Ravenna: Basilica di San Vitale

Yesterday, I ended the footprint for the third ticketed-site for UNESCO-listed mosaics with the comment that today’s last two sites had a high bar set by the previous ones.

Boy did they deliver or what?! First, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, which I wrote about in the previous footprint. And then the Basilica of San Vitale … the topic of this footprint … and definitely unmissable regardless of your faith, or lack thereof.

We did not intentionally leave these two sites as the last ones. The order of the visits was determined by the time slots available for our time frame in Ravenna. Well, we certainly did things in the right order IMHO … as each site was even more impressive than the one before.

Alrighty then. Let’s get on with what the basilica — one of the most celebrated Byzantine monuments — had in store for us.

Commissioned during the Gothic Kingdom in the early 6th century — after Bishop Ecclesius visited Constantinople, a generous donation by a banker ensured that it took a mere 20 years to build the grand edifice. Built to honor the rule of Emperor Justinian, the basilica was consecrated to St Vitale by Bishop Maximian (he of the ivory throne fame) in 547. Tradition has it that the site was in fact chosen because the remains of this early Christian martyr were found here.

Located just steps away from the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, we simply walked through the manicured grounds to the rear door of the basilica. I was immediately taken by the mosaics on the floor of the ambulatory. Head down, I walked around, taking some detail shots … noticing the marble cladding that reminded me of Rorschach test inkblots.

Then, I stopped … looked up … and there they were. The mosaics that adorn the sanctuary and apse … different from the many others we’d already seen … beautifully detailed with shades of green serving as the background … in a basilica where the height of the walls made it seem bright and airy. Simply WOW!

OK, so I did notice the painted dome, too. But it took second place to the mosaics. The floor of the octagonal nave was also impressive … marble inlay … large-scale mosaics, if you will … including the labyrinth in front of the sanctuary.

There was so much detail … so much to focus on. I’d look at one thing, only to be distracted by something else. Mui seemed equally entranced. Impossible to take it all in.

I read on the website I linked below that it was the golden mosaics of San Vitale that inspired Gustav Klimt’s ‘golden phase’ following his visits to Ravenna in 1903. Anecdotal or not, I can see how that might have been the case. But for me it was the mosaics against the fresh, green tiles that stood out. Those are the ones I will remember the most.

(For those who would like more detail on the mosaics: https://www.ravennamosaici.it/en/basilica-of-sa….)

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SOAPBOX WARNING … read if you wish: I had read that visitors often try to walk the marble labyrinth and try to make their way out as it symbolizes re-birth. No luck doing so today … every tour guide seemed to plant himself right on top of the labyrinth, droning on endlessly with little regard or concern for independent visitors.

I’ll get off my soapbox about the irritating “I own this place” behavior exhibited by some guides … after I mention that it also drives me nuts to see tour guides allowing their ‘flock’ to take over a street as they move from one place to another.

I have nothing against tours — though thus far we’ve avoided taking too many as I prefer to set my own pace — but a little consideration for independent visitors would be nice.Leggi altro