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Speak, World
Speak, World

Speak, World

On this platform, my “footprints” are postcards to my friends. My home is the country I am in! I am committed to learning its language, and as much as possible about it, while maintaining great curiosity, a sense of humor and increasing acceptance. En savoir plus🇺🇸Alexandria
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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    The "tuyuyú," symbol of the Pantanal
    A piranha on a stickGetting closer...Got it!Only a few feet away, and eyeing me!1Heron catching a fishInteresting vine on the treeA bromeliadJames at the Poconé Pousada

    Pantanal North: Alligators!

    4 septembre 2018, Brésil ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    James and I came down from Cuiabá to the small city of Poconé, where we stayed at Kilometer Zero of the Transpantaneira Highway. We took two tours of the area. The first was hosted by the Pousada Rio Clara, 35 kilometers/15 miles away. We first took a two-hour boat ride, and had lunch. Although the “alligator gets fish on a stick” series shown in the photos below was definitely gimmicky, it was an excellent way to see the animal up close! The trick was repeated with a heron, who swooped down to catch the piranha.
    In the afternoon, we went for a walk through a Pantanal “higher ground” forest. I was fascinated by all aspects of the vegetation in its dry season. Overall, the animal life was more plentiful and easier to view than in the southern Pantanal.    En savoir plus

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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    1The "chapada"carved by the elements
    The Rio Claro, on the "sea floor"The "chapada" looking westOur trail on top of the chapadaTree (bonsai size) breaks dormancyGuerreiro in full gear, as plant guide

    Chapada dos Guimarães National Park

    31 août 2018, Brésil ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    The terrain of Chapada dos Guimarães National Park used to be under a large sea. When the waters receded, a seventy-eight mile long tableland of sandstone was left, to be carved by the wind and rain to its current shape. My fellow traveler friend James and I, accompanied by our guide “Guerreiro” ( a nickname meaning “Warrior”) explored the park for two days. On the first day, we were on the “sea floor,” which is traversed by the Rio Claro, a lovely meandering stream during this dry season.

    On the second day, we were on top of the “chapada,” the tableland, where we received a history of the area, an explanation of some of the plants of the “cerrado,” and panoramas of the region. Waves of prospectors for gold came from São Paulo via the rivers; miners for diamonds came later via a narrow path dug out on the cliffs of the chapada. Today, the prospectors have been replaced by the ever-advancing cattle ranchers. In the state of Mato Grosso, they are allowed to “desmatar,” defoliate, the cerrado up to forty percent of the land that they purchase from the government. Here in Brazil, this is called “conservation.” I am glad to be here now, in 2018, before the “conservation” is complete.

    There are 11,627 species of native plants that have already been catalogued in the cerrado, along with a tremendous diversity of habitats which host 199 species of mammals, 837 bird species, 1200 species of fish, 180 species of reptiles, and 150 species of amphibians. As always for me, the destruction of such richness—no matter where in the world it occurs—causes enormous sadness and the sense of unstoppable tragedy. Enough said.    En savoir plus

  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    "Bridal Veil Fall"
    A view of the "cerrado" vegetationUltra-kind Jota, who lives nearby!1Taking a selfie, Brazilian styleSandstone cliffs were once under waterCenter of South America: overlookAt center of South America: flying!!!With Guimarães's finestMy new criollo friendJames and Jota, pre-concert, Cuiabá

    Chapada dos Guimarães:Heaven near Cuiabá

    30 août 2018, Brésil ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    On Sunday, August 27, my friend Jota took me to the town of Chapada dos Guimarães, which is very close to the national park of the same name. On the way, we had a wonderful view of the “cerrado,” which is the main biome of midwest Brazil—its rich vegetation only surpassed in variety by the Amazonian regions. Chapada (similar to a “mesa,” or tableland) dos Guimarães National Park is set in the middle of this vegetation: the wind-carved sandstone “table” partially resembles the lands of Utah and Arizona in the United States, only it’s covered in green. Dramatic views are seen from “Morro de Vento,” “Hill of the Wind,” on a private property. On the geodesic center of South America, I show the view via a video of a paraglider, seen in the photo section.

