• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
wrz – gru 2024

Fall & Winter 2024

Combo trip journal ... including time with family in Türkiye; a Viking river cruise (Eastern European Capitals); more family time in Türkiye; and a TransAtlantic Cruise back home on NCL Encore. Czytaj więcej
  • It’s A Small World

    24 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Moyra and I have been friends since our junior high days at the American Collegiate Institute in İzmir.

    She returned to the US for high school, while I remained in Türkiye until after Mui and I got married and made the permanent move to the US in 1982.

    Despite distances — near and far — we managed to continue our friendship … first via snail mail … then via email. When social media made an appearance, staying in touch became easier. We also got together in person a couple of times in the US … first in Portland, Oregon … then in Austin, Texas.

    Moyra didn’t know that we would be in İzmir in September this year. Nor did we know that her travel plans included a bit of time in İzmir around the same dates.

    Then we saw her Facebook post … sharing photos from her outings around Izmir. The rest, you could say, is history. We exchanged a few messages and made plans to have lunch today at Ayşa, a restaurant in the Kemeraltı District.

    It didn’t matter that our last in-person get together was in 2015. Our camaraderie was renewed the instant we saw each other at the designated meeting point for today’s luncheon date … and continued with chatter, laughter, and good food during lunch.

    This get together definitely falls under the “it’s a small world” category.
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  • Colors

    28 września 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Mui and I went for a walk with mom today.

    Our steps took us to Kültürpark (Culture Park) … a green space established in the heart of the District of Alsancak in 1936. It’s just a short distance from mom’s apartment. Pleasant weather … lack of crowds … a very nice outing.

    Before turning back to retrace our steps, we took a break at İzmir Sanat Kafe (İzmir Art Café), a popular meeting spot for locals and tourists alike. Cheese toasties; lemon cheesecake; tea and cold beverages … and people watching, of course.

    Just as we were about to leave, I spotted a casual, outdoor art exhibit … featuring some of the winning photos from “Colors,” an International photography contest. As you can tell from the attached images, the contest was aptly named.
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  • Breakfast @ P’an-Ku

    5 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    With Mui and Murat both in Kuşadası today — the former to meet up with friends from high school; the latter to participate in a swim meet — I took the rest of the family out for breakfast.

    On Aylin’s suggestion — she knows all the best places — we went to P’an-Ku … a pancake place just a few streets over from mom’s apartment building. She definitely did not steer us wrong!

    Yummy food!
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  • Kadlin to Rinda

    5 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    In the period between September 11-17, Storm Boris brought torrential rains and strong winds to Central Europe. At least 24 people died as a result of the storm. Mandatory evacuations were ordered in some places along the River Danube. Heavy flooding resulted in quite a bit of devastation in cities large and small along the river … Vienna and Budapest amongst them. River traffic — both passenger and cargo — came to a halt.

    During the storm, and in its aftermath, river boats and ships — such as the Viking longship we were scheduled to embark next week — had to seek safe shelter where they could because they were unable to pass under bridges along the Danube or were stranded because canal locks were inoperable.

    All that has since passed. River traffic is now plying the waters of the Danube; water levels have gone down and flooding has ceased; work is ongoing to erase the ravages wrought by the storm.

    But because the river cruise ships were unable to get where they were supposed to go, it became necessary to cancel some cruises, reschedule some ports, and swap ships.

    Thankfully, we have not been impacted by a cancelation or rescheduling. But we will no longer be sailing the Longship Kadlin … the “Daughter of a Norse Nobleman.” Instead, on 13 October, we will be embarking the Longship Rinda …. the “Norse Goddess of the Frozen Earth.”

    Rinda is a sister ship that is an exact twin of the Kadlin. Thus, as the notification email we received from Viking states, “… all other aspects of your trip, including your stateroom selection, itinerary, and any extensions you may have booked with us, will remain the same.”

    Now we keep our fingers crossed that all goes smoothly once we embark upon our Danube cruise.
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  • Gull @ Sunset

    6 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    Colorful sunset from mom’s terrace …

  • Mui’s Weekend in Kuşadası

    6 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Kuşadası, often thought to be a municipality of the Province of İzmir — because neighboring Selçuk is indeed a municipality of İzmir — actually is part of the Province of Aydın. What was a small beach town when I was growing up, is now a big city … popular with tourists for its beaches, and also because of its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus, a city of antiquity.

    Mui and I have both spent quite a bit of time in Kuşadası … both as children and as adults. This time, however, he went off on his own for a two-night getaway.

