FEBRUARY 2023: Outings and Carnival!

OUTINGS AND CARNIVAL! FEBRUARY 2023

First, a moment of memory and affection for my friend and neighbor Roger Bobo. I call him the Jascha Heifetz of tuba players. He also also taught the world through his many distinguished students that the tuba is a beautiful instrument. Please listen!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1txIgL8-2xY

We started February with a Sunday excursion to the town of Cuilápam to see the ex-convento there. Twenty years after Spain’s conquest of Mexico in 1521, it is astonishing how many such gargantuan religious edifices were built. (Or maybe not “astonishing,” as the Mesoamerican peoples were forced to tear down their own buildings and use the same stones to build the Spaniards’ religious edifices.)

At the ex-convent it was not only the day of a marriage, a baptism, and a quinceañera, but also Culiápam’s saint’s day, so there was much action in this ancient place. Enrique and I went for a walk in the surrounding farmed areas, and bought just-harvested black beans and peanuts from a local owner. And as always, there was a delicious meal in the market. Since we arrived late, we were served the last remaining dish: beef “panzita” in a tomato-y broth. It’s the only kind of tripe that Enrique can stomach.

The following Sunday we went to the town of Ocotlán, home of the artist Rodolfo Morales. We visited the museum which his family’s Foundation is running to display his works in rotation. There are murals of his in churches in the Central Valley of Oaxaca, and in other places as well. Search for “Roberto Morales Ocotlán” for beautiful images. The market was quite a highlight—full of activity, color, noise, and so much to buy!

Our third outing was to Mitla, which is famous for its Zapotec ruins and beautiful weavings. We saw the ruins first (of course all buildings were devastated by the conquering Spaniards, who forced the rightful owners to destroy their own buildings etc., etc.) Then we our market lunch, and a fascinating conversation with our hostess. She lived and worked as far north as Baja California, but made her way home south to Oaxaca twenty-odd years later. Finally, we bought lovely tablecloth “clothing” for Enrique’s and my dining tables.

Carnival! It is a time for happy pre-Lenten celebrations, with many many devils. The highlight was a parade of the best of carnival from neighboring villages here in the Valle Central de Oaxaca.

And oh! Of course there was Valentine’s Day.

Please enjoy the photos.Read more