• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
  • Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun

Our Ring Around Ireland

In 2019, we realized a long-awaited road trip around parts of Ireland. Hopefully, at some point, I’ll have time to flesh out these footprints with the notes from my journal. Leggi altro
  • Inizio del viaggio
    19 giugno 2019
  • TK1977 Touches Down @ DUB

    19 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Though the flight was delayed an hour leaving IST, we made up most of that time in the air. TK1977 touched down at Dublin Airport @ 3:57p Greenwich Mean Time ... just 20 minutes late.

    Once we deplane, we’ll pick up our rental car from Dollar and head out of town. Fingers crossed the rush-hour traffic will cooperate and we will get to our first “sightseeing base” before nightfall.Leggi altro

  • Arrived in Kilkenny

    19 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    It was after 6:00p when we drove off from DUB in our Dollar car rental. It took an hour to get on the M9, but once we did, traffic was smooth sailing. Another hour found us in Kilkenny in County Kilkenny.

    We’ve checked into Fanad House, which will be our base for three nights, giving us two full days to explore Kilkenny and its environs.
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  • OPW Heritage Card

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    While we’re in Ireland, we plan to visit a number of places managed by the OPW (Office of Public Works). Most, if not all, charge admission ... which can add up to a considerable chunk of change. The good news? The OPW sells a Heritage Card that is accepted at all of their properties.

    Kilkenny Castle is one of the designated sales points for the card. So, before beginning our castle tour, we purchased our cards ... €30 each (senior rate).

    By using the card to cover the €8pp admission for the castle, we’re now left with €22 each before we break even. We don’t expect that we’ll lose any money on this deal.
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  • Touring Kilkenny Castle

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    A symbol of Norman occupation, Kilkenny Castle was built in 1195. Located at a shallow point where the River Nore could be easily forded, the castle was an important part of the city’s defenses.

    With our newly-minted OPW Heritage Cards admitting us to Kilkenny Castle, we opted to self-tour. Doing so, we were ahead of the crowds that started arriving in our wake about ½-hour later.

    Of all the rooms we toured, my favorite was the Picture Gallery. Not necessarily for the art hanging on the walls, but for the hand-painted, pitched ceiling overhead.

    As for the surprise detail that caught my eye. That was in the Library. Reading the signage describing the room, the snippet that attracted my attention was about the carpet. Turns out the pattern was adapted from İzmir motifs. İzmir ... as in my hometown in Turkey.
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  • St Mary's Cathedral

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Spotting a sign for St Mary’s Cathedral, we took a detour off the Medieval Mile to check it out.

    This cathedral, the third one to be dedicated to the mother of Jesus, is just outside the old city walls. Early English Gothic in style, it was founded in 1842 ... consecrated in 1857.

    Inside, we found lovely stained glass windows — a definite downfall of mine. I studied them in detail, but actually spent more time looking at and photographing the mosaic murals in the sanctuary. Yeah, another downfall of mine 😄
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  • Dominican Black Abbey

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    From St Mary’s Cathedral, we continued our meandering walk and ended up at the Dominican Black Abbey, which was founded in 1225. It’s history was quite tumultuous ... surviving the 1650 siege of Kilkenny by Cromwell ... serving as a courthouse after being seized by the Protestant Queen Elizabeth I ... and finally being restored to worship by the Dominicans after they regained possession in the early 19th century.

    The abbey’s name comes from the term “Black Friars” ... used to describe members of the Dominican Order. Why? Simple really ... because they wore a black cloak over their white habit.

    The two highlights for me ... the modern stained glass window and the Rosary window, which is said to be the biggest stained glass window in Ireland.
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  • Climbing the Round Tower

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    The nearly 100-foot high Round Tower at St Canice’s is only one of two in Ireland that can still be climbed. So, of course, we climbed it!

    Built in 1111, the tower is the oldest standing structure in Kilkenny. A bell tower — and a status symbol — when it was originally built, it was also used as a lookout tower and as a place to store valuables during sieges.

    We climbed the narrow circular tower, ascending a steep, ladder-like staircase. Along the way, a recording kept checking on us, asking if the climb was going OK. It explained that due to the shallow foundation — just 2-feet deep, the tower leans some 2 feet off-plumb!! The disembodied voice was quick to assure us, however, that the tower ‘should’ remain standing until we reach the top!!! Good to know. But what happens after we reach the top? 🤣

    While the narrow quarters and the steep stairs made us work for our reward, it was well worth expending the effort to see the expansive views from the top.
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  • St. Canice's ... aka Kilkenny Cathedral

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After climbing the Round Tower, located on the grounds of St Canice’s Cathedral, we used the combo admission ticket to go inside.

