Adventuring Down Under

December 2023 - May 2024
Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Read more
  • 296footprints
  • 3countries
  • 142days
  • 2.9kphotos
  • 118videos
  • 48.5kmiles
  • 26.6kmiles
  • 33sea miles
  • Day 1

    Arrived @ IAH

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    An uneventful flight brought us to IAH. Bonus … we were 10 minutes ahead of schedule.

    Our aircraft pulled up to Terminal B and we deplaned via a ramp that was brought to the plane for our convenience.

    The beauty of being familiar with an airport is that you know how to get from one point to another. In our case, a short stroll and a short ride on the skyway was all that we needed to get where we needed to go in Terminal E.

    Now to while away the time until our 8:25p departure to SYD.
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  • Day 1

    Whiling Away the Layover @ IAH

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Since we are flying to Australia on an aircraft that has a Polaris business class cabin, we have access to a decent lounge to while away the hours at IAH before we embark our flight tonight.

    While it is nothing like the amazing THY Business Lounge in İstanbul, the Polaris Lounge at IAH is head and shoulders above regular UA Clubs. Thus, it is no hardship to spend our time here.

    On arrival, we first wandered around the lounge to get the lay of the land. Since the lounge was all but deserted, we felt no compunction about leaving our carry-on bags in a couple of cozy cubbies before heading to the dining room … a very nice alternative to the buffet set up near the bar.

    Must say that the food was quite good. I had read that the Polaris Signature Burger was the thing to order, so that’s what we did … with Mui supplementing it with a kale salad from the small plates section of the menu. A glass of Zin for me … a Merlot for Mui. We wrapped up with dessert … a warm chocolate chip cookie a la mode for Mui; a bananas foster mini cake for me. His was the better choice.

    Tummies sated, we settled into our cubbies to while away the rest of our time at IAH. For me, that means writing and reading … and processing photos. The armchair in the cubby is a bit big for a shortie like me, but I’ve managed to make myself comfy enough. Mui went off for a bit to make use of one of the two daybeds in the quiet area … available in 45-minute increments … just long enough to catch a few 💤.

    We’re settled in for what we expect will be a relaxing and uneventful afternoon … and evening. I’ll be back if something newsworthy pops up.

    In the meantime, I am going to go take a stroll down the concourse of Terminal E. From what I glimpsed on our way to the lounge earlier today, the renovations that were ongoing the last time we were here are completed … and it looks much nicer than it used to be.

    Ciao for now.
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  • Day 1

    Aboard UA 101 to SYD

    December 12, 2023 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Boarding began promptly at 7:35p and the crew announced “ Boarding Complete” at 8:10p.

    If the Polaris cabin is anything to go by, this is going to be a light flight.

  • Day 3

    Less Than 2 Hours to Go to SYD

    December 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Well the flight wasn’t nearly as bad as I dreaded. No doubt due to the comfort of being in a Polaris business class cabin.

    Here’s a quick sum up.

    On time departure from Houston at 8:25a on the 12th … flight duration estimated as 17 hours by the cockpit crew.

    Drinks and warm nuts as soon as we were leveled off at altitude.

    Dinner service soon after … really quite delicious.

    A couple of movies to entertain ourselves.

    Wi-fi … pretty good speed for social media, email, and internet browsing … free thanks to UA’s partnership with T-Mobile, our carrier.

    Time to catch some zzz’s … made all the more comfortable due to the Polaris PJs we were given upon request.

    Lost 13 December somewhere over the Pacific while we were sleeping … thanks to the vagaries of the International Date Line.

    Up and at ‘em after about 5 hours of zzz’s … with about 5.5 hours to go to reach SYD.

    Another movie … some writing … some photo processing.

    Now, with less than two hours to go, getting ready for the breakfast service.

    More when we get to Australia.
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  • Day 3

    We Have Arrived in Sydney

    December 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Welcome to Sydney, Australia!

    UA 101 landed at SYD 10 minutes ahead of schedule.

    Since we qualified for using the Smart Gates to enter the country, after deplaning we quickly went through the two-step DIY process that included scanning our passports, receiving a pass, and going through a biometric-verification gate.

