Martin on the Camino 2023

A 73-day adventure by Martin on the Camino 2023 Read more

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Day 52
Saturday, June 3, 2023
☁️ 22 °C
Altitude: 466 m
Spain Sarria 42.777759, -7.41557942°46’40” N 7°24’56” W
Day 52: To Sarria
June 3, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Sarria - pop.12,095; Elev. 423m. Started the walk at 8am and for two hours only saw two people. As going to Samos adds about 10 km to the official route many opt to stay on the normal route so I enjoyed a very quiet and peaceful walk. Sarria to Santiago is the final leg of the journey to Santiago and walking the 118 km gets you the Compostela provided you get two stamps per day in your pilgrim's passport. For this reason it is a very popular starting stage and also several Caminos converge at Sarria.
I am pleasantly surprised by Sarria. Up steep steps reminding me of Montparnasse my albergue is in a pedestrian only part of town near the main church on a long narrow street. I have a nice bunk in the corner of a room with 10 bunks next to the garden. As of writing, nearly 9pm the top bunk is empty as are several others here. Certainly not the crush of people I had been expecting.Read more
Pleasant surprise indeed Hope it continues. [D]
6/3/23Reply
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Martin on the Camino 2023 Traveler
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Day 53
Sunday, June 4, 2023
☁️ 22 °C
Altitude: 650 m
Spain Belante 42.782071, -7.52132342°46’55” N 7°31’17” W
Day 53: To Morgade
June 4, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Morgade pop. 3; elev 654m. Pilgrim shells selling like hot cakes in Sarria. Not only several camino trails converge on Sarria but,
'van a grinos' start here, the unkind term for those who walk each day just with a waterbottle and have a support van along the way. So left around 8 am and was in a long line of people all making their way to Santiago to claim their Compostela by getting two stamps (sellos) a day in their Pilgrim passports. Stopped at Morgade and had a very nice room in Casa Morgade the only accommodation available and their food was excellent.Read more
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Day 54
Monday, June 5, 2023
☁️ 24 °C
Altitude: 367 m
Spain Portomarín 42.805994, -7.61830542°48’22” N 7°37’6” W
DAY 54: To Portomarin
June 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
Left around 8pm and what a surprise - was alone for the first two hours except for two lone walkers, one whom I passed and another passed me. Much of the walk was done in foggy/ misty conditions along woodland trails bordered by moss- covered stone walls built over centuries. After two hours stopped for a break and was passed by another lone walker and just as well as catching up with her later just down the road was faced by a choice of route and took the secondary route as she told me the other route was steeper and somebody had broken their leg on it the previous day. Portomarin is one of the larger towns with a population of 489 and elevation 388m. Interestingly, in the 1950's, under Franco, a hydroelectric dam was constructed which created a reservoir and the entire town moved up the hill and historical buildings were dismantled stone by stone and reassembled in the hill in the town's new location.Read more
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Day 55
Tuesday, June 6, 2023
☁️ 25 °C
Altitude: 711 m
Spain Salgueiros 42.844207, -7.74772342°50’39” N 7°44’52” W
DAY 55: To Ventas De Narón
June 6, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Pop. 12; Elev 704m. Historical note: Christians defeated the Muslims in an important battle here in 820. (Serves them right as they blew up the bridge in Portomarin in 997).
Left this morning around 8am after a surprisingly good sleep in such a large dormitorio. Walk after leaving the town was uphill through a forest of oak, moss and lichen. Made a slight detour after 10 km to see a hilltop site deemed to be one of the most important archeological sites in Northern Spain featuring a hilltop fortification belonging to ancient Celts. The day started very foggy but by 11 am was exceedingly hot. Lots of people and I trudged for most of the day in a long line of chattering, mostly sparsely equipped Spaniards.Read more
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Day 56
Wednesday, June 7, 2023
🌧 19 °C
Altitude: 540 m
Spain Palas de Rey 42.868976, -7.86813942°52’8” N 7°52’5” W
1 2
Day 56: To Palas de Rei
June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 19 °C
Palas de Rei pop.863; elev 550m. Not much going on here...According to the guidebook "The plain buildings of the grey and unremarkable modern-day town belie its ancient history."
