locals. After enjoying our coffee, went for a walk, passing through the large Saturday market along the river. Everything seemed to be for sale, including some cute looking animals which likely weren't going home as someone's pet 😓.

    Next we arrived to the French Commander Bunker of Dien Bien Phu historic sight. It's a replica of the one successfully captured in May 1954 by the Viet forces.

    We then stopped at the Bảo tàng Chiến thắng Điện Biên Phủ history museum and viewed the displays of the victory of the Viet Minh. In 2021 a mural was started to display the battle in Điện Biên, painted by 200 people and took 2 years to compete! It is huge!

    We rode some fun rocky offroad sections and skinny dirt trails we would typically think of hiking on. We had a do at least three uturns as we attempted to find the way forward. The small single lane concrete mountain pass we found meandering through rural houses was completely enveloped in cloud with visibility down to 20ft. Most of the ride was on a country highway following reservoirs along more of the Da River with at least two hydroelectric dams and another early into its construction. Zig zagging back and forth was a lot of fun with almost nobody on the road. It reminded us of a video game dodging cattle, chickens, water Buffalo, construction zones only marked with branches across our lane, children playing on the sides... 🚸🙃 Weee!

    Today's ride, 170km in 4.5hrs.
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-YtE4VttEKG    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    Day 75–76

    Sa Pa (day 7)

    January 28 in Vietnam ⋅ 🌫 8 °C

    Woke up to the pitter-patter of rain out our window on the metal roof. It was a fantastic sleep despite the rustic authenticity of the grandiose hotel... The bathroom floor was still completely wet from the bath last night. It was a luxury to have a soak in a tub, but it wasn't installed properly and they simply let the drain splash on the floor allowing it to find its way to the floor's drain in the corner 🤯 Silly A thought we wouldn't have to wear the provided flip flops to keep our feet dry when using the toilet 🚽🤔 On the plus side we've never had to use a squat style one so far 👍

    By the time we met up with S for breakfast, the rain had stopped. We found a street vender selling Vietnamese sandwiches that we took back to enjoy with our coffees.

    The roads were still damp as we started our travels. We followed the highways for a short distance before veering onto side roads, criss-crossing the river over the many narrow suspension bridges. The valley we rode through was fairly narrow, and rough. Passed through a lot of road widening constructions, as well as a couple hydro generating stations. One powerhouse was under construction with no fencing between the road and the works!

    The narrow and wild valley gave way to a wider and more cultivated area. Eventually S chose a roadside diner that seemed sufficient for our mid day meal; pretty typical fair of steamed greens, ginger and garlic water Buffalo, and rice. You've seen the photos from previous days 😉

    Our destination was roughly 40km away, but it felt like an eternity as we acceded the next mountain pass, and into the cold and damp cloud. The accent took us up 1600m where we passed a tourist location called Heaven's Gate. We didn't stop as the clouds was so thick you could barely see 20 feet ahead, but we could almost glimpse a golden multi-faced budda statue. The decent was challenging as the last 15km was under heavy construction, minimal signage, and poor visibility. Too bad we can't put the bike into autopilot and have a nap 😉

    We finally made it to the hotel by mid-afternoon, and were thankful to stop due to the chill penetrating into us. The whole city of Sa Pa was engulfed in dense fog. There's a view out there which draws many tourists, but perhaps we'll not get a chance to see it. 😶‍🌫️

    Our room heating isn't the best, but much better than noting! A was very excited to discover they have electric heat blankets for the bed too 🔥🛏️👍

    We enjoyed a wander around the city and a cocktail at the a tourist bar with a small wood/coal stove for heat. We passed quiet a few other ones that looked utterly freezing ❄️🐻‍❄️. Since we were in the big city our guide treated us to non-local food: pizza and pasta! We enjoyed tasting local corn and apple wine to accompany it 🍕🌽🍷😋 We chose to retire to our room for relaxing instead of venturing to another chilly bar for another beverage.

    Ride info
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-GhKlE83ZT8    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    1
    Day 76–77

    Bac Ha (day 8)

    January 29 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Woke up to the omnipresent dense fog that refuses to lift. Only briefly did it disperse enough to see down the valley a bit at this cliff-perched city of Sa Pa.

    Our breakfast option was very Western with J enjoying the local's take on an omelet, and A a banana crepe-like pancake, along with freshly blended passion fruit juice and a fruit platter. The baguette was warm and very crusty with a spread similar to pureed marmalade.

    S suggested a later start of 10am as we only had about 180km on the next stretch of the route.

