• Jim McCartney

Portuguese Camino 2019

Porto to Santiago de Compostela and on to Finnistre Baca selengkapnya
  • My 4 beds for the night and ....

    22 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Well stayed dry and a nice walk today tried to stay by coast meant walked a long way without seeing anyone ... Had KK with me for a while .lots of walking by roadside but time in beautiful eucalyptus forests too the smell was wonderful . Got within 3 minutes of here when phone died and had to have. Beer to charge from power pack again .... Room very comfortable but feels a bit sterile tbh ...Anyway this walker going for a swim!!!!Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 9

    23 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Slept really well last night well why wouldn't I in my en suite room ect .Though it felt quite isolated so won't be sorry to get back on the road this morning after breakfast. Vigo is a big city and had a different vibe to other towns I visited being Sunday night the place was buzzing ...I had short dander a bite to eat and back and had intended relaxing in my room . Maybe having another wee swim.and even a nightcap but no went in lay down put my phone on.charge and fell fast asleep and have just woke up . Another pleasant walk promised today if the weather holds up so maybe time to explore on route .Baca selengkapnya

  • Arrived Albergue Santiago de Vilavella

    23 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today started off really well and continued in the same vein . After an excellent night's sleep and a fabulous cooked breakfast shared with two lovely ladies from Letterkenny on an organised Camino.

    I set off about 9 and after a very pleasant walked arrived at this Albergue to be greeted by my French family I’ve encountered every few days since sharing the first hostel . Today was the first day I didn’t see one official Camino sign until I arrived at my hostel suppose because I continue to try hug and the coast.Today despite being able to see the sea I wasn’t having much luck getting close The route I found was on a roadside which bordered an industrial area and then the sea . I eventually had enough of the traffic and at a nice looking park appeared in my left which seen to drop down towards the sea. I headed down through but what I hadn't realised was that between me and the sea was a train line so having resigned myself to having the long trek back up hill to the busy road I had one last look around a corner and spied a railway bridge with a road underneath.Off I go only to find myself approaching a site with large industrial site bedecked with many signs so this didn’t appear to give much hope of simple access to the sea. So cutting my losses I turned back up the hill while asking google maps for a resolution. Which it appeared to do without taking me right back up at this juncture I met two fellow walkers who I take were a couple heading down the hill .He asked me if there was a way out I think they may have been kiwi or maybe American any way I said I didn’t think so but hadn’t walked as far as was possible to see . She seemed adamant about carrying on and showed me the road she wanted to get on I told her that was the train track ... At this stage a row between them seemed to be brewing . He said he didn’t see the point of going on ..at this point I just smiled and said to her I don’t think your convinced and wished them a Buen Camino and headed back up the hill and right enough just under the road bridge there was a road off to the left which appeared to go towards the coast. I did consider waiting on the couple to show them it but after a few minutes pondering I decided to go on and really enjoyed a nice walk if not exactly shoreside skirting it through some nice villages . After finding my Albergue which is ok a bit like Esponade in 4bed cubicle although without the curtains . I headed out to get something from the shops and on my back back encountered the couple who were all smiles they had returned right back to the main road and had an okay walk they said . The girl told me the problem was what she thought was a road was a railway line .... Rather ungraciously I told her I had told her that , on reflection she maybe didn’t understand my accent but she was determined to find out for herself anyway and I respect that ,!

    While I was sitting here in the kitchen the bloke on check in was showing two women around as he did for me ...He started to show them where things were in the kitchen when one of them muttered something which appeared to make it clear she didn't have time for this crap take me to my bed ! Right what’s the odds when I go back this Camino Angel is in my cubicle !!! I was wrong still alone in my cell .
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  • All Change

    23 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Redondela is where the Central and Coastal Portuguese Camino meet and continue on the same route through Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis and Padron into Santiago so it's going to be a lot busier and not as much scope for my little meanders. This town has a feel of the French Route with lots of infrastructure in place for walkers. The hostel I'm staying in tonight is right on the Camino with walkers going right past the door.It is very new bright and clean if a bit characterless .... we are in curtained cubicles with 2 sets of bunks I'm sharing so far with Hugo a Portuguese cyclist his English is good it should be he went to Cambridge Uni ...He kindly offered to translate for me if I have any issues as he speaks Spanish too