    Actually, I take that back. He went with his cousin Esin and her husband, Cenap. His purpose for the trip was two-fold — to cheer on Esin, Cenap, and Murat, who were participating in a swim meet on the 5th; and to visit with some friends from high school who happen to be vacationing in Kuşadası. As a bonus, he managed to take a dip or two at Kadınlar Plajı, the beach fronting the hotel and the site of the swim meet. He also did a bit of sightseeing in the city center, taking photos for this footprint as he strolled along the waterfront.

    From what I can tell, a good time was had by all!

    P.S. Kadınlar Plajı translates as Women’s Beach. Tradition has it that this is the beach in the story of Ulysses where, distracted by Sirens, seafarers ran aground. Hence the name.
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  • Packing Day & Hanging Zipcubes

    8 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We’re off to Vienna, Austria tomorrow for a pre-cruise stay before we embark Viking’s Longship Rinda on the 13th.

    What does that mean?

    Packing! Ugh!!!!

    River cruises carry an inherent risk. If the water level is too low, the cruise can be disrupted. Similarly, if the water level is too high, the cruise can also be disrupted.

    More often than not, the disruption is in the form of having to be bused between ports. If you’re lucky, you embark another vessel at the port to which you are bused and cruise merrily down the river again. If you are unlucky, you may have to be bused between multiple ports, overnighting on different ships or hotels in between.

    In any event, being bused essentially means having to pack/unpack your bags … as many times as necessary.

    To ease the chore of having to pack/unpack — should it become necessary to do so — we purchased a couple of Biaggi Hangmates Hanging Zipcubes on sale … in lieu of investing in new luggage with built-in shelves. We’ll hang the de-compressed zipcubes in the closet in our cabin and keep our clothes nice and tidy on the shelves. If it becomes necessary to re-pack for a bus transfer, we’ll just compress the zipcubes, place them in our bags, collect our toiletries, and voilà … we’ll be ready to go.

    I was able to pack all the clothing I am taking on the river cruise — two week’s worth of mix & match outfits, smalls, socks, and what have you — on the shelves and easily compress them into the built in cube. If I worked at it, I could probably get three weeks worth of clothes into the cube.

    Technically, if we didn’t have walking boots, cold-weather and rain gear, toiletries, and electronics and camera accoutrements, we could just carry the cubes onto the airplane, and then de-compress and hang them when we get to our destination. But since we do have that extra stuff, we are traveling with a small suitcase each. The cube sits in the bottom of the bag; and the top half holds all the other stuff (which we will pull out of the bag as necessary). Of course, we have small carry-on bags as well for electronics, meds, and such … stuff that we would never put in checked bags.

    Though it might not seem so to some readers, we are traveling quite light for this cruise … definitely much lighter than usual. We just need to put last minute items in our bags tomorrow morning and then we’re off.
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  • On Our Way to ADB

    9 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    We are on the way to the airport for our flight to Vienna.

    Traffic is horrible during the morning rush hour. So, we took a cab from the apartment to the Alsancak Tren Garı [train terminal]. And then hopped on the light rail — IZBAN — to the airport.

    While we had to pay for the taxi ($2.92), the ride on IZBAN is free for us — benefit of age 😁. Convenient and free … the best of both worlds!
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  • Our Chariot Awaits

    9 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Our aircraft is at Gate 232, being prepared for the ADB-VIE flight.

    Looks like an on time departure might be in the cards for us 🤞🏻

  • Vienna, Austria: Arrived & Settled In

    9 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    An uneventful flight brought us from ADB to VIE.

    We were the only international flight arriving at VIE when we landed early at 12:45p local time. Immigration formalities were easy peasy … plenty of agents on hand to process those of us who did not qualify to use the biometric entry gates.

    Next up … purchasing train tickets and 7-day transportation passes — the former to get us into the city today; the latter to get us around the city. We found the counter in the arrival halls and made our purchase in no time at all. Then it was just a matter of making our way to the Flughafen Wien Station and boarding the next train into the city a few minutes later. Transferring to the U6 (brown) metro line, a short ride put us less than 5 minutes walking distance to the AirBNB apartment that will be our base for four nights.

    Once we were settled in, we headed out to the Billa Plus supermarket … kitty corner from the apartment. We now have our breakfast fixings and some light snacks for evening meals … plan to have our main meal mid-day somewhere convenient to whatever sightseeing plans we have on the calendar that day.

    We’re taking it easy tonight. Tomorrow we have timed-entry tickets bright and early to visit … well, you just have to wait to find out what’s on our agenda for our first full day in Vienna.
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  • Busy Sightseeing in Vienna

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The good news is that we had a great day in Vienna today.

