• Two to Travel
  • Ahmet Erkun
Jun – Jul 2019

Our Ring Around Ireland

In 2019, we realized a long-awaited road trip around parts of Ireland. Hopefully, at some point, I’ll have time to flesh out these footprints with the notes from my journal. Read more
  • Harry Clarke's "The Visit of the Magi" - Díseart Chapel ... Dingle, Ireland.
    Harry Clarke's "The Baptism of Jesus" - Díseart Chapel ... Dingle, Ireland.Harry Clarke's "Let the Little Children Come to Me" - Díseart Chapel ... Dingle, Ireland.Harry Clarke's "Sermon on the Mount" - Díseart Chapel ... Dingle, Ireland.Harry Clarke's "The Agony in the Garden" - Díseart Chapel ... Dingle, Ireland.Harry Clarke's "Jesus Appears to Mary Magdalene" - Díseart Chapel ... Dingle, Ireland.

    Harry Clarke’s Stained Glass Windows

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Harry Clarke is a Dublin-born stained glass artist who was lost to the world in 1931 ... at the young age of 42. He is described as ... “Ireland’s major Symbolist Artist whether in his illustrations or in his stained glass.”

    I’d heard his name before, but didn’t recall seeing any of his art. So, when I read that there are six twin lancet windows that he designed in a chapel in Dingle, we made a point of checking them out before leaving town.

    The Díseart Chapel — or more appropriately, the Chapel of the Sacred Heart — is on the third floor of the former Convent of the Presentation Sisters. The docent who admitted us to the building, warned us that the stained glass in the sanctuary was mass-produced in Germany and that we would immediately notice the difference once we saw the Harry Clarke windows above the choir stalls.

    She was right. I was so enthralled with the Clarke windows that I didn’t even take any photos of the ones in the apse. Not sure how to describe these amazing works of art ... faces more animated with large, expressive eyes ... exquisite and fine detail work ... more organic somehow ... definitely more artisanal with rich colors that catch the light.

    The Mother Superior who commissioned the 12 windows that illustrate the life of Christ from his birth to his resurrection, shelled out £1,000 back then. A princely sum in 1922, I’m sure. Now these windows are priceless.
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  • Nano Nagle as the "Lady of the Lantern" — former Convent of the Presentation Sisters, Dingle.
    Nano Nagle teaching the kids of the needy — former Convent of the Presentation Sisters, Dingle.Nano Nagle ... the daughter of a landed family — former Convent of the Presentation Sisters.

    The Lady of the Lantern

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Before we left the Díseart Chapel, I found another series of murals ... also painted by Eleanor Yates, the artist from Denver, Colorado who painted the “Last Supper” in the nuns’ dining room at the former Convent of the Presentation Sisters.

    This series was painted in what would have been the community room of the sisters. Today, the room is used as a music/presentation room. I was disappointed that the equipment sitting against the walls detracted from the paintings, but it is what it is.

    The subject of the murals was Nano Nagle — the founder of the Sisters of Presentation in Ireland. The daughter of landed Irish gentry, she dedicated herself to the education of the kids of poor families. Going from hovel to hovel, she searched out these kids, earning herself the nickname of “The Lady of the Lantern.”
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  • Looking across the valley @ Conor Pass - Ireland.
    View across the valley to Brandon Bay — Ireland.One of the narrow sections of the road through Conor Pass — Ireland.

    Conor Pass

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Leaving Dingle, we headed to Conor Pass, using it as a short cut for today’s drive. The 7.5-mile road runs over the Brandons, Ireland’s highest mountains ... at 1,500 feet. The road is narrow and curvy ... at times just wide enough for one vehicle. We were lucky and didn’t encounter any other vehicles in those sections.

    The road through Conor Pass is described as being very scenic, with views of Brandon Bay and more ... across a lushly green once-glaciated valley dotted with “loughs” [lakes]. On a clear day, you can apparently see all the way out to the Aran Islands. That wasn’t the case for us today as much of the distant scenery was veiled by a mist that wasn’t making any effort to lift. We enjoyed the views nonetheless.

    Had we built in another day for our stay in Dingle, it would have been great to hike in this area.
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  • Lunch @ Aunty Lena's — Adare, Ireland.

    Lunch Time!

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    The route we selected for our move today took us through the Village of Adare, where we hoped to visit some ruins ... possibly tour a castle ... and have lunch.

    Food first. After parking the car, we stopped at the Info Center and asked for a recommendation for lunch. We were given several options for pub grub ... all sounded good. What determined our final decision ... seating availability. Adare was hopping today!

