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John Bickerstaff
John Bickerstaff

John Bickerstaff

traveled in 54 countries Read more
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  • John BickerstaffSantander & Picos de EuropaJohn Bickerstaff

    When the rain comes

    June 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Today was all about getting sorted for Liz's arrival - pick up the car, sort out the cottage & get food in. All well & good but it transpired, on closer inspection the closest supermarket with opening hours to suit was in Barcelona - not vastly local. Sunday trading laws here are a little different. Looks like bread & water for tea. Opted against walking to the airport - the 4 miles was walkable but the looming clouds & grim forecast suggested the airport bus would be a better bet. This did mean a massively early arrival. Had some dubious pasta to pass the time & supplement the bread & water diet. Dinky Fiat located & various bumps & scrapes documented. Time to pick up bags from the hotel & head for the cottage. On the way out spotted a Carrefour/petrol station combo - might be open. It was. Unfortunately the only ready meal available another type of dubious pasta. Better than bread & water ... maybe. Village located easily & perfectly on time. Circled round the village - passed a guy twice & we both eventually realised that he was the guy I needed to find. Quick tour & unload of the car. First impressions - very nice & peaceful ... & wet.Read more

  • John BickerstaffSantander & Picos de EuropaJohn Bickerstaff

    Enforced socialisation

    June 2, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    No escape from being sociable, or at least pretending. In a fit of optimism signed up for the day trip in to the Picos & swiftly regretted it afterwards but it'll do me good... Grudgingly particpated in the market activity - speculated that if aliens were amongst us would we be able tell them apart from some the bizarre looking things that were on display in the seafood stalls. For all we know some Spaniard is chowing down on an emissary from Alpha Centauri & he thinks it's a crab. My mind wasn't focussed. The day trip was to take in 2 stops - Potes, a mountain village(ish) & Fuente de, a cable car up into the Picos proper. On the way we went past the village we'd be staying in so that would give me a little navigational help. The road to Potes was windy, bendy overload but very dramatic. On arrival it was already lunch time - not a fast process. Once done, inevitably the tower with a view had closed for the day. Ho hum. Took a walk along the river & mooched around town. Still - should be views in the Picos - assuming the cloud holds off - bit hit & miss (showers & sun in Potes) The cable car sped us upto the snow level (temp going down from 21 to 12) & thankfully some stunning views of the mountains & the alpine pastures. Weird to think of snow in Spain in June. Only time for a little walk around & then back down. Both places deserved longer really - the joys of coach party day trips.Read more

  • John BickerstaffSantander & Picos de EuropaJohn Bickerstaff

    Spanish headaches

    June 1, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌫 16 °C

    There's a reason why Green Spain is green & while the UK is basking in glorious sunshine (for once) Northern Spain seems to be shrouded in a semi-permanent blanket of Mancunuian greyness. Still Monday - Thursday was all about the Spanish. 3 hour blocks of language interspersed with activities designed to integegrate & socialise in equal measure - urgh. When the rain let up that called for an escape to the coastal path - either running or walking depending how quickly escape was called for or how much head clearing was needed - language study promoted some belting headaches (not hangovers!) The bright side was the fruit - breakfast and snack time - cherries & nectarines were heavenly. Day off on Friday was miserably wet - more so. Report writing - get ahead of myself.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    A final dart.

    April 22, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    A nice lazy breakfast for once & then the task of packing both bike & paniers. That sorted a final mooch around Bilbao was called for. As luck would have it the transfer mini-bus was already there - for the first time however they were asking for tickets & a German couple were getting arsey with the driver. They only had 45 mins before their flight left - Germans not being efficient & on time - shocking. Told the driver not to worry - I'd wait for the next one. Queued up for a ticket & I'm sure to spite the Germans he made a point of coming & getting me when it became apparent there was space. Got a glare when I got on - not my fault you didn't leave enough time. Bus to town was waiting as well - all going swimmingly - on the way in examined the map to try & find something new. Unbelievably there was a tram up the nearest hill that offered great views of the city - how had that been missed. Had to be done. No queue, a couple of euros & a superb view - can't say fairer than that. Back down & a little mooch around the old town - bit of a market frenzy - flowers, pets, junk - you name it but not food. Found an ice cream place to tide me over till the airport. The ticket issue raised the issue of whether it might be slightly more difficult getting the bike to the airport so decided to give a little extra - so headed back working on the assumption that the buses wouldn't be as clockwork as before. They were. Oh well get to the airport & get some lunch. Got my ticket for the final transfer & unsurprisingly wasn't asked for it. But boot was too full for the bike - promised he'd be back in 10 mins. No hurry. As it turns out there reaaly wasn't - easyjet had cocked up - 45 min delay. Plenty of time at the airport - nice. Flight full of drunk Leeds guys on a stag do - two almost got arrested at immigration - trying to take his stamp. Then three got chucked of the flight - god knows what for but I can guess. All that delayed it further. Got to do some planning when I get in. Hmmm...Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Summit cheat.