    The bad news is that if today is any indication, I won’t be doing much writing. Simply no spare time to go through photos to share in the footprints. So, don’t worry if you don’t see any posts until we get back to Türkiye. It just means that we are “living the moment” and enjoying our trip.

    In the meantime, I left you all hanging with what our plans were for today. I thought I would at least answer that question. The picture attached to this post says it all.
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  • Vienna: Schloss Schönbrunn (Part I)

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Schloss Schönbrunn, the hunting-lodge-turned-imperial-residence of the Habsburgs, has “always been a place of interest to visitors, and the history of sightseeing at the palace did not merely start with the end of the Habsburg Monarchy in 1918.” So explained one of the info panels at the palace.

    At first, only nobility, envoys from other countries, and high-ranking foreigners got to glimpse what was inside the estate. Then came the Vienna World Exhibition of 1873 and Emperor Franz Joseph opened parts of the palace to the public. Tours were conducted of the premises … but the private apartments of the imperial family were strictly off-limits. That was then and things have changed since. These days, visitors stream in by the hundreds — if not thousands — to roam the estate and check out the private apartments. The main grounds are free; admission is charged to go inside the buildings and some of the gardens.

    Today it was our turn to wander the halls of the 1,441-room-estate — OK, so we got to see only 40 of the said rooms during our Grand Tour — and stroll through the grounds to our heart’s content … the rain that plagued us for a while notwithstanding.

    The ‘five-stop, two-metro-line trip’ from our AirBNB to Schloss Schönbrunn took a mere 15 minutes or so … putting us at our destination with time to spare for exterior photos before it was time for our DIY/audioguide tour. We had booked the very first time slot of the day — 8:30a — to avoid the worst of the crowds. Very smart move as it turns out. There were just three other couples when we scanned our tickets and began exploring the palace. It did get more crowded as the morning wore on, but it was nothing like the crowds we saw waiting in the lobby when we left at 12:30p.

    The history of Schönbrunn can be traced back to the Middle Ages. But don’t worry, I am not going to bore you with all that. Nor am I going to delve deep into the history of the estate through the centuries. Anyone interested can find volumes of such information on the internet. Suffice to say that it was 1569 when Schönbrunn came into the hands of the Habsburgs, who ruled Austria — and a number of other countries on and off — from 1282 to 1918.

    Schönbrunn means “beautiful spring” … in reference to the artesian well that provided water to the court. The palace served as the summer residence to many members of the imperial family, including such notable names as Empress Maria Theresa … she received the estate as a wedding gift; and Franz Joseph, the longest reigning Emperor of Austria, and his wife … Sisi as Empress Elizabeth was more commonly known.

    And on that note, let’s take a photo-walk through some of the rooms of Schloss Schönbrunn … a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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  • Vienna: Schloss Schönbrunn (Part II)

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    The forecast today called for a cool to downright chilly day — especially when the wind was blowing and the sun was hiding. Periods of light rain, too.

    Well, wouldn’t you know it? The rain found us when we left the imperial and state apartments behind to stroll the grounds at Schloss Schönbrunn. The good news? By the time we were ready to climb up to the crest of Schönbrunn Hill, the sun was out and the rain had moved on … at least for a while.

    The palace grounds are quite extensive … just under .4 square miles. And like the palace, they are UNESCO-listed. The area referred to as the park was opened to the public in 1779. No admission charged then or now, it is a popular recreational space for both locals and visitors. Some of the gardens — such as the Privy Garden, the Maze, and the Orangery — require admission … in our case, included in the Classic Pass we had pre-booked. (Though today the Orangery seemed to be open to anyone who wished to enter … because it was undergoing some restoration work.)

    A mix of woodland, topiary, flowering shrubs, rare plants, and landscaped parterres make up the grounds … studded with statues and fountains. Alas, this time of the year, there weren’t many colorful flowers to delight us. As lovely as we found the grounds today, I can only imagine how spectacular they must be in the spring and summer.

    We began our stroll — the hoods of our rain jackets pulled up and our umbrellas open to keep the camera from getting wet — at the Kronprinzengarten [Crown Princes’s Garden] … more commonly referred to as the Privy Garden. Dating back to the 18th century, it served as a private retreat for the imperial family. On three sides is a pergola covered in Virginia creeper. Providing shade when the sun is shining, today it served to shield us from the rain. Between the palace and the viewing platform, landscaped parterres added an element of formality to the scene our eyes beheld.