    The only time we saw Border Forces Agents was when they collected our entry passes and customs forms (completed on the plane) at the “nothing to declare” gate after we collected our bags.

    Then it was just a matter of ordering an Uber to take us to the AirBNB apartment in The Rocks … our home away from home for a week.

    We’ll refresh ourselves and then head out to do some grocery shopping.

    The plan is to stay active so that we can start adjusting to the 18-hour time difference. What we will actually do is still TBD.
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  • Day 3

    Sydney: Errands & More

    December 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 99 °F

    Just because the plan for today was to run a bunch of errands doesn’t mean that we didn’t stop to enjoy the sights around the city as we went from one shop to another.

    What was on our list?

    Pick-me-up beverages at the Bar Cycle in Marsh Bay … an iced Americano for Mui; tea for me … and a spinach and feta roll to share.

    Groceries, of course … we plan to self-cater at least some of our meals.

    A couple of eSIMs from Telstra so that we have Australian phone numbers and data for ease of communication … T-Mobile’s not going to cut it in a number of places we plan to visit over the next 4.5 months.

    A lightning to USB-A pigtail from Apple so Mui can download his GoPro videos to an external drive through his iPad … we both left our laptops at home in Colorado in an effort to simplify our electronics on this trip. Fingers crossed it works out!

    A couple of honest-to-goodness Australian Outback hats … specifically the Akubra brand, which Mui had his heart set on.

    Our plans to have dinner out after our errands didn’t quite work out. Timing issues. But also, it got hot very quickly … 97F by the time we wrapped up our errands around 3:30p. I was drained … stick-a-fork-in-me done. A 14,000-step day following a 17-hour flight might have had something to do with our change of plans, too.

    We’ll pick up our sightseeing tomorrow … the weather being the driver behind what we decide to do. One thing is for sure … we’re looking forward to more chats with friendly Aussies.
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  • Day 4

    Sydney: Along Lavender Bay

    December 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    After a goodnight’s rest, we were up early. Not because of jet lag, mind you. But simply because we are early birds. In fact, considering the time change we put our bodies through to get to Sydney, we’re doing pretty darn good in the jet lag department.

    The plan was to take it easy today. To that end, we took the advice of a friend who used to live in Sydney and hopped on a ferry to cross Sydney Harbor to Milsons Point. On the agenda was a stroll along Lavender Bay and a visit to … well, that part will be in the next footprint.

    The ride across from Circular Quay was a short one … five minutes , if that. Turns out that the Milsons Point Wharf is where the Luna Park is located. There sure were some crazy rides that had riders screaming their heads off … only to turn around and go back for seconds! No thanks … not our cup of tea.

    Lavender Bay is a suburb on the lower North Shore of Sydney. Known as Gooweebahree in the Dharug language of the Aboriginal people, Lavender Bay was named after the bosun of the Phoenix, a prison hulk that was moored in these waters for many years.

    We followed the shoreline path, enjoying the lovely skyline views that included the Opera House in the distance … the Coathanger, as the Sydney Harbor Bridge is fondly called, dominating the foreground views. We stopped frequently for photo ops during our relatively solitary stroll as there weren’t many people out and about in the mid-morning hours.
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  • Day 4

    Sydney: A Secret Garden & Lunch

    December 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    At the end of our stroll along Lavender Bay, we hung a right and went under the train rails to find ourselves in what our friend had described as a “gem” … Wendy’s Secret Garden.

    This is no manicured garden. Rather, it has an almost jungle-like vibe … very rustic … with paths meandering this way and that through various levels. Garden statues and rusty artifacts tucked into nooks and crannies. Very peaceful … a perfect place to get away from the hubbub of big city living for a few hours … especially on a three-ship-day in Sydney.

    The Wendy mentioned here is Wendy Whiteley, wife of renowned painter, Brett Whitely. Following Brett’s death in 1992, grief-stricken, she threw herself into clearing piles of overgrowth on the land at the foot of their house. From this effort today’s garden was born … still maintained by gardeners whom she employs.

    Contrary to its name, the garden is not a secret. In fact, the website describes it as “ … one of the worst kept secrets in Sydney … .” That might well be the case. Today, however, we pretty much had it to ourselves, encountering only a few people … and those at a distance.

