Adventuring Down Under

Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Read more

Follow Insights Calendar Photos Share

Adventuring Down Under
Launceston: Cataract Gorge
February 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 75 °F
After lunch at a place recommended by one of the staffers at the QVMAG, we headed off to the Cataract Gorge Reserve.

The gorge — which is 65-million-years-old — can best be described as “urban wilderness.” An oasis in the midst of the city. One can walk to it from the CBD … a zig zag trail that I understand is fairly steep. We drove there instead … steep roads, too.

The dolerite features of the Cataract Gorge — some 200-million-years-old — date back to the Jurassic Period … to a time when dinosaurs roamed the earth. Signage in the reserve explained that Tasmanian Aboriginals tell of ancestors who were transformed into stone monoliths. They, in fact, consider the boulders along the river to be sentinels who care for the area.

I was hoping to see something like what was portrayed in the paintings I’d seen at the art gallery. Nope, nothing like it. The scenery was peaceful and beautiful, but I must admit that the swimming pool on the lawn was an eyesore … at least it was for me. I didn’t much care for the chairlift that stretches across the basin either. Just seemed a bit too commercial to me. But others seem to enjoy both of these features, so who am I to quibble.

Having spent most of the day slow-wandering at the QVMAG, our feet refused to consider a long hike into the gorge. Instead, we followed a short trail to the Alexandra Suspension Bridge to cross the gorge and do the basin walk that encircles the water.

Our visit took to the Gorge took an hour in all. Then, back to the hotel to rest up. Tomorrow we’re on the road again.Read more
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
4
OTR: Deloraine
February 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
Today we went from summerish-temps to winterish-temps!

We were up and at ‘em early this morning. Not because we had 105+ miles to drive. Rather because we wanted to make sure we arrived at Cradle Mountain National Park [CMNP] early enough to start enjoying our mountain getaway.

Breakfast was at Banjo ... at the nearby mall. We’ve seen this pastry chain in other cities, but have not gone in … opting for mom & pop shops instead. Now we know better. Honestly, this was probably one of the best breakfasts we’ve had in Australia. Fresh, warm-from-the-oven spinach and ricotta rolls … a piping hot ham/egg/tomato croissant sandwich … a fluffy raspberry muffin. All delicious.

By 8:30a, we were on the road … heading to Deloraine. It was a photo of a scenic spot overlooking a small cataract that put this small town on today’s itinerary. That it was on the way to CMNP didn’t hurt. The town is bisected by the Meander River, and as it turns out, there was a nice river walk — the Kooparoona Niara Cultural Trail — with a couple of critters statues to enjoy … and a Yarning/Healing Circle similar to the ones Aboriginals have used for ages to tell stories amongst themselves.

After our walk, we found a picnic table overlooking the river … in the sun and out of the wind that was picking up. We wanted to take advantage of the strong 5G Telstra cell signal to take care of a few trip logistics. That done, we were back on the road again by 11:00a.Read more
TravelerSounds great!
2/3/24Reply
Traveler Great long exposure on the water. ND filter?
2/3/24Reply
Two to TravelNope … I left all that behind … just the Live Photo feature on the iPhone and then selecting the built in Long Exposure.
2/3/24Reply
TravelerThe Live Photo works quite well. But, if you are interested in longer exposure shots in raw, a really cool app to use with your phone is Even Longer.
2/4/24Reply
Two to TravelThanks … I’ll check it out.
2/4/24Reply
8 likes
Adventuring Down Under
OTR: Mural Town … Sheffield
February 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
From Deloraine, we headed to the town of Sheffield. That it was on our way to CMNP was a good thing. But we would have detoured for this one if necessary. You see, Sheffield is “The Town of Murals.” With over 100 pieces of artwork on display, it is part of Tasmania’s “Outdoor Art Gallery.”

The backstory to the murals goes back to 1986 when a group of locals wanted to find a way to save their town from economic hardship. A couple of the members had seen a documentary about a town in Canada — Chemainus — that had turned things around and made their town a tourist destination by painting murals on the walls of buildings. With a ready-made audience of Cradle Mountain bus tours stopping in Sheffield to use the public toilets, the town leaders decided to follow in the footsteps of Chemainus. And the rest, as they say, is history.

We started out at the Mural Park. With some 30+ colorful works in one place, I was in mural heaven. I liked that each one had a cover over it to protect it from the elements. A quick in/out at the Art Gallery near the park. And then Mui pulled out the mural walking map and guided me around town to find the murals scattered all around the streets. I didn’t photograph them all … but came darn close to it.

At about the halfway point, we stopped in at a café recommended by a local to get some meat pies for lunch. The flavor we wanted wasn’t out of the oven yet. The counter clerk checked and said they had 7 minutes to go … and promised to save us a couple when we said we’d go search for some more murals while we waited. Good thing she did. We were barely seated when a tour group packed the place.

What a delightful time we had in Sheffield. Not even the wind that was a-blowin’ made a dent in our pleasure in seeing all the colorful art around town.Read more
TravelerMy idea of heaven - lots of art outside the walls of a museum😀😀
2/4/24Reply
Two to TravelTotally with you on that.
2/4/24Reply
8 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Cradle Mountain National Park (CMNP)
February 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F
The drive from Sheffield to CMNP was pretty much that … a drive … flat and straight roads part of the way … winding and curvy in other parts. Nothing exciting.