    April 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Early start to get to Bilbao, get checked in & find a stream of the match. Again something of a chilly start & again something of a worry about elements of the journey - the main one being that there seemed no way over the river other than on motorways - so unlike the Spanish. There was a routing but it looked dodgy at best - gravel track for 3 miles. Turned out to be a great little cycle way - of which Vitoria was well blessed - admittedly it did turn to gravel in the last few miles but that compared to some of the horrendously busy roads I've 'enjoyed' over the last week - I'd take any day. May not have said that if I'd had a puncture. It's a while since I've seen so many cyclists & not just because it was Saturday. Has to be said the friendliest havw been around Bilbao - elsewhere I've been studiously ignored. Steady & easy climbing for the next few miles to Barazar Pass - just over 600m. It was a bit of a fraud - Vitoria was at about 500m so not a huge amount of climbing. I like to think of it being banked from the ride to Pamplona - loads of climbing & no descent. All that descent was today - yay. From there it was pretty much downhill all the way to the hotel, who thankfully were ok with me having an early check-in & threw in a free drink. The less said about the footie the better. By the time that was over the restaurant had closed so headed into town for a little explore & hopefully loosen up my knee - the airport bus was dead handy for town. Strictly speaking explore isn't correct having been before but it was good to be off the bike for a while. Wandered & snacks consumed headed back past a workers protest against H&M (noisy) and claimed my free beer.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    A relatively pain free & 'easy' 70 miler

    April 20, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Not sure what troubled more - how my aching limbs would respond to another 70 miles; whether Spanish roads would play ball or whether the alleged relatively limited climb would prove to be decepetive. Decided to get breakfast done & dusted - an early start can't hurt. Busy road out of Pamplona - bit chilly - had to fleece up for a little while, well till the climbing started. For a good while the road seemed to plough through a long valley with mountains either side - keep it that way. A couple of short breaks in pretty little villages with hideous eyesore industrial estates on the outskirts. It was after one of these that there was the only road issue & this time it was google to the rescue. Route that was supposed to carry on stopped at gated services. Referred to phone & found a way round that didn't involve the motorway. Vitoria-Gasteiz was a nice enough place - lots of parkland on the centre & a crocodile (not real) outside the cathedral. Hotel was 4 miles out of town on a industry / retail park so my site seeing would have to be before checking in. Suited me - rest & recuperation...Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Two tripple poppers in a day.

    April 19, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    What could possibly go wrong - an early start, route all sorted to avoid the excessive hilliness of my original plan and the weather was looking spot on. Scooted through San Sebastian without too much trouble, though I almost ended up on a motorway - oh the irony. The plan was to go up the coast to the border and take the main road to Pamplona. Google had suggested a shorter route but that was on motorways - thay should have been the warning but it was not headed. 20 miles in and in theory with only 44 to go, admittedly on a very busy road, and I'm informed bikes are not allowed - I'm assuming it was tunnel issues but if that's the case designate it as a motorway. Two choices - go back & do the orginal route amounting to a total of 110 miles or take a 25 mile detour into France & the Pyrenees - that isn't going to be flat but a total of 90 miles. Unsurprisingly there were some hefty ups - you know it's bad when your ears pop three times before the summit. Having made the decision, the concern was really maintaining supplies - it was going to have to be a little often but that required shop intervention & nothing had been viewed. Thankfully in a liitle village - Elizondo, there was an Eroski - open far more consistently than most. Another detour, another banning order & another tripple popper - an absolute pig. Even after all this there was still 40 or so miles to go. Plodded on & a good chunk of gradual down & flat helped. 15 miles to go & the first glimpse of Pamplona was sweet. As it happens probably the best - not the most inspiring of places. Good job as the hotel was a good 4 miles out of the city in an industrial estate.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Shade hopping

    April 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Had a rude shock on getting down. Text message from LFC saying payment for the semi had failed. Stands to reason since Nationwide cancelled my credit card the first day I was away - great timing. Spent the next half hour trying to fixnd wifi so the booking could be completed. Ended up back at the hostel. Not the end if the world since the tram was in those parts. The Funicular was a bizarre set up - just get on - ticket office closed - pay at the top, and yet you have this fancy big building at the bottom. Picked my spot away from the kids - surprised how quiet it was, considering the beach was packed. The views from the top were, again very good. Decided against returning on the tram and walked back down. The lady on the entrance gate warned me of the journey time - whatever it was would've suited me. Back to the hostel to cool off & found that I'd been joined in the dorm by snorers - nice. Popped out to have a look at the Miramar Palace and gardens - lots of shade which was handy.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    A tale of 2 vistas.