    From this garden, we found the turnstile that got us into the park. We followed long, pebble-strewn dirt paths … meandering here and there to check out some of the statues and water features … small and large … the highlights of which for us were the Roman Ruins Fountain (once known as the Ruin of Carthage; built in 1778) and the Neptune Fountain (the crowning feature of the Great Parterre; commissioned by Empress Maria Theresa in the 1770s).

    From the Great Parterre we followed the zig-zag path up Schönbrunn Hill to the Gloriette, a colonnaded belvedere that was built in 1775.

    We thank the sun for gracing us with blue skies at this point as the view down towards the palace — with Vienna stretching far beyond it — was simply the crowning touch to our visit to Schloss Schönbrunn.
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  • Vienna Lunch: When in Wien …

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    … of course you have to have Wiener schnitzel … at least once!

    It was nigh on 1:00p when we left Schloss Schönbrunn. We were both totally wiped out from all the walking and standing around while exploring the palace and the grounds. And we were hungry. Time for lunch. Having lived in Vienna for several years, Esin — Mui’s cousin — had suggested Schnitzelwirt as the place to go to sate our appetite for schnitzel.

    It took us another two-metro-line trip and a 20-minute walk to get to the restaurant. We’d been warned that there could be a queue waiting to be seated. Luckily, it was a short one. The schnitzels were worth the wait … and the order way too plentiful. We could have easily split a single order, which consisted of two plate-size schnitzels. We ate what we could, leaving just enough room in our tummies to share a crepe stuffed with vanilla ice cream. Have to have a sweet treat! We’ll get another meal out of the leftover schnitzels, so all’s good.

    Knowing that our plans for tonight would keep us up late, we decided to head back to the apartment to rest up for a bit.

    It was once again raining when we left Schnitzelwirt. Instead of walking to the metro station for the ride back home, we hopped on the #49 tram … which dropped us off not too far from the apartment. We were a little soggy by the time we unlocked the door … but none the worse for wear.
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  • Vienna: Swan Lake @ the Staatsoper

    10 października 2024, Austria ⋅ 🌫 55 °F

    Around 6:00p, having rested our weary feet and feeling refreshed, we left the apartment for the Wiener Staatsoper [Vienna State Opera].

    Before leaving the US in September, I had checked the schedule of performances at the opera house. There was a different performance staged on each night of our time in Vienna. Some were already sold out; some only had “standing seats”; some were of no interest to us. Tonight’s ballet performance of Swan Lake, however, hit the sweet spot.

    I have tickets booked for the opera house tour later in the week, so I am not going to say much about the building itself in this footprint. And everyone knows the story of Swan Lake, or can look it up on the internet, so no need for a description of the storyline of the ballet either. Suffice to say that the Nureyev-choreographed ballet was beautifully performed … both by the dancers and the musicians.

    It was 10:15p by the time the performance was over … two intermissions adding to the overall length of the ballet. We got home around 10:45p, ready for a good night’s rest.

    Another busy day of sightseeing awaits us tomorrow.
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  • Vienna: Hofburg … Sisi Museum

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This morning again started with all things Habsburg.

    We arrived at St Michael’s Square a few minutes before our 9:00a self-guided tour of the imperial apartments and the museum at Hofburg. The doors were not yet open; only one person was in line … a couple more people showed up after we were invited inside. By the time we left, the crowds had grown, so I’m glad we had another early-start day.

    During the 630+ years that the Habsburgs ruled over Austria, many dukes, archdukes, and emperors sat on the throne. Some loved … some hated. There was also one ruling empress — Maria Theresa — who was much loved by the people for her courage, generosity, and kindness.

    There was one other empress whose name seems to pop up even more often than Maria Theresa — Empress Elizabeth … Sisi as she is known worldwide.

    Sisi was famous not just for her glamour, but also because she cared for the ordinary people. In her will she apparently designated part of her fortune to be used for good causes benefiting the needy and persecuted. A gift that keeps on giving. In fact, I found an article on the UN Refugee Agency website indicating that they are supported in part by that gift for the work they do in the countries of the former Habsburg Empire.

    Today, we learned a bit more about Sisi when we visited the museum dedicated to her … housed in the Stephan apartments at Hofburg, the palace complex in the Vienna city center that served as the winter residence of the imperial family.

    The museum is small. The items on display mostly consist of personal items or replicas of the same. Sisi is portrayed in some quarters as being moody, intellectual, emotionally disturbed, beauty-obsessed … a complicated person. The intent of the museum is to “… illustrate the true personality of the frequently misunderstood Empress.” The exhibits were bookended with her death — a death mask and funeral images reproduced from lithographs at the front end … the story of her assassination at the back end.

