Jun – Jul 2019

Our Ring Around Ireland

In 2019, we realized a long-awaited road trip around parts of Ireland. Hopefully, at some point, I’ll have time to flesh out these footprints with the notes from my journal. Read more

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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 6
- Monday, June 24, 2019 at 12:00 PM
- ⛅ 61 °F
- Altitude: 407 ft
- Ireland Glan Lough 51.804977, -10.01534751°48’18” N 10°0’55” W
Off the Ring of Kerry: Staigue Fort
June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
A short detour off the Ring of Kerry took us to an old fort that I had read about when I was researching our trip — the Staigue Stone Fort.

The fort is described as being “… one of the largest and finest stone forts in Ireland.” Thought to have been the home of a wealthy landowner or chieftain, it is believed to date back to sometime between the 3rd and 4th centuries … before Christianity came to Ireland. The circular wall is nearly 20 feet high and over 13 feet thick. Built without the use of mortar, it encloses an area that is nearly 100 feet in diameter. None of the structures that would have been within the walls have survived.

Considering its off-the-beaten-path location, I was surprised at the number of people at the fort. Not that it was really crowded inside … maybe 10-12 people all told. I climbed up the unique steps — built into the inside of the defensive wall — that are a feature of these forts. I was hoping to get a partial panorama of the port without the other visitors. It wasn’t to be. The bonus of the climb? I managed a panorama of the scenery.

This fort, thoroughly different from what we’ve seen in Ireland thus far, was a highlight of our day ... even if the weather did not cooperate with blue skies and sunshine.Read more
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 6
- Monday, June 24, 2019 at 2:00 PM
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 23 ft
- Ireland Foughil Island 51.948849, -10.25859951°56’56” N 10°15’31” W
RofK: Ballycarbery Castle to Killorglin
June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
From the Staigue Stone Fort, we retraced our way back to the Ring of Kerry. By this time, the sun was hiding behind the clouds more than seeking a way out.

Continuing on our way, we made another short detour to the “atmospheric ruins of Ballycarbery Castle” — as our Lonely Planet guidebook described them.

Though there’s been a residence of one kind or another at this site since the 13th century, the ruins of the tower house we saw date back to the mid-16th century. I was disappointed to see that visitors are no longer allowed to wander the ruins or the grounds ... especially because the especially atmospheric side is on the side exposed to the Atlantic.

We considered walking down to a cove on the River Ferda Estuary for another vantage point, but not only was the ground soggy and the mud sticky, there was no easy path. So, we gave up, took our photos, and got back on the road.

When we came to one of the few pullouts along the ring road, we pulled over to sit on the stone wall and enjoy the views of the Atlantic. Had we any snacks with us, this would have been a good spot for an al fresco lunch. Alas, we didn’t. So onward we drove towards Killorglin.Read more
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 6
- Monday, June 24, 2019 at 4:00 PM
- ⛅ 66 °F
- Altitude: 33 ft
- Ireland Killorglin 52.106212, -9.7849452°6’22” N 9°47’6” W
Ring of Kerry: Lunch Time!
June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F
When our plans to find a place to buy some yogurt and snacks along the way fell through, we went to Plan B. Surely, we’d find a place to eat in Killorglin.

We did, but with the streets deserted, we ended up relying on our guidebook to find a restaurant instead of asking a local for a recommendation.

As it was after 3:00p, The Bianconi was quiet. Just a table or two ... and a couple of people seated at the bar. The guidebook recommended it as one of the best places to get food on the Ring of Kerry. It did not disappoint.

Mui ordered the Surprise Salad ... which turned out to be a ginormous sampling of smoked salmon, chicken, deli meats, potato salad and more ... with very little in the way of greens. I ordered the BLT, made with Irish bacon. We split the two dishes for a filling meal.

