Speak, World
On this platform, my “footprints” are postcards to my friends. My home is the country I am in! I am committed to learning its language, and as much as possible about it, while maintaining great curiosity, a sense of humor and increasing acceptance. Baca lagi🇺🇸Alexandria
  • Quiet Adventures in Learning Thai-Landia

    20 November 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    OK, where were we? Way back at the beginning of October in Vientiane Laos. Here’s a catch-up. Back in Chiang Mai and all during the month of October, I was buried in eight weekly Thai lessons and tons of conversation and reading practice. Toward the end of the month I woke up and realized that there was an enormous amount of material to digest, so in November I decided to stop all lessons and review.

    Well, that stage lasted exactly two weeks, though I filled out over 150 flash cards with new vocabulary, and listened to and took notes from recorded lessons given by my most colorful teacher Andy. I went over my readings. By mid-November I was listless and sinking into the first trough of my two-year experiment in international living. A pernicious thought parked itself in my consciousness: “Why aren’t Thai people rushing in to embrace me and take care of me and show me everything about Thailand after I have studied Thai SO MUCH?” No one was paying attention to me at all.

    It took falling even lower, until a phone call to a wise friend finally jolted me to realize that I was suffering from “Cultural Entitlement.” So I stopped that, and became pro-active. I enlisted a new face-to-face teacher to speak with twice a week. I went on the excellent internet teacher source, italki, where I found a wryly eccentric young woman in Bangkok to converse with me twice a week. And I kept my lovely teacher in northeast Thailand for our twice-weekly chats. All this was just for talking. In regard to reading, I hooked up with my very first teacher from last year to guide me to high-level reading ability via original material. A brilliant teacher and an inspired decision on my part.

    My new approach is to digest each reading lesson before I schedule another one. But for conversation, my policy is to keep talking as much as possible. This is to start to create fluency and ease. Well, maybe too much ease. I encountered a man from my neighborhood in a far-off supermarket. He introduced me to his estranged wife. She took me to a deserted aisle and described how he had left her, BUT her evangelical Christianity put her in a euphoria that took her to Jerusalem, even though her house had just burned down, and she felt just FINE. At one of my coffee shops, I saw another man, whose wife wasn’t with him that day. He came over to talk to me. After I told him that my passion was learning foreign languages, he told me his passion was everything about air conditioners. Yes! Installing them perfectly, designing new inner mechanisms, teaching students to do the same, and loving every minute. Such a new perspective everyone should receive.

    When I was eighteen and studying the Suzuki violin method in Japan, families of violin students I observed, or English students, would take me places and show me things. I have had a small taste of that in Thailand, but not much. So, to get things started, I asked the manager of the nearby drag cabaret company if he would let me watch a rehearsal of his troupe. They practice a rare rehearsal scheme, if I’m not mistaken. After the show ends each night at around 11:30 PM, the audience leaves, and the girls and guys prepare a completely new show for the next night. They start rehearsing in the middle of the night! Although I shall risk contracting a serious illness by staging an all-nighter, I am going to watch the entire show AND rehearsal tomorrow night. I’m determined to discover their secrets. You’ll have to wait for the next blog post to read my report.

    Enjoy the pictures, which have nothing to do with language learning. And please don’t forget to sign your first name if you leave a comment.
    Baca lagi

  • A Little Break in Vientiane, Laos

    5 Oktober 2019, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    It is a wonderful thing to take a break from my intensive Thai learning in Chiang Mai by making a “visa extension run” to the capital of Laos. I am here, actually, to obtain a new, two-month tourist visa, which can be extended an extra month.

    The whole visa business in Thailand is labyrinthine to begin with, and because of a new federal immigration officer, it borders on sadism. Even my simple little visa had a twist: one now has to make an APPOINTMENT to hand in one’s application! Not knowing that ahead of time cost me a flight cancellation and re-booking, two extra nights of lodging, and agony with a slow response from the Thai Consulate when attempting to get an appointment. Everything is in order now, and I shall pick up my new visa in two days.

    That said, the extra days are GOOD for me! Although it is beastly hot, I amble around the capital all day long, stopping in at mercifully cool cafes to study Thai, and then heading out again. I cover 5-6 miles a day, just looking around, and brazenly starting up conversations with anyone who looks interesting. I say, “Please forgive me, I can’t speak Lao, only Thai. Do you speak Thai? You do? Fantastic! How old is your beautiful baby? What is the name of this vegetable? How do you cook it? Your Thai is excellent!” And on and on. Don’t worry—I read body language, and never bother anyone who isn’t game to chat. I do learn some excellent bits of information, and hear a few stories as well.

    The effect of the wandering/study is total relaxation. I can see that if I am more peaceful about my Thai learning, I will be much happier. Every day I do my flashcards, read a short essay in Thai about some aspect of Thailand from a new reader, and listen to a recording of a lesson with one of my teachers. I obviously practice on the streets with my hapless Lao victims. When I get back to Chiang Mai, I shall keep up with my relaxed approach and accept where I am with the language.

    Here are some photos of Vientiane. Although I am not being a tourist at all, I enjoy my strolling immensely.
    Baca lagi

  • Starting School and a Dog Bite

    10 September 2019, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    On August 21, while I virtuously did my morning aerobic walk on a lovely leafy street at 5:30 am, a pack of dogs came at me, and one of them aggressively lunged at me and bit me on my left leg. It drew blood, which dripped down my calf as I walked to the nearest emergency room— luckily a scant two kilometers away. My attack was obviously a ho-hum medical event, as the bite was quickly cleaned and dressed, and the first of five staggered anti-rabies vaccines was injected in my arm. Easily treated, and the whole package of antibiotics, wound dressings and injections was paid for upfront, $196. But the trauma has been longer-lasting. It takes a bad bite months to heal instead of weeks. I wasn’t even able to walk without a painful limp until two weeks had passed. And now I’m fearful of vagrant dogs on the street—which is actually a necessary fear. Needless to say, I am avoiding that street and the early hour. If I have to be on back streets in the dark (which I never am) I shall have my trekking pole with me.

    I decided to enter “Thai as a Second Language School” in August. In one month my two classmates and I whipped through the first level of “pre-advanced” Thai, Level 7, and are now in week two of the Level 8. In October, I will officially be “advanced!” Well, who knows what that really means. It is quite a shock to be in a school after eleven months without a classroom, classmates, textbooks and assigned homework. My independent learning has been very interesting, but spotty, as I dictated to the teacher what I wanted to talk about, and what vocabulary I needed. Although this was seemingly a good approach, it threw out all the vocabulary, grammar, expressions, sentence structure, and nuances presented in an organized fashion by the expert author(s) of the textbook. Oh—and also a teacher proficient in English to explain it all. If I ever start a new language again, the independent approach will definitely be the sidekick.