    I knew that Sisi had been assassinated in Geneva … in 1898. What I didn’t know was that it was by happenstance. She just happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

    The assassin — an Italian anarchist — was apparently in Geneva to kill Prince Henri of Orléans. When the Prince changes his travel plans, the assassin turns his attention to Sisi instead. He attacks her as she is about to board a ship back home … his weapon of choice a nail file.

    Neither Sisi nor her lady-in-waiting realize that she has been stabbed in the breast … they believe that she was simply knocked over. They continue with their plans to board the ship and it’s not until the ship has sailed that Siri collapses and the inconspicuous wound is found. The ship returns to shore immediately, but it is too late and Sisi dies at the hotel to which she is taken.

    A sad ending to the life of Austria’s beloved Sisi.
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  • Vienna: Hofburg … Imperial Apartments

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    As I mentioned in the previous post, the Hofburg Palace Complex was the winter residence of the Habsburgs.

    Built in the 13th century — and expanded several times over the course of their 630+ years of rule — it consists of multiple buildings … including residences, a chapel, a library, a treasury, a theater, and a riding school to name but a few. Hofburg, as a word, means “Castle of the Court” … which refers back to its Middle Age origins. Back then it had a more-castle-like look.

    Just as it was the seat of government during the monarchy, it’s been the official residence and office of Austrian President since 1946. The 18 wings, 19 courtyards, and 2,600 rooms have been repurposed as a conference center, government offices, museums, and such. One source says nearly 5,000 people still work and live in the former palace complex.

    Over the course of our stay in Vienna, we will be visiting several of the buildings. This morning, however, our visit to the Sisi Museum in the Imperial Chancellery Wing, led us to Amalienburg to check out the imperial apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elizabeth (Sisi).

    It was in these rooms that the Emperor and Sisi lived and worked until the end of the monarchy. To say that red is the dominant color in most of the rooms would not be an understatement. The Rococo style rooms have rich stucco work gilded in gold. Bohemian crystal chandeliers twinkle from the ceiling. Tiled stoves that once heated the rooms now serve as part of the decorative furnishings. Portraits and sculptures — and many other priceless artifacts — adorn the walls, shelves, and tables.

    I enjoyed wandering through these rooms more than the ones at Schloss Schönbrunn. Just as opulent as the ones there, these rooms had more of the imperial ambiance I was expecting, yet they were more intimate somehow.
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  • Vienna: Sweet Lunch @ Demel

    11 października 2024, Austria

    It was getting on towards 11:30a when we left Hofburg. Tummies growling … time for lunch.

    Since it was a short walk from Hofburg, we decided to follow Esin’s suggestion and go to Demel for coffee and cake in lieu of lunch.

    Demel has a history that dates back to 1786 … when it was a confectioner to the royal court. While there is no royalty these days, Demel prides itself on continuing to uphold the quality of their goods and is still known for its elaborate window displays that harken back to the “… Vienna of a more decadent era.”

    The place was hopping when we arrived, but there was no line waiting to be seated. Soon we were at a table in the café on the first floor.

    After perusing the menu, we decided to split a baguette sandwich — Brie and fig mustard (more like a jam, really). A double espresso, and later a melange (similar to cappuccino, but made with milder coffee), for Mui … Earl Gray tea for me. When it came to ordering a cake, however, we couldn’t agree on one to share. So, we ordered two.

    Mui got Austria’s iconic sachertorte … the origins of which date back to 1832. This chocolate cake, layered with jam (often apricot) is usually very dense … almost to the point of being dry. Esin had told Mui that the moistest version was found at Demel … she did not steer him wrong.

    My choice was the Esterhâzy Torte … a cake that originated in Hungary in the late 19th century. Named for a member of the dynasty by the same name, it became famous in the lands of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire. The cake consists of buttercream spiced with cognac or vanilla, sandwiched between four or five layers of almond meringue cake. Delicious.

    While the cakes were good, it seemed like the servers were having an off day … or they were simply overwhelmed. Their order taking process seemed quite haphazard … or if there was a method to what they were doing, it was only apparent to them.

    Nonetheless, we enjoyed our ‘food break’ after a busy morning of sightseeing.
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  • Vienna: Ephesos Museum @ Hofburg

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Leaving Demel with sated tummies, we returned to the St Michael’s Wing of Hofburg, walked through the gate into what was once the castle inner square, out the back gate to Heldenplatz, and made our way to Hofburg’s Neue Burg [New Castle]. Built during the last expansion of the palace complex, the wing was completed in 1913. Housed inside are a number of museums … Ephesos, Ethnology, Arms and Armour, and Musical Instruments.