By the time we left the restaurant, the sun had gone into permanent hiding. So, we decided to just head back to the B&B and take it easy for the rest of the day. Not a bad thing to do as we’ll be moving to our next “base” tomorrow.Read more
TravelerWow, look at the food!
11/27/20Reply
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- Day 6
- Monday, June 24, 2019 at 9:00 PM
- ⛅ 61 °F
- Altitude: 79 ft
- Ireland Killarney 52.055479, -9.50480552°3’20” N 9°30’17” W
Day 6: Image Gallery
June 24, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
Photos from today are at this link:
https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/Ireland/Irela…
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 7:00 AM
- ⛅ 54 °F
- Altitude: 79 ft
- Ireland Killarney 52.055477, -9.50480552°3’20” N 9°30’17” W
Day 7: Killarney to Dingle
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F
Delightful weather ... delightful drive with beautiful scenery ... delightful sightseeing en route. That describes our moving day from Killarney to our next base in Dingle.
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 11:00 AM
- ☁️ 64 °F
- Altitude: 26 ft
- Ireland Inch 52.142288, -9.98136652°8’32” N 9°58’53” W
A Stroll on Inch Strand
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
After bidding our hostess at Emerville House “slán” — which means safe, but is essentially used to say farewell — we began the 42-mile drive from Killarney to Dingle.

The first part of the drive was familiar from yesterday ... and just as uninteresting as it was then. But, as promised by the guidebook, the scenery improved once we made the turn onto the Dingle Peninsula.

Seeing the sign for Inch Strand [beach], we stopped for a stroll on what is said to be one of the best “Blue flag” beaches in Ireland. Guidebooks also describe it as having one of the finest, intact dune systems in the country.

Mist veiled the mountains and hills, but the long length of the beach was very inviting. At low tide, the sand was packed hard, making it easy to walk along the water’s edge where the surf gently rolled ashore. That the sun came out while we were still on the beach was an added delight.Read more
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 12:30 PM
- ⛅ 64 °F
- Altitude: 79 ft
- Ireland Anascaul 52.151352, -10.05657852°9’5” N 10°3’24” W
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Annascaul: Tom Crean’s Hometown
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F
From Inch Strand, we briefly got back on R651 before taking a short detour to the village of Annascaul.

In my Kenmare footprint yesterday, I mentioned the name of an Antarctic explorer of the Heroic Age — Tom Crean. Born at a farm near Annascaul, Crean returned to live out the rest of his life in this village after he retired from life at sea.

Our visit to Annascaul had a couple of goals. (1) Find the South Pole Inn, which Crean opened in the early 20th century after he settled here. (2) visit the memorial park where there is a statue of him in one of his iconic poses from the Endurance Expedition ... with husky puppies gathered in his arms. (3) Hike/stroll to the Ballynacourty Cemetery ... to stretch our legs and also to pay our respects at Crean’s grave. (4) Have lunch ... preferably at the South Pole Inn.

I’m happy to say that we achieved all of our goals!Read more
TravelerAlways good to achieve all your goals!
11/27/20Reply
Traveler Colorful!
11/27/20Reply
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 1:30 PM
- ⛅ 64 °F
- Altitude: 79 ft
- Ireland Anascaul 52.151402, -10.056652°9’5” N 10°3’24” W
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Lunch Time!
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F
I already mentioned in the previous footprint that our timing was just right to have lunch at Tom Crean’s South Pole Inn ... even if the place is no longer associated with the Crean family.

From the pub menu, we both ordered the delicious fish and chips ... which was made with hake. A pint of Guinness´s Rockshore Irish lager was the perfect accompaniment to our food.

As good as the food was, I especially enjoyed the ambiance with memorabilia from Crean’s Antarctic expeditions decorating the walls.Read more
Sonia Gelman What a lovely couple!
11/25/20Reply
Two to Travel😍
11/25/20Reply
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 2:30 PM
- ⛅ 63 °F
- Altitude: 46 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.142776, -10.2863752°8’34” N 10°17’11” W
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Tower View B&B
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F
It was around 2:30p when we arrived at our base in Dingle. The Tower View B&B is away from the hubbub of Dingle Town, but within a short walk of downtown ... a perfect location for us.