    I had a nice sleep after I arrived so I've showered and was thinking of heading out to explore but to be perfectly honest I'm quite enjoying just chilling in the hostel kitchen watching the new arrivals although I did notice an Irish bar just down the street selling Guineas for 4.50€ so who knows .
    NB I did have a couple of really nice pints of Guinness that night and the lovely barmaid kept bringing little tapas one was even cheese and ham on Bread with BROWN sauce
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  • The Kitchen

    23 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I mentioned earlier meeting the French family I have met quite a few times over past 10 days . They were in the hostel I stayed at after my first days walk when I shared a room with the Canadians and got friendly with the Australian couple .Well they arrived slightly late and kept themselves to themselves but when they were going to go out that evening the lady was asking how to get back in so I took her to where the code was and went down stairs to the door and we checked it worked ok she was very appreciative . Well tonight when I was sitting in the kitchen here they were cooking and she came and asked if I would like to join them don't ask me why but I politely declined ... I can be a dick sometimes! but when they had finished I seen her put something in the fridge and she give me a big smile . She had put the remains of a chirzo stew in the fridge with a note for whoever would like it to take it . I spoke to her and asked okay if I take it after all and she was only to pleased ..easily the most tasty food I've had since I left home ... They say the Camino provides it did for me tonight ... I even got to say " merci beaucoup " in my school boy french !!!Baca selengkapnya

  • A Lovely Day

    23 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I had a nice walk this morning with a little adventure thrown in . Arrived at a nice Hostel today and spent s relaxing afternoon dozing and catching up with some new friends . I was then invited to sup with my French guys which after a bit of awkwardness on my behalf ended up in having a lovely home cooked stew ! I went for a walk tonight and met both Hans and Peter from during the week and rounded off a lovely evening with a couple of cold pints of Guinness and copious tapas .Even had one which consisted of bread cheese sausage meat topped with brown sauce ! Think I'll sleep okay tonight .Last night was a treat but you know what tonight is what it is all about ! Just chilling in Kitchen before heading to bed .Night everyone X Just told rain forecast for tomorrow agh well !Baca selengkapnya

  • Day 10

    24 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Good Morning . Reasonable night sleep everyone very respectful however my bed being near toilets meant automatic lights low level and dimmed as they were coming on frequently from around 5 roused me early . Great Shower the guy told me to use the disabled shower which was really first class . Breakfast served here from 6am ... Coffee toast for 2€ was lovely my request for the heel to be toasted caused some interest! After some initial reservations I came to really like this a lbergue bring very new a lot of thought has gone into it and as with everywhere I've stayed the hygiene and cleanliness has been first class

    Not sure whether to head off soon or hold back as it is currently raining but we will see. If it continues Poncho on from start and onwards ...days flying by now I had it in my head I reached Santiago on Thursday but I see now it's not actually until Friday .

    The weather forecast is not great for the next couple of days so I have decided to stay on my original route as planned and not follow the Variante Espirtual from here as I had considered with 2 days extra walking but entering SDC by boat a voyage of 30k that is supposed to replicate the route taken when the bones of St James were taken to Santiago in the first Century after his martyrdom by the Romans . Well maybe I do that next time, the boat that is not martydom !
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  • Today's Walk

    24 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Set off in the rain been told to expect more and lots and lots of hills . Turned out the rain abated after about 1 hour but boy did the hills keep coming all day .hard going but great when got on to the level or even coming down .The Camino was very very busy today can't think of many times when I was on my own with no walkers insight and oh so many signs even if a few were baffling Now Listen I will say this only once .. During the early rain I ended up walking with a group of French men it was good to get going but my failed O level french didn't take me far it felt like I'd landed in a episode of Ello Ello more than once as their English was worse than my French . The hills separated the group so I took the opportunity to step out and walked alone until a very steep hill brought me together with Jürgen an Austrian business man we walked quite a while together an interesting character his first question when I told him I was from Northern Ireland was I Irish or British well that conversation didn't take off I was struggling enough with the bloody hills without that . Anyway I noticed when we got on the flat he was starting to slow up quite markedly I asked was he okay he showed me a picture on his phone of his blistered heel OMG I've never seen anything like it it looked like his heel was hanging off his foot like a broken heel can hang off a shoe . This was 10 days into his trip and he tells me it's been like that since day 3... He said he has kept it clean but ....