    Our destination — the Ephesos Museum — was a surprise find from this morning. Why a surprise? Because we had no idea there was a museum in Vienna that exhibited archaeological finds from Ephesus, one of the most important cities of antiquity … one that served as the capital of the Roman Empire’s Asia Province. A little more than an hour’s drive from my hometown of İzmir, Türkiye, Mui and I have been to Ephesus numerous times and have noted the changes resulting from the continued excavation of the ruins.

    Austrian archaeologists worked on the excavations starting in 1895. Thanks to a controversial agreement between the Ottoman Empire and Austria numerous high quality artifacts that the Austrian archaeologists recovered were removed to Vienna … gifts from Sultan Albdul Hamid to Emperor Franz Joseph. Initially on display at the Theseus Temple in the Volksgarten, the artifacts are now housed in the Ephesos Museum.

    [Austria isn’t the only country where artifacts from cities of antiquity in Türkiye ended up outside the borders. The practice of allowing foreign excavations to remove artifacts is now generally banned by the 1907 Turkish Antiquities Law.]

    Keeping the rest of our plans in mind, we opted to purchase admission just for the Ephesos Museum … €7.50/person (senior rate). Not sure I can say that what we paid was worth what we saw.

    It’s not that the artifacts themselves were an issue. We saw some amazing pieces, including relief panels and fragments from one of the most important Ephesian monuments … the Parthian Monument. Rather, the problem was that the second floor of the museum was closed for a photo shoot and we were not made aware of that in advance. So, we missed out on seeing at least half of the museum. Anyway, we registered our dissatisfaction on our way out.
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  • Vienna: Residenz Orchester Concert

    11 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    The Vienna Residence Orchestra was founded by pianist and conductor Paul Moser and his wife, Sylvia, to perform the works of Viennese classical music. The orchestra performs in different venues around the city … several of which are former palaces. The music ranges from Mozart to Strauss, to Haydn and Beethoven.

    The concert we went to tonight was held in the ballroom of the Old Stock Exchange Palace, located on the famous Ringstrasse … in the first district. Built by architect Theophil Freiherr von Hansen between 1870-1877, the construction is typical of the Viennese style that is also known as Neo-Renaissance. Hansen, who was also the architect of the Vienna Musikverein and the Parliament, was considered a specialist in perfect acoustics, making the Old Stock Exchange perfect for concerts.

    I had opted for VIP seating — guaranteeing seats in the first two rows — for the earlier of the two performances tonight. Turns out that was a good choice as attendance was light, and we got seats front row, center. (The 8:30p performance would be chock-a-block we were told at the ticket desk. I imagine it was … we counted five Viking River Cruise buses dropping off passengers as we were leaving … and another two buses were rounding the square, looking for a place to stop. Sssssh! Let’s not tell them that they overpaid for their tickets 😉).

    No doubt that this concert is designed to entertain tourists. Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed the music … our pleasure enhanced by the fact that most of the pieces were familiar to us. The concert ended with rousing renditions of Mozart’s “Rondo Alla Turca” (Turkish March) and Strauss’s “Radetzky March.” In addition to the music, there were mini-performances by two ballet dancers; and two opera singers.

    When we left the concert, we initially thought to return to the downtown area to take some night shots. But the wind was downright brutal, so we decided to head home instead.

    Tomorrow morning is planned as an easy one since our ticketed-event isn’t until 11:00a. We’ll see if we stick to that plan!
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  • Vienna: Meandering Around the City

    11 października 2024, Turcja ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Leaving the Ephesos Museum, the plan was to take the shortest route to St Stephen’s Cathedral. However, turning the corner from Heldenplatz, we spied the Volksgarten [People’s Garden]. Time for a short detour.

    The garden, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was initially built between 1819-1823 as a private place for the Archdukes of Austria, was opened to the public in 1825. In the center is the Theseus Temple, built as a mini replica of the Athenian temple by the same name. It was designed to house a single work: Antonio Canova’s white marble masterpiece “Theseus Slaying the Centaur.” Later, before the Ephesos Museum was founded, some of the artifacts from Ephesus were exhibited here as well. These days, the temple is periodically used for temporary art exhibits for a single piece of contemporary art.