    April 18, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The plan for the day was to take in the two hills at either side of San Sebastian's main bay. Initially to go up on the funicular before it got too busy. However the sun dictated otherwise so Monte Urgull & yet another JC statue. Breakie & then a wander & paddle along Onderrata & Concha beaches. The sea unsurpringly was just a little chilly. There were a range of paths up & decided on the most scenic - less steep. Learn from your mistakes. Where-ever you looked there was a stunning view of the beaches, city or sea. At the top was a free museum which I hoped led to a viewpoint, not that they gave any hint of this. Worth a try. Indeed, tucked away was a small sign suggesting there was a vista up a small winding flight if stairs. Result. On the way down balanced on a wall to get a view of the waves, slipped took a chunk if skin off my foot - which was nice.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    My own back to front Camino

    April 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    From Ondarroa cue all sorts of up & down except now with the constant accompaniment of a fishy smell - Ondarroa was a big fish port and numerous boats came in while I was eating. Wagons were loaded & departed. At every bend or slope fishy water / juice streamed out the back - nice. At Orio I managed to find a cycle trail along the river - for once a useful way mark. All the way from Santander I've been seeing Camino signs though i can't think why - I'm going the wrong way. Anyway this was going the right way but created a dilemma - do I follow to the end & take the dodgy route (but shorter) or do I leave half way, add 3 miles and probably have slightly less climbing but busier road. Gambled on the dodgy - & lost. It was epically steep. Ended up pushing for probably 1 out of tge 3 miles of climbing. Then when finally the final 3 miles down hill to San Sebastian came I hit a pot hole & had a blow out. Not HP. Still with all that, got in at 5.45.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    A very lumpy one.

    April 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Was worried about a late start - as it happens there was someone at reception sorting breakfast - not that I was aware breakie was included (may have been extra) For all that only got away at 8.50 but every little helps. On the plane coming over I saw Mundaka & Guernica and it looked flat as a pancake between the two. It was not. And that kind of summed up the day. Guernica is infamous for being where first tried out his Blitzkreig strategy during the Spanish Civil War, however rather than targetting miltary or industrial areas they tragetted civilians. The Air Raid Musuem based at a factory that wasn't targetted looked an interesting stop but was closed. Pushed on & upwards - 3+ miles of climbing. Then down to the first of numerous ports with attached vast expanses of sandy beach. Quick explore & then on to the next - Ondarroa - likely lunxh break, assuming it had a supermercado. It did & a beach side picnic did the job even though it was a shade under half way.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Coastal treats

    April 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    From the bridge, just the small matter of getting to Saturday's hotel where I was hoping to leave my bike bag. Yet more industrial landacape to admire. Chatted to a French guy on a recumbant - just doesn't look safe to me. The receptionist started out as a jobsworth but either she saw how knackered I was or reason prevailed - he's on a bike - how big can it be? Anyway bike bag dumped - onwards to the coast. Some piggish hills between. They don't believe in hairpins here - just go straight up with slight bends so you can't fully appreciate how cruel they are being. Muchos sweating. Altitude signs are always good - got to be downhill. Wound up in Bermea, a nice harbour that was once the equal of Bilbao. Had a little explore and then onwards to Mundaka. On first sight a pretty coastal resort - beaches, surf, harbour - all good. Found the apartment & cleaned up. Having a kitchen meant less stress about where tk eat provided I could find a shop. Off out for a mooch & shop. Microwave paella wasn't going to be great...Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Crossing by various means

    April 16, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Earlier start than the hosts would've wished but he hid any displeasure he might have been feeling, very well. In fact he couldn't have been more hospitable - that said for all I know he could've been calling me all names under the sun. We muddled through - some very nice honey & fruit muesli. Loaded up & was assured that the weather would pick up. From the start things looked bleak - straight up hill & within a couple of miles roads didn't exist - twice. To top it off - big climb, only to find that the road had been closed for tree felling. All was not well with the world. Found a main road & battled with the traffic until I was taken under the wing of 2 wisened cyclists. They were quite taken with the bulkiness of my task & insisted I follow them tk a better route into Bilbao. And indeed it was - a cycle path that was as flat as a pancake - no mean feat around these parts. Mentioned about the Vizkaia Bridge & they made a detour to make sure I found it. At which point they scooted off happily waving - their work was done. The big deal about this bridge is that you ride a lift upto the top of the towers & see the workings. Oh & get great views of the estuary. Helps that the sun made it's first appearance. Took the bridge across & then walked back along the top - twice.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Coastal cycling with no coast.

