Ravenna: A Stroll, A Fountain, and Lunch

Since we got to see the “Stone Carpets” earlier than planned, we decided now would be a good time to fit in another mosaic site … this one fairly new … dating back to the early 21st century 🤣 … 2004, to be exact.

Google Maps wanted us to follow city streets to get to our destination near the Ravenna city walls. We did that for part of the way, but then detoured to a path through Giardino Callegari & Ghigi. More of an open field than a garden, the raised path along a wall made it feel like we were walking atop city ramparts. Even better, the path took us right across the street from our destination … a monumental mosaic fountain by one of Ravenna’s famous mosaic artists … Marco Bravura.

Fontana Ardea Purpurea is part of a twin fountain project. The earlier, smaller one is apparently in Lebanon. Both are symbols of rebirth.

The name of the fountain is the scientific designation for the purple heron. As well, it is one of the ancient names of the Arabian Phoenix that rose from the ashes. Both are birds, though, so perhaps they are one and the same. Anyway, the symbology here is associated with the phoenix. Just as the bird is reborn, so do mosaics rise from the ruins of materials that are destroyed and recomposed.

The two panels of the fountain — every inch covered by mosaic tesserae in a rainbow of colors — rise up nearly 40 feet and are reminiscent of the double helix shape of human DNA … or the shape of a rising phoenix (or heron IMHO) with its wings outstretched above it. Sinuous … elegant … graceful. Depending on your angle of viewing, the panels alternately separate and come together in unity. Could that represent the moving wings of a bird? I don’t know, but intentional or not that was the impression I gained.

On the ground between the panels is a water spout … symbolic of the fact that without water there is no life. If the light conditions are just right — they weren’t today — the water reflects the colors of the tesserae. While no play of colors today from the water, I found that as I walked around the fountain, the hues of the panels shifted from golden yellow, to pink and pale magenta, to red and orange … ever-changing as the angle and ‘color’ of the light changed.

From what I read, the iconography used in the design of the panels was inspired by ancient oriental languages, and the tiles form characters from the Phoenician alphabet, symbols of Judaism, words in Sanskrit, Aramaic, Greek and ancient Japanese.

I was fascinated by the fountain and spent some time studying the details, while Mui went to a nearby café for a ‘pick-me-up espresso’ 😊.

From the fountain, we retraced our steps back to the historic center.

Mui had found an off-the-beaten-path place for lunch. But we still had half-an-hour before it opened at 12:30p. So, we walked up the street a bit to a café/bar for an aperitivo. I knew that I wouldn’t eat lunch if I ordered my own drink, so we decided to share.

Mui asked for an Aperol spritz, but the bartender suggested he try a Select spritz instead … made with Select — a Venetian bitter liquor — and Prosecco and soda water … without the olive garnish, thank you very much. A deeper red-orange in color, it was slightly more bittersweet than an Aperol, but quite delicious. It was served with a carafe of peanuts, a bowl of potato chips, and some cheese puffs … which we haven’t had since the early 1980s!

We walked over to Hostaria Pasolini around 12:45p … the first patrons to arrive for lunch. In fact, we had the place to ourselves almost for the duration of our meal. Regardless, our meal was great … our surroundings charming … the service quietly efficient.

Mui ordered the beef steak, which was a bit sinewy, but otherwise tasty. Sautéed Swiss chard was his vegetable side. I ordered pasta — mixing and matching from the list of pasta and sauces printed on the placemats. We both agreed that the pappardelle with the Hostaria’s signature sauce — mushrooms, speck, and peas — was to-die-for delicious.

Dessert was gelato from Mordenti, overlooking Piazza John F. Kennedy

Then, back to the B&B to rest up a bit since the place we wanted to visit in our neighborhood didn’t open until 2:30p today.Leggi altro