Cape Chignecto Provincial Park Kayaking

Three amazing days paddling off Cape Chignecto Provincial Park. It had been about 15 years since Sheryl and I had taken a week long kayaking trip in Alaska in Prince Williams Sound. We paddled along the rocky coast decorated with pillars of igneous rock and wind-swept sandstone cliffs. We poked into caves, snuck under waterfalls and maneuvered around the seemingly random set of rocks sticking out - a little like Haystack Rock but skinnier. Mr Sunny was out for a good portion of the time but we also paddled in thick fog, light rain, and strong breezes. The trip was organized to capture just the right tides at the right times so we would be able to land somewhat close to the high tide for beach camping at the end of the day and launch at to catch the right currents and wind around the point of the peninsula without getting tossed around (too much). We were in doubles which are very, very stable. You would have to work hard to tip it.

It always takes longer than you think to sort the stuff for the dry bags, gather the equipment, “suit up” and launch. It is always shocking how much you can get in a double kayak too. We were each given two medium and one small dry bags for our clothes, toiletries, sleeping bag, and miscellaneous. On top of that we had tents, food coolers, water bags and filter, cook stoves, and tent, kayak and people first aid kits. Each boat has an extra paddle, bilge pump, tow rope plus our spray skirts, PFDs, paddles and hats. Yeesh. We were lumbering around out there with lots of ballast.

Sheryl and I were joined by Rachel and her partner Dave from Seattle, Hedy, Patrick and their 19 year old daughter Ariel from Toronto, and James, our 21 year old guide from London. He has been paddling these shores for 5 years and longer exploring the area from his grandparents’ summer home nearby as a younger lad. We had a blast connecting with these folks. Dave and Sheryl had a banter going - he teaches middle schoolers so has an adventurous spirit. Lots of laughing and goofing around after a day of paddling. Rachel is also a teacher for youth who need to learn English as a second language. They had lived in Portland for a while in the early nineties back when Portland was more of a backwater. (Sorry my Portland friends, but it is true.)

Hedy Ginzburg is a pediatric doctor. Her husband, Patrick is a pathologist. Ariel is in school. They were all bright and fun. Ariel was a bit strange. It was hard to put my finger on why until late in the second day when she got her long hair caught in the zipper of her tent - for the second time. Hedy had been insisting that Ariel place her tent closer to their tent. I thought that was rather controlling and silly since there were only a few flat spots along the beach to pitch tents and none right close to the other. Now I know why. Patrick and Ariel paddled their doluble kayak and kept up a non-stop chatter laughing and singing and enjoying each other’s company. That was delightful to see but also kind of annoying as we sailed by some of the majestic and magical rock formations.

We didn’t see any other kayakers out along this 23 km stretch of shoreline. I’m not quite sure why because it was stunning. Around every corner was another breathtaking view. In places the cliffs had stripes of different kinds of rocks formed by different earth forces. It made for some dramatic scenery. Sheryl and I are a great paddling team. I sit up front and set the pace. Sheryl steers. We both like it that way. It means we can concentrate on taking in the beauty of the place.

Other than getting my feet wet getting in and out of the boat, kayaking was pretty dry. I discovered the usefulness of those Lands End long-sleeve swimming shirts. They dry instantly and kept my skin from frying in the sun and getting chilly in the fog. I had to stick my gloved hands in the water from time to time to cool off some. My big floppy hat kept me from getting burned too. Out of the boat I was brave enough to take a dip in the cold river on day two.

The last night got wicked windy and it rained overnight and sporadically in the morning before we headed out. It was fun. I got out to the river to wash up before anyone woke up - I love that part of camping. It is a little bit of naked outside and quiet time. Just as I finished, the rain started up. I crawled back in the tent until it blew over when everyone appeared for our coffee and breakfast. Another shower just as we finished our meal had everyone scrambling back to put all their stuff in the dry bags for stuffing in the kayaks.

I was so happy. I love kayaking and since Sheryl and I had taken lessons again just this last March, our paddling technique and understanding of the water had proven to make the trip so much better.

Next we go to the other side of Nova Scotia (again) to paddle on our own.Read more