    April 15, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    While having paid flights & accomodation all sorted should mean a certain sense of gratitude, having to hang round till 9 for a meeting didn't help my mood. In said meeting being told the feedback form couldn't be emailed didn't help. They got a rather curt level of feedback. Said my farewells & so began a week of lumpy cycling & rather rough & ready Spanish. Getting out of Santander wasn't the easiest nor most picturesque - industrial estates & shipyards aplenty. 18 miles in & I found myself merely at the opposite side of the estuary & pondered whether there was a ferry. Also began to wonder at what point shops would close on a Sunday. Pushed on - bound to come to more urban areas. Except I didn't. Water wasn't the problem - going along the Camino meant frequent water fountains / taps. Just after 1 came upon a very shut looking supermarket which happened not to be at all. Thankful for small mercies, stocked up & pushed. A couple of nice coastal cycle routes offered a little flat. Rain prompted lunch. Experienced a couple of resorts neither of which inspired - both very high rised - Laredo had the nicer beach & a nice old town but the rest was pig ugly. Castro Urdiales didn't have a great beach but seemed a little less over developed but still wasn't great. For all the cycling along the coast there was very little sight of the sea. Not great. That said the way the coast was treated @ the resorts I was glad to be staying in the country. Wasn't so happy when it became apparent the limited dinner options. Host was very hospitable - initial conversation reasonably understood & then he went off on one & I didn't have a clue. Still negotiated breakie from 9 to 8 so that isn't bad.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Scorchio or so it seemed

    April 14, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Woke up to the sound of rain and this wad supposed to be the sunny day of the week. The morning involved a market task - the thought of treking into town to wander round a market didn't really, in the rain - even less so. Chunnered a bit but made the bus journey & participated. Once completed the entire group bar me & the apprentice headed out on coach trip up the coast. I was looking at doing a little more warming up for the main event. Mike was looking at watching the match. It be rude to leave him on his own so arrangements were made & off I went on my bike - bit further down the coast. Sat nav was doing some strange things bit made it to the Liencres Dunes wildlife park. Stunning beaches & an epic downhill to get there - Not good. Had a little mooch about & then found a cycle path down the coast. Maybe I could avoid the hill. As it turns out - no. But a little off road might have done it - not an option. Headed back for some late lunch & then to find the match. Easily done - same place as before & poor Mike ended up trying to keep up with someone who was drinking coke & water. Only one way that was going to end. Thankfully the boss turned up to take care of him & I could scoot off to pack. Got back & did a token bit of socialising & it transpires I'd got burnt - sunny but the wind was lethal.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Back on the bike

    April 13, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Formal lessons done (until next time) things were a little more relaxed. A rather grey run along the beach suggested the weather wasn't going to be upto much. The plan was to take the bike out & check all was well - the rest were off for churos which would have been nice but deep fried donut type stuff wasn't an option. An short losener around town taking in some of the sights and the local stadium. Obligatory club shirt bought, headed back via the supermarket & beachside picnic. Pondered next option - the sun was trying it's best & the forecast suggested rain was very unlikely so decided to explore the local coast to the west. The nearby lighthouse offered a nice coastal walk. From there it was 7 miles to a little cove that was supposedly nice. A couple of miles in a the first drops (sporadically) began to fall. Decided to push - how bad could it get? Another little coastal walk and by the time I got back dark clouds were looming & the spits & spots had become a light drizzle. Time to hurry back & it was a race I was to lose. Not by much though - a mile or so off. Dried up & ensured I missed the Flamenco lessons. Had a really nice fish menu of the day.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Sunshine at last.