    I have just finished my third Add1Challenge (see www.add1challenge.com if you’re curious). Every week I made a video about a topic in Thai, so I decided the best way to let all of you see part of my language-learning life is to send links to the videos that might be interesting. There are subtitles on all of them, by the way.

    *Buddhism for Thai Children—how do they start learning? https://youtu.be/SS_jXc2wX2Y

    *Thai Friends, Meet Oaxaca—a bit of Mexico here! https://youtu.be/-6KIvlTIMOg

    *Thai Reading and Pronunciation—you’ll never believe this! https://youtu.be/SdKvSi8RB_M

    *All about the dog bite. Trigger warning: there’s a picture of my leg: https://youtu.be/HFpO-rsdGi8

    *Day 90 Video, comparing learning Thai independently and in school: https://youtu.be/HtLbJBZ8Ho8

    In some of the videos I seem to be talking quickly and articulately. It’s because I memorized sentences corrected by my teacher. In the last two, I’m speaking more or less extemporaneously, so they represent my “true” voice.

    Please enjoy the photos, and if you leave a comment, please sign your first name.
    Baca lagi

  • Settling in to Chang Klan by the Ping

    19 Ogos 2019, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Hello Everyone! It’s been two weeks since my return to Chiang Mai. A combination of weak wifi, jet-lag, and a precipitous dive into a high-level Thai class in a school, PLUS settling into a minimally-appointed new apartment threw me into an uncomfortable spin for most of the first week, but today, at the end of my second week, I feel much better.

    I am staying in the “Chang Klan” district of Chiang Mai. If you look at the map, you can see that I am near the bottom right-hand corner of a square. That square is the Historic Area of Chiang Mai. I chose my area because I am eleven minutes’ walk from my school, and also five minutes’ walk from my friend Victoria Vorreiter’s condo. My street is busy with tourist hotels and supporting businesses, but the surrounding streets have schools, homes, and normal city life.

    Here is a link to the description of my apartment. Scroll left at the top picture to see the various rooms. Obviously the pictures are “doctored up” BUT the size and furnishings are accurate:
    https://abnb.me/RmetZDffeZ

    Chiang Mai, like Oaxaca before it, is in the midst of the rainy season. Every day, clouds build up, and there’s usually a thunderstorm or two with plenty of lightning and rain before evening. It’s not too hot—up to the high 80’s—but there is high humidity. It’s all bearable—there is air conditioning after all—and I rather like experiencing this season for the first time.

    Every morning I have been waking up around 5 am, and I immediately leave for a very fast 30-minute circular walk before breakfast. I pass a convention center, and then turn up a long street with an elementary school, a technical college, the center for water control for the province, the Chaimongkol Temple, the Alliance Francaise and French School of the Far East, and the Anantara—the best hotel in Chiang Mai. Another few turns along commercial streets, and I’m home.

    I decided to try the school, “Thai as a Second Language,” so I could hear Thai from a native speaker (i.e., the teacher) six hours a week without any effort on my part. The first week was very difficult, as I’ve never had a textbook in Thai before. The long sentences incorporating the grammar points, vocabulary and expressions were indecipherable, as I was used to short text messages and flash card entries. But I’m used to them already, so the pressure is mild instead of intense. I love my classmates, a man from New Zealand and a Buddhist nun from Argentina. Our teacher is competent, friendly, and very lovely, so we are a happy class. I do look forward to it.

    I have a very long way to go with my Thai language. I can have conversations, yes, but my instant recall of vocabulary is very buggy, and the depth of the conversations is shallow. However, it’s getting better by the day, and you won’t find me quitting anytime soon. I also love being in my third Add1Challenge, sending messages to my language-learning friends, and talking to my Thai-learning buddy Randal every Wednesday morning via Skype. All in all, I’m having a good time.

    Here are a few pictures. If you leave a comment (as I hope you will) please sign your first name. Cheers!
    Baca lagi

  • Oaxaca, Mexico?? What's going on?

    3 Ogos 2019, Mexico ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    It’s been AGES since I’ve posted a blog. I left Santiago de Chile on June 2, and have spent the last two months in my beloved Oaxaca, Mexico, doing a bilingual mental dance with Spanish, Thai and English. Mostly Thai. Then Spanish. And not as much English. I find that I LOVE this kind of travel because I can have so much more contact with culture and humanity.

    I didn’t think that you, my friends, would enjoy my blog/postcards about language learning, so I didn’t write any. HOWEVER, I am now going to write about my language learning, spliced with photos of my doings and adventures—because this is my life now! Please let me know if you’d like “off” the list of blog recipients, and I shall let you go with absolutely no hard feelings.

    Here in Oaxaca, I have studied Thai three to five hours a day with two tutors, a teacher strictly for conversation, and three language exchange partners from a website called “Tandem.” I transferred all my vocabulary words, expressions and sentences from two notebooks into a digital flash card application called “Anki.” It enables me to review anywhere—in bed, waiting for someone to appear at a restaurant, or on the sofa! I have subscribed to fifteen Thai YouTube channels, which include homilies by a fun-loving Buddhist monk, anti-aging hints from a doctor representing my wonderful medical provider, Bangkok Hospital, a gay/ladyboy channel for camp talk, and a fabulous American Mormon who speaks Thai as well as any Thai person as he teaches them English, among many other channels. I have read through a textbook, and wrote diary entries in Thai. I am aiming for my Second Big Push when I head to Chiang Mai on August 4th. My goal is to get good enough to have effortless and deep conversations with as many people as possible. After five months of speaking Spanish which is interchangeable with my English, my bar for Thai (as well as my other languages) is set very high indeed!

    Above all, I am doing all this study because it is fun for me. It is FUN. Not work, not discipline, not self-flagellation, but self-indulgent luxurious PLEASURE, for which I have been (unknowingly) preparing all my life.

    Here are a few of my favorite Oaxaca pictures. I hope you enjoy them. If you leave a comment, please leave your first name as well. See you next in Thailand. Cheers!
    Baca lagi

  • Santiago: The Capital At Last!