    The food at Aunty Lena’s was delicious ... though the portions were a little bigger than we expected. The Beef & Guinness Casserole I ordered was essentially a stew topped with mashed potatoes and served with buttered vegetables. Mui got the “Goodness Bowl,” which included greens, as well as tasty tidbits of quinoa and falafel. He asked that it be topped with a fillet of salmon to increase the protein.

    I broke down and finally ordered a Guinness. I don’t care for dark-colored beers, but I figured I couldn’t visit Ireland and not taste it ... a bit malty with a molasses back note. I’ll stick to Rockshore, in the future ... also brewed by Guinness.
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  • These thatched cottages survived the fire of 2015 — Adare, Ireland.
    The Triniterian Abbey ... on the grounds of the former monastery — Adare, Ireland.Colorful landscaping on the grounds of the Dunraven Arms — Adare, Ireland.A colorful flower basket adds cheer — Adare, Ireland.The cloister garden at the once-Augustinian Friary — Church of St Nicholas ... Adare, Ireland.Stained glass window @ the Church of St Nicholas — Adare, Ireland.Stained glass window @ the Church of St Nicholas — Adare, Ireland.The ruins of Desmond Castle along the River Maigue — Adare, Ireland.

    Sightseeing in Adare

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    After a filling and tasty lunch, we set out to explore Adare for a bit.

    When I picked Adare as the waypoint for today’s drive, it was because I wanted to see the thatched cottages in the village. Turns out that two of the cottages, built on the orders of the Countess of Dunraven, burned down in 2015 and the others house restaurants and shops. They weren’t the charming cottages I’d been envisioning. Oh well.

    I was also hoping to check out the ruins of a couple of monasteries. Turns out that in place of two of the ruins there are churches now — the Trinitarian Abbey, where the monastery by the same name once stood, and the Church of St Nicholas, built on the grounds of the Augustinian Friary. Both churches have beautiful stained glass windows, so at least we had a chance to see them.

    The third ruins — those of the Franciscan Friary — are indeed ruins, but they are only accessible from the grounds of Adare Manor … not open to the public, but can be seen on a tour. Since we had some exciting plans for later in the day, we didn’t have time for a tour unfortunately.

    But I at least got a shot of Desmond Castle reflected on the River Maigue before we left Adare ... even if it met taking my life in my hands to do so!
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  • Ennistymon’s Old Cemetery

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Leaving Adare, we had no other planned stops on our way to Doolin. Nonetheless, we ended up taking a quick break in Ennistymon when I spotted ivy-clad ruins in what looked like a field of crosses.

    Sitting atop Church Hill, the photogenic ruins were of the old St Andrew’s Church. A Protestant church built in 1778, it apparently fell into ruin when a new church was built in town.
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  • Atlantic View B&B

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We arrived at the Atlantic View B&B just before 5:00p. It is located on the outskirts of Doolin, in County Clare.

    Our ground floor room — #9 — is plenty spacious with a recently renovated en suite. We have all the amenities we could ask for ... except perhaps a luggage rack on which to place our suitcase.

    Because we are on the ground floor, we see just a sliver of the Atlantic Ocean and the Cliffs of Moher from the picture window. For that reason, Eileen, the proprietress, said she’s reserved us a table-with-a-better-view in the breakfast room.
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  • Sculpture by Shane Gilmore welcomes visitors to the Cliffs of Moher — Ireland.
    The Cliffs of Moher Experience Visitor Center is built to blend in with its surroundings — Ireland.Our first glimpse of the Cliffs of Moher with Hag's Head in the far distance — Ireland.A "we are here" selfie @ the Cliffs of Moher — Ireland.O'Brien's Tower (1835), built to enhance visitors' experience @ the Cliffs of Moher.O'Brien's Tower and a sea stack from the south path — Cliffs of Moher, Ireland.From the south path — Cliffs of Moher, Ireland.From the south path — Cliffs of Moher, Ireland.A "we are here" photo op from the south path — Cliffs of Moher, Ireland.We come across Doonagore Castle in Ballycullaun on our way back from the Cliffs of Moher — Ireland.

    The Cliffs of Moher

    June 27, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Once we were settled into our room @ the Atlantic View B&B in Doolin, we decided to take advantage of the delightful day to visit the Cliffs of Moher ... just a 10-minute drive from the guest house.

    Yes, it was already 6:00p, but the days are long in Ireland this time of the year. Plus, we were hoping that at that hour the tour busses would be gone ... as would most of the independent visitors. We were not disappointed. I’d be surprised if there were more than 20-30 people viewing the Cliffs and hiking the paths while we were there.