    April 12, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Morning run, though not Ipanema, was the closest so far - beachside run with some hint of sunshine ... promising. A late final lesson (11.30) left time for a little relaxing in the sunshine & little walk along the beach. Following another verb frenzy there was the obligatory sociable meal which was tolerated - went for the light options to see if that helped - my stomach rather than my inherent anti-social instincts. Got ripped off & still insisted on leaving a tip - clearly my influence didn't carry any weight. Had a little walk around Magdalena Peninsula - admiring the views & the former royal summer residence.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Spanish & octopus.

    April 11, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    A full day of lessons through till 8 looked like hard work at tge best of times let alone with a hangover. An early start wasn't ideal either. Battled through gamely - verbs & adjectives don't help a headache. Downtime was hindered by torrential rain. Tried translating the local paper's match report but that hurt my brain a bit too much. Eventually honework was set & the day was done. Into town for food except everyone had eaten so just me - had some octopus liberally coated with olive oil & paprika.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    We've conquered all of Europe...

    April 10, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Things started to get a little intense - talk of prepositions, adjectives & sentence structure. That said at least it wasn't the advanced group looking at subjunctive and imperative verbs. Anyway a late start meant a short run was possible - a vain attempt to clear my head. Cause of said roughness was unclear - rich food yesterday, odd eating times, lack of sleep from being woken up numerous times or nerves (big game) who can say but the run didn't help vastly & it rained. While out pondered how to ask for a room change in Spanish. Got back & went for it. Made myself understood, initial response of room number - ✔ & then it went downhill from there. She ended up speaking English. I tried. Not a problem moving rooms. Having a bike in my room - big problem. That sorted off to lessons. As stated - hard work. Opted out of the big lunch option - sarnie, strawberry picnic by the sea option & the sun came out. Back for the methodology session - posh way of saying games, songs and stories you can use to teach Spanish. Then to the main event - bar had been located - went early to bag prime spots. Great football, allbeit epically stressful. Too much beer consumed, got told off for being too rowdy & got free snacks oh & Liverpool beat the champions elect to get into the semi final of the European cup.Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Hassling Spanish strangers

    April 9, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Early start - lessons due to start at 8. Breakie was only due to start at 7.30 so that was 30 mins of face filling - a little torment thrown in for good measure - vast swathes of cakes, donuts & pastries, eggs & bacon etc - all not an option. Basic survival Spanish & pronunciation upto 11. Suprisingly no headache. Off for lunch en-masse. Along the way keeping eyes peeled for candidate bars for match night viewing. On arrival the tutor collored the waiteress & though I don't know I reckon it was along the lines of don't you dare speak English to them...
    Huge 3 course lunch - avoided the wine but the richness of the food was likely to cause a headache. If that didn't being sociable in the treasure hunt was going to do for me. All schools were split up & given clues to find around Santander, a number of which involved speaking to locals. All well and good if you have someone a little more fluent - we did not. Our stronger speakers opted out due to mobility issues... cue some really bad conversational Spanish which relied on their English. Despite this & a colleague being a Manc it was a pleasant walk exploring the town. Needless to say we didn't win. Got soaked on the way back & dived in the bar. Most groups did this some more extensively than others. Opted out of the evening tapas - headache...    Read more

  • John BickerstaffCycling Green SpainJohn Bickerstaff

    Arrival

    April 8, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Delayed flight wasn't great and glimpses of the terrain I'd be traversing later on also didn't help but having been here before it can't be said I wasn't aware. Bike picked up & a few quizical looks from the other students. Onwards to the bus. The look from the bus driver wasn't quizical - slightly less positive. On arrival the chaos of allocating rooms & unpacking - not a big job for me. Briefing followed along with painful get to know you activity - blew it with a few by admitting to eating guinea pig - cruel man. That done - tea and one of the curtest waiters. Hurrying orders, forgetting orders, dropping food on me & not giving me an extra roll - not great for 24€.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017John Bickerstaff

    My kingdom for a plug.

    August 31, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    First priority was some shopping - Liz was not impressed. Sleeping tablets & a case for my phone. Got the tablets but my phone will have to manage. Headed to the area for river cruises. Wanted to do an architecture cruise but the company we opted for did a river and lake cruise for the same price - no choice. Especially since it was going in 5 mins rather than hang around for 35 mins. Set off and our guide who claimed dubiously to look like Sean Connery proceeded to educate us about the buildings of Chicago - some of the bizarre shapes had architectural reasons. Headed out to the lake - bit windy. The windy city after all - though the nickname is down to the early politicians rather than the climate. Got some good views of the city. Every time the guide said he'd leave us for a few mins he thought of something else to tell us about Chicago. Very proud guy. Had a sarnie when back on dry land. Quick detour to the bean and fountains and then back to the hostel. The train back was packed - Tokyo packed. Getting 2 backpacks on was going to be a challenge. Fortunately by the time we were back at the station things were quieter. Good job as they say. Off to O'hare & the quest to find a plug - battery in dire need of charging (5%) & the phone was my main source of entertainment on the plane. Failing that it'll be old school - book & sleeping tabs to Manchester.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017John Bickerstaff

    Millenium arty stuff.