    1 Jun 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I have a confession to make. My heart really wasn't in visiting Santiago. In fact, I became downright grumpy and even upset, so consequently changed my departure date from June 22 to June 2. What happened? First, I chose a neighborhood to live in that wasn't comfortable. Recoleta is old and tattered, but at the same time is gentrifying. But it's unsafe at night, and there are no places to go study or hang out in during the day. Then, my Airbnb property, while charmingly designed and huge, was always bitingly cold inside. Colder inside than outside, actually. I used two canisters of propane for my heater during my stay, which never did manage to cut the chill. So, I wore the same four layers of clothing as outside, including a cashmere sweater, a down vest and a down jacket.

    In addition, I grew weary of my traveling, slow though it has been. I didn't want to sightsee, or “explore.” I also didn’t want to feel guilty for NOT going out to see things. And, my very high-level Spanish ironically showed me how much I wanted and needed to improve my Thai, so I spent my days speaking one and studying the other. I even joined the Add1Advance Challenge40 to improve my Thai. So there we are.

    However, I did have a lovely time going out, and I had many interesting conversations with some curious, friendly, and well-spoken Chileans. The highlights were a visit to the superb Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, and a visit to my friends, the Guerrero family. I enjoyed the Gabriela Mistral Cultural Center for chamber music concerts, and the Moneda (Presidential Palace) Cultural Center for spectacular exhibitions. And I enjoyed, as always, walking the city streets, looking around, and studying in cafes with comfy seats. The exploring part of me seems as if it is never going to really go away!

    So, here are my “highlight” pictures. If you leave a comment anywhere, please leave your first name as well.
    Baca lagi

  • Concepción, Chile's Second-Largest City

    17 Mei 2019, Chile ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Concepción was recommended to me by two of her native sons, the Orellana brothers, my friends in Castro, Chiloé. After their promise of many places to see, as well as a contact number for their mother, off I went. It is a modern city on the banks of the Bío Bío River, rebuilt many times, first because of destruction by the marvelously brave original inhabitants of the land, the Mapuche people, and then by numerous earthquakes and tsunamis. Concepción also had trouble gaining independence from Spain in the early 1800´s, due to the powerful and numerous pro-Spain royalists. Nowadays, the buildings are government-sanctioned earthquake-proofed, there are evacuation routes from tsunamis, and a feeling—for me, at least—of some stability. That is helped by the fact that there are many public and private universities and technical colleges, and a student population that is both progressive and studious—mostly. For more information about the city and the war for independence, here are two articles:

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concepci&oacute…

    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chilean_War_of_…

    I took a one-day outing to Lota in order to descend into a Dickensian coal mine named “Chiflón del Diablo (I translate it as “The Breath of the Devil”) which was closed recently—in 1999. Roberto, our guide, was a miner there, and at my queries before the other two people in our group joined us, gave me a corporeal tour of his many injuries. Quite a scary place is this mine, and aside from a guard rail and many closed-off sections, there is nothing touristy about it. During my visit I prayed for NO EARTHQUAKE.

    Most of the time I walked around the city during the day, visiting the library, a gallery of dioramas by Rudolfo Gutierrez, the Pinoteca of the Universidad de Concepción, Parque Ecuador, and student haunts. I also attended a documentary film on campus (U de C) about seaweed forests off the coasts of Patagonia, close to where I just had been. All very interesting, and certainly different from other places of my trip so far.

    Please enjoy the pictures, and be sure to sign your first name if you leave a comment.
    Baca lagi

  • In Chiloé: Hiking!

    11 Mei 2019, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    I am very enthusiastic about city and country alike in my travels. There is just something so wonderful about being on a trail (preferably totally alone) with my binoculars and all my senses—just walking and absorbing. Perhaps this and using my languages are my two greatest pleasures in life.

    So I first indulged myself to a guided hike to Parque Tantauco, a private park, made available to the people of Chile by the current president, Sebastian Piñera. It is a rain forest, with rare and wonderful trees that store water in their roots, which in turn are set in lush moss a foot or more deep. It is a magical place, endangered as all places are in Chile, by cutting cutting cutting trees for firewood. Even virgin old-growth forests are fair game. If you expand the map above to see the rest of the island, this will be more than evident. I weep to think of it. My guide, Felipe, was first-rate, and he and his historian brother became my friends.

    I also hiked in the wetlands section of Chiloé National Park, on well-made trails on many boardwalks. I saw birds of many kinds, and ate a great many “murta” berries, which resemble a cross between a blueberry and a sweetened cranberry, but with an acidic bite. A berry with character. The park is bordered by the Pacific Ocean, which was a thrilling sight, what with the breakers rolling in. I unfortunately remembered that some disastrous tsunamis covered the exact place where I sat to have my lunch, which wasn´t pleasant. Never mind, I’m OK.

    Please enjoy the pictures.
    Baca lagi

  • Excursions in Chiloé: Towns and Churches

    11 Mei 2019, Chile ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    During my two-week stay in Castro, I took a few excursions around the island. The small towns are lovely, the wooden churches are certainly amazing, and the bus rides there and back passed through countryside that looked a great deal like England. (A few English visitors concurred.)

    My first trip was to Dalcahue and its church, town, and waterfront, and another day I went south of there to Achao, with similar sights. One day I went to meet my friend Omar in the northern part of the island to Ancud to visit the Historic Churches Museum and eat THE local food, “curanto.” And lastly, I went from Dalcahue east with two guides I became friends with. I was their model “extranjera,” foreigner, to appear in photos advertising a tour the historian brother was preparing for the next tourist year. We visited six churches, and had a jolly time.

    Again, I let the pictures tell a bit more...
    Baca lagi

  • At Home in Castro, capital of Chiloé

    10 Mei 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Chiloé, “place of seagulls” in the indigenous Huilliche language, is known for being South America’s largest island, and the last place in the continent to finally gain independence from Spain. It is also an archipelago of tiny islands with distinct architecture, food, superstitions, customs, mythology, flora and fauna. Too too much to describe in this short blog. But feel free to learn more here:
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chiloé_A…

    I decided to devote two weeks to just live on the island, in its capital of Castro, in a neat little cabaña (in Chile, a self-contained little house) in a residential area a mile from the center of town. Here I have become acquainted with many sweet “chilotes,” all about my height of 5’ 1” or shorter—rarely taller—and have fallen in with the culture day by day.