    The early 13th century church is in the Gothic style. It was constructed on the grounds of a Celtic Christian monastery that was founded in the 6th century by St Canice ... hence the name by which the Kilkenny Cathedral is known.

    St Canice’s is described as Ireland’s finest medieval cathedral and close. I’ll have to wait and see a few more cathedrals as we travel around Ireland before I can verify that. However, if the stained glass windows are anything to go by, that description just might be accurate.
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  • Lunch Time!

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After being a-wander for over six hours, exploring Kilkenny City, it was definitely time for a bite to eat. Odd-hour dining at an off-the-beaten-path place = no crowds. In this case, we had the Kernel Bar & Kitchen to ourselves.

    Our meal was very tasty — fish-sans-chips for Mui ... panini with chips for me. We washed it all down with a local brew ... Sullivan’s.
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  • River Nore & Kilkenny Castle

    20 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We walked off our late lunch by following the River Nore back towards the city center.

    I found the vantage point I was looking for to photograph Kilkenny Castle reflected on the river. But ripples on the water foiled my plans. So, after a few clicks of the camera, we continued our stroll along the River Nore Linear Park, adding more steps to those already accumulated during our exploration of Kilkenny City.

    From the riverside path, we found an access point up to the castle. Thus, we wrapped up today’s sightseeing the way we started it ... at Kilkenny Castle. But this time in the Rose Garden instead of the Kilkenny Castle Park.
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  • Kilkenny Castle in B&W

    21 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Though the plan is to travel further afield today, our second day in Kilkenny started with a pre-breakfast stroll.

    Our destination was the River Nore Linear Park. Along the way, I couldn’t help but stop to photograph Kilkenny Castle.

    What can I say? The temptation to get a photo from the completely deserted street was just too much to pass up.
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  • Reflections on the Nore

    21 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    Our pre-breakfast stroll from Fanad House had a very specific purpose. To capture reflection shots on the River Nore.

    It was chilly at 6:00a when we left our room. No matter ... we bundled up. The air was still. A good omen. By the time we got to the river, the sun was in the right position in the blue sky overhead.

    Yup ... I got my reflection shots!

    A great beginning to our day.
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  • Kells Priory

    21 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    First stop on today’s drive: Kells Priory, described by Lonely Planet as one of Ireland’s most “impressive and romantic ruins.”

    Founded in 1193, this Augustinian priory is situated along King’s River. The surrounding curtain wall and the medieval tower houses, which have earned the priory the nickname of “Seven Castles,” made us feel like we were visiting a fortress instead of a place of worship.

    Its rural setting, with lush green meadows in every direction, added to the charm of the site. Sunshine, blue skies with puffy clouds, peaceful quiet, having the place to ourselves. What more could we ask for? Nothing!
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  • Kilree Monastic Site

    21 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    There’s nothing left from what was once a 6th century monastic site. So, why go there? Because there are other things to see. Namely, a 9th century round tower and a high cross.

    To get to both these sites, we had to climb over a wall; walk across a field where a sign advised us of the presence of a bull ... we didn’t see one; go through a graveyard amongst the ruins of the 10th century Church of the King ... which is what Killree means in Gaelic; and then walk across another field.

    Why go to all this effort? Because the high cross in the field is thought to mark the grave of King Niall, who drowned while trying to save a servant. The river, along which Kells Priory is situated, was later named King’s River in his honor.

    By the way, the servant survived the dunking thanks to the king’s efforts.
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  • Jerpoint Abbey

    21 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Jerpoint Abbey, located in Thomastown, is a 12th century Cistercian abbey ... to which a cloister and tower were added during the 15th century. Perhaps its most renowned feature is the sculptures found throughout.

    The guided tour was already in progress, so we opted to explore on our own. Doing so had the added advantage of allowing us to maintain our own pace as we walked along the cloister arcade, stopping frequently to study some of the sculptures that caught our eye.
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  • Lunch Time!

    21 giugno 2019, Irlanda ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Our lunch stop today was in a town with the not-easy-to-pronounce name of Graiguenamanagh. Even the locals opt to simply call it Graigue.

    Instead of dining at the ever-popular Duiske Inn, we went to the Waterside Inn. Located in a converted grain store, the inn overlooks the River Barrow. The view was delightful. It wasn’t until we got back to the hotel, however, that I realized that we were looking across the water to County Carlow.

    Despite the clouds overhead, the sun put in frequent appearances, making it comfy enough to sit outdoors. Mui special ordered a salad with smoked salmon. I had the chicken and mushroom vol-au-vent. Both dishes were very good.

    Our second meal in Ireland— in what seemed like an off-the-beaten path location — proved quite satisfactory.
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