The day started misty and it rained most of the morning so set off for the first time in this trip with rain jacket and rain trousers on. Bunk is a capsule but very functional with socket, light, shelf and a small locker. There's a blue curtain as well - €13. Resting most of the afternoon as have developed a cold. Missed the crowds again as started from an intermediate point with pop of only three. Had traditional Galacian squid stew last night but couldn't finish it.Read more
Hope you feel better soon. Any Vit C and/or oranges about? [D]
6/7/23Reply
Hydrangeas!! Beautiful!! [D]
6/7/23Reply
Lower level definitely better- don ‘t like the look of the rungs to top bunk. [D]
6/7/23Reply
TravelerAlso quite high up. Good for me though on lower level l as had more vertical space
6/8/23Reply
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Day 57
Thursday, June 8, 2023
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: 454 m
Spain Melide 42.915151, -8.01322942°54’55” N 8°0’48” W
Day 57: To Melide
June 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Melide (pop. 4393; elev. 457m) according to guidebook "lacks much warmth or charm". It recommends to find some go to the old town where it's medieval past is evident. Unfortunately haven't got there yet - after lunch was only a couple of hundred metres away when it began to rain so returned to albergue. This evening it was also raining so stayed inside . Luckily, I had been to the supermarket earlier so for evening meal had what I had bought - a baguette, bottle of water, goat cheese and a punnet of raspberries . This morning a fifteen km walk on well maintained trails through pastures and cornfields with some ridges and valleys but none too steep or too long and also gravel and dirt paths under trees. Highlight of day was getting stamp ' sellos' for my Pilgrim passport from Pilgrim police. It impressed the albergue owner.Read more
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Day 58
Friday, June 9, 2023
☁️ 19 °C
Altitude: 305 m
Spain Arzúa 42.930785, -8.13143742°55’51” N 8°7’53” W
2
Day 58: To Ribadiso Da Baixo
June 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Ribadiso Da Baixo; pop. 61 (or 9 depending on which guidebook!) It's a very small place but attractive with stone houses and entry is over a 13th century stone bridge to cross the river Iso. Another rainy day needing to put on rain jacket and overtrousers. I took one alternative route which added a kilometre but was green and quiet so very pleasant away from crowds. Passed through plantations of eucalyptus which apparently are controversial.- although good for fuel and other uses are no use for construction or wild life habitats.Read more
Traveler Shame no video of the cyclist 🤣
6/10/23Reply
TravelerYes something dramatic would have livened up this blog.
6/10/23Reply
TravelerI apologize, it was funnier in my mind than the reality, hope he is doing well
6/10/23Reply
TravelerI think just a few grazes to the knee was what I saw. There were other cyclists quick to help him.
6/10/23Reply
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Day 59
Saturday, June 10, 2023
☁️ 19 °C
Altitude: 372 m
Spain A Salceda 42.925016, -8.28359242°55’30” N 8°17’1” W
Day 59: To Salceda
June 10, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Salceda- pop 165. Elev 362m. Left Ribadiso a little later than usual start for the day and after about 3 km arrived in a town of Arzúa (pop. 2728). where I was able to get treatment for my hand which after an unfortunate connection with a tall cactus plant needed a couple of dozen cactus needles removed. The nurse at a local health centre was brilliant and spent over two hours attending to my hand and now have antibiotic cream to be applied 3 times a day for a week. After a quick lunch of tortilla pie with potatoes cheese and tomatoes was underway to walk the remaining 12 km to my albergue/ pension. Typical for this part of the country walked through paths bordered by oak trees where behind newer plantings of eucalyptus trees were seen. Apparently oak trees were special for ancient Celts being a bridge between heaven and earth. Dinner tonight was hake Galacian style which was delicious and first proper evening meal I've had since midweek. For dessert, a local speciality- cheese with quince paste.Read more
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Day 60
Sunday, June 11, 2023
☁️ 23 °C
Altitude: 295 m
Spain Arca 42.9055, -8.36071842°54’20” N 8°21’39” W
Day 60: O Pedrouzo
June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The penultimate night of my journey to Santiago. O Pedrouzo (pop 618) is a busy town full of places to eat and places to stay. For some reason very loud fireworks are booming repeatedly. The weather is good (not raining and not too hot) which made ideal walking conditions this morning.Read more
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Day 62
Tuesday, June 13, 2023
⛅ 20 °C
Altitude: 256 m
Spain Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela Museum 42.88, -8.54542°52’48” N 8°32’42” W
Day 62: To Santiago de Compostela
June 13, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Arrived and have already been to Pilgrim' office and received Compostela with my Latin name- Martinum- and a certificate of distance from Pamplona - 713 km.