    I started with the Mercado Municipal, the “feria,” (the City Market) which is in every Chilean town of any size. During the week, the permanent stalls re-sell food and handcrafts which were bought from other markets or individuals. But on the weekend, a large inner space is occupied by folks from all over the archipelago to sell their garden bounty. They are not charged for the space. I bought Swiss chard, a bag of very unique potatoes (it is said that over 200 varieties are cultivated here) “cochayuyo,” a kind of kelp that bulks up a soup, fresh shelling beans, fat sweet carrots, cilantro, cabbage, and giant cloves of garlic. At the regular stalls, I bought a bit of smoked pork for flavor and the ultimate luxuries: cheeks of merluzas ( a large fish) salmon ceviche and wood-smoked salmon—all of which I enjoyed in my own soups or on their own.

    Every day there have been conversations, chance meetings, and many observations. Such as: when it rains, a very frequent occurrence, the most anyone does is to pull up the hoods of their jackets—or not—and just get wet. Kisses on the cheek are the greeting of choice to say hello or goodbye, and they are warm and affectionate. I have been kissed by the sales staff who helped to sell me my new rucksack, two men on my street carrying a heavy bag home to their wives, and my guide from a hike. When two dogs meet, they lick each other on the “face.” They teach each other to howl lustily, and to practice the deliciously dangerous and naughty sport of chasing cars and motorcycles. Fish and shellfish rule—fresh or smoked—and they are cheap and delicious. Ditto with local cheeses.

    I’ve haunted city cafes and the municipal library to study, and visited more than once the main church of San Francisco —one of sixteen which are UNESCO Patrimonios de la Humanidad— and the City Museum. But most of all I walked and talked and looked and wandered. The pictures tell more of the story.

    Please sign your first name if you leave a comment.
    Baca lagi

  • A Glacier and Volcano: Goodbye Patagonia

    21 April 2019, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After my few days of sociability in Rio Tranquilo and Coyhaique, it was back to hiking and exploring, first in Queulat National Park near Puyuhuapi (pronounced pu-yu-wá-pee) and then in the town of Chaitén.

    In Puyuhuapi, a made-up-the-night-before group chartered a van to take us up to one of the Queulat Park entrances. There were four possible trails to take. I went with the group on the “main trail” up to a glacial waterfall, immediately letting everyone pass me by so I could have the trail to myself.

    Some notes about hiking. First of all, most hiking trails have a “destination,” but for me, the TRAIL is the destination. I enjoy it all: the changing scenery at each stage, the lichens and ferns, the smaller plants, the bushes and the trees. I examine everything that moves, as well as plants and vistas, with my close-focus binoculars. It takes time, because I let it take all the time I want just to SEE. In the case of the Queulat Trail, I did get to the end to see the melting water of the glacier form a spectacular waterfall to the river 2000 feet below. Another note: after slipping on a piece of wood and landing on my rear with a terrible wallop on this hike, I decided to invest in a hiking pole. My balance is improved 100% with just one pole.

    The following day, I took a bus to Chaitén, a town just coming back to life after a surprise eruption of Mount Chaitén in 2008 covered the town with volcanic ash. I talked to a woman who went through it. She said there was a terrible explosion in the afternoon of May 2nd, 2008, and the order to evacuate the town came soon after. By nightfall, people were still leaving, and the next day all were gone. Only animals were left, and many perished in the ashes.

    So, April 24 found me exploring the newly-constructed town, poking around the ashes which are still everywhere, and examining hills of dead trees and new growth. Toward the end of the day, I had a conversation with a house construction contractor. I asked if, given the risk of a future explosion, it was unwise to build new houses. He said that no matter what, construction would continue. But after further questioning, I found that no one in town could ever purchase home insurance for a future volcanic catastrophe.

    Here are some interesting links: (you can find many others as well, of course)
    1. From Geology.com: https://geology.com/volcanoes/chaiten/
    2. From Wikipedia : https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaitén_…
    3. From YouTube: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HyDIyALTwL8

    And here are my pictures! Please sign your first name if you leave a comment.
    Baca lagi

  • Rio Tranquilo and Coyhaique Redux

    19 April 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I decided to change my Northern Patagonian itinerary in order to celebrate my sixty-eighth birthday on April 19th. I had found an excellent conversationalist in my new friend Omar in Rio Tranquilo during my first visit there (blog of April 11) and he readily agreed to spend my birthday with me. He kindly plied me with excursions around the neighborhood, including the campground which he owns and manages. He prepared as well an excellent birthday dinner, even ordering his local baker to make a strawberry cream cake! Hooray for good company!

    I then made a second stop in Coyhaique—mainly to recover from all the icy, shared-bathroom, one-to-two-night hostal stays. I caught my breath in the familiar streets, and was lucky to make a new friend, Vicky. Originally from Rome, she met her artist husband, Siguesmund, in Italy over thirty-three years ago, and has lived in Patagonia/Coyhaique ever since. When she and I met in one of those huge Chinese-owned emporiums (which are now all over the world) she invited me to supper that very night. I met her husband and two grown children, and was treated to more excellent conversation. The following day, we walked all around Coyhaique to see “Sigues’s” sculptures, and also to have a nice long chat. The advantage of traveling alone at my age (and with a few foreign languages) is that I can quite willingly lend my ear to anyone who needs a non-gossipy alternative to local company. We had a ball.

    So, here I am, sixty-eight in actual age but hey! —still twenty-four in outlook—or so I’d like to think.
    Please enjoy the photos, and sign your comments!
    Baca lagi

  • Cochrane, My Southernmost Destination

    14 April 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    If you look at the map, and pinch it in quite a bit to see the rest of Chile, you’ll see that Cochrane is pretty far south. In fact, since the regions of Chile are numbered from one to twelve, starting in the north at the Peruvian border, Cochrane is in region eleven. It is a not-pretty town of around three thousand inhabitants, founded in 1954, and only connected to the rest of the country when the Carretera Austral was completed in 1958. It is the last town on the highway. By the way, the “highway” is basically a one-lane gravel road.

    I was dying to go there in order to visit Patagonia National Park. Frankly, if I were to copy one elderly woman, who, with an ingenious two-wheeled cart she could pull along behind her, walked the entire length of the Carretera Austral, I would experience all of the exquisite scenery I might require for the rest of my life. But entering a national park anywhere in the world is a special experience, and this is a very new one, so I was excited.

    I stayed at an Airbnb listing: a room with a shared bath in a house occupied by a single woman and her fourteen-year-old daughter. It was efficiently heated by a ubiquitous wood-burning stove, so I waited every morning to get up when the fire had been made so my suffering in the bedroom cold would be limited to only a few minutes. Lucía was friendly, though shy, so it took a few days together for us to get chatty. By the end, she was plying me with homemade bread, and made a rare shellfish dinner for us all on my last night.