Helen greeted us warmly, introducing us to her mom, who is helping out while Helen cares for her three-week old baby daughter.

After marking up a sightseeing map, she escorted us to our spacious room on the first floor [second floor here in the US] ... the best one of the rooms we’ve stayed in since we began our trip a week ago. Wow! Time sure is flying!

We have a lovely view of Dingle Bay, with the “tower” mentioned in the B&B’s name sitting atop a hill on the far side. The farm across the road adds charm to the scenery.

The sunny day was just too wonderful to waste indoors, so after settling in, we went off to explore Dingle Town.Read more
Sonia Gelman That a lot of beds for two people
11/25/20Reply
Two to TravelComes with the extra space 😁
11/25/20Reply
Sonia Gelman Very nice B&B
11/25/20Reply
Traveler Nice digs!
11/27/20Reply
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 5:00 PM
- 🌧 50 °F
- Altitude: 52 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.139904, -10.27829952°8’24” N 10°16’42” W
Dingle’s Oceanworld Aquarium
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 50 °F
A pleasant walk along the waterfront brought us to the aquarium on the outskirts of downtown Dingle.

At first, we had no plans to go in. But checking it out on the internet, we saw that the place was promoted as Ireland’s largest such facility. So we decided to check it out. Besides, who can resist a Gentoo penguin feeding!

We were pleased with the wide variety of sea creatures in the tanks. That we didn’t have to deal with crowds, or sticky fingerprints on the tanks, made the visit all the better.Read more
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 6:30 PM
- ☁️ 63 °F
- Altitude: 23 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.139229, -10.27464452°8’21” N 10°16’29” W
A Stroll Around Dingle Town
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
From the aquarium, we continued our stroll into town, delighting in the beautiful weather.

The best part of our walk? The tour buses had all departed so there were no crowds to deal with as we wandered around.

We wrapped up our outing with a bit of shopping ... at SuperValu for a light snack in lieu of dinner at the B&B ... at Murphy’s for ice cream ... at one more place that I will write about in the next footprint.Read more
TravelerGorgeous flower box.
11/27/20Reply
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 7:00 PM
- ☁️ 63 °F
- Altitude: 26 ft
- Ireland Dingle 52.138756, -10.27053152°8’20” N 10°16’14” W
Buying a Souvenir
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F
We rarely shop for souvenirs when we are traveling. And when we do, it’s for something we can use instead of knick-knacks.

When we shortened our Ireland road trip to fit it into the time we have available, the Aran Islands went by the wayside.

So, today we picked up some Aran knit woolens as our souvenir from this trip. There was no shortage of shops selling these goods, but we found a place on a back street. More selections ... better prices ... guaranteed original Aran knits from the islands.

Living in Colorado, we will have a lot of opportunities to wear our Aran sweaters.Read more
TravelerGood choice! Very nice!
11/27/20Reply
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 7
- Tuesday, June 25, 2019 at 8:00 PM
- ⛅ 61 °F
- Altitude: 46 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.142777, -10.2863752°8’34” N 10°17’11” W
Day 7: Image Gallery
June 25, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
Photos from today are at this link:
https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/Ireland/Irela…
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 7:00 AM
- ⛅ 59 °F
- Altitude: 46 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.142777, -10.2863752°8’34” N 10°17’11” W
Day 8: Ring of Dingle
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F
The drive we did from our base in Dingle today is actually known as the West End Peninsula Drive or the Slea Head Drive. I’ve christened the roughly circular route “The Ring of Dingle.”

With delightful scenery visible most of the way and frequent pull-outs for photo ops, this drive beats the Ring of Kerry hands down ... IMHO.