Shortly before 4:00p, we pulled into the Cradle Mountain Lodge … our base of operations for three nights. Initially, we were assigned to Pencil Pine Cabin #12. It had the lake view we had requested. But it was missing the veranda. No worries, Working with the manager, we got ourselves switched to PPC #24. Perfect … and we were immediately rewarded with a wombat grazing right out front.

In fact, we’ve had plenty of wildlife sightings already … platypus in the lake (pond really; 3 sightings); native hens; a couple more wombats; a Bennett’s wallaby; a couple of pademelons; and right at our front door, a brush-tailed possum. Thrilling … even if I didn’t manage to get photos of all of them.

After settling into our cabin, we returned to the main building to have dinner at the Tavern … which does not require reservations. Our tummies sated, we hopped in the car to check out the national park itself. Once the mandatory shuttle stops operating, cars are allowed inside. In February, that is at 6:30p.

The road into the park is about 7.5 miles long and dead-ends at Dove Lake. The sun wasn’t due to set until about 8:00p, but the light disappears fast due to the high mountains. Even if that weren’t the case, today we would not have been able to stay long. It was polar-region-cold with a wind strong enough to push me around. Back in the car, Mui said it was 46F … but I bet the feels like with the windchill was below 32F. The good news is that the wind is expected to die down. Fingers crossed.

Oh, by the way. Despite reports that there is no cell signal to be had hereabouts, we have a strong 4G with our Telstra eSIM … no need to go to main building to connect via WiFi.Read more
8 likes
Adventuring Down Under
CMNP: Around the Lodge
February 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
It was a wombat kind of day @ Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge! Saw three of them around the grounds today! Two of them cooperated for close-ups!

We’re supposed to be taking it easy here, so we reserved breakfast — included in the room rate — for 8:00a. A lazy but good start to what turned out to be a comfortably warm, mostly-wind-free, blue-sky day at CMNP. Even the driver of the shuttle we took into the park later remarked on what an unusual day this was. Hey, after the cold and windy welcome we got yesterday, we deserve it!

In keeping with our “take it easy plan” we were going to stay close to the lodge today. We jiggled things a bit, but mostly abided by that plan. That’s not to say we sat around and did nothing. No, there are several walking trails — more than a stroll, but not in the hiking category — that can be accessed from the lodge. We picked the one with a “Tasmania’s 60 Great Short Walks” designation sign at the trailhead.

The “Enchanted Walk” is basically an easy boardwalk trail … a circuit of about .7 mile. It follows the Pencil Pine Creek through a mossy forest. Wildlife abounds along the trail we were told. We saw only a kookaburra and a couple of skinks. And lots of “poo evidence” of other critters. Having started around 9:30a, we didn’t expect to see much anyway.

We also stopped in to check out the Interpretive Center, and I did a short walk to the Pencil Pine Falls to wrap up our walks in the immediate area.

Somewhere in between all this, was the jiggle that took us to Dove Lake. But I’ll leave that for the next footprint.Read more
7 likes
Adventuring Down Under
CMNP: Picture Postcard Perfect
February 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F
CMNP — officially Cradle Mountain-Lake Clair National Park — is Tasmania’s iconic park. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site … in the midst of 1.4 million hectares of wilderness. When thinking about that number, keep in mind that all of Tasmania is approximately 6.81 million hectares, of which nearly 49% is forested. Plans are ongoing to conserve and protect even more land as monies become available and opportunities present themselves.

The landscape at CMNP is alpine in nature … described in the brochure as “rugged peaks, windswept moors, glacial lakes and tarns, and deep gorges clothed in tall, ancient forests.”

Private vehicles are only allowed to enter CMNP before the shuttle buses start operating at 8:00a … and again after they stop at 6:00p. The problem in the morning is that if too many cars enter, the sensor shuts down the gate and a light starts flashing. One has to then wait … and wait … and wait for a vehicle to exit and the light to go steady before being granted access. And then 8:00a comes around … and well, you’re out of luck.

Our time at CMNP is supposed to be for “taking it easy.” Meaning, we aren’t rushing off to do this, that, and everything. No early morning wake up just to drive into the park either. Instead, we picked up shuttle tickets to use at our leisure.

When we jiggled our plans after our Enchanted Walk, we initially thought to move the hike planned for tomorrow to today. “Nah,” we thought to ourselves once we got to Dove Lake. Just a short hike today would suffice … more of a stroll down to the Dove Lake Boat Shed for the postcard shots the ranger at the Visitor Center had recommended.

What a difference I. The weather conditions today from when we popped over to Dove Lake yesterday after dinner. Where the surface of the lake was ruffled with white caps then, it was flat calm with only the occasional ripple today. Where the freezing temps had us shivering then, we were debating taking off our outer layers today. Where iconic Cradle Mountain was veiled by mist and starting to wear its cloud cloak then, it was “out” and the air was crystal clear today. Indeed, picture postcard perfect!

After enjoying our brief sojourn into the park, we returned to the lodge for lunch at the Tavern and a relaxing afternoon in the cabin. And a few chores … namely, re-balancing the weight in our checked bags for our flight out to the mainland on the 6th.