    Patagonia National Park can be approached from two points, but only one, the Tamango Section was open to me when I was there. Twice I hiked on private property toward a now-closed park entrance. It was a splendid walk, and made easier by being a dirt road: I could look around all I wanted with little fear of falling. I fall on the average of once every two weeks—either by slipping or by inattention. I have since bought a “bastón,” or walking pole, to have better balance. The trail in the park proper was beautiful every step of the way. I rejoiced.

    Enjoy the photos, and please remember to sign your first name if you leave a comment.
    Baca lagi

  • Puerto Rio Tranquilo and Marble Caves

    11 April 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Lago General Carrera is the largest lake in South America, and is shared with Argentina—where it’s called Lago Buenos Aires. The Carretera Austral runs down along the exquisite western part of the lake, and I stopped to visit the hamlet of Puerto Rio Tranquilo to see the famous Marble Caves.

    One has to see them by boat, so upon my arrival I hurriedly booked a trip there—to take advantage of the lovely afternoon light, and to avoid a day of rain forecast for the morrow. The marble caves and other formations are truly remarkable—carved by glacial movement into quite exotic shapes. The marble is “young,” soft, and not the type that Michelangelo carved. A marvelous tour.

    The town itself, with its 350-person population, was of interest to me as well. I stayed in a hostal with other foreigners, which I at first abhorred. Why? The shared bathroom for one. But also, if I am in Chile, I want to meet Chileans—not a bunch of foreigners like myself. HOWEVER, I developed a much better attitude by talking to the lovely owners, a family from the north, a French jazz violinist, a French enthusiast of Namibian music and song (both of these Frenchmen entertained us with their skills); a young Japanese man who quit his job and was slipping into volunteer work to re-invent himself, a pair of young women working for a mining company up north in Chile’s Atacama area, etc. I can see why the hostal experience has been so important for so many travelers.

    I made a new friend in town, an ex-veterinarian who runs a campground and sightseeing boat service. And I also enjoyed walking around and seeing such things as the very atmospheric cemetery. You’ll see what I mean in the picture section.

    Please remember to sign your first name if you leave a comment!
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  • Coyhaique and Villa Cerro Castillo

    4 April 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Coyhaique is the “capital” of Northern Patagonia. With a population of 50,000, it’s considered a “real” city in this part of the country. I first stayed in an Airbnb lodging with a single mother and her 12-year-old daughter, inconveniently located a mile from the center. I was placed in the daughter’s room—no space whatsoever for my things—just the floor and the bed and a shared bath. However, the mother was so articulate, friendly, and generous, that I forgave her the inconveniences—though I did mention them to her in my private review for Airbnb. She had just lost her job in town, after the new federal government administration kicked out of her long-held job. So I could tell that she was quite desperate for anyone to rent the room. I have found that this is often the case in the rooms I’m taking. Many single mothers eking out a living.

    Coyhaique is set in a very beautiful valley, so I was eager to explore the huge “National Reserve” a few kilometers away. It had a well-set-out circular trail of around twelve miles, with much variety of scenery, and mainly native plants. Three different varieties of pine trees were planted in Patagonia in the 1950’s to quickly fill in the losses from various forest fires. Bad idea: the pine trees have multiplied so rapidly that they are out of control in many areas. They are used for paper pulp and firewood, mostly, but they are not native, and blemish the landscape. I did love the Reserve, though.

    After two nights with the kind mother and daughter, I moved to a hostel. In a hostel? Me? I chose one that was run by an elderly couple. I took a few peaceful days there with strong wifi to finish my Thai Add1Advance Challenge and my Day90 video of a conversation with a native speaker. It was a surprise to me that I could speak Thai at all, with 99% of my day speaking only Spanish. A miracle. In the process, I discovered many great cafés—some of which did NOT serve instant coffee.

    I moved south by bus on the Carretera Austral (the main—and sometimes only— road in Patagonia, built during the Pinochet dictatorship) to Villa Cerro Castillo, a village of 2500 souls, with high jagged peaks definitely resembling a castle. My lodging was a boarding house for twenty-four men working in the area. I didn’t know this when I accepted the room, loving the view of the “castle,”and the price: $15 per night. I soon found out that there were no locks on the doors, no heating at all, and the bathroom was shared with the guys—way way down a steep ladder-like staircase. The elderly couple that ran the place gave the men three home-cooked meals a day, including hot bread from the oven at lunch and dinner. The husband was the “panadero,” making well over a hundred 3” X 3” “ayuyas”—flat Chilean-style rolls—per day, using two wood-burning ovens. Such an experience!

    The hike to the peaks was a trail leading straight up 1000 meters—3,280 feet—again across a lovely and varied terrain. I found myself wildly out-of-shape after five months mostly sitting down to study Thai. This situation was to change rapidly! The hike was as rewarding as the hot “ayuya” I ate with my usual vegetables upon my return.

    Please enjoy the photos, and don’t forget to sign your first name if your leave a comment.
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  • A Ferry to Aysén, Northern Patagonia

    2 April 2019, Chile ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    From Puerto Montt, I rode a bus all the way down the island of Chiloé, Latin America´s largest island, to the small city of Quellón. It is the starting point for a few ferries going south through southern Chile’s islands and fjords. I took a look around the city for the day, walking eleven miles or so, until it was time for my ferry to leave at 11 PM.

    I thought it would be quite an adventure to take this 28-hour “cruise” to tiny and isolated ports in Chilean Patagonia. It wasn’t quite an “adventure,” or a “cruise,” but it was very educational. On the boat, all passengers sat in reclining seats, and at night we could sleep all we liked. During the day, movies were showing constantly on many screens, but we were free to walk around on the decks to see the islands. OK, most of the time we had an excellent view of fog, BUT thanks to my binoculars, I sighted two curious seals who bobbed up and down to have a look at the boat, as well as many birds.

    At every port there was great drama. Evidently, the arrival of the ferry was highly anticipated, as people were either coming home or leaving it. Also, trucks full of all sorts of needed supplies drove off the ramp. I saw some people receive a case of homemade apple cider (7-proof) who opened it and started drinking it right at the landing! There was also a great quantity of beer that was unloaded. Anyway, it was fun to watch, and most passengers tore themselves away from the Disney film on the screens to watch the landing action.