Guidebooks indicate that the drive can be done in two hours. Even with the detours we made it was just 30 miles or so. But par for the course, we pretty much took all day. Hey, what’s the hurry, right?Read more
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 10:00 AM
- ☀️ 59 °F
- Altitude: 49 ft
- Ireland Kilvickadownig 52.103296, -10.40851652°6’12” N 10°24’31” W
Dunbeg Fort
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
Our first stop on the West End Peninsula Drive (aka Slea Head Drive) — or, as we christened it, the Ring of Dingle, did not turn out quite as expected.

I’d read that Dunbeg Fort — which is an example of a promontory fort — sits at a spot with dramatic scenery. That part was true. And the video documenting the history of the City of Fahan where the first settlers were nomadic hunters and gatherers was interesting. As was the information about the building of the fort that dates back to 8th-9th century.

What was disappointing was that the ruins were behind a fence and visitors cannot explore them ... nor easily see the dramatic scenery.

This one falls into the “you win some, you lose some” category.Read more
TravelerWell, phooey
11/27/20Reply
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 10:45 AM
- ☀️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 256 ft
- Ireland Kilvickadownig 52.105408, -10.41207952°6’19” N 10°24’43” W
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Slea Head Famine Cottages
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F
Just up the road from Dunbeg Fort is the Slea Head Famine Cottages. Since famines — especially the Great Potato Famine — have played such an important role in Irish history, we decided to stop to check out the place.

The buildings here date back to the 1840s when they were built by the local landlord, the Earl of Cork. The signage explained that the farmer who lived in the main cottage allowed peasants who were evicted from their own homes during the Great Famine to live in some of the shacks ... hovels really.

Cottages like these at one time were found all around Ireland. Many, however, have fallen into disrepair and crumbled down, making the ones here amongst the few that remain.

Reading the stories of the people who lived in these buildings was heartbreaking. It was a sad place to visit. The only bright spot of our visit were the farm animals in the corral.Read more
Sonia Gelman She is beautiful!
11/27/20Reply
TravelerScenes like these are always heartbreaking, no matter where it is.
11/27/20Reply
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 11:30 AM
- ☀️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 141 ft
- Ireland Beenacouma 52.107803, -10.45603852°6’28” N 10°27’22” W
Along the Dingle Way
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F
From the Famine Cottages, we continued our drive along the “Dingle Way.”

This section of the road before Dunmore Head was particularly scenic, with pull-outs along the way providing a safe way to enjoy the seascape and the high cliffs. En route, we even found the ruins of a farm that enticed us to wander around and explore them.Read more
TravelerI'm just incredulous at Emerald Isle's overall green.
12/6/20Reply
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 12:00 PM
- ☀️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 33 ft
- Ireland Coumeenoole Bay 52.109589, -10.46411352°6’35” N 10°27’51” W
Coumeenoole Beach
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F
Our plan for Dunmore Head was to simply hike down to the beach that carries the same name as the bay it fronts.

That plan would later change, but first we enjoyed a stroll along the crescent-shaped beach tucked into a cove at the head of the bay.Read more
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 1:00 PM
- ☀️ 63 °F
- Altitude: 118 ft
- Ireland Dunmore Head 52.109947, -10.47755352°6’36” N 10°28’39” W
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Dunmore Head ... Star Wars Last Jedi
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F
Of all our stops along the West End Peninsula Drive, the one that enchanted us the most was Dunmore Head. Not because parts of the “Star Wars Last Jedi” movie were filmed here. In fact, we’ve yet to see any of the Star Wars movies. Rather, we loved this stop because the scenery was so spectacular.

Hiking to Dunmore Head was not part of our plans originally, but since we were doing well time-wise, it made sense to do so. But first, we had to make our way up from Coumeenoole Beach to get to the trailhead.