    I stayed in the sweet Posada São José, run by an equally sweet family from São Paulo. Five hundred feet higher than Cuiabá, Chapada is cooler, the air is clean, and there is little reflected heat from asphalt and buildings because there is little of each! Although the population is officially 17,000 inhabitants, it is definitely small, friendly, and hospitable. For two days, I explored the town on foot. I met a journalist who is taking time off to run a Snow White-themed shop called “Chocolate Vila,” while she also ghost-writes a memoir for a town citizen. At the local English school for adults, “Wizard,” I took a lesson to improve my Portuguese pronunciation. I befriended a lovely criollo horse, and a couple of the town policemen. And on August 29, my friend James from London arrived to tour the park with me. For that, please wait for the next entry.

    To see the photos, please click on the first one, and the rest will appear in order.    En savoir plus

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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    A lack of superstition at the Getúllio
    Cuiabá's green spaces disappearingWhat a promising park!The park's "main way" is a street, alasBut the plant layers are lushAn artist's Matto Grosso allegoryI start in on my dinnerThe employees who let me cookFacades of Old Cuiabá on the riverLocal fish at the market

    Cuiabá, Capital of Mato Grosso

    26 août 2018, Brésil ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I have enjoyed everyone I've met here in my three days in Cuiabá. The city, however, does not like ME! Two days it was over 96 degrees—no surprise, as it’s famous for being scorching—and I have to say that it is just not walkable. Why? I guess that in the last twenty years, as it’s been fast-developing, the automobile has just taken over, and no one walks unless they have to.

    On the evening of the second day, a series of thunderstorms dumped rain on the southern part of the state, and a cold front passed through. So the third day I went to take advantage of the coolness to visit the Parque Mae Bonifacia, a large swath of green in the city. Despite the fact that the “trails” were mostly asphalt, and the main allée was an actual road, the growth was pleasantly thick. Freshened by the rain, everything smelled like freshly-cut herbs, and the bird life was active.

    On the way back, I not only found a market to buy vegetables—o joy o rapture—but also a perfect café in which to study for a few hours. Back at Hotel Getúllio, the young women who ran the hotel convenience store/cafe let me have the run of the kitchen to prepare some carrots and have a good chat as well.

    The morning of my departure, my friend Jota met me at the door of the hotel, and took me on a mini city tour. How right I was about the importance of having a car! In Jota’s truck, Cuiabá became inviting. We went to a lovely walkway along the Cuiabá River, and then to a very large market, filled with Sunday shoppers. I thank Jota for his time, his generosity, and his ability to slide my attitude over to positive. Cuiabá and I are now connected.

    Please remember to tap on the first picture, and then the rest will appear.    En savoir plus

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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    Famous! Poet Morãos, musician Reis
    Pe de Cedro: song of great nostalgiaMy hosts took me to massNote: this is a private property!Coxim's Christo Redentor with hosts1With Juliana, my hostessLooking down at the Rio TuquariJaque did my eyebrows!I did it for the experienceThe library! Always a haven

    Coxim, Part 2

    24 août 2018, Brésil ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    Running around Coxim, seeing people and having long chats in Portuguese. This was slow travel at its very best!

    Coxim has a native poet, Gerardo Melo Mourão, and a composer Sérgio Reis. The famous song they collaborated on is called “Pé de Cedro,” “At the Foot of the Cedro Tree.” It is wonderfully nostalgic, and bears listening to, at this link, which follows the words with appropriate pictures!

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fyh0POqZNTE

    Just near the guitar in the first picture is a “museum” of the town—really just a collection of stuff. My favorite thing was a photo of an alligator being cut out of an anaconda, but I didn’t include it in my photos. For real gore and frights, see YouTube videos of various creatures being cut out of giant snakes—including an Indonesian woman. (I couldn’t watch much of that one.)

    My Posada Pantanal hosts were sweet to me. I actually asked them to take me to mass with them (I am a pan-religious tourist) which made them so happy that they took me up to see the town’s Christo Redentor as well. The mass was standard, except for some musical accompaniment, but the mural I stared at for an hour was, well, compelling. The views from the Christo on the hill were very beautiful.

    It seems that getting eyebrows done is part of every Brazilian woman’s beauty routine. I wanted someone fussing over me, so I went to a beauty supply shop to get a brow makeover. I bought the product as well, for about $5.00. I loved the experience and the chat.

    And the library! I am always comfortable in any library, in complete silence, surrounded by friends—i.e., the books. Touch/click on the first photo to see the rest.    En savoir plus

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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    Sunset over the River Taquari
    At sunset at the Pousada PantanalEstrada para o PantanalA small owl2The owls reinforced their nest!The Coxim Shooting ClubFerocious competitonThe club's official T-shirtWith waiting wives and two cooksBurn-plant-grow-harvest eucalyptus

    Coxim, Mato Grosso do Sul Part One

    23 août 2018, Brésil ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The map shows differently, but this post takes place 220 miles south, in the town of Coxim (pronounced “ko-shíng”). It is famous for its fishing along the Taquari River, as well as its local folklore and history; every town feels very important—even the center of the universe—once one is there. It gets no mention in the guidebooks I use.