    I also spoke with many people. A French couple in their 30’s were biking around the world for two years, and South America was the end of their journey. They were open and delightful: international personalities. I spoke with a Chilean agronomist who was raising bees to sell the honey, and was also saving money for a special machine to artificially inseminate the queen so as to produce mixed breeds. There was a Syrian immigrant working for a transport company—grateful for Chile’s welcome, and his escape from his war-torn country. Etc. I love finding out what people do, and what is important to them.

    After landing in Puerto Chacabuco, I took a shared taxi to the small city of Aysén and my Airbnb property. My hostess and Patagonia guide, Sandra, advised me to visit the Rio Simpson National Reserve, a lovely trail along the river which charted the course of the settlers to the region. And the following day, she and her friend Sergio, another guide, took me out all day to see very beautiful local sights dear to their hearts. I am so glad to be where the air is pure, and the countryside is so stunning.

    Please enjoy the photos, and be sure to leave your first name with any comment.
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  • Welcome to Chile, and Northern Patagonia

    28 Mac 2019, Chile ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    I crossed the Andes! By bus, between the cities of Mendoza, Argentina, and Santiago, Chile, on March 25, 2019. By lucky chance, I sat in the “panorama seats,” right at the front of the bus, and blessed by clean windows, the mountains unfolded. After a two-hour border crossing (every single bag of every passenger was scanned, in addition to the usual passport/visa checking) we had the real adventure: a series of twenty-four switchbacks called “el caracol,” the snail. Truly terrifying. Check out the video in the photo section, which doesn’t even begin to record the experience.

    After a few hours in the main bus terminal in Santiago (a highlight was a large plate of vegetables for dinner) I was on an overnight bus south to Puerto Montt in the Lake District, and just north of the beginning of Northern Patagonia. In Chile, Patagonia is divided into north and south; for this trip, I decided to limit myself to the northern section.

    Puerto Montt has an interesting history—as a specially designated sector for German immigrants in the 1800’s, and as leading producer of farmed salmon. Now it’s the capital of the the Los Lagos Region, and an important administrative center in southern Chile. For more information, see this link:
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Puerto_Montt

    I stayed with an excellent Airbnb family, who originally hailed from Antofagasta in the very north of Chile. Mariana, the wife, kept getting teary-eyed when she saw me, as I evidently greatly resemble her late grandmother. Rodrigo, the husband, was the handsomest man I’ve seen in a long time—an ex-army officer. They looked after me with great care and affection AND we had very interesting conversations as well.

    On my own, I planned my travels, walked around the small city, took care of business—such as getting a Chilean SIM card—and took a hike on the island of Tenglo, which is just across a narrow canal. A very fine welcome to Chile.

    Please enjoy the pictures, and be sure to sign your first name if you leave a comment.
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  • Tupungato, Lovely Argentine Town

    24 Mac 2019, Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    I am in the town of Tupungato, in Mendoza Province, in western Argentina for my second visit in three years. My purpose was to visit the Sánchez family, whose criollo horsemanship was evident in the prior blog. I also wanted to enjoy small-town life in my usual fashion of walking around, meeting people and talking, and of course studying.

    During my stay, I also visited the city of Mendoza, the capital of the province. The city center has such densely-shaded streets that I thought I was in another small town. Bad luck for all of you that I’m not a wine connoisseur, as this province is the Wine Capital of Argentina, and many of the best Argentine wines are produced from grapes grown in the region.

    As a matter of fact, the two sons of Carlos Sánchez live on the grounds of a medium-size vineyard/vacation home/criollo horse-training center, where all three of them work full-time. Taking care of seventy horses is heavy work, and they are currently looking for another helper. But the aspect is stunning, with the Andes in the west—a splendid backdrop for the vineyards, and indeed for Tupungato itself.

    Joining an extended family is usually not an easy task for me, or for many travelers, for that matter. As this was my second visit, I was warmly welcomed, treated to many maté-drinking sessions, and invited to a few large family gatherings. Indeed, the contrast between the ease of making friends with families here in Argentina and the challenges I face in doing the same in Thailand are the topic of my Week 10 video for my Add1Challenge. And yes—I am still studying Thai with enthusiastic energy! Here is the link to the “family video,” under three minutes, and with subtitles:
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjg_HYcFH5E

    And here are some photos and one video, which I hope you enjoy. Please sign your first name if you leave a comment.
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  • First, Argentina: Criollo Horses!

    7 Mac 2019, Argentina ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    After about two and a half years, I returned to Argentina—a prelude to my trip Chile—to see my friend Carlos Sanchez ride competitively for the last time in the national semifinals of criollo horsemanship. He has won endless competitions on the local and national level in Argentina; now, because of the age limit imposed by the Association of Breeders of Criollo Horses, this was his swan song. I joined his wife, Rosa, son, Hugo, daughter, Blanca, and son-in-law, Simon, in the small town of Jesús María, an hour north of Córdoba in the center of the country.

    The competition was a four-day affair, with four main events: morphology (judging each horse’s conformation) two events of set movements, and one two-part event called “corral de aparte.” I am more a fan of the horses than of the events. This breed is exquisitely agile, as you will see from the videos I have included in the photo section, and of great beauty, intelligence and endurance. I got to watch them every day for hours and hours: a horse-lover’s heaven.

    I did take some time to revisit one of the Jesuit estancias, ranches which supported the Jesuits’ ever-amazing teaching and settling efforts. A block of these estancias and the churches connected with them make up a UNESCO World Heritage Site. For more information, click on this link: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jesuit_Block_an…

    And then, I was back with Argentines! In Jesús María I rediscovered the charm, the articulateness, the conversational abilities and—let me say it again, the CHARM of these people. When I opened my mouth, my strange accent in Spanish was apparent—a rewardingly excellent conversation-starter. I had many interesting encounters as a result. So nice to be back!

    Please enjoy the pictures. If you leave a comment, please sign your first name, so I know who you are!
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  • Goodbye to Chiang Mai--for now

    22 Februari 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I am leaving Chiang Mai, “the Rose of the North,” after a stay of four months and two weeks—the fifth month being my journey around the country from mid-January to mid-February. I am sad to leave. Oh, I know, the air is frightfully polluted, the country is in extreme difficulties, there is huge disparity in the wealth of the populace, and trouble abounds. I will always be a “farang,” a white foreigner. And Thai is a difficult language for all of us who try to learn.

    BUT IT IS SUCH A PLEASANT PLACE TO LIVE! I may be a farang with terrible Thai, but when I said goodbye to my Thai friends this week, they were genuinely sad, and so was I. In fact, when I said goodbye to everyone, they were ALL sad, and so was I. I shall come back in the “cold season,” next November, December and January. I shall study in Chiang Mai, spend the Loy Grathon Festival in Sukhothai, and go exploring around the country again. And maybe I’ll arrive earlier and stay later.