    Arrived at the Hostel 30 minutes before check in opened and had a really really good coffee and churros while I waited .I got another lower bunk in the corner and in the next bed is a lively South African Lady who is like a breath of fresh air talking to everyone and the hostel is reflecting her and everyone chatting . Showered and heading out for some shopping after I washed some socks and pants. Just helped a jolly German girl wring out her washed fleece we make a good team . Should be an interesting night
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  • Day 11

    25 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Good Morning !
    I went to bed very early last night 8pm . I realised at 6pm . I hadn't eaten since breakfast so I went to get something to eat .I bought a slice of pizza on my way to Supermarket and I tell you it tasted so good ! This started me I got fritatta, fruit and bread and ended up pop eating too much. At this stage I just came over so tired and decided I must sleep. I slept well but awake from four . it's help your self breakfast so just had coffee cornflakes and little Madeira bun. Only me a German lady and Italian bloke up so I'll wait a while to finish packing before I wake anyone else . This place is the best they've even provided little pack lunches for everyone ! More rain forecast and it's is a little damp right now. 23 K today so I'd like to be on the road before 8. I'm starting to feel a bit weary but I'm sure I'll be okay once I'm on the road .Baca selengkapnya

  • oasis

    25 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    A Welcome break with a few eejits and a surprise thrown in. About an hour from next place to stay and heat building decided to have a coffee a quiet pause and a comfort break .No sooner had I put my bum down when the crazy Spaniards who I encountered earlier arrived and had the place in uproar but all good fun ... Also noticed the waitress bring what appeared to be a chorizo sausage on a skewer in a shallow dish and pour liquid over it and set light . Showing the American lady to slowly turn it. I assume the liquid was some sort of alcohol . it's called Chirizo Al Ferno .Baca selengkapnya

  • Home Sweet Home

    25 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    It's keeps happening after arriving a bit early at my albergue for the night I was waiting outside when I noticed a young man in Camino gear bag walking shoes ect sitting on seat nearby I asked if I was waiting at the right entrance .He said he was waiting too. He moved over and I sat down beside him and we talked and of all the people in all the world .... Leo is a French Social Worker for young people and he and a co-worker are walking the Camino with difficult young person as part of his care plan . Anyway not sure if he got in he didn't have a reservation but I'll find out later. This is albergue but to be honest it's more like a AirB&B landlady has no English but seems lots of rules not used to rules ATM .it's really lovely and seems to be. typical apartment home .Going for shower more about today walk later. This is getting very comfortable so far 2 of the girls I stayed with last night have checked in wondered if I'll need to help with the German girls laundry again lol.

    Met Leo the French Social/ Youth Worker again he didn’t get in my place we have loads of Canadian and German Family groups in, but he got sorted down by the river. Loads of school groups walking on this stage ...bloody kids ,
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  • Todays walk 11

    25 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Set off this morning a little worried I have developed a pain in my upper right leg I think it was the many hills yesterday but as it turned out it was a lovely walk today through forests and latterly grape growing fields with very few hills of note and I seem to walk it off. I read people say that the Camino makes you stronger and you know what my legs and thank god my feet are doing well . Here is some photos including a little route march with the Spanish ArmyBaca selengkapnya

  • Day 12

    26 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    A bit of an interrupted night with the u nderwear clad midnight tumble dryer having to be put in his place by this sleepy dude .Anyway nice shower all.packed weather forecast good and 19k day ready to hit the road and see what delights the day bringsBaca selengkapnya