    After checking out the exhibits at the Visitor Center, we headed off to see the Cliffs. The rays of the sun lit the face of the Cliffs, allowing us to see details that would have been hidden otherwise. Walking north first, we went to O’Brien’s Tower, which was built in 1835 as a lookout for visitors to enjoy the views. Alas, the tower is under restoration, so we didn’t get to climb up to the observation terrace.

    Instead of continuing past the tower, we retraced our steps and headed south. The paved path eventually gave way to a dirt path that hugged the top of the cliffs. The barrier wall designed to keep visitors away from the edge disappeared as well. With nothing to stop us from tumbling down the 700-feet+ tall Cliffs, we stayed safely on the path.

    We stopped frequently for photo ops ... sitting on boulders on and off to enjoy the scenery ... and the solitude. I’d resigned myself to visiting the Cliffs of Moher with people crawling all over the place, so it was especially nice to have it mostly all to ourselves.

    We would like to have stayed to enjoy sunset here, but that wasn’t set to happen until after 10:00p ... too late for us after a long day of driving.
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  • Postcard shot of Ennis Friary ... L to R: chapel, tower, and chancel — Ennis, Ireland.
    15th century carving of St Francis of Assisi @ the Ennis Friary — Ennis, Ireland.Ecce Homo (Man of Sorrows) carving @ the Ennis Friary — Ennis, Ireland.Ruins of the chancel ... the oldest section of the Ennis Friary that still stands — Ennis, Ireland.Replica of the MacMahon/Creagh Tomb @ the Ennis Friary — Ennis, Ireland.The original MacMahon/Creagh Tomb is in the exhibit hall @ the Ennis Friary — Ennis, Ireland.The original panels of the MacMahon/Creagh Tomb @ the Ennis Friary — Ennis, Ireland.The Entombment panel from the MacMahon/Creagh Tomb @ the Ennis Fruary — Ennis, Ireland.

    Ennis Friary

    June 28, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    We started off our day by backtracking to Ennis, about 40 minutes from Doolin, to check out the photogenic ruins of the Ennis Friary.

    Founded by the Franciscans in the 13th century, the friary was built on an island where the River Fergus divided. Today, the island is incorporated into the streets of Ennis. Of the original structure, only the choir at the east end of the church survives.

    The €4pp admission, which was covered by the Heritage Card, gave us access not only to the ruins but to the exhibit hall set up in what was once the nave of the church.
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  • The Centurial Sphere marks the 100th anniversary of the Easter 1916 uprising — Ennis, Ireland.
    The text on the Centurial Sphere is from songs about County Clare and its cultural heritage — Ennis.Mural in Ennis, Ireland.

    A-wander in Ennis

    June 28, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    As is the case in most big cities, finding parking in Ennis was a challenge. We eventually found a car park and paid for two hours. When we left the Ennis Friary, we still had about 45 minutes left, so off we went for a stroll around town.

    We checked out the free “Clare Museum,” where nothing much caught our interest. But our walk along the banks of the River Fergus took us to a corner where a sphere captured our attention. Known as the “Centurial Sphere” this piece of art marks the 100th anniversary of the Easter 1916 uprising. The text carved into the galvanized steel sphere is apparently from songs about County Clare and its cultural heritage.
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  • Mural painted in the window of a pub — Kilfenora, Ireland.
    Mural representing the karst landscape of the Burren — @ the Burren Centre ... Kilfenora, Ireland.

    Lunch Time!

    June 28, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our destination as we left Ennis was the Burren National Park. But the GPS wasn’t pointing us in the right direction. So, we programmed the village of Kilfenora into the GPS instead.

    This small village is home to the Burren Centre, which served us well. Not only did we get directions to the park, but the tea house at the facility served as a lunch stop.

    The menu was limited, but we both found something to order ... even if what we were served was not what we expected. The egg and mayonnaise dish I ordered after the cashier explained that it was chopped eggs, thus making me think I’d be getting an egg salad sandwich, turned out to be halved eggs with a side of coleslaw. Mui’s smoked salmon salad turned out to be rolls of smoked salmon with a side of potato salad. No matter, the food was tasty. The scone that was served with clotted cream and jam made for a delicious dessert.

    I apparently took no photos of the food ... so how about a mural or two instead!
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  • Carran Church Ruins

    June 28, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Despite the map provided to us at the Burren Centre in Kilfenora, we still had difficulty finding the “entrance” to the Burren National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that protects Ireland’s unique karst landscape. That we were driving instead of hiking may have been part of our problem since there is no vehicle access within the park.