    Resuming our walk to the cathedral, we noted that the skies in the distance were growing ominous. But the sky was still clear above us. So, we kept going. Along the way, we made one more detour … going into Peterskirche for a quick look-see. When we came back outside, we found the streets wet. Rain was falling steadily. Bummer … the wet stuff just had to catch us while we were once again out and about!

    Despite the rain, we made it to St Stephen’s Cathedral … the mother church of the Vienna Archdiocese. The current Romanesque and Gothic style of the church dates back to the 14th century. It sits on the foundations of two earlier churches. The multi-colored tile roof is one of the most iconic symbols of the city.

    One can enter the church for free. But you have to pay to get into the nave. You have to pay to get into the crypt. You have to pay to go up each tower. If not for the rain, we might have at least gone up one of the towers. Instead, we satisfied ourselves with a meander outside the fenced-off nave, took a few photos, and left. We might return on a nice-weather day if we have time to spare … which seems unlikely at this point.

    By this time, it was getting on towards 3:00p. We decided to head home to rest up before tonight’s concert outing.
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  • Vienna: Lipizzaners

    12 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Got the must- and hope-to-see sights planned out for the rest of our stay in Vienna! That was the first thing we did after breakfast … between doing a couple of loads of laundry in preparation for checking out from the apartment tomorrow.

    And then it was time for sightseeing and fun.

    We left the house around 10:15a to get ourselves to the Hofburg Palace Complex … this time for the 11:00a performance of the world famous white stallions. Having noted yesterday that the performance venue — the Winter Riding School — for the Spanish Riding School sits across the passageway from the Sisi Museum, we knew exactly where to go.

    The Spanish Riding School is dedicated to the “… preservation of classical dressage and the training of Lipizzaner horses, … .” The name of the school is a reference to the Spanish horses that formed the base of the Lipizzan breed. The school dates back to 1565 … it is the oldest of its kind in the world, The Baroque style venue where the performances take place was built in 1729 … commissioned by Emperor Charles VI.

    At first, the performances were only presented to the guests of the Imperial Court. That changed around the turn of the century when the general public was allowed to attend the performances. But the shows back then were held only on special occasions. After the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, the school began regular performances to the general public … as a means for helping to pay for upkeep.

    Our tickets scanned, an usher directed us to a parterre box. I was expecting our seats to be on the balcony, rather than on the performance level. No worries; these were better. Being fourth row center, we had a great vantage point for the performance.

    The demonstration show consisted of four acts, if you will, over a period of 1¼ hours. Between each act, the emcee — automated recording would be my guess — gave information about the school, the horses, the trainers/riders and their uniforms.

    The first act featured 4-6 year old youngsters … mostly in varied shades of grey since their coats don’t turn white until they are older. We were warned that these stallions can be hyper and can “act up” … one did so frequently, with some of the others joining in the fray. These horses demonstrated steps, trots, and gallops.

    The second act included older horses — high schoolers. They demonstrated the movements seen in the Olympic Grand Prix Dressage test. A pair of horses wrapped up this act with the “Pas De Deux” … demonstrating movements in mirror image.

    Then came the Work in Hand” … showing some of the more complex moves, including work on the diagonal, on the wall, and between the pillars. A solo trainer and a fully-trained white stallion showed us the long-rein technique where the trainer walks behind the horse on a long rein and works the horse from that position. Obviously, at this stage, there is a great bond and lots of trust between beast and trainer … one well-placed kick could easily kill the trainer … a woman in our case (in the past, it was only men who trained and rode Lipizzaners.).

    The final act was the “Airs Above Ground” … during which the riders are without stirrups. This is when one gets to see the ‘dancing horses’ … performing what is called the quadrille. The performance ended with the stallions keeping tempo to the “Radetsky March.” Of course, the audience clapped along.

    The performance was definitely more interesting than I thought it would be. Since no photos were allowed during the performance, we picked up a pack of postcards for me to scan … hence, I have a few performance images to share in this footprint.
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  • Vienna: Sweet Lunch @ Sluka

    12 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Vienna is known for its coffee houses. Today, we decided to try another one for lunch … opting this time for one that was on the list my brother sent us a few days ago.

    A 15-minute walk from Hofburg — via back streets — found us standing in front of Conditorei Sluka on Kärntner Straße … like Demel, a court purveyor of confectioneries. Dating back to 1891, Sluka has been “… spoiling its guests with delights for the mouth, body, and soul. …” for over 130 years. We had our turn today.

    This coffee house has several rooms with interesting architectural details that one can reserve for private parties. Two of them were occupied, but I managed to slip into the Octagon Room between parties to check out the amazing ceiling.