And then, off to visit with some carnivores!Read more
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
CMNP: Devils @ Cradle
February 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
When we signed up for the “Tasmanian Devil Night Feeding” through the lodge, we anticipated just that. The devils would be fed after nightfall.

Well, that might be the case in the winter time when it gets dark early. They do add an 8:30p feeding in the summer, but — in hindsight — I’m glad we were put in the 5:30p group as this was a better time for photos. As well, we could freely roam the grounds prior to the feeding and check out the various pens to see not just the iconic Tasmanian devils, but also two separate species of quolls — Eastern and spotted-tail — that are part of the species conservation work done by Devils @ Cradle.

In the footprint for the Unzoo in Port Arthur, I mentioned that a contagious cancer — Devil Facial Tumor Disease — has decimated the wild devil population by some 80% since its appearance in 1996. There is hope for eradicating the tumor … as a result of the vaccine research done for COVID-19. But that is still a work in progress. In the meantime, other solutions have been implemented to protect the now-endangered Tasmanian Devil.

One such solution is the Insurance Population Breeding Program … of which Devils @ Cradle is a part. The program works to protect species from extinction. Signage explained that “… A meta-population has been established throughout Australia, which strategically combines multiple facilities or sites operating under various management levels. Devils can be moved between these bio-secure sites to maintain the genetic diversity of the population.”

A similar program applies to the quolls as well. There are only 10,000 or so of them in the wild in Tasmania … and only because there are no foxes here. Individuals from this breeding program have been shipped to the mainland to start repopulating quolls in the wild there.

The pens here — open air for the devils, which cannot jump out … fenced-in for the quolls, which can easily jump out — are described as free range enclosures. Thus, the animals are considered to be under semi-wild managed conditions. The plan is to release individuals from these protected sanctuaries into off-shore Tasmanian Islands … into wild managed conditions. In fact, 15 devils were released on Maria Island in 2012 and their population is flourishing in that disease-free environment.

The feeding experience here was different from the one at the Unzoo in that we saw multiple feedings … first the females in one enclosure; and then a “paired couple” in another enclosure. At first, they peacefully shared the wallaby carcass that the keeper staked out for them. Once the meat dwindled down, however, the animals became quite vocal over who would be eating the remaining bits.

The meat, by the way, is specifically purchased for the critters from a hunter. They are not allowed to use any of the many road kills we’ve seen all over Tasmania.

The quolls got their treats as well. It was interesting to see these small, carnivorous marsupials go at the meat with such relish.

The visit to Devils @ Cradle was interesting and informative … I’m glad we went … all the more so because the admission goes towards the care of the animals in the program.Read more
Sonia GelmanSo interesting!
2/5/24Reply
Two to TravelReally fascinating animals and the work they are doing in sanctuaries to make sure they don’t go extinct like the Tasmanian tiger and emu is amazing.
2/5/24Reply
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
CMNP: Hiking in the Park
February 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
Disappointment. That was my first reaction to the overcast and drizzle we woke up to this morning. Where had yesterday’s sunshine and blue skies gone?

Now that we’ve completed our hike, however, I can categorically say that we’re grateful that there was cloud cover today. It would have been downright uncomfortable hiking had the sun been out.

Taking the shuttle into CNMP around 8:30a, we hopped off at the Ronny Creek shuttle stop to begin our hike. There was a fancy sign for the Overland Track, our starting point. But no. We did not do that hike. Not only does it take 5-6 days to complete it end to end, one has to pack a tent and other accoutrements for wilderness hiking, and ascend both Marion’s Lookout and Cradle Mountain … and who knows what else.

Rather, the plan was to hike up to Crater Lake, which is on the Overland … and then return to the Dove Lake parking lot to pick up an outbound shuttle. Since we were cobbling together our own route, we weren’t exactly sure of the distance we’d be hiking. However we figured we’d be out and about for at least three hours. Had we not dallied as much as we did along the way, I imagine that estimate would have been accurate.. As it is, we hiked for over four hours.

The trail started out flat on a boardwalk. Then wooden steps … some wide; some high. Then rock steps … quite unevenly spaced. Then fairly flat gravel. Then dirt strewn with roots ready to trip up the unwary. The trail was rated easy … Australian easy, that is. Technically, it wasn’t a difficult hike, you just had to pay attention to where you were stepping.

At the top, the trail junctions with others, including Marion’s Lookout. One look at that straight-up trail confirmed our decision to nix it. Instead, we walked just a bit further on from the junction to a couple of hidden overlooks mentioned to us by the ranger at the Visitor Center … one for Crater Lake and the other for Dove and Lilla Lakes.

Photo ops completed, we began the return trek via the Wombat Pool and Lilla Lake trails. Yesterday, we had debated doing the hike we did today … but in reverse … starting from Dove Lake to Crater Lake via the Wombat Pool … ending up at the Ronny Creek shuttle stop. Once we began the descent from the Crater Lake trail today, we were especially grateful that we had not done so! There were far more steep sections here … especially on the way to Wombat Pool … and a number of them were a bit more like rock scrambles over what I like to refer to as “sliced bread rocks.”

