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  • Three Oaxaca Afternoons

    May 26, 2022 in Mexico ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Oaxaca and environs have so much variety to offer! I enjoy such rich stimulation—especially with the very low numbers of COVID cases right now. To give you an idea of what there is to do, I highlight three afternoons for you.

    The first, Sunday May 15th, Enrique and I went to the Arts Center in the town of San Augustin, Etla. Etla is a “districto”—county—to the west of the city of Oaxaca, and San Augustin is one of many “municipios”—towns—in that county. The Arts Center is an old textile factory, now housing printing and paper making workshops, as well as two large gallery spaces. We visited the galleries first, and as admittance to the workshops wasn’t allowed, we explored the impressive plantings outside. We lunched in a family home converted to a restaurant, and for dessert we had a conversation with the grandmother about life in San Agustin.

    Two Sundays later on May 23rd, we were back in the Sierra Norte in the hamlet of El Punto for more walking—from 8200 to 6500 feet and back. This was a very slow four-hour hike, in which we examined every bromeliad-covered tree along the way. Before the hike we ate barbequed mutton on black bean-smothered thick corn tortillas, dressed with green, red, and avocado salsas. This was in a 5-table outdoor restaurant with a precipitous mountain view. After the hike we returned to the restaurant, and had “agua de zarzamora,” blackberry juice thinned to a delicious liter of icy fruited water, and a tiny blade of blackberry cheesecake.

    Finally, on May 25, we walked from Enrique’s house to “Cuchillos Aragón,” workshop of Guillermo Aragón, a “metalistero.” This is an invented word, indicating an artist of metal, but he is actually an artist of forging blades for work or decoration: knives, daggers, swords, machetes, scythes, etc. His family goes back to six generations of artisans. Here is a link to a history of their work: https://fahho-mx.translate.goog/los-cuchillos-d….

    There, my treasured Misono professional chef’s knife was re-shaped and sharpened by the master himself. He is also a gentleman of the older generations of Mexican society, “un gran caballero.”

    On the way back, we stopped to admire the Wednesday afternoon “Danzón in the Zócalo.” Danzón is a formal dance originating in Cuba. Perhaps after seeing the video I took, you might want more information! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danzón#Mex…

    I do so love living here! And I hope you enjoy the photos which illustrate this description.
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