    Eventually we made our way to the top of the garden and walked across the road to the Kirribilli Club. Since we are not members, Mui had to register, but as our friend had told us, we did not have to pay for a membership.

    Our destination at the club was the restaurant … Lavender by the Bay. We arrived at 11:30a and snagged one of the few remaining tables on the terrace. The kitchen, we were told, would open at noon. No worries. With the spectacular view as eye candy, we ordered a couple glasses of Pinot Noir from the Adelaide Hills and whiled away the time easily enough.

    For lunch, we ordered a cheesy mushroom arancini starter that was perfectly fried to a golden hue … and followed that with the seafood platter … which consisted of cold and hot selections. To wrap up … a delicious carrot cake.

    After lunch, we followed a different path that took us through Clark Park and down from there to the waterfront. A delightful stroll — it wasn’t as hot today as it was yesterday — took us back to the wharf for the ferry to Circular Quay.

    We had noted that there was a concert in a park in The Rocks tonight. So, we headed home for a couple of hours to rest up. Unfortunately, the concert turned out not to cater to our taste in music, so when we did venture out again, we did not stay long. Oh well … we still had a lovely day.
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  • Day 5

    Sydney: Taronga Zoo

    December 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Of course we prefer to see animals in the wild. Who doesn’t?

    But that is not always possible. We believe that zoos — well run and credentialed ones — have an important role to play in the animal world … and we don’t mind supporting those that participate in worthwhile conservation programs by visiting them on occasion.

    The website indicates that Taronga “… cares for over 5,000 animals from over 350 species, many of which are threatened.” It is committed to not just the conservation of wildlife in Australia, but around the world as well. As we wandered around, I noted several references in information panels to the zoo’s active involvement in breed and release programs. So, they do good work.

    On that note, here’s the story of today’s visit to Taronga Zoo, which officially opened in 1916. Taronga is an Aboriginal word that means "beautiful view". An exceptionally appropriate moniker as we enjoyed delightful views of the city from various points around the grounds as we visited the many different animal habitats.

    Located in the suburb of Mosman, a 12-minute ferry ride took us from Circular Quay to the zoo. The ferry wharf for Taronga is near the lower entrance. It’s possible to walk up through the grounds from there. But we did something better. Bus 238 — which transfers ferry passengers from the wharf to Balmoral — makes its first stop at the upper (main) zoo entrance. The bus was waiting at the wharf stop, so, we hopped on. Well worth the AUD $1/person fare … which, in USD, comes out to about $0.67/person.

    (By the way, we are loving the tap on/tap off system in place for public transportation … ApplePay/GooglePay work beautifully, so we have not had to invest in Opal Cards.)

    Once the zoo opened at 9:30a, we followed the meandering paths back down through the grounds … seeking shade wherever we could find it. What we thought would be a 2-hour visit lasted twice as long. Fun times in the company of not-so-wildlife. Despite the brutal sun — the high today was 90F — the animals were out and active … our thanks to all the critters for cooperating with our plans today.

    Returning to Sydney on the ferry, we searched out a place for a late lunch. We ended up at the Munich Pub in The Rocks where good German food and local beer served as a wrap up for our day.
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  • Day 6

    Sydney: Coathanger Summit Climb

    December 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Reader beware! An exceptional experience deserves an exceptionally long footprint.

    Today started as an easy day at home. Why? Because we wanted to be rested and fresh for tonight’s grand adventure.

    Not that we were idle, mind you. We worked on a loose plan for the remainder of our days in Sydney and did some chores. We also went out for a nice lunch at the neighborhood pub around the corner from us … The Hero of Waterloo! Great fish and chips … so-so burger … delicious crème brûlée.

    With a span of 1,640 feet, the Sydney Harbour Bridge — an iconic landmark, which the locals fondly call the Coathanger — is one of the world’s longest steel-arch bridges. You can drive across it. You can take a train across it. You can walk across it. And if you are adventurous enough, you can climb it … except on December 30 and December 31, when the climb takes a back seat to preparations for the world-famous New Year’s Eve fireworks display.