We had a great hike … glad for the natural shade provided by the clouds and the occasional gusts of breeze. There were enough glimpses of the view in the heavily-forested parts to keep us entertained. And that’s an especially good thing.Read more
Sonia GelmanAre there any people there?
2/5/24Reply
Two to TravelYeah, actually quite a lot. But because you have to take the shuttle in, and they run every 10-15 minutes, everyone gets pretty spaced out. It was great.
2/5/24Reply
7 likes
Adventuring Down Under
CMNP: Wrapping Up Our Visit
February 4, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F
We rewarded ourselves for today’s hike … wine and snacks on the deck of our cabin … protected from the occasional sprinkle of rain … and entertained by our wildlife friends.
Sonia GelmanWhat a chubby little guy!
2/5/24Reply
Two to TravelYes, and this one is the only one we saw that wasn’t “face-in-the-grass” eating constantly.
2/5/24Reply
8 likes
Adventuring Down Under
OTR: CMNP to Burnie
February 5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
We left CMNP around 8:30a this morning.

Destination: Burnie … the “City by the Sea” … 64 miles away on the northwestern coast of Tasmania … where we stopped earlier in our trip when we were still onboard Regatta.

We had plans for sightseeing along the way … specifically at the Emu Valley Rhododendron Garden. Alas, it is off season for rhodies and there is nothing else to really see there. So, we pushed on.

A phone call to the Ikon Hotel in Burnie resulted in an early check-in agreement … but we had to kill some time until 12:30p first. So, we headed to the Secret Buddha, where we had a very nice coffee break when we were in Burnie off the ship. Lunch this time … delicious al fresco meal.

We are now not only checked in to our room — in an iconic landmark building — but all of our errands are completed. I even managed to finish up my back-logged Cradle Mountain footprints and catch up on some bookkeeping.

Tomorrow morning, we fly to Melbourne.Read more
TravelerIt’s killing me that we’re missing each other by just a few days😢
2/5/24Reply
Two to TravelSo close yet so far apart!
2/5/24Reply
TravelerThe photos and narrative of your time in Tasmania have been a wonderful enticement for us to include this destination on our wish list. Thank you!
2/5/24Reply
Two to TravelIt is definitely worth spending some time here.
2/5/24Reply
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
839.59 Miles Later …
February 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
Our Tasmania road trip has concluded at the Avis office where we just dropped off our rental car.

Then a 2-minute walk across the road to the Burnie Airport … located in Wynyard … 11 miles from Burnie.

This is a small airport … no jetways, no nothing. Didn’t see a security checkpoint either. A door marked “Departures” leads to the tarmac … from where we will board our flight to Melbourne. We have a while until that happens, however. If the “will open at 4:00p” sign on the door of the café/gift shop is anything to go by, our flight might be the only one going out today … once the aircraft arrives, that is.

At the moment, I am the only soul at the airport. Mui walked over to the hardware store at the other end of the parking lot to entertain himself. There’s no sign of any airport or airline staff either. All alone I am.

This is a good time for me to catch up on some logistics work. The more I get done here … the more time we will have for sightseeing in Melbourne!Read more
11 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Our Air Chariot to MLB Awaits
February 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F
The Dash 8-300 that will be flying us to Melbourne from Burnie awaits us.

Boarding soon.
It looks like you have already explored Australia! You are truly the world adventurers!
2/6/24Reply
Two to TravelSo much more to come 😉
2/6/24Reply
11 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Made it to Melbourne, VIC!
February 6, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 64 °F
An uneventful flight brought us from Burnie in Tasmania to Melbourne in Victoria. In fact, we were on the ground 10 minutes ahead of schedule. Early is always good.

Since there are no security checks at the Burnie Airport — they didn’t even check IDs — we were bussed from where we disembarked on to the tarmac at MLB to baggage claim at Terminal 1. Luggage was already on the carousel. Easy peasy.

We found out today that Uber works a little differently here … at least at the Melbourne airport. You order a car through the app; get a PIN; go to the designated area where a bunch of Ubers are queued up and waiting; share the PIN with the driver; and you are on your way.

We’ve checked into our AirBNB in the CBD. Nothing special … but nice view of the skyline. We’ve done a bit of grocery shopping for breakfast fixings at the Metro around the corner from the building. A load of laundry is going already … maybe we’ll get it all done tonight after all.

Although we plan to do some sightseeing while in the city — there’s a lot to see and do — Melbourne is also where we will be prepping for our road trip by RV — oh, OK … make that caravan, since we are in Australia. Somehow we’ll make it work … a little pleasure … a little work.Read more
Sonia GelmanHow much is Uber from airport to CBD? We are staying one night in hotel in Melbourne
2/6/24Reply
Two to TravelFrom the airport??? Are you flying in from somewhere? Anyway … Uber XL today was somewhere around AUD $50-55.
2/6/24Reply
Sonia GelmanThank you. We are staying in Adelaide for one night, then flying to Melbourne and one night in Melbourne
2/6/24Reply
Two to Travel👍🏻
2/6/24Reply
10 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Melbourne: NGV International
February 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F
Today we balanced road trip prep work with sightseeing.