  • arrived

    26 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A arrived lovely walk this morning took me a while to get into the zone but even enjoyed the hills it was very busy out there felt like a sponsored walk at times but good to see old faces even had a wee coffee with Leo and his young person Jessie .Found the albergue no problem oh I love it when it's actually on the Camino path but door not open check in at 1 so no chance to use the old Irish charm so having a seat by the river watching everyone arrive in town with a coffee and look at it it's large or as far as here goes anywayBaca selengkapnya

  • A little bit of Heaven

    26 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I've been thinking all the places I've stayed have been good and if somewhere had all of each of there USP it would be superb . I think I have just found it and more !!! Fantastic facilities free tea coffee , on the Camino beside restaurant and an Irish bar who sell good galician food and towels and fresh linen and get this they do your laundry for you free fold it and leave for you on your bed .I've even got a bunk bed with no bunk above me lol all this for 16€ ... can't believe it my stuff is in the washing machine already.Baca selengkapnya

  • Last Night before Santiago

    26 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Had a lovely evening tonight dinner and drinks with some of my Camino family . 1 French 1German 1Romanian the South African girl and I. Good company but they are all taking 2 days to Santiago from here and looks like they will party tonight so the old man is off to bed ...mellow. What a great day. Heard some beautiful music from a church building on my way home . I hope the attached video caught itBaca selengkapnya

  • Day 13

    27 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Effectively this is the last day of the Camhino Portugese when all things being equal I should arrive in Santiago de Compostela sometime this afternoon . I'm lying in my bunk with very mixed feelings first of all I know it's not the end for me as I intend to rest for a few days and then complete the 90K walk to Finnistre on the coast. So the challenge goes on and I can't tell you how much I have enjoyed the actual walking everyday the sights and beauty and kindness and grace I have encountered along the way and the real sense of achievement one feels when you arrive at your bed for the night and the great delight little touches bring like getting a bottom bunk near the window or someone bringing you a coffee or a cold drink when you arrive hot and bother or do your laundry !!! but I know I will miss all the people I have shared so much with over the last two weeks , be it just a smile , a conversation as we walk together through wonderful scenery ,a shared meal. a lovely coffee a drink of an evening, a laugh. a dorm and many little domestic dramas along the way and the really strange co-incidences that occured with alarming regularity .Which probably in the real world don't seem any big shake but in the cacoon that is a Camino can really start one to think .

    Anyway no big rush off today although it it quite a long day and I know the paths will be busy I actually know my destination if not my path as I'm staying in the Seminario Mentor where I stayed last year and loved . So it's 5am now the dorm is silent apart from some gentle snoring. So I'll give it a while and head for s shower before the rush but won't set of until I say goodbye to some folk here. Rain forecast for all day today just another adventure I suppose
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  • singklll

    27 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Sorry guys that was supposed to say single figures it was first sign post under 10k but it was raining so hard couldn't get to type any thing at the time .. Little did i know the next 10k were some of the hardest of the entire trip so many hills so many people and driving rain but I got there .Baca selengkapnya

  • The eagle has landed

    27 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    300+ k in 13 days and only 10 minutes late. When planning the trip I reckoned I should make the Cathedral by 2 if I left Padron by 8 but I hadn't allowed for such rain but pushed on and don't think I did too badBaca selengkapnya

  • The Square

    27 September 2019, Spanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    What a lovely way to end the trip so many guys I'd met en route were gathered and all inhibitions were gone . Hugs, laughs and not s few tears were shed. Think emotions were running so high due to a mixture of relief exhaustion and exhilaration and for quite a few it was a deeply religious experience . I have to do it all again in the morning I'm booked in to my alberque but a lot of the guys I got closest too won't arrived until tomorrow morning as they decided to stop today outside Santiago so they could enter the town in the morning when it's quiet and some want to attend a pilgrims mass at 11 . I've promised I'll be there to meet them should be good if I wake up !!! I"m staying at the same place I stayed last year and they remembered me which was cool and even better they've put in a wee lift as I'm on the 3rd FloorBaca selengkapnya