    It was 12:45p when we arrived at Sluka. Surprisingly, there was plenty of seating available and we were told to take our pick. So, we settled on a small booth on the outside aisle … quieter.

    We ordered a Mediterranean Toast to split … mozzarella, tomatoes, and arugula on toasted rosemary bread; and a Sluka Torte — which Google translated as Sugar Cake … consisting of light and dark sponge cakes with orange and Cointreau with Parisian Cream.

    All yummy … all very satisfying.
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  • Vienna: Imperial Treasury @ Hofburg

    12 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After lunch we headed back to Hofburg. This time our destination was the Imperial Treasury … accessed via the Schweizerhof [Swiss Courtyard]. This oldest part of the Hofburg Complex was rebuilt in the 16th century in the Renaissance style.

    The Imperial Treasury, associated with the Kunsthistorisches Museum, exhibits rare items collected by the Habsburgs during their multi-century reign. Amongst these items are invaluable jewels; the imperial crown of Austria; regalia that once belonged to the emperors and kings of the Holy Roman Empire, including an amazing arched crown; coronation robes; christening sets, devotional images, altars, and more.

    No need for many words. The images will reflect the grandeur of the items on display at the Imperial Treasury.
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  • Vienna: Another Meander Around the City

    12 października 2024, Austria ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    As we did yesterday, we wrapped up our day with a meander around the city … some of it before the visit to the Imperial Treasury, and some of it afterward … some of it just a photo-op … some of it a bit more than that.

    We were on our way back from lunch, when we spotted a sign proclaiming a square along our route as “Helmut-Zilk-Platz.” We had to make a quick stop to take a photo to send to Thomas and Geraldine, whom we met on our world cruise last year. You see, Helmut — who was the mayor of Vienna from 1984 to 1994 - was Thomas’s father. Our one-photo-stop quickly turned into a longer one, however, when we realized that there was a memorial installed in the square.

    Alfred Hrdlicka's “Memorial Against War & Fascism” is dedicated to the victims of the same. It was installed in 1998 … when Zilk-Platz was still known as Albertinaplatz. I later read that the memorial was an initiative of Mayor Zilk … hence the renaming of the plaza in 2009 to honor him. Google translated the plaque embedded in the square as follows: “Here stood the Philipphof, a representative large residential building of the Gründerzeit, which was destroyed by a bomb attack on 12 March 1945. Hundreds of people who had sought shelter in the cellars were killed."

    The memorial is a walk-in monument … meaning that you can walk amongst the different elements — the granite "Gate of Violence"; the bronze “Street-Washing Jew” statue that can be seen between the gate pillars; the sculpture entitled “Orpheus Enters Hades;” and the “Stone of the Republic.” That some granite elements came from the quarry of the Mauthausen concentration camp makes the memorial all the more poignant.

    Another place that ended up being a longer stop on our meander was Burggarten [Castle Garden]. We were on our way home after the visit to the Imperial Treasury when we stumbled upon a map that listed the garden as a site of interest “In der Burg” [in the castle]. So, we made a detour, entering the grounds through the Heroes Square Gate.

    The garden — located behind the Neue Burg Wing of the Hofburg Complex — was created in 1818 as the private garden of the Emperor. An avid gardener himself, the emperor participated in the design of the grounds and the selection of varied plants from around the world. A century later — in 1919 — the garden was opened to the general public. Like Volksgarten yesterday, it is a UNESCO-listed world heritage site.

    We skipped the very crowded Palm House — the green house that was added in 1902 as a place for the emperor to relax — and wandered around the grounds for a bit, stopping for a photo op at the Mozart Monument. The marble statue was installed in Albertinaplatz in 1896. Damaged during the bombing of Vienna in 1945, it was restored and re-installed … this time in its present location in the Burggarten. I found the sol key — designed using pink flowers — to be a charming touch.

    After the Burggarten detour, we called it quits. Since we were closer to the Karlsplatz (SP) Station by the State Opera House, we walked there and used the U3/U6 metro combo to get ourselves home. Tonight we will be re-packing our bags for the move to the Viking Rinda tomorrow … but won’t be leaving Vienna just yet.

    By the way, I was curious to see how good a deal we got with the 7-day transportation pass we purchased on the 9th for €22.60 each. So I did some calculations. Essentially, we’ve taken 20 rides on the metro and 1 ride on the tram since arriving in Vienna. Transfers in the same direction are free within 80 minutes of the first ride, so that puts us at 12 trips. That means that we paid off our pass yesterday. Today was a freebie … and so will be any rides we take over the next three days. Darn good deal!
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