After breakfast, Mui headed out to do some shopping … groceries for home-cooked meals to take on the road. After he got back, we went off to have fun … leaving the actual cooking for this afternoon.

When Regatta called on Melbourne in January, we visited the Melbourne Museum. We spent so much time there that we didn’t get to the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) then. So, that was our priority today.

Founded in 1861, NGV is Australia’s oldest art museum. It also has the distinction of being the most visited one. The museum consists of two sites. The one we went to today is NGV: International … on St Kilda Road. We would have gone to the Ian Potter Center: NGV Australia, too. But we ran out of steam … and time.

In this building are the museum’s European, Asian, Oceanic, and American art collections.

We found a lot that pleased our eye. And a lot that left us scratching our heads.Read more
Sonia GelmanI had a good laugh at the banana art
2/7/24Reply
Two to TravelThat’s all you can do 🤷🏼‍♀️
2/7/24Reply
8 likes
Adventuring Down Under
3
Melbourne: This & That
February 7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
On our way to and from the National Gallery of Victoria … a few things that caught our eye … and also our late lunch at Brunetti Oro, recommended by our friends Kadi & Brad, who are also in Australia and were in Melbourne just a few days ago.

Brunetti is a renowned Italian Pasticceria … with a history that goes back to 1943 when Giorgio Angele began training as a pastry chef in Rome. He came to Melbourne in 1956 as the pastry chef for the Italian Olympic team. After the games, he stayed on in Melbourne and opened his first cake shop. He purchased Brunneti’s in 1991.

Oro — on Flinders Lane — is the flagship location that was opened in 2017. Walking inside, one is in “dessert heaven” … that’s the only way to describe the colorful variety of sweets on display!

To say that the place was hopping would be an understatement. Our only disappointment was that we had left coming here a bit late and the kitchen was closed. So, no “real” food. But the arancinis we got were delicious … fried to a golden, crunchy crisp on the outside … served with a side salad. And the desserts we wrapped up with were all delicious. Yes … all. Mui not only got me the gelato I asked for, but picked up a cannolo for himself and a sfogliatella to share. Hey, we’ve been good these past few days! That’s my story, and I’m sticking to it!

Returning to the apartment around 5:00p, Mui donned his “virtual apron” and got down to cooking up a storm in the kitchen. At last count there were three different pots on the stove … and a pan of something in the oven! Next step … portioning them into freezer bags. Having home-cooked meals on the road will be a nice change of pace.Read more
Traveler Looks delicious!!
2/7/24Reply
Two to TravelIt is … we tasted a bit last night.
2/7/24Reply
Traveler ❤️
2/7/24Reply
13 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Melbourne: NGV Australia
February 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
Another great day in Melbourne.

After breakfast, we headed off to the National Gallery of Victoria … again. But this time, we went to the Ian Potter Centre … home of NGV Australia.

As the name implies, on exhibit here is the museum’s collection of Australian art … both indigenous and non-indigenous … historical as well as present day works. Very different from the art exhibited at NGV International.

As much as we enjoyed yesterday’s experience with international art, Mui and I agreed that we enjoyed today’s experience of the works that represent this country more.Read more
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Melbourne: This & That II
February 8, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
As we did yesterday, after spending time at NGV — this time Australia — we headed off on a meandering stroll … on our way to lunch.

Across the street from the Ian Potter Center is Graffiti Alley, so we detoured to walk through there. An edgy sort of place. The Main Street was filled with tourists, but the side alleys were … well, let’s just say that we didn’t wander too far down them once we glimpsed the goings on there.

On our flight from Burnie to Melbourne on the 6th, we got to talking with the purser on our flight. She’s based out of Melbourne and was kind enough to write up a number of restaurant recommendations. Initially, we were going to go to the Spanish tapas place she recommended, but the South Melbourne Markets were closed today. So, we went to Il Solito Posto, an Italian restaurant on the list instead. She did not steer us wrong! The food was delicious; the service good and friendly.

Then, off to explore a bit more … and walk-off the delicious tiramisu that we had as dessert.

Melbourne has a great tram system. A large section of the CBD is designated as the free zone. Hop on, hop off at will … no tapping necessary. So, the MyKi cards we picked up when we were here in January stayed in the wallet and we didn’t have to add money to them during this short stay.

While a number of tram lines run within the free zone, #35 is designated the City Circle Tram and makes the entire circuit clockwise in about an hour. We didn’t stay on for the entire ride, opting to get off at the Docklands for a stroll on the promenade. Then, we hopped on #70, got off at Market Street, and crossed the Yarra River via Queen’s Bridge. Strolling along the Southbank Promenade for a while, we recrossed the river at Prince’s Bridge for the walk back to the apartment. A delightful afternoon walk … on a day with delightful weather … comfy temps and plenty of sunshine.

Thus we brought our time in Melbourne to a close. Tomorrow we pick up our caravan and begin our second road trip … this one on the mainland.Read more
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Picked Up Our Apartment On Wheels
February 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
Got our orientation done and have our Let’s Go caravan … home through the end of the month.