    We descended 1000m to the valley below were we finally got to see patches of blue sky and sun for the first time in eight days! S decided to stop for a coffee break at a cafe near the river. We were humoured with the school teacher trying to direct the kids to unload a truck and carry big 75" TVs across the narrow suspension bridge because the delivery truck was too wide.

    A was courteously approached by an older local woman to have a look and buy some of her wares. Her English was incredibly good too, and enquired what country we were were from. We purchased a couple souvenir items from her, not bothering to barter as it supports local. 😊

    We continued on, crossings another couple narrow suspension bridges before heading north through a very narrow and rugged valley with a series of tall dams.

    After about 74km, found our way in to the city of Lào Cai for lunch. Not too far down the road we pulled in to a lookout spot, and could see the Chinese village of Chengqu cross the Nam Thi River that delineates the Vietnam-China boarder.

    Onwards we road, following the main highway for a bit, then onto the smaller country roads with intermittent concrete and lots of dirt/mud sections. It had just stopped raining. Eventually we headed more north and along sums very rough and muddy track that took us back in to the dense fog. Thankfully it was alot warmer than the previous day, and we worked up a sweat as we literally bounced and splashed asking the route with our derrieres taking a bit of a beating 🫨

    Finally just after 5pm we found our way in to our evening accommodation, and enjoyed a good shower once the mud was sprayed off with a pressure washer. For the first time we enjoyed a room which was preheated for us! ☺️

    Dinner was at the hotel too. The hot pot spread was more suited for 6 people, not only us three, but we did our best! Their rice wine was the best tasting so we savoured half the bottle 😋

    Ride info
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-e69KE1kugm    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    1
    Day 77–78

    Phương độ (day 9)

    January 30 in Vietnam ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Part way through the night A decided we needed both comforters, so we added one on top of the mattress as the bed was too firm. The roosters were a little too excited at 230am, so in went the ear plugs. Had a nice casual start to the day with coffee and breakfast, and we were on our way just after 9am.

    S stopped in front of Hoang A Tuong Palace on our way out of town. It belonged to a wealthy land owner, and the mansion was completed in 1921. It's now getting renovated as over a century has taken its toll.
    https://laocaitourism.vn/en/detailnews/?t=hoang…

    The fog was still present, but we manged to find a pocket of sun in the next valley over. A's motorcycle started to behave funny, and thought it might be sputtering due to a fuel shortage 🤔. Thankfully a flip of the valve for the reserve tank and we were off again. S wasn't too concerned know the tank was empty, and we continued on. The side route took us through a bunch of road construction as well as more fog. Thankfully the fog gave way, and we enjoyed zipping through the forest shade and cultivated landscapes. We eventually made it back to the highway and found a place for a coffee stop and a gas station.

    We found ourselves on a road through a steep and narrow valley. It was much dryer here, and the slopes were blanketed with lots of pine trees. We passed a couple more reservoirs and hydro generation stations.

    Stopped for a noodle soup bowl lunch in Vinh Quang before ducking off the main road again. The concrete path soon deteriorated in to a narrow, often steep, and mucky track. S decided to run our motorcycles up the worst of the two stretches to limit wear and tear on the clutches. Yes, the locals do ride the same trails 2-up on their scooters, but they also not standard transmissions 🙃 With only 8 days of offroad riding behind us we were tired and welcomed the assistance.

    The "road" we emerged on was a complete mud pit. Heavy work vehicles and construction made the road nearly impassable. Imagine mud soup! Once we crested the pass, the rough and windy road jittered our jowls all the way down to the smooth main road. Ha Giang's main street is very long and wide. It felt like a video game racing past everyone regardless of road rules, because there really aren't any here. Eventually S did his classic last-second look around, hammered on the breaks, signalled and turned off the main road which lead to our evenings accomodations.

    Cay's Homestay is quite nice! The beds are soft, water was already hot, and room warm 🤗 The evening's meal was shared at the table with a French couple and their car tour guide, as well as some of the homestay family. The meal was large and delicious. Afterwards we enjoyed a short walk "around the block."

    Ride info, 151km and almost 7 hours 🫠
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-m0B08Kw6US    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    1
    Day 78–79

    Đồng Văn (day 10)

    January 31 in Vietnam ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Although our sleeping quarters were situated at the back of the homestay, we were happy the imbibed karaoke for the wedding across the road stopped early in the evening. Definitely had one of the best sleeps on the trip. The mattress was the right softness.