    Oh well. Instead, we decided to take a rural road that looked like it cut through some karst landscape. The bonus? We knew this route would take us to another interesting spot.

    I’m not sure what it is about ruins that I find so photogenic. It doesn’t matter what kind of ruins they are ... castle, farm, manor house, church, or city. It doesn’t matter how old they are. I just have to take a couple of photographs.

    And that’s how we came to stop at the ruins of the Carran Church.

    There’s not much left of the church that served the largest parish in the Burren between the 13th and 16th centuries. To get to the ruins, we had to park along the road, climb over a stone wall, and walk along a long path with overgrown grass. We didn’t dally long as there wasn’t much to see, but for a “ruins lover” it was worth the short trek.
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  • The over 5,000-year old Poulnabrone dolmen is a portal tomb — the Burren, Ireland.
    The stone slab on the left is the original capstone of the Poulnabrone dolmen — the Burren, Ireland.Looking through the portal stones ... I'm standing behind the sill stone — Poulnabrone Dolmen.The grikes and clints of the karst landscape at the Poulnabrone Dolmen — the Burren, Ireland.Another perspective of the grikes and clints of the karst landscape @ the dolmen — the Burren.Panoramic view of the karst landscape at the Poulnabrone Dolmen — the Burren, Ireland.A closer glimpse of the grikes and clints @ the Poulnabrone Dolmen — the Burren, Ireland.A "Mui is here, too" photo op @ the Poulnabrone Dolmen — the Burren, Ireland.Wildflowers on carboniferous limestone boulders @ the Dolmen — the Burren, Ireland.Wild thyme grows amongst the grikes of the karst landscape — the Burren, Ireland.

    A Megalithic Dolmen

    June 28, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Continuing up R480 after our stop @ the Carran Church ruins, we found ourselves driving through land that was inhabited as far back as the New Stone Age ... if not beyond. The people who farmed on the plateau back then lived in impermanent houses. The tombs they built, however, were quite substantial. A number of them have survived to this day as markers for sacred places. The Poulnabrone Dolmen is one of them.

    This megalithic portal tomb, which dates back over 5,000 years, is considered a Burren geo site. It sits on a limestone karst plateau and is one of two such tombs in the Burren. Its name means “hollow of the millstone.”

    The tomb consists of two tall portal stones with a capstone. The entrance leads to a stone-lined rectangular chamber (closed to visitors). A low, oval-shaped cairn of loose stones stabilizes the structure.

    When the fractured capstone of this dolmen had to be replaced in the late 1980s, the tomb was excavated to reveal the remains of 33 individuals — from infants to adults — and the personal possessions with which they were buried.

    As fascinating as the tomb was, the landscape in which it sits is perhaps more so. The ground is covered with patches of grikes (ditches) and clints (blocks separating the grikes). These are classic elements of the karst landscape for which the Burren is known. It was fun to wander around in this landscape, hopping from block to block ... seeking out and finding colorful flowers, especially wild thyme, which grows in abundance.
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  • Limestone, Erratics, & Stone Fences

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Leaving the B&B in Doolin, we made a wrong turn and found ourselves on the coastal road — R477 — heading north. It was a more scenic route, so we didn’t mind.

    This small mistake worked in our favor as we again got to drive through the section of the Burren where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. When we drove this road yesterday, the scenery was all washed out by the glare of the sun. The light was perfect today.

    Not only did we get to enjoy the vast karst landscape juxtaposed against the blue of the ocean, but we got a better look at the erratics left behind by the ice sheet that once covered the land before receding and melting away some 15,000 years ago. As well, we got to see the stone walls built out of rocks cut out of the Burren.
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  • Shanmuckinish Castle

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Once we reached Ballyvaughan, we connected to N67, following the road signs towards Galway.

    It wasn’t long before we stopped for a photo op. What had caught my attention was a tower house that looked largely intact. It was set against the backdrop of Pouldoody Bay, an arm of the Atlantic Ocean. Even with the bay at low tide, the scenery was photogenic.

    Turns out the tower house — which I later learned was named Shanmuckinish Castle — was far from intact. In fact, little remained except for the land-facing side, making us wonder how it remained upright!
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  • Dunguaire Castle in Kinvara

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Another photogenic castle — Dunguaire — was our next stop on today’s drive. This 16th century tower house, complete with an intact bawn surrounding the grounds, has a true castle ambiance. Situated atop a rocky outcrop on Galway Bay it called out to be photographed.