Ready to take care of pre-trip grocery shopping and chores … then off we will go🤞🏻

Will be staying in a caravan park in the vicinity overnight to get settled in.Read more
Sonia GelmanNice looking house! Safe travels!
2/9/24Reply
Two to TravelNice to be settled in one place for 20 days.
2/9/24Reply
13 likes
Adventuring Down Under
2 2
Settled into the Caravan
February 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
Our 20-day caravan trip will take us from Melbourne in Victoria to Perth in Western Australia. That’s some 2,173 miles … as the crow flies, so to speak. But we will be dilly-dallying along the way, so I expect our miles will vary quite a bit from that number.

After picking up our Jayco caravan from Let’s Go Motorhomes in Tullamarine (near the airport), we set off to provision it for the road.

But before doing that, we stopped by Let’s Go’s mechanic and had a tire replaced. The tire would have been fine more than likely. But knowing that we’d be driving far — and with part of it through the Nullarbor where there’s essentially little in the way of civilization — we are glad Let’s Go agreed to replace it at no charge to us when Mui expressed concern over it.

That done, we drove to Costco in Epping. Yes, the mega box-store is in Australia as well. Not that we could buy much there since we don’t need 48 rolls of toilet paper … 🤪. But it was a good place to pick up a couple of cases of bottled water, a couple of bottles of wine, some snacks to alternate with our home-cooked meals. You know … the good stuff!

Onto Aldi next for small-quantity groceries. Then to KMart for inexpensive trash bins … why there aren’t any in the caravan already is beyond us!

Provisioning completed, we drove to the Big4 Melbourne Holiday Park in Coburg for our overnight. Holiday parks in Australia are basically a mix of caravan, tent, and cabin sites. This one, being near Melbourne, is quite popular … packed, you might say! We plan to dry camp where possible on this road trip, but we booked a campground for tonight so that we could have water and electric hook-ups while we unpacked and got settled in.

When we decided to do a caravan trip in Australia, we booked a 4-berth Class C … primarily for the over-the-cab bed so that we would have somewhere to store our luggage. Turns out that we were upgraded to a 6-berth. Not that the size is all that different from a 4-berth … maybe a foot longer. Anyway, finding a place for everything was no problem. And I can easily say that we are settled.

Hope to have some fun stuff to share as we head west across Australia. Looking forward to the adventure. Can’t say the same about the weather. It was 107F in Perth today. Luckily, we don’t have to deal with that kind of temperatures quite yet!Read more
What a fantastic trip, Erin! You are exploring Australia in the most extraordinary way. Safe and happy travels on this next leg! [Mary O. Greenberg]
2/9/24Reply
Two to Travel🙏🏻
2/9/24Reply
Traveler Is the shower any bigger than on Insignia?
2/9/24Reply
Two to TravelBigger than the Cat B veranda cabin shower 😁
2/9/24Reply
9 more comments
14 likes
Adventuring Down Under
OTR: Caravaning … Day 1
February 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
Coburg to the Twelve Apostles on the Great Ocean Road
Distance Traveled: 210 Miles

Our first day of driving the caravan … starting out through rush hour traffic leaving Melbourne. A bit harrowing. But having an RV of our own that is about the same size, Mui felt fairly comfortable. And it helped that he’d been driving on the left side for the past few weeks. Smooth sailing once we eased out of city traffic … except for one wrong turn, which the GPS helped us to right quickly.

The Great Ocean Road (GOR) — so named in 1936 when it was proclaimed a “tourist road” — is the result of a citizen initiative established in 1917 to not just build the road, but to provide employment to servicemen returning from WWI. The construction of the road was done in stages from 1919 on, the progress dependent on the availability of men and money. In the end “… 3,000 ex-servicemen worked with pick and shovel, using stone and natural materials of the area.”

The road follows the contours of the coast. It linked up the seaside settlements and opened up the coast for development. As well, it provided “… the motoring public with ‘one of the most beautiful ocean drives in the world.’ …” Those motorists had to pay a toll at Eastern View, the site of the Memorial Arch. When the government took over the road and its maintenance in 1936, the toll was abolished. Today, the nearly 150-mile road is a tourist attraction due to its reputation for being one of the great coastal roads in the world. A well-deserved reputation I might add.

All along the road is amazing scenery … seascapes to our left traveling west as we are, and bushland to our right.

We started our sightseeing at Point Addis, a slight detour recommended by the Lonely Planet guide. The lookouts here afforded us our first real glimpse of the beautiful beaches, amazing cliffs, and rough surf that seems to be part and parcel of the coast.

We made frequent stops along the way, pulling into lookouts … which, in most cases, were large enough to accommodate caravans and trailers as well as cars. We used one such overlook for our lunch break. Nothing like a spot with a view for a quick bite on the road.

When we came to the Cape Otway turn-off, the lure of seeing koalas in the wild led us down a 15-mile in/out detour. Saw none on the way in, but did spot a few high in the trees on the way out … too high in the trees to photograph with anything but a long less.

Since we had detoured down the road anyway, we paid up and visited the Cape Otway Lightstation … constructed on the second southern-most point of mainland Australia — after Wilsons Promontory … located further east along the coast of Victoria. For those who had spent months at sea traveling from Europe and North America to Australia, the cape was the first sighting of land … the lightstation their “Beacon of Hope.”