    There is just something about this country.... It reaches a part of me that needs the warmth—and yes, the detachment too. It gives me a fabulous puzzle of a language of the heart, of “jai, ใจ,” with a script to match: beautiful, intricate, full of hidden meanings, accessible until it suddenly isn’t. And when I am left stranded by meaning and understanding, here comes a Thai person who says, “But you WILL be back in November, won’t you? Won’t you?”

    I will.

    Here are some end-of-journey photos:
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  • Going Backwards in Time: Sukhothai

    11 Februari 2019, Thailand ⋅ 🌫 32 °C

    I loved Sukhothai. My stay was only five days long, but I liked it so much I promised everyone that I’d return for the lovely Loy Grathom Festival in mid-November. Why did I like this city? Because it was small (37,000 people) compact, had fairly clean air, and was extremely friendly. My Airbnb property was a giant room that was very dark, cool and restful at night, and liveable outside in the patio by day. My hosts lived about three blocks away, and I hung out with them most evenings. A very sweet couple. There was no wifi or kitchen in my place—somehow I’d overlooked that—but my “in” with the neighborhood overruled such inconveniences.

    Of course, Sukhothai’s real draw is it’s ruins: it was the first capital of Siam, in the 13th and 14th centuries. To reach them you have to get on a little shuttle bus for a 12-kilometer ride. The grounds are massive, and I confess that I only made the trip there one day, where I saw the National Museum and one enormous temple. I found that I’m not so fond of seeing temples in 96-degree weather (see the last post) and I’m very sorry to confess that I’m not a great fan of ruins. Historical fiction will do the trick for me if it’s good. But don’t pay any attention to me. Here’s a wonderful write-up about Sukhothai from the UNESCO site:
    https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/574

    What I really liked was hanging out in the neighborhood—without the company of French, Dutch, German, Chinese, Spanish, Latin American and American tourists. Just me, alone with my 5-month-old Thai, having an excellent time with all I talked to. I went to a beauty parlor for the first pedicure of my life, and ended up getting my hair washed, blow-dried and trimmed as well, because the atmosphere was so chatty and fun. Two cousins of my host ran a “som dtam” stand—a kind of spicy papaya salad—and I became addicted to the salad AND the sisters who made it every evening. I also went to a “breakfast street-food buffet” at the urging of a very nice woman who sat on a table the rest of the day preparing vegetables. Her English was excellent. At breakfast, there were ten separate large containers of food to choose from, plus rice, and to my great surprise, each dish was more delicious than the other! How did she do it?

    Anyway, even in only five days, I felt that I “lived” in Sukhothai, and that is my overall goal of my international adventure as well.

    Please enjoy the photos and “skill” video.
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  • A Part of My Heart Stays in Ayutthaya

    1 Februari 2019, Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Ayutthaya is located in the Central Plains of Thailand, eighty miles north of Bangkok. It is a two-in-one place: a historic city (UNESCO World Heritage Center) preserving what was the capital of Thailand from 1350-1767, and a modern city. I tried to enjoy both cities in the week I spent there.

    The historic city is truly breathtaking. Although I am not fond of tromping around ruins in glaring 96-degree F (35.5 C) heat, they are so impressive and beautiful that I was immediately smitten. I went to the National Museum of Ayutthaya first, to see the treasures which were recovered, and then to a few large portions of the historic park. The UNESCO site has a wonderful description, if you’re interested. Here’s the link: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/576

    My Ayutthaya Airbnb property deserves a bravo. I lived in a room of a very small house in the back of a restaurant. Tom and Nick, the proprietors, were both excellent cooks and highly-interesting people. Tom, a Russian/Canadian, has a degree in East Asian Studies from Moscow University, and speaks Thai at the highest level. He and I had some very interesting conversations about the ancient capital, and the Thai language, people and customs, Nick loves cooking, and studies constantly. They are comfortably middle-aged. I ate all of my meals there (breakfast and dinner) because they cooked exactly what I wanted, with no additives, little meat, great flavors, and much imagination.

    Otherwise, I spent my days first visiting a “notable site,” then studying Thai like a maniac in welcoming air conditioned places (as I’m in another Add1Challenge) and chatting in the evenings with guests at the restaurant. Before the Burmese conquered Ayutthaya in 1767, many foreign traders came to live in the city, who were numerous enough to have their own villages. I made a special pilgrimage to the remains of the Japanese and Portuguese settlements in their honor. All in all, a wonderful week.

    Enjoy the photos!
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  • Visiting Bangkok "Dorée Style"

    29 Januari 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I am so busy LIVING in each place I visit, that sometimes I forget what a driven traveler I used to be—how seeing as many important places as possible was. Now I am so much more relaxed. I did have two purposes in visiting Bangkok, though: 1) to see the locations of two celebrated works of Thai fiction I read (translated into English, of course) and 2) to practice my Thai in the heart of the “Central Dialect,” chosen to be standard Thai for the entire country. (There are four main dialects in the country.)

    The first novel which inspired me, “Letters from Bangkok,” by Botan (a woman) told the story of a Chinese immigrant to Thailand in the years 1900-1965, through his letters home to his mother in China. It tells how the Chinese learned to be the worker bees in their new country, married Thais, and assimilated. I’m sure the exact same story might be only slightly updated to be true today. Botan, pen name of Suba Sirisingh, is still alive today, writing, and has published more than sixty novels!

    So my first pilgrimage was to the Chinatown described in her book, a crowded, messy, stubbornly-not-to-be-gentrified part of central Bangkok. I was so overwhelmed by the busyness, the crowded narrow streets and the endless food stands, that I took not a single picture. Just go there!