    I stayed in an inexpensive pousada right on the river; Juliana and her “namorado,” boyfriend, kept the never-updated rooms clean and simple. My first night I saw a cockroach the size of a mouse and a spider the size of an apricot, but fleeing terrified, they never appeared again. I took an eleven-mile walk the next morning on the “Estrada Para o Pantanal,” a dirt road where I saw six toucans, seven owls, and some very odd road-runner-like birds. I also stumbled on the Coxim Shooting Club. The members meet once a month or so, do competitive target shooting, and have a jolly huge barbecue lunch afterwards. I walked the long way back—utterly exhausting in the 95-degree heat.

    I loved staying in the small town, as I could calmly walk around and chat with the residents. I developed such a country accent! I found the library, and Niuva the librarian-cum-primary school teacher, Jaque did my eyebrows, and the owner of a bake shop chatted about her fear of everything. My pousada hosts took me to see a Christo Redentor overlooking the Taquari, and even cooked up a big feast for all the guests on my last night. The signature dish was “correiro,” “truck driver,” a mix of fried bacon and beef mixed with rice. My best “find” was an eccentric Andorran immigrant, who built his own museum/park/apartments/ranch house compound. In the park he placed his own sculpted life-size figures of famous town citizens. In the museum, students from the nearby university (who rented his apartments) curate his collection of 19th century porcelain, silver, paintings, and other objects. He also runs an online newspaper, “The Newspaper of the North Pantanal.”

    Touch/click on the first photo to see the rest. Then see the rest of the photos on the following footprint.    En savoir plus

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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    Study Sheet for Thai Alphabet p. 1
    Page twoThis mess is really a highly-organized review assignment for myself!These capivaras lazing by the First Lagoon are to cut the drudgery of this report!

    Studying Thai in Três Lagoas

    5 août 2018, Brésil ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I have actually been studying Thai since March of this year. First I studied three different sources to learn the Thai alphabet: ThaiPod101’s Twenty-five lessons, then my teacher Kruu Wee’s own PDF explanation, and finally the book “Learn To Read Thai in 10 Days.” It was difficult to learn an alphabet where the vowels “decorate” the consonants on all four sides, instead of following the consonant dutifully. With repetition, it’s getting easier.

    Every day, my study routine is thus:
    1. Write all of the 44 consonants in their groups: High/Middle/Low. Then write the numbers 1-10.
    2. Re-memorize 15 pages of notes from my 6-week study stint last March-April, 2017.
    3. Read and memorize the material from Kruu Wee’s own course, which has very useful conversation patterns.

    It usually takes one hour to do this, if I manage to stay focused.

    HOWEVER, I just found out that Kruu Wee is ready to teach again (she just had baby Henry about 6 months ago) so I will really turn on the steam to learn to speak. Even though Thai has five tones, the Thai people I have met so far have understood what I am saying, even if I mangle the tones! (Chinese people could not do that, for some reason: the tone had to be exact.) This is very encouraging, but even so, I am strict with myself about the accurate tonal pronunciation. I have to admit that for four months, I have been doing the big NO-NO for me of effective language-learning: not speaking to native speakers. I commit that I shall schedule a lesson with Kruu Wee tomorrow, and สวัสดีค่ะภาษาไทย!! (Hello Thai!)    En savoir plus

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  • Speak, WorldBrazil, Part TwoSpeak, World
    I talked to all three generations!
    1My Itatiaia hairdresser--nice chat!Page 52 shows my new Brazil words!2Right page has an exam for teachers

    Itatiaia, State of Rio de Janeiro

    22 juillet 2018, Brésil ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I am doing my usual Portuguese study in this small city of Itatiaia, halfway between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. It consists of: vocabulary review, including a NEW PAGE, page 52, with some of the new words from this trip; a newspaper with a sample exam for public secondary school teachers of Portuguese; and countless conversations every day. My new mission for conversation: improve my accent. Because I look so foreign and speak “carefully” rather than “carefreely,” people have trouble understanding me. Probably they have rarely heard a foreigner speaking Portuguese, as Itatiaia is not a big tourist hub, even with Brazil’s first national park nearby. So, on goes the practice!En savoir plus

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