Completing the detour, we got back on the GOR, arriving at the Twelve Apostles Visitor Center around 6:30p. As we were driving west, I was concerned that the sun’s glare would wash out the scenery. I was right. But we found a solution.

The Lonely Planet guidebook describes this iconic off-shore landmark as “… the most enduring image for most visitors to the Great Ocean Road …”. Shaped by the power of nature — wind, rain, and particularly the amazing waves that crash on to them 24/7 … 365 days … year after year — the sea stacks stand in the water … alongside a headland that is retreating due to the erosive power of the sea.

Turns out that there were never 12 of these sandstone sea stacks. Originally known as the Sow & Piglets, someone had the bright idea of renaming them to something a bit more venerable. The thinking was that it would attract more tourists. Would tourists still have flocked here without the name change? Who knows! But they do come in droves to see the seven towers that still stand.

Tourist guides specify that the best time to visit the Twelve Apostles is at sunset … the tour buses are long gone by then … and it is possible to see little penguins coming ashore as night falls. As little as those penguins are … a highly doubt the second reason is valid, unless you are down on the beach … which means hiking back up in the dark. Hmmm! I think not.

Thanks to a decision we made while at Twelve Apostles, we were able to see the amazing scenery a second time as the sun set over the sea. Very impressive. And a great end to our first day of caravaning in Australia!Read more
Sonia GelmanJust WOW!
2/12/24Reply
Two to TravelYou can do portions of the road from Melbourne on a tour. Long day probably, but worth it.
2/12/24Reply
10 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Parking Lot Camping @ 12 Apostles
February 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 68 °F
Yup, that was our solution to the sun-glare washed-out first glimpse of the iconic Twelve Apostles.

Instead of continuing on to Port Campbell where we might or might not have found a spot for dry camping, we stayed in the parking lot at the visitor center. Since the VC was closed and there was no one to ask if it was OK to camp out overnight, we relied on the fact that there were no signs prohibiting what we planned to do.

We picked the furthest caravan parking slot, parking with our slide out towards the trees and bushes so that we could discretely open it.

Then a quick bite of dinner. Followed by another trip to the lookout platform to view the Twelve Apostles at sunset.

Now, with the parking lot empty — and the lights off in the caravan to conserve our battery overnight, I am doing some star gazing through the oversized window by the dinette.

Indeed … a good end to our first day on the road.Read more
10 likes
Adventuring Down Under
OTR: Caravaning … Day 2
February 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F
Twelve Apostles to the Dog Valley via the Great Ocean Road
Left the State of Victoria and entered South Australia
Distance Traveled: 240 Miles

Our second day on the Great Ocean Road (GOR)!

After a good night’s rest in a pitch dark parking lot — which made stargazing quite amazing — we were up in time to walk over to the Twelve Apostles platform for sunrise. We watched the sea stacks slowly light up as the sun rose. Maybe 3-4 other early birds sharing the experience. Just lovely.

We returned to the caravan for breakfast; got ready for the day ahead. Then, back to the lookout for one last look at the Twelve Apostles. WOW! During our short absence, a thick marine layer/fog had moved in to veil the scenery. Having now experienced the Twelve Apostles under varying conditions, we were ready to leave them behind.

By 9:00a, we were on the road. Our first stop, just 3 miles or so down the GOR, was at Loch Ard Gorge. What an amazing spot this u-shaped gorge, which lets the sea in to crash ashore, turned out to be.

The gorge was named for the iron-hulled clipper Loch Ard, which, in 1878, sunk off Mutton Island in the wee hours of the final day of its voyage from England. Of the 37 crew and 19 passengers onboard, only two people survived. They sheltered in a cave on the beach until they were rescued. Normally, one can walk down for a closer look at the cave, but due to recent cliff movement resulting from an earthquake, the trail has been deemed unsafe and closed off.

The light on the cliff faces was perfect … especially when we walked over to the lookout for a closer look at the tip of the headland where we could see that one of the rock formations had an arch developing at its base. The sea was coming into the gorge in big waves, crashing into the rocks where it had to squeeze through the cliffs. A spectacular sight.

Our next stop was in the small seaside resort town of Port Campbell. This is where we had initially planned to overnight last night. Since we didn’t, we could have bypassed it. But we drove in anyway, parked the caravan, and went for a short walk. While Mui stopped into a café to get us some refreshments, I strolled down to the beach for photo ops. We enjoyed our break at one of the picnic tables overlooking the beach … nothing like having a view to entertain us.

Next up, was a rock formation called London Bridge. Just like the nursery song says, it has fallen down. The breaking of the soft limestone bridge happened in 1990. Signage at the site states that it was a matter of time before the 10-25 million year old rock would give way to the erosive power of Mother Nature. At the time of the event, two tourists were marooned on what Lonely Planet refers to as “the world’s newest island.” No worries … a helicopter rescue brought them back to the mainland.

As we neared the end of the GOR, the pullouts leading to overlooks became more numerous. A number of them had signs indicating that they were not suitable for caravans and buses. But we did manage to go in at Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands for our last glimpses of the beautiful scenery that had brought us here for a two-day drive.