    When we left the USA, we were still unsure if we wanted to do the Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb. We also wanted to make sure that if we decided to go ahead, we would have a nice day for it as the experience operates rain or shine. In the rain would be no fun. So, we opted not to make any reservations. That turned out to be OK as we found plenty of availability when we checked the website a few days ago … thanks to being flexible with our dates. We even managed to book a night climb … our first choice of all the available options.

    The Bridge Climb is no Mickey Mouse operation … even if we did have Disney Wonder docked in Circular Quay while we were climbing the bridge!

    First, there are all kinds of rules about what you can take with you on the climb … which is little more than the clothes on your back. Loose items are all dis-allowed … no bracelets or dangly jewelry, no barrettes or hairpins, no bags, no open-toe or unlaced shoes, no cameras or phones, no nothing. Anything that is allowed — such as eyeglasses — must be secured to your person by lanyards with special clips. And any essential meds — such as asthma inhalers — must be carried by the climb guide.

    Next, there are a bunch of safety measures to get through … watching a safety video; doing a breathalyzer test; donning a “blend-into-the-steel-structure-of-the-bridge” climb suit; buckling into a safety harness; tethering eyeglasses to our suits with lanyards and special clips; getting issued headlights and headsets … just to name the ones I remember off hand. The whole process took about 30 minutes, with checks and double checks by staff before we were given the thumbs up.

    All prepped, it was time to set out on the climb. But first, we received instruction on how to negotiate the four ladders that would take us from below the road deck to the outer arch of the bridge. The instruction included practicing going up and down ladders similar to the ones we’d be negotiating during the climb.

    Finally, we stepped into the Climb Base below the Bradfield Highway — the road carried across Sydney Harbour by the bridge. After latching onto the safety guide wire, we set off on a walk that took us across narrow catwalks and steps and cantilevers. The walk was fairly fast-paced, but not so much so that you were left breathless. There was, however, little time to dally. Paying attention to where we were stepping so as not to run afoul of low overhead beams and other steel infrastructure, meant that there wasn’t much time to take in the views. No worries, that would come later.

    Our initial destination was the Southeast Pylon. Once we arrived there, it was time to go up the aforementioned four ladders — vehicle traffic and trains whizzing by overhead as we did so. The ladders took us up to the start of the outer arch. From there to the summit it was all steps … 1,332 in all — no, I didn’t count them for myself.

    As we made our way up to the tippy top of the bridge, we had several opportunities to stop and take in the delightful skyline … the Sydney Opera House was the main attraction … though Disney Wonder did garner quite a bit of attention, too. We even had some entertainment along the way … fireworks in the distance and music from the party boats flitting here and there in the harbor.

    Before we set out, our climb guide had instructed us to line up in a specific way … all group members together … from shortest to tallest. This was essential for the photo-ops during the climb as we could not un-tether to juggle around each other. There were three photo-ops … one with the Sydney Opera House; one at the tippy-top where the two 65-foot tall flag poles fly the Aboriginal and the Australian flags; and another one with the skyline as a background. A special contraption ensured the camera was kept steady for the shots taken with flashlight.

    Crossing the catwalk at the summit, we made our way to the southwest of the bridge. After enjoying the views from that vantage point and completing the skyline photo op, we began the descent back down to the Climb Base.

    When we arrived, we gave ourselves a round of applause before going into the ready room to divest ourselves of all the accoutrements we’d been loaded up with. Then, receiving our “Bridge Climb Sydney” hats — nothing like being walking billboards for the experience — we went off to change out of our climb suits.

    Of course, with no cameras of our own, it was a foregone conclusion that we’d be buying the “official photos” from our climb. Having pre-purchased the package with our climb tickets, picking up a voucher to download the photos at our leisure was all we had to do.

    Thus, not only have we joined the millions of everyday guys and gals who have accomplished the climb over the past 25 years, but we are also now in the company of celebrities like Oprah Winfrey, Will Smith, Matt Damon, Nicole Kidman, Robert De Niro, Pierce Brosnan, Cate Blanchett, Prince Harry, and many others who have conquered the Coathanger.

    Oh by the way … if you are amongst those who would only venture onto the bridge due to the additional safety measure provided to the structure by the four pylons added after the bridge was constructed. I hate to burst your bubble, but those pylons are just for show and do nothing for the bridge. In fact, they are not even secured to the bridge structure!
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