    Our hosts treated us to crepes with bright yellow local honey for breakfast. The provided tea was refreshing, but had a sharp flavour, strangely similar to pine sap... Coffee was instant-milk style. After pouring in the hot water to the glass A noticed a bit of liquid under the glass. He realized it must have a crack in it. He quickly walked over to the edge of the patio and then it sheared in half spilling its contents safely into the garden below 😲

    As we left our homestay, we had a much better view of the nearby mountains, which appeared more like a spiny back of a serpent. We followed the main road for a few kilometres before taking a side route through more mud, and very rural mountain villages, eventually reconnecting with the main road. It definitely got quite twisty in a couple places as we ascended the passes, and back down in to the valleys below. Up and down the mountain is the theme here ⛰️

    We were following behind a police truck. Then they waved a while baton out the window. They wanted us to pull over. It was the first of three license checks today. They thankfully accepted the digital international drivers licenses on our phones. By the third stop S told them about the other 2, plus they were really busy with a herd of scooter riders 🛵😂, so they waved us onwards.

    We followed the river at the base of a steep valley, then veered off again on to more tight switch backs, and picturesque passes. There was noticeably more tour group traffic; most on scooters with guides chauffeuring the tourist. S decided on a quick lunch stop in Yen Minh, where we met by another group of off-road tour adventurers, like ourselves. Two Aussies and two Brits.

    As luck worlds have it, the next view point we stopped at provided a great view of the zig-zag track and valley below; apparently it's often socked in with cloud. As we further ascended in to the saddle valley above, we were graced with clear skies and SUN! It was also noticeably warmer too. The darker lush and manicured landscape we'd become accustomed to gave way to dry and rough rocky terrain.

    S ducked of the main road again and we traversed steep jagged canyons. The intermittent narrow concrete roads gave way to kidney jarring rocky pathways. There were much fewer homesteads, and mostly located at the bottom of the valleys. Check out the time-lapse video!

    Another narrow track took us higher in to the mountains, providing a great northern view of the walled Chinese boarder across the valley, and eventually descended into Đồng Văn for our evening accommodations.

    S pointed out a pathway to a lookout as we entered town. As it was only mid-afternoon, we decided to go for a hike once we settled in and cleaned up at the hotel. Turns out the view point is actually the ruins of an old French Fort.
    http://dongvangeopark.com/chuyen-muc-demo/dong-…
    https://north-vietnam.com/dong-van-ancient-town/

    Ride info, 140km
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-0OH4oFjP90    Read more

  • Travels 2.0
    Day 79–80

    Bảo Lạc (day 11)

    February 1 in Vietnam ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    A gorgeous sunny morning welcomed us, and another casual start to the day with a couple coffees at a chic cafe & bar. S found us banana pancakes that he brought over from next door. Definitely a tourist hot spot as we saw many groups of doubles on scooter tours leaving town. Luckily the swarms of guided tourists stay to the main roads, so we had a relaxed ride on the side roads through picturesque valleys and villages. We found ourselves at a fresh pour of concrete for a 10m section of road. Thankfully there was a couple tire widths on the shoulder next to the steep hillside for us to skillfully not make a mistake 😯

    Pulled into Meo Vac for fuel and a quick lunch, then we were off again, sticking to the main road this time. We pulled into a lookout point where our bikes were blocked in by a couple other bike tour groups. We waited for them to leave and quickly zoomed past them. After a few zig-zags on the main road S lead us off-road again. Unfortunately the route he had planned was under construction by the local village so we were forced to turn back. As fortunes would have it, we had to back track a couple more times before we did find a way through to the other side of the valley. We got to use our engine-off coasting technique on a slippy mud section.

    Eventually we found our way to the Sông Nho Quế River where we drove onto a bamboo raft to ferry across. A steep slope awaited us in the other side to we reach what appeared to be the main road getting ready for resurfacing.

    We enjoyed the warm ride, although rough in places, with the cool breeze as we basked in the afternoon sun. We zipped through little villages till we finally reached Bảo Lạc by late afternoon. It was 22C, and the streets were bustling with activity with throngs of people enjoying the endless street market.

    After taking a moment to clean up and cool down at the hotel, we ventured out in the post-sunset twilight. We soon meet up with S, who took us to a riverside eatery, and bartered with a local vender for half of a rotisserie duck! Funny enough, it doesn't seem to be an issue in Vietnam to bring outside food in to an establishment, as long as you buy stuff from them too. We continued on our walk after dinner, eventually meandering back to the hotel for a much needed rest after 5 hours on the bikes in the heat. Quite the contrast from wearing many layers with rain last week! Alas, our hotel beds are pretty hard again 😩: duvet under for cushion and one on top for warmth.

    Today's ride, 110km and 5hrs
    https://calimoto.com/calimotour/t-4RE1VnIwkw    Read more

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