    The castle’s location right off N67 makes it a popular stop. Seeing the number of people buying tickets for the tour of the tower house, we decided to skip it. Instead, we went up the steps near the front entrance and walked the path that circumnavigates the bawn, enjoying views of the bay and the village of Kinvara.

    Since it was such a lovely day, we backtracked a bit from the castle to check out the village next. The streets were quiet; the pubs still closed. We spoke with a few locals, took in the views along the harbor, and enjoyed the colorful flowers before getting back in the car to continue our drive.
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  • Tasty food @ Brigit's Garden Café — Rosscahill, Ireland.

    Lunch Time!

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

    From Kinvara, we continued our drive by way of Galway. As we approached the big city, we decided to take a pass as neither one of us felt like dealing with the crowds or the traffic.

    While staying at the guest house in Doolin, I had come across a brochure for Brigit’s Garden in Rosscahill. Since it was on our way to Oughterard, we stopped there for a wander around the grounds.

    But first, we needed to sate our rumbling tummies. The café on site served our purpose admirably.

    Mui ordered the falafel Buddha bowl which, included hummus, pickled beets, marinated butter beans, salad leaves ... with a garlic cashew mayo dressing/dipping sauce. I opted for the butter bean stew, which was reminiscent of a bean stew popular in Turkey.
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  • Tree sculpture welcoming visitors to Brigit's Garden — Rosscahill, Ireland.
    The roundhouse sits at the intersection of the "fire festival gardens" — Brigit's Garden, RosscahillThe "Lughnasa" garden marks harvest time — Brigit's Garden in Rosscahill, Ireland."Bealtaine" represents the May Day festival — Brigit's Garden in Rosscahill, Ireland.Stone sculpture @ Brigit's Garden — Rosscahill, Ireland.Fairy Village @ Brigit's Garden — Rosscahill, Ireland.

    Brigit's Garden

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Our tummies sated at Brigit’s Garden Café, we were ready for a stroll. We paid the admission and went off to explore the grounds. In hindsight, we should have skipped the garden itself.

    There were very few blooms in evidence to add color to the landscape. Nonetheless, we wandered around the Celtic Gardens Walk which is designed in four quadrants. Each one represents one of the Celtic fire festivals ... Samhain (Halloween in October); Imbolc (St Brigit's Day in February); Bealtaine (May Day); Lughnasa (Harvest Time in August).

    Then, we followed the meandering paths through the woods and meadows stopping to check out a few things that caught our eye. I’d say our walk was more for exercise than anything else.
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  • A "we are here" photo op @ Aughnanure Castle — Oughterard, Ireland.
    Aughnanure Castle tower house and round watchtower that stood on the inner wall — Oughterard.Round watchtower @ Aughnanure Castle — Oughterard, Ireland.Narrow staircase going up to the banqueting hall @ Aughnanure Castle — Oughterard, Ireland.Murder hole thru which attackers were killed if they breached the door of the Aughnanure tower houseBanqueting hall with secret chamber to the left ... Aughnanure Castle — Oughterard, Ireland.View from the banqueting hall @ Aughnanure Castle — Oughterard, Ireland.

    Aughnanure Castle

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Just outside Oughterard, we made our last sightseeing stop of the day at Aughnanure Castle. Dating back to around 1500, the castle’s name means “the field of the yew trees.” I have no idea if the trees that surrounded the property were yews or not, but there sure were a lot of them.

    What made this castle different was the ruins of the round watchtowers ... one on the perimeter wall and another one on what would have been the inner defensive wall.

    Since we had time to spare, we wandered up into the tower house for a quick look-see. As has been the case with all of the tower houses we’ve visited so far, there was nothing much to see here, but the view from the banqueting hall made climbing the narrow, circular staircase worthwhile.
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  • Carrowntober House ... our base for the next few days — Oughterard, Ireland
    Our room @ Carrowntober House ... for the next 3 nights — Oughterard, Ireland.View from our room @ Carrowntober House — Oughterard, Ireland.

    Carrowntober House

    June 29, 2019 in Ireland ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    We found Carrowntober House — our base for three nights —on the outskirts of Oughterard. We were graciously welcomed by the proprietor who showed us to our garden-view room.

    After settling in, we walked into the village to pick up snacks for dinner. Intending to eat at one of the picnic tables at the B&B, we did not dally in the village. Turns out that was a good thing as it started sprinkling on the walk back. That light rain turned into a downpour soon after we were back in our room ... no al fresco dining tonight!Read more