Friday 27th February, Siem Reap, Cambodi

We have had two fascinating days in this busy local-plus-tourist town: quite a contrast with the places we have spent the last month visiting in Malaysia. Apart from anything, we are far enough north and east to be in a very dry heat, so we are just 'hot', without the sweltering and sweating. The days are longer, although night still falls like a curtain at performance end. The place lives on the tourism, with more whites roaming the streets than in all the places we have been in, and a huge amount of tourist tat (cartoon elephants, buddhas, tshirts, bracelets, you know the sort of thing) piled up in stall or store after stall and store. And constant whiny voices pleading for attention and purchases, with great disappointment - or resignation - if you pass by. Some of the art and craft is also really lovely, the fabrics and matting/ wicker especially. I do wonder how they can afford the stock purchase in the first place, when so many shops are selling so very little on any given day. And I do regret buying a Patagonia rucsac in tidy, expensive England when I see shop after shop selling the same product for a third of the price here. Either over-stock or very very convincing reproductions!

The tuktuks are great fun, and the 'remorques' (motorbike drawn carriage): for a couple of dollars, you can go for a ride up and down a street or two from this to that in the centre,, or a whole city tour for not much more. US currency is as prevalent as the Riel and you can pay or get change in either, or, often, both at the same time. Food, drinks, massages, accommodation, souvenirs are really really cheap. Really cheap. So we enjoy them all!! I have given my Malaysian fabric to a seamstress in the Old Market to sew me up a dress, for $10. I really hope it will be as perfectly 'me' as the Mozambique dress I had made 10 years ago, or whenever that amazing scuba adventure was. A bespoke garment is a wonderful thing.

Tomorrow Luca and are going on a meditation and yoga retreat! The programme and whole environment seems to have been created with a huge amount of loving care and attention to detail. Vegetarian food, a dawn visit to the Ankhor Temple, a music evening and a fire ceremony, to name a few elements we are to expect: although we are familiar with meditation and have done some basic westernised yoga before, it will be unlike anything we have ever experienced, and that is exciting! Part of the deal is a 'digital detox'. This means no phones for 6 days, so expect radio silence until the end of next week.Read more