The trail to the headland runs through private lands accessed by climbing over a stone fence. It was a fairly steep uphill path all the way to the tip ... very much worth it.Read more
Traveler Lovely!
12/6/20Reply
TravelerI certainly wouldn't be in that cold water!
12/6/20Reply
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 2:00 PM
- ☀️ 64 °F
- Altitude: 108 ft
- Ireland Gallarus 52.172707, -10.34934652°10’22” N 10°20’58” W
Gallarus Oratory
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
A detour off the main road took us to the Gallarus Oratory, which was constructed by early Christians over 1300 years ago.

The church has an interesting architectural style, with the roof formed by raising the walls at an angle to meet at a peak in the center. This is the same construction method that was used at the Neolithic tomb at Newgrange.

One of the amazing things about the building is that its dry rubble masonry construction is still waterproof after all these years of being battered by the elements.Read more
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 4:00 PM
- ☀️ 66 °F
- Altitude: 13 ft
- Ireland Ballynagall 52.190605, -10.37583352°11’26” N 10°22’33” W
Lunch Time!
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
It was 2:00p by the time we left the Gallarus Oratory. Time for food!

Seeing billboards for a seaside restaurant, we went looking for it. Turns out that Tigh T.P. (T.P.’s House) is located where R549 dead-ends at a beach overlooking Smerwick Harbor. Perfect for “lunch with a view.”

From the chalkboard menu I opted for pasta with prawns — delicious. Mui got the haddock with a double order of salad. Turns out it was fish and chips ... sans the chips — also delicious. A local lager washed down the tasty morsels.

It was 4:00p by the time we finished our lunch — yes, we dallied. So, we decided to take a roundabout way back home. The route wasn’t very scenic and we didn’t make any stops ... but it completed our “Ring of Dingle” outing. A great day.Read more
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 8
- Wednesday, June 26, 2019 at 8:00 PM
- ⛅ 64 °F
- Altitude: 154 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.142777, -10.2863752°8’34” N 10°17’11” W
Day 8: Image Gallery
June 26, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F
Photos from today are at this link:
https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/Ireland/Irela…
Traveleran amazing gallery!!
11/28/20Reply
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Our Ring Around Ireland
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- Day 9
- Thursday, June 27, 2019 at 8:00 AM
- ⛅ 59 °F
- Altitude: 46 ft
- Ireland Milltown River 52.142776, -10.2863752°8’34” N 10°17’11” W
Day 9: Dingle to Doolin
June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F
Our day started with beautiful stained glass windows in Dingle and ended — 140 miles later — with beautiful scenery @ the Cliffs of Moher.
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- Day 9
- Thursday, June 27, 2019 at 9:30 AM
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 46 ft
- Ireland Dingle 52.141621, -10.27099452°8’30” N 10°16’16” W
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St Mary’s Church
June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
We stopped @ St Mary’s Church before leaving Dingle to see some stained glass windows ... but not the ones in the church itself. I suppose the photos I took at St Mary’s can be considered a “bonus” of sorts.Read more
Sonia Gelman Love this picture!
11/30/20Reply
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- Day 9
- Thursday, June 27, 2019 at 9:40 AM
- ☁️ 61 °F
- Altitude: 56 ft
- Ireland Dingle 52.142059, -10.27079652°8’31” N 10°16’15” W
Dingle’s “Last Supper”
June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
The chapel in which the Harry Clarke stained glass windows are displayed is in the former convent building of the Presentation Sisters ... located on the grounds of St Mary’s Church in Dingle.

Before we got to the windows, however, we had to pass through what used to be the dining room for the nuns. It was here that we found an oversized fresco of the Last Supper.

A couple of things made this fresco — which took 8 months to complete — interesting.

First, the artist. Turns out that Eleanor Yates hails from our new home state of Colorado.

Second, Yates used the faces of Dingle locals for the apostles. The face of a French tourist was the model for Jesus. She painted Judas as a crow with two coins in its beak ... his hasty retreat from the table represented by an overturned stool.

Third, other local items also made their way into the fresco — tableware based on the craft of local artisans ... local bread and fish ... one of the Blasket Islands.

I like seeing local elements weaved into traditional images ... this one did not disappoint.Read more
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