    August 30, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Once back on terra firma we made our way to the Millenium Park. Site of the Cloud Gate or as it is more commonly known the bean - or at least we were calling it that. Just in the entrance however was another piece of 'art' two monolithic stacks of glass bricks with projections of faces on. The sides were fountains and every now and then the faces would purse their lips and a fountain would shoot out. The kids were loving it. It was funny to watch. And cooling to paddle around as well. The big kid wanted to have a go but it would've been just a bit embarrassing. The bean was just as interactive but on a more surreal level. Every photo of it was on some level a selfie and as the official title suggests the sky is an integral part of the reflection. Underneath the distortioned images were quite wild. Again the poses people were incorporating were something else...Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017John Bickerstaff

    Finally got her on a bike.

    August 30, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After a massive sarnie in the park we headed to the nearby bike hire centre. Liz had been convinced / badgered into taking a cycle along the lakeside trail. No cars and allegedly beaches & swimming along the way, not that the swimming was persuasive. Once the bikes were sorted we made our way down to the lake. At the first opportunity I was on the bike - Liz was less sure - cycling wasn't allowed in the Millenium Park & while we weren't actually in the park she maintained it was dodgy. Pah! She got talking to a local as I sped off & he confirmed cycling on the pavement was something you could get a ticket for. Anyway the law didn't get me and we made our way along the lake. Past beaches and swimming areas. Obviously it had to be done & while it felt & looked like a sea there wasn't the salty taste. Very refreshing. Carried on towards Montrose Beach & point - supposedly good views of the city. Once out there it was hard to imagine it was part of the city & that it was on a lake not the seaside. Headed back in a laid back pace but eventually it dawned that the bike rental place would close at some point so ended up having to get a wriggle on. Cycled on the pavement, much to Liz's concern. Got back and they were starting to pack up. Phew. Opted to stay out for tea rather than go back. Thai - always a safe bet.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017John Bickerstaff

    Up in the clouds.

    August 30, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    What with a good forecast today and a more dubious one tomorrow it seemed prudent to try and do the stuff that benefits from clear skies. That meant a trip up the Sears Tower - formerly the tallest building in the world. Warnings of 30 min queues were unfounded though I think I'd preferred that to being stuck in a lift with a pair of toffs - so wanted to punch them. The views as expected were great - apparently 4 states can be seen on a clear day & when you know where to look. The sky ledge was fun - a glass ledge suspending you 103 floors above Chicago. Some of the stunts people were pulling - handstands & all I could muster - sitting down. As you made your way down you passed through 3 different tat shops - it wasn't as if they'd got enough out of you already.Read more

  • John BickerstaffUSA eclipse 2017John Bickerstaff

    Big city culture shock.

    August 29, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    After struggling to locate the baggage reclaim - by the time we'd found it, ours were circling around relatively lonely & unaccompanied. Got the subway to our cunningly hidden hostel - the sign being inside the door on the wall - was getting a little worried. Checked into a rather industrial looking room with distant views of high rise Chicago. Oh boy - this is going to be a world away from Cooke City - we were in a proper city. Unpacked to find for the 2nd time homeland security had been rifling through my bag. The least they could do would be to repack with a bit of care - 2 of my pilfered shower gels had burst. How dare they! Did a bit of reading up on the place & made a plan. Since we were a bit later than anticipated this afternoon was just a get acquainted exercise, oh and get some Chicago deep dish pizza down us - no lunch after all. Gino's was the option to go for by all accounts & pretty filling they are supposed to be. Got in without a queue & were told the wait was about 45 mins - freshly baked ... and you buy starters because of that. Got some beers & handily the starter we would've ordered came with them - happy hour. The pizza eventually rolled up & to be fair it looked a bit puny. Anything but - 1 slice was fine the 2nd was a battle. I was done. Losing it. Needed a substantial walk. Went along the river past Orange Don's OTT ego massaging tower. The Wrigley building though far smaller was far more ornate and striking. Understated yet beautiful. Carried on down to the lakeside via toilets. Ahhh. Midges aside, a very nice walk.Read more

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