Warrnambool, was our diesel top-off point. Our first time having to use AdBlue — similar to DEF in the USA … a diesel exhaust fluid used in vehicles with Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) technology. The purpose is to reduce harmful gases being released into the atmosphere. At truck stops, the AdBlue nozzle is on the pump, so it’s easy enough to add it when topping off. Smaller stations don’t always have that option. Since we don’t know what lies ahead in respect to topping off our diesel — and thus our AdBlue — we purchased a 10-gallon drum to carry with us. Better safe than sorry!

By the time we had the caravan fueled up it was time to fuel up ourselves. Port Fairy, a town described as having a “relaxed, salty feel” was next up. It also had a public campground in the Gardens Oval next to the Botanical Gardens where we could dump our cassette waste, thus killing two birds with one stone.

After taking care of the dumping, we headed over to Port Fairy’s East Beach. A nice breeze off the water made the decision for us to eat at the picnic bench overlooking the beach …. A strip of white sand which fronts the sea … every shade of blue imaginable … tipped with white surf. Al fresco dining with a view … what’s not to like?

Our route from Port Fairy would have taken us through Portland, where Regatta stopped in January. But we were done with our sightseeing, so we opted to go inland instead … a faster route.Read more
9 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Rest Stop Camping in the Dog Valley
February 11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 79 °F
Our plan was to overnight in Port Gambier. But it was too early to stop when we got there. Especially since we had entered the state of South Australia … leaving Victoria behind. And gained a ½-hour in the time zone change.

So, we decided to push on to Penola. And then to Naracoorte. Topping off the fuel there, we started looking for places to dry camp.

Which is how we came to be at a rest area in the Dog Valley. There’s a bit of traffic going by, but we expect that to drop as the evening gives way to nightfall. We maneuvered in front of a picnic shelter where there is light and have the slide facing the cattle/sheep station that we are parked next to. Good neighbors … very quiet 🤪Read more
10 likes
Adventuring Down Under
OTR: Caravaning … Day 3
February 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 95 °F
Dog Valley to Mitcham
Distance Traveled: 199 miles

When you have no hook-ups or anything outdoors to put away, departure from a campsite is quick and easy. We were on the road by 8:30a this morning. As was the case yesterday, we drove through wine country for a while and then left the vineyards behind for rural scenery.

After two days of driving-with-sightseeing, today was mostly about driving to get from point A to point B. Thus not much of a story to tell.

We heeded the signs recommending drivers to “Stop / Revive / Survive” and pulled into several of the numerous (and frequent) rest areas as we made our way north. Most of the pull outs were without amenities; a few had rest rooms, caravan dump points, and spigots. One rest room even had classical music playing through speakers.

All of the fun stops were for photo ops right off the road. I was especially happy to see murals along the way … one of them part of the Australia-wide Silo Art Trail.

Knowing that our stops today would be limited, I figured out a way to set up a desk of sorts so I can write — and maybe even process photos — while we’re on the move. The cutting board that also serves as a sink cover now has a third job as a lap desk 😉. Since power usage is something we have to keep an eye on when dry-camping, and the solar panel on the roof of this caravan is barely sufficient to float the batteries, I have been wary of using my electronic devices these past few nights. Now I have a solution that should keep me closer to real-time-posting than not.Read more
TravelerMy humble question - was there a reason you have not taken route B1? A66/A6 looks like a highway, but B1 seems to be the same distance to Mitcham.
2/13/24Reply
Two to TravelSame distance but a little slower. Also he knew I’d want to stop more frequently if we went along the shore. Mui wanted to get up north sooner rather than later as he was anxious about making sure we got to the ferry on time. He promised to relax once we cross the bay to Eyre Peninsula 😉
2/13/24Reply
10 likes
Adventuring Down Under
Campground Camping @ Brownhill Creek
February 12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 93 °F
Dry camping was fine at Twelve Apostles. The temperature was very comfortable.

But yesterday, as we moved inland, the temperature started heating up. Opening all the windows — thanks to each of them having a fly screen — sufficed to cool things down once we settled into the rest area. But it did take a while for the temp to feel comfortable.

Knowing that the temp was forecasted to go up and up and up as we drove up and up and up, last night I went online and booked us into a G’day Park … the Brownhill Creek Caravan Park … about 4 miles from the Adelaide CBD.

It was getting on towards 3:00p when we pulled into the Brownhill Creek Caravan Park in Mitcham at the end of our driving day.

We have been assigned to A3 … a wide pull through site with 20A electricity (standard from what I can tell). We also have a sullage point at our site … meaning a place to connect our hose to dump the grey water. While Australia allows dumping grey water anywhere when dry camping … it is sink/shower water and the plants/soil like getting a free drink, you have to use the sullage point when in a campground. Black water from the toilet goes to a cassette, which you carry to a dump point to empty.

While the temp had been comfortable when we set out on our drive this morning, it had steadily increased. By the time we got to Mitcham, the thermometer was reading mid-90F. Before doing anything else, we got the electricity connected so we could get the A/C going. We also closed the curtain between the cockpit and living room, and pulled up all the shades. Good practice for when we are driving the Nullarbor later on in our caravan trip.

The laundry is done. Dinner is over — we had one of Mui’s frozen home-cooked meals tonight. The journal is caught up. Time to relax.Read more
TravelerGlad you are still able to be comfortable.
2/13/24Reply
11 likes