    The second work was an amazing novel called “Four Reigns,” by Kukrit Pramoj. It takes its heroine through four kings of Thailand, up to the modern era, describing her life first in the Royal Court, and then in a nearby Bangkok neighborhood. Mr. Pramoj was also a politician, journalist, actor, and polymath regarding traditional Thai arts. So, I had to visit his house, which has been made a special landmark in Bangkok. It consists of five separate wooden buildings in Thai style, and are beautifully laid out. To my great surprise and intense pleasure, his younger brother actually emerged from a room, and we had a very nice conversation. He is very old indeed, but spoke perfect American English, his first language. He told me about his brother’s contact with a relative who worked in the Royal Palace, and how he was able to extricate many details of court life from her. For more information about Kukrit Pramoj, read here: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kukrit_Pramoj

    Another excursion was to see the Museum of the Royal Barges. These elegant long-tail boats are being readied for the coronation of the new King of Thailand some time in February? March? No one seems to know. The restorers were hard at work, and I interviewed one of them. She unfortunately had great difficulty in understanding my Thai (my teacher later explained why it was unintelligible to her) but I persevered anyway. Here is a link to this 2-minute video:
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ka5gZ0rUQQI&t…

    I also met up with Kittichai (in charge of technical support for my Add1Challenge) and his lovely girlfriend for dinner at Terminal 21, a huge shopping mall near the Skytrain station of Siam. We ate sukiyaki, and they generously allowed me to stumble around in Thai for a few hours.

    Otherwise, I just walked around and had a good look at the city—sabai-sabai—so relaxed!
    Enjoy the photos...
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  • Bangkok with a New Attitude

    19 Januari 2019, Thailand ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Bangkok! When I visited in April 2017, I disliked this city intensely, but these past two weeks have been wonderful! Such a change took place in my attitude because of my location in the Dusit District—a laid-back, luxurious, friendly, open, and welcoming place. I didn’t really see the “luxurious,” knowing that the stately homes were behind those high gates and walls. But the streets! If you pinch out the map, and examine the main road in front of the tiny lane where my apartment was located, imagine it thick with food stalls, chatty and genial people managing them, dogs, cats, and absolutely delicious smells in the air. It goes on for a kilometer—almost to the Chao Praya River, where my Express Ferry stopped at the Payap Pier. This was my stomping ground.

    My Airbnb apartment was huge and comfortable. Here is a link for a “tour” in Thai with English subtitles!

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qoP0FE-JCOc

    In the photo section is a video of my fruit seller in action with a very sharp knife—I was so fearful she’d cut off her fingers, and we’d have to collect them from the sidewalk! Anyway, please see the photos and captions for more information about lovely “Khet Dusit.” My Bangkok excursions will be in the next footprint.
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  • Nong Khai: Bliss on the Mekong

    15 Januari 2019, Thailand ⋅ 🌫 23 °C

    What a surprise of a lovely town is Nong Khai! I stayed a total of six days, and enjoyed myself enormously in the Isãn northeast of Thailand. Pinch in the map to see where it is in the country. The Mekong River is its charm and delight. I found a guest house practically on the river promenade, so I could walk every day, admiring the flow and expanse, and lovely Laos on the opposite bank.

    A story for you. Saturday, January 12th was Children’s Day. I spent the morning at the Nong Khai Aquarium, admiring the variety of Mekong River fish in the large tank. A program was going on outside for children, with two ladyboys as MC’s. Interesting. So when I got back to the center of Nong Khai I went to another program at the City Hall, which featured dance troupes, prizes, gags and food—all for kids. This is where my story begins.

    Next to me at the program was a nine-year-old boy. He held a balloon between his knees, and was slurping a sticky red ice concoction as he watched the program. He dutifully got up to throw away his trash, get a drink of water, and play with his balloon before returning to his seat. As he sat down, his balloon escaped. It went bouncing down the aisle, and was caught by a little girl who looked to be three years old. She was surprised and delighted. The boy’s mother quickly said to him, “You’ll let her have it, won’t you.” He quickly nodded. Then I watched him. His face turned red, his ears turned red, and his eyes filled with tears. He pulled a Buddhist amulet on a chain from under his shirt, and clasped it between his hands. His hands were shaking. He mouthed a prayer, and though his tears did not spill out of his eyes, his hands shook more. I looked away, and the program ended. He and his mother disappeared in the crowd. I myself wept as I walked home.

    Another event. In this new town, I lost my impetus to talk to strangers. Everyone was warm and friendly to me, but I lost it. After cramming in vocabulary review for a few hours in a coffee shop, I felt very blue indeed. I decided to go visit the woman who had washed and blow-dried my hair two days before; she seemed friendly, and a beauty parlor is a sociable place. When I entered, she was there alone, and was happy to see me. She told me that her boyfriend, a barber living 250 miles away, was on his way for a five-day visit, and wouldn’t it be nice if we could go out for “shabu-shabu” together. (It’s a Japanese hot-pot, international it seems..) Of course I agreed, and at 5 PM met them and we drove along the Mekong to a bustling restaurant. It was my first experience in Thailand being only with Thais in a social setting! Although my listening comprehension is awful for “real Thai,” Nai and Dom were persistant in getting their meanings across to me. We ate and ate. So much fun, so friendly. My good spirits returned, and have buoyed me ever since.

    And so I lived happily until leaving for Bangkok, my next story. More about Nong Khai is revealed in the photos, though...
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  • Thai on the Road--begins in Laos??

    9 Januari 2019, Laos ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    I am now on the road again! My first stop, after a 12-hour night bus journey, was Vientiane, the capital of Laos. I went there specifically to visit the Thai Consulate to apply for and receive a two-MONTH tourist visa for Thailand, which will take me to the end of my stay here.

    I booked a nice Airbnb apartment far enough from the Consulate to give me opportunities to walk a great deal. After I submitted my visa application and passport (to be collected, along with the visa, the following day) I had a delicious fish soup for lunch, and then walked down to the Mekong River to have a look. If you too have lived through the Viet Nam War, “Mekong” will bring back difficult memories. But here it is a broad and lovely river, ready to create new and positive thoughts. After the long bus ride, the tension of getting my visa process started, and landing in a new country, I began to feel a bit low—“I don’t speak Lao,” I whined to myself.

    The following day, I started out afresh, and walked about two and a half miles to the Vientiane Textile Museum. During my walk I talked with many people, because I discovered that mostly everyone spoke Thai! Not only are the languages similar, but being only a few miles from the border encourages Vientiane citizens to learn. I felt ever so much better, having conversations. The Textile Museum is a family compound, and all the buildings were in the old Lao style of about 100 years ago. It is a beautiful place, showing the process of collecting the raw cotton, silk, hemp, bamboo, reeds, etc., spinning and dyeing it, and finally weaving fabrics on various hand looms. Note: the silkworms are NOT boiled alive. They are allowed to hatch and fly away as moths.

    After a long and relaxing visit, I went and collected the visa—a joyous event—and had a scrumptious Vietnamese lunch of phô, and a slow walk back to my apartment. A very pleasant stay indeed—and I shall certainly get back to Laos one day for a proper exploration.
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