TravelerFantastic achievement! Have enjoyed following your journey
6/14/23Reply
TravelerThank you Duncan for your kind words and support.
6/14/23Reply
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Day 63
Wednesday, June 14, 2023
⛅ 24 °C
Altitude: 284 m
Spain Praza da Inmaculada 42.882641, -8.54198542°52’58” N 8°32’31” W
DAY 63: Rest day in Santiago
June 14, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
As I'm coming back to Santiago after a few days the intention was for today to be mainly a rest day. A notable exception being Mass at 12 noon in the Cathedral where I was able to get a good seat as I arrived there early and was very fortunate to see the swinging of the smoking 'botafumeiro' (a reacement for the original which was stolen by Napoleon's troops). Photography was banned during the service but out came everybody's phone or camera when the process of swinging the botafumeiro by a team of re-robed priests began. I did take a video but at 3 minutes is too long to post so will need to do some editing at a later stage.Read more
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Day 64
Thursday, June 15, 2023
☀️ 27 °C
Altitude: 161 m
Spain Logrosa 42.909253, -8.73218842°54’33” N 8°43’56” W
Day 64: To Negreira
June 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
This is first day of new Camino to Finisterre.

Negreira - pop 3,788; elev. 166m. Today's walk just over 21 km and arrived about 4:30. A hot day reaching into the 30's and quite a difficult day due to some steep hills up and down carrying pack in the heat.Read more
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Day 65
Friday, June 16, 2023
☁️ 25 °C
Altitude: 352 m
Spain Bugallido 42.942448, -8.85013542°56’33” N 8°51’0” W
1 1
DAY 65 and Day 66: To Vilaserio
June 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Vilaserio - pop. 66; elev.350m.
A fair amount of uphill walking through forests of eucalyptus and fields of corn. First opportunity for coffee and brunch was after 9km. The albergue is set in a very nice garden with a nice covered terrace and hammocks and chairs in the garden. Staying here for two nights so the second day is a rest day and the tranquility of the garden makes this an ideal location.Read more
Beautiful [D]
6/16/23Reply
Getting the rest you needp [D]
6/16/23Reply
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Day 67
Sunday, June 18, 2023 at 12:17 PM
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 329 m
Spain Eirón 42.956749, -8.9180542°57’24” N 8°55’5” W
Day 66: To Santa Mariña
June 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Santa Mariña' pop.15: elev. 345m
On the road again! A very wet morning at 5 am so went back to sleep and woke up again at 7. The rain had stopped and it was good walking weather - it was cool and everything seemed fresh after the rain. Had breakfast with the author of a book on Celtic spirituality for modern life. In the evening had lively conversation with a large group of about a dozen people of different nationalities - mostly taking to three Canadians sitting near me.Read more
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Day 68
Monday, June 19, 2023
☁️ 18 °C
Altitude: 348 m
Spain Gueima 42.962316, -8.974442°57’44” N 8°58’28” W
Day 67: To Lago
June 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
Lago-pop 50. Elev 342m. It was raining when I left the albergue and had full weather gear on. After walking a kilometre found a café open for breakfast. Some of the walking was along a highway then a slow climb among cornfields and farmland.For most of the time after the cafe walked with a very nice couple, Colin and Emma, living in Edinburgh. We stopped for a coffe at the next albergue which happenned to be the one I had booked for the night so after the food and coffee we had to stay goodbye. Heavy rain after lunch so was glad I wasn't walking any further. Emma had told me that Sylvia Plath wrote a poem after going to Finisterre- however after researching this I found Sylvia had visited not Spain but Finisterre in Brittany.Read more
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Day 69
Tuesday, June 20, 2023
⛅ 19 °C
Altitude: 280 m
Spain Colúns 42.96691, -9.03887142°58’1” N 9°2’20” W
Day 68: To Olveiroa
June 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
As the guidebpok says : "Leave Lago on a mauve-painted road among barns, ripe with the smells of agriculture." I left Lago and then it began to rain. Trudged uphill among small boulders and pine trees before coming to Ponte Olveira which had an albergue open to have a coffee. Back in 1809 a local priest battled the Napoleonic army but the French could not be stopped and decimated the area as far as Cee and Corcubión where I'll be staying in the next couple of days. The rain stopped and I continued onto Olveira (pop.109: elev 276m) mostly walking on the wide shoulder of a highway.Read more
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Day 70
Wednesday, June 21, 2023
☁️ 21 °C
Altitude: 348 m
Spain Hospital 42.983333, -9.07833342°58’60” N 9°4’42” W
Day 69: To Hospital
June 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
Hospital: pop.42, elev.342m. Yes, I'm in Hospital but don't worry it's just the name of the place. Left Olveiroa walking downhill to a gentle river then the start of a succession of fairly steep climbs. At the top in the gorge far below is a dam on the Xallas River. Stopped at village of O Logoso for a coffee then continued downhill before going uphill through a forest of pines. Hospital, my destination, is the last place to get food or water for next 15km which prompted my decision to stop here for the night and walk the 15 km to Cee tomorrow.Read more
TravelerI'm sure I wasn't the only one worried by the title 😆. I'm a bit confused, I thought the Camino ended at Santiago but it seems there is extra walking that can be done which is still part of the Camino?
6/22/23Reply
TravelerYou're right - officially ends at Santiago. Going to Finisterre is seperate from Camino Francés. You can go on to Finisterre or Muxia and get stamps in a Pilgrim passport and get another certificate. It's a mini Camino in its own right
6/22/23Reply
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Day 71
Thursday, June 22, 2023
☀️ 23 °C
Altitude: 10 m
Spain Cee 42.95, -9.19166742°57’0” N 9°11’30” W
Day 70: To Cee
June 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
A 15 km walk today and no services so you are warned to stock up as the albergue/ bar is last place till you get to Cee. Leaving the road the walk was mostly through a beautiful forest with some steady uphill climbing past a couple of chapels before catching a glimpse of the sea and the towns of Cee and Corcubión. Cee has population almost four and a half thousand with elevation 3m.Read more
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Day 72
Friday, June 23, 2023
☀️ 24 °C
Altitude: 3 m
Spain Corcubión 42.937029, -9.18859842°56’13” N 9°11’19” W
Day 71: To Corcubión
June 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
A hug from the lady of the albergue who wanted a picture of me before I left and I was on my way to the nearby town of Corcubión which the guidebook says is the posher next door neighbour. The room exceeded my expectations as it is spacious with an L-shaped sofa, table and balcony with sea view. Corcubión- population 1442; elevation 8m. I got an invitation by email in the afternoon from the hotel owner to attend a barbecue as it was a festival and tradition was to eat sardines. There was going to be a bonfire at midnight and a special galatian kind of hot toddy. I went to bed though at 10 and was sorry to miss the later events.Read more
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Day 73
Saturday, June 24, 2023
⛅ 21 °C
Altitude: 28 m
Spain Finisterra 42.905833, -9.26387542°54’21” N 9°15’50” W
Day 72: To Finisterre
June 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Finisterre- pop. 3034; elevation 13m. The last day of hiking with backpack. A pleasant walk of about 12 km though starting with a steep uphill section. Then through woods of eucalyptus and pine before going downhill to beach and following the path behind the sand dunes to reach the town where I got my certificate. In the evening went to the Cape to watch the sunset, a round trip of about 7km.Read more
Congratulations!!! [D]
6/24/23Reply
Beautiful scenery and impressive certificate. Thoughts/reflections/feelings on completion? [D]
6/24/23Reply
TravelerThanks for the kind comments. Feels a bit strange today with no destination to walk to. I think I've gotten Camino bug want to do the Camino Portuguese next.
6/25/23Reply
